Builds 1973 Build - Putting the puzzle together (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Jun 25, 2004
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First off, It feels great to be back on IH8MUD, I joined here many years ago when I was a teenager but haven't logged in in years.

A little backstory on me, then the project...

Here we go...I am currently a 28 year old mechanical engineer, I got my first car when I was 14, a 1980 Fj40, it was free. It had rotted rear corners and some other run-of-the-mill 40 problems but it was pretty damn solid. I put a ton of miles on it just wheeling it in my woods before I had my license. When I was 16 or so I bought 3 more 40's at the same time for $1800, a 71' which I drove home, and a 69' and 72' for parts. I drove the 71' quite a bit to school and around town with friends etc. Probably around age 18 I got another free one, a 74' that had an SBC in it and had a tree fall on the front end and the owner just gave up on it. Around that time i got into cars and fabrication and just moved away from the off-road world with the purchase of a 96' Firebird ws6. I sold all the 40's in a series of package deals over the next few months, what a mistake. Anyway, time went on...I built a 396 stroker nitrous motor for the firebird in my garage which was cool, but I got the desire to build something more from the ground up so I parted it out and started on something new and fresh. When I was 21 I had a '94 Mazda Rx7 stripped out shell shipped from AZ to my house in CT and spent the next 7 years building it. I learned soooo much building this car it's not even funny. I learned to Tig weld, sheetmetal work, building transmissions, suspension fab and geometry, entire turbo system fab, wiring, autobody (built my own paint boot and painted it), EFI tuning...etc etc etc. I literally built every single component in my shop, hell, I even bought/rebuilt a 3-axis CNC knee mill to produce my own billet parts.
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During that seven years I finished my engineering degree and I also built a couple vehicles, and got back towards the 4x4 stuff...
'63 F250 on a 94' F350 chassis with a 12V cummins and ZF5
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And my '51 Willys M38 with SBC350/Muncie 4 speed/ oem t-case
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I still have (and always will) the RX7, the F250, and the M38.

Anyway...I recognized years ago that one of my biggest mistakes was letting the 40's go. Not only has the value gone through the roof on them, I miss driving them. I have been keeping my eyes open for years for something salvageable to build for my girlfriend but alas, most of them are soooo far gone or the owner wants $10k for it.

So, A few weeks ago I was up at my house in VT and was traveling down to northern mass to get a block of wood for another project at a forestry place. On my way back I was taking some back roads through Southern, VT and spotted what I thought was a 40 peeking out from behind a barn out in a sheep pasture. After turning around to double check I notice a lady in the front yard. I stopped in real quick and asked her about it and she said it was her husbands, he wasn't home, and lots of people have stopped and asked about it in the past. I asked if I could take a look and she said no problem. So I parked my car, walked across the street, walked through a cemetery (which was very interestingly located...) and up the 40 out behind the barn. This picture is an approximation of my first look at this truck...
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Yes, you're thinking the same thing I was..."wow, that trucks best days are long gone..."

But, I started looking around and found it actually had a lot of good parts left.
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The doors/windshield frame/hood/fenders/grille/bib/aprons etc are remarkable well preserved...its complete too, minus the rear axle. The original F motor and trans/tcase were actually inside the cab too. After maybe 15 mins of wandering around looking at it I saw a truck pull into the driveway, figured it must be the husband. I walk back over to the house and introduce myself, tell the guy I was admiring the land cruiser. The rest of the conversation went something like this:

Him: "Lots of guys have come and asked me about that truck"
Me: "I'm not surprised, they're rare and you can see it from the road"
Him: "Are you seriously interested?"
Me: "Yes, and I have the means to remove it"
Him: "Lots of guys have wanted it, what makes you the one?"
Me: "Well, it'll be my 6th Fj40 and I think I may be able to save most of it...I've saved worse"
Him: "Okay, its yours"

And with that, this thing became the 3rd free FJ40 I've gotten in my life.

We then spent the next hour or so shooting the s*** about the truck...turns out, he's a Vietnam vet and the truck belonged to one of his buddies from the war. They spent a lot of time out hunting in it and stuff and it was very sentimental to him. His buddy died of cancer 20 years ago, the truck had been in the sheep pasture for about 25 years. Anyway, we made a plan that I'd come back in 3 weeks (labor day weekend) and drag the thing out, shook hands and I was on my way.

