Builds 1973 Build - Putting the puzzle together (1 Viewer)

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Before I got much further, I wanted to dig into the wiring. It's a whole lot easier to do before putting all the sheet metal on. I decided to use a full harness from speedway motors. I installed one of these in my '63 Ford and it went great and works perfect so I bought a more stripped down version for this thing.

assm 8 wiring.jpg


I had decided that I wanted to do a few things different on this build though. Two things that bother me in hindsight about the '63 are that the wiring all goes through the grommet in the firewall without a connector, so if I take the body off it'll be a nightmare to remove the wiring first. The second is that it has a lot of old connectors or OE parts like lights and switches. For the 40 I decided to remedy both of those issues by cutting off the whole harness and pinning it into a bulkhead, and also converting every connector on the whole truck to new DT style connectors.

For the Bulkhead I used a Deutsch HDP20 31 pin connector and I mounted it just to the left of the brake booster up high.

bulkhead connector installed.jpg


And for the misc. connectors I used all Deutsch DT style connectors. Here are the tail lights and light switch getting re-pinned.

assm 7 wiring.jpg
 
I also got newer style front marker lights. In case it isn't clear yet this thing is basically a mix of all my favorite year 40 features. Anyway, I got a brand-new headlight setup from....somewhere (can't remember), but its all OE Toyota parts (Koito) and put together really nice. I also blasted and painted all the original Headlight parts and assembled it all.

assm 4 headlights.jpg


And then I had headlights and marker lights

assm 5 headlights.jpg


And hood and windshield frame on...now we're getting somewhere!

assm 6 headlights.jpg
 
One of the major issues with the fiberglass tub is the lack of grounding options...for obvious reasons. I had planned on running a negative lead through a bulkhead to give myself a positive grounding solution in the cab, but decided to go the extra mile and run + and - through bulkheads.

positive bulkhead.jpg

positive bulkhead 2.jpg


That way I dont have to fight with getting enough wire gauge through the HDP20 connector. I ended up running like 6ga wire to the power and the ground. You can also see the HDP20 getting filled out and with the boot installed.

I also decided to ditch the stock steering column and go to an aftermarket tilt column. This was kind of necessary to achieve a seating position for both myself (6'2") and my wife (5'2"). And I started running the wiring to correct locations (ignition switch, light switch, cluster, shifter, etc).

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It's funny, as much as this rig is modified from original form I still have a soft spot for originality. Got myself a reproduction warn hub sticker and just had to get it in the same spot the dealer installed it on the parts truck.

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And Voila...Close enough! Also, I started on the dash switches, that is the wiring for the light switch.

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So by this time the truck started on the key, ran, and yard drove. So I took it outside to make sure it shifted into drive and reverse correctly and the brakes worked already etc etc...probably was about time to clean the shop too. Take note here of how bad the front clip actually fits, aprons are too high (or tub to low), fenders aren't flat, hood overhangs the bib by at least .5"...among other atrocities....

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Back in the shop it went to get the rebuilt and freshly painted roll bar installed. I also fabricated the start of a front bumper, I say start because at the time I wasn't sure how wide I wanted it to be since I didn't have wheels and tires yet so couldn't see the final stance. The bumper is 3/8" plate bolted right to the frame with shackle loops and a 2" x 4" steel tube across the center, I'll run the tube out to the edges angled back and tapered up next.

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I was pretty set on 15" black steel wagon wheels and 33" tires and wasn't sure of the offset, however, I found a set of 5 17" Method 305's with 33's for a great deal on FB market so snagged those for it...I actually like it quite a bit. They need to be stripped and powder coated, but I like the look.

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And believe it or not that's about it to get up to date on the project. I've done a few things the last couple weekends that I'll get some pics of, but we're pretty current now. Obviously there is a ton missing, if you see something I didn't cover feel free to ask and I'll explain or get pics.
 
Looking at your pic , it look like the rear sill is too high , it should be about 1/2 to 3/4" above the rear bumper
This could be why the front clip line up is bad

You acually nailed it, good eye. I'll update my battle with body alignment from this past weekend.
 
Well, that was fun.
Looking forward to more.

Thanks
 

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