Fast forward 3 weeks...My father, two very close family friends, and myself went back to pull the thing out on Saturday morning. It took SIX HOURS! to get it on my trailer. Since It had no rear axle and sat for 25 years the thing was buried. Here's a pick of the trailer hitch/ball after digging down about 8 inches just to find it.
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So we jack it up out of the dirt, set it on wood beams and winched it up on the trailer. I didn't want to destroy anything before I had a chance to see what I had so we had to take it slow.
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Once I got it back to my place in VT and was getting it ready for the longer trip home to CT I realized just how bad the tub/frame were. Someone could maybe save it, if you wanted it to be your life's work or something. I essentially resigned myself at that point to parting it out.

The next morning I was laying on the couch getting ready to head back to CT and was browsing 40 parts on craigslist to get an idea for what people are asking for parts these days (cant believe how the prices have gone up!) and I spotted something interesting: a 74' 40 "project"...I clicked the ad and it had no pictures but described basically a rolling chassis, fiberglass tub, SBC350/TH350/40 T-case, Saginaw P/S, Con-ferr aux gas tank...So I texted the guy and asked if it was still around and if he could send me a pic...a few minutes later I was delighted to receive these pictures:
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So I then did what any sane man would do...I got in my truck and dragged the 72' back home to CT...got home late...woke up early the next morning, grabbed my girlfriend, got in my daily driver and drove from CT to just outside Atlantic City, NJ to look at the '74. It only took me 10 mins to make a deal with the guy.

And just like that, I had attained two seemingly perfect puzzle pieces to this build inside of 24 hours from each other about 600 miles apart. I agreed on a price, and planned to come back down the next weekend with my truck and trailer. I had to wait since I couldn't just drop the 72' off my trailer without some prior planning, you know, the whole "no axle" thing....

Anyway, that brings us to today...I got home from Jersey with the '74 about 3 hours ago. Maybe tomorrow I'll post some more pictures and outline my plans for this build...for now, I feel like I just wrote a damn book. Please forgive any spelling errors, I don't have the energy to go back through this whole post right now ;).
 
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Wow, to bad it took so long to finally get it out of rustland. There are good parts on it, to bad if the frame is bad. Looks like a 1970 ?
 
Subscribed. This looks promising :cool:
 
Wow I hope you got to keep those gangsta wheels, they are the perfect touch for any 40! yeah right. However those other tires look like some original Dunlop RK3 rubber. Very cool project. You seem to be the man that can do it! Right On!
 
Well as a Mechanical Engineer this should present you with no issues at all..... Have fun. This is going to be good to watch. If you decide you don't need the steering wheel, let me know. :)
 
That first picture of that FJ40 in the earth really would be something for an advertisement for some product. Years ago I saw a completely messed up FJ40 that HELLA lights used as a prop for their headlights. I believe they put them in the dug in cruiser and lit them with some slogan. It was really neat.
 
You are a glutton for punishment! :)

That may be true :grinpimp:
Believe it or not that '63 F250 was just as bad or worse when I got it...In a stretch of 5 weeks last summer I did new floors, cab corners, door sills, inner step area, both side door hinge pillars plus the structure behind them, both side front body mounts, and fabricated half the firewall from scratch.

Wow, to bad it took so long to finally get it out of rustland. There are good parts on it, to bad if the frame is bad. Looks like a 1970 ?

The frame could probably be saved, and you are right! I just went and checked the VIN tag and its Oct. 1970.

Wow I hope you got to keep those gangsta wheels, they are the perfect touch for any 40! yeah right. However those other tires look like some original Dunlop RK3 rubber. Very cool project. You seem to be the man that can do it! Right On!

It came with all 4 35's on 20" wheels and 4 steelies with the dry rotted old skinnies...the 20"/35" combos are already up for sale and will recoup most of what I have into this project so far.
 
So here's where I'm at right now:

I got the '70 parts truck unloaded a couple days ago and set in its final resting place:
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I ended up yanking the F engine out of the back of it and dropping it into an M100 trailer i've got for easy storage/moving...not sure what I'll do with it yet.
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And I took a good look at the '72 (I was told its a '74, and the tail lights are the newer style, but the vin is May '72). After taking a close look at the frame, i've got some problems here...

First of all, check out this saginaw install:
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Notice anything funky? like, maybe the fact that someone decided it was a solid idea to cut the end of the frame rail off, weld in a chunk of rectangle tubing to mount the box and SR brackets to and then just weld the end of the frame rail back on...effectively extending the frame like 8". Moving past that issue, how about the atrocity that are the welds on this whole disaster? it looks like a bird crapped on all the seams...I mean, they bolted the box to a bracket and then welded the bracket to the "frame" in such a manner that you cant unbolt the box anymore haha (last picture above). I'm genuinely baffled by the decision making process here!

Move a bit further back what do y'all make of the front twin shock mounts?
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That's some hall of fame redneck hackery eh?

This sort of trend continues moving back to this glorious trans crossmember:

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On the bright side its got a disk brake front axle, which I didn't notice before and is obviously a pleasant surprise!
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Also i'm not very confident the previous builder setup the shackle reversal correctly, I don't know a ton about leaf spring geometry but I'm pretty sure this shackle angle is no good for a resting/loaded state:

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Hopefully someone can enlighten me on that...I would like to not have to completely redo the front suspension.

So now that I've had a chance to assess the situation here's the plan:

1) Clean up the fiberglass tub real well (the tub is in fantastic shape, but dirty).
2) Remove the tub from the frame.
3) Decide what i'm going to do for an engine...I can stay SBC or go to an LS engine (5.3 or 4.8), I've got a ton of experience with LS stuff so going FI with this project is no concern for me.
4) Cut the front of the frame back apart and redo EVERYTHING...I'll have to study up on how others have done the shackle reversal as well as the Saginaw box mounting...I've got a good general idea of how I can push the box further back into the furthest forward cross member to fit everything snug. At this point I'll also consider going back to a standard spring mounting scheme and doing SOA, or keeping it as is. One thing is for sure, the dual shocks are out of here. I'll also fabricate a new transmission crossmember as I'll likely be keeping the automatic trans.
5) Sandblast and POR15 the entire chassis

Once all that is done it'll be ready to come inside the shop for the winter and i'll start putting it together. Almost everything on the parts truck needs some sort of rust repair or general restoration so it'll be a lot of sandblasting and coating, rebuilding electronics, etc. I've got some small work I wanted to do on my M38 once the weather starts turning cold this fall but after that's done I'll start working on the FJ.


One of my general goals here is to see just how cheap I can building this thing for so I'll be keeping a tally of what I've got into it as the project rolls on....As of now the '70 parts truck was free and the '72 with the glass tub was $1300. So if I exclude the cost of diesel fuel moving all this crap then I'm in it $1300 right now...but I've got parts (like the extra wheels and tires) to see that'll cut a lot off that investment.

Anyway, stay tuned! I usually move quite fast on these projects.

EDIT: Oh yeah and someone ( @Downey ) asked me for a picture of the trans to t-case adapter to here's that:
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And also asked me for a pic of the fuel tank:
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The aux. fuel tank sits too high and requires the truck to have a body lift which i'd like to remove...haven't decided how I'm gonna fix that yet.
 
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Throw a couple axles under your ‘70 and you’ll have what I started with in ‘91... and what most rigs look like in these parts.

Good luck, looking forward to watching your build.
 
This is really a heck of a thread. You have 2 FJ40's, both of which have incredible tough issues. A lot of work required no matter what you do. Did you ever think the Cruiser Gods are paying you back for getting rid of the ones you had. They have not abandoned you, but sure are making you work.
 
Ok, if you are really up for this major bitch, here's some input to ponder:
1. P.S. gear box is mounted too far forward, and steering drive shaft has no slip yoke. Frame flexes 3/8" (travel) at the steering in off road terrain, which means present fully welded set-up will tear the guts out of the back of the steering wheel (softest material in that system). I think you should consider re-doing the system, use new steering drive shaft with slip yoke for travel (see ebay #253163272880). While you are looking at that ebay listing pay attention to 6th photo, it shows ideal gear box location. Also while you are at it, check out ebay #261702058064 to clean up that mess.
2. By all means remove the front and rear double shocking. Rear shock on the front end is mounted onto the original bottom shock mounting pin. Look at the hex nut piece at the bottom between both shocks, that is actually the nut that screws onto the original pin, then extends forward to mount the front shock. Merely remove all the lower bolt-on brackets, front shocks, then that hex with a hex wrench- - -now you are back to stock.
3. Remove butt ugly tranny crossmember mount and build ANYTHING that will be better, have higher ground clearance.
4. Now that I see your adapter, all you have to do to run a 700R4 is use Advance Adapters #50-8505 along with your existing adapter, BUT the additional adapter used with your present adapter, plus the additional length of the 700R4 over TH350 will make your rear drive shaft 3.675" shorter- - -can you afford that ???
5. I have real doubts about your tank repair, go for it since you have nothing to loose, but if repair fails, talk to me about my Nylon rear fuel cells, it's tested stronger than steel, and will never rust- - -easy deal.
 
This is really a heck of a thread. You have 2 FJ40's, both of which have incredible tough issues. A lot of work required no matter what you do. Did you ever think the Cruiser Gods are paying you back for getting rid of the ones you had. They have not abandoned you, but sure are making you work.

Yes!, I have no doubt this is punishment for my prior transgressions regarding 40's.
 
Ok, if you are really up for this major bitch, here's some input to ponder:
1. P.S. gear box is mounted too far forward, and steering drive shaft has no slip yoke. Frame flexes 3/8" (travel) at the steering in off road terrain, which means present fully welded set-up will tear the guts out of the back of the steering wheel (softest material in that system). I think you should consider re-doing the system, use new steering drive shaft with slip yoke for travel (see ebay #253163272880). While you are looking at that ebay listing pay attention to 6th photo, it shows ideal gear box location. Also while you are at it, check out ebay #261702058064 to clean up that mess.
2. By all means remove the front and rear double shocking. Rear shock on the front end is mounted onto the original bottom shock mounting pin. Look at the hex nut piece at the bottom between both shocks, that is actually the nut that screws onto the original pin, then extends forward to mount the front shock. Merely remove all the lower bolt-on brackets, front shocks, then that hex with a hex wrench- - -now you are back to stock.
3. Remove butt ugly tranny crossmember mount and build ANYTHING that will be better, have higher ground clearance.
4. Now that I see your adapter, all you have to do to run a 700R4 is use Advance Adapters #50-8505 along with your existing adapter, BUT the additional adapter used with your present adapter, plus the additional length of the 700R4 over TH350 will make your rear drive shaft 3.675" shorter- - -can you afford that ???
5. I have real doubts about your tank repair, go for it since you have nothing to loose, but if repair fails, talk to me about my Nylon rear fuel cells, it's tested stronger than steel, and will never rust- - -easy deal.

1. Yes indeed, the box is clearly 3" or so too far forward. I checked out one of your ebay listings and I like how the crossmember behind it is notched to tuck the box in nice and tight, I'll do something similar. My only issue right now is that I really don't know how I am going to remove the box in order to cut the mount off the frame and move it (without cutting the SR brackets off). The PO really made this difficult with the way its mounted.

2. The double shocks are leaving, thats a foregone conclusion...Thanks for the details on the mounting though!

3. Nothing to add here, I'll fabricate a nice rectangular tube member.

4. Not sure I can give up the 3.675" unless I move the engine forward...I'll likely stick with the TH350 for now to simplify things.

5. Yeah, I took a closer look at the tank and I'm not sure I feel like getting into that but I'll have to remove it and really inspect closely.


I believe I have decided to switch over to a 5.3 LM7 engine and go EFI, I've just got too much experience swapping LS engines and too many parts already around my shop not to go that route. I'll probably track one down in the next couple weeks.

Also, I'm hopefully going to move the box and get the front of the frame rails sorted out this weekend.
 
To remove the steering box you can try to unsrew the lower bolts with locking pliers,
The box will be push away as you unsrew it

Or simply cut out the cast box mounting plate, you need to change the location anyway, and you should use a new plate to mount the box
 
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To remove the steering box you can try to unsrew the lower bolts with locking pliers,
The box will be push away as you unsrew it

Or simply cut out the cast box mounting plate, you need to change the location anyway, and you should use a new plate to mount the box

That's what I'm going to try first, hopefully I can break them loose with vise grips.

I'm going to fabricate a new plate, but it wont be easy to cut the old one off without removing the box first.

Consider the possibility to turn the SR 180 degree for a better approach angle
If you do that you also need to turn the springs pack 180 to keep the same axle location

More info on this? What do you mean flip the SR 180? Do you just mean turn the brackets around?
 

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