The fuel filter is still available from Mr T for like 10 bucks but it has a metal bowl. That clear fuel line can be replaced. I just did it on my build. I'll find the link.
1970 “it’s all there, I swear” project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter acy76
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My hose was pretty shot so when I replaced my fuel pump with a new one from City Racer I used the barbed input it came with rather than threading the hose into it. Simple filter off Amazon
PNW 67 Patina Blue
Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?
forum.ih8mud.com
acy76
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- #25
Fantastic, thanks for this.
PNW 67 Patina Blue
Here are the hold down clamps I picked up. The third one on the right is obviously not correct but that's ok, I only need 2. Anyone recognize this? Could this be a hold down clamp for the later hard lines?
How did you get that clear line fitting apart? I beat it up last night a bit but no luck.
Mine came with the fuel pump. I dont know the part number (maybe Toyota 90404-51244 or 90404-51266) but Im sure a lot of the good part vendors could get it for you new or used.
Or McMaster Carr has pipe to barbed fittings... I think the pipe tapped stuff was BSPT instead of NPT if you go that route.
Some pics here: PNW 67 Patina Blue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pnw-67-patina-blue.1289865/page-4#post-14699232
I just got a new fuel tank and will be pulling apart the other end of the fitting. I'll take some better pics this time.
acy76
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Makes sense. I couldn't tell if that sleeve was just a snap ring or what, I could only faintly make out the split from the end-on angle of view in my vise. I will try and dig it out of there with some tiny drill bits or something.
Build looks great, incidentally. I will have to read through it all later.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
The nipple is found at SOR-last item on page. I would go to Amazon and buy a barbed 5/16 SS or Brass fitting. @ToyotaMatt also has the olive fittings in which you can use a piece of cut hard fuel line and screw it in using your adapters to the filter/fuel pump.
FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 Land Cruiser Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines - https://www.sor.com/cat028.sor
FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 Land Cruiser Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines - https://www.sor.com/cat028.sor
@65swb45 probably has them too if you give him a call.
Here is the new fuel pump I got from City Racer
Here is the new fuel pump I got from City Racer
acy76
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- #32
For those interested, I bought the "nut, union" from my local Toyota dealer (had two in stock!), some 5/16 ni-copp line, a 5/16 olive/ferrule/compression ring (local hardware store). The double-ended threaded fitting came off the plastic line from the frame rail, but it's the same one as on either side of the pump and (I assume) at the carb.
Cut the line, made a bubble flare on one end with a cheapo Harbor Freight flare tool, then screwed them together to squeeze the olive in place. Hey presto! no leaks.
Cut the line, made a bubble flare on one end with a cheapo Harbor Freight flare tool, then screwed them together to squeeze the olive in place. Hey presto! no leaks.
acy76
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- #34
I have found two threads here that seem to describe the problem I am having with the accelerator pump plunger:
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com
The first thread is directly related and seems to be the same problem. I did take the top of the carb off ("air horn" ?) and found a small rubber washer on top of the (I think) power piston adjacent to the plunger chamber. I recall thinking about whether to install this washer when I rebuilt the carb as it seemed to fit there and I had one of those "maybe I took that off?" moments.
After removing it the pump sprays plenty of gas until you connect the actuator arm to it, after which time it is again slow to move and stiff. It does run much better but still bogs and dies if you give it any amount of reasonable throttle.
So: removing the arm and it's free, install it and it binds.Must be linkage, right? Or the plunger is too long for this length arm (or vice versa)? The arm came with the carb so I have to assume it's correct, the plunger came with the kit.
The pin on the arm swings in an arc, so I can see that if the attachment point on the plunger is too far out one way or the other, it could be putting a lot of side force into the bore.
Anyone ever experience this, and, if so, how did you solve it?
accelerator pump question
Facts: 79 2F with stock Jim C rebuilt carb. The carb was rebuilt but not installed for almost 2 years and just sat on my work bench. Issue: Accelerator Pump is very slow to react and is very stiff. If actuated by hand by pulling up on its lever assembly the pump squirts nicely. When...
forum.ih8mud.com
carb - accelerator pump/plunger replacement
I've been trying to get my engine running right and found that my carb accelerator pump/plunger was sticking (Aisin Carb). When I removed it, I found the rubber collar on the plunger was flipped up. I performed some suggested cleaning, but that hasn't fixed the issue. The rubber collar...
forum.ih8mud.com
The first thread is directly related and seems to be the same problem. I did take the top of the carb off ("air horn" ?) and found a small rubber washer on top of the (I think) power piston adjacent to the plunger chamber. I recall thinking about whether to install this washer when I rebuilt the carb as it seemed to fit there and I had one of those "maybe I took that off?" moments.
After removing it the pump sprays plenty of gas until you connect the actuator arm to it, after which time it is again slow to move and stiff. It does run much better but still bogs and dies if you give it any amount of reasonable throttle.
So: removing the arm and it's free, install it and it binds.
The pin on the arm swings in an arc, so I can see that if the attachment point on the plunger is too far out one way or the other, it could be putting a lot of side force into the bore.
Anyone ever experience this, and, if so, how did you solve it?
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I wish I could help but I haven't rebuilt one of these yet. I have rebuilt my fair share of various 2 and 4 barrels though and I can say that when I get stuck like this, I pull it all apart again and follow the instructions step by freaking step and I compare the new to old as I go. Usually I find something in backwards.
acy76
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- Thread starter
- #37
Solved!
Bent the arm and linkage and made the problem worse. Took the top back off the carb, checked the pump bore, spring, the discharge stopper, and compared the old plunger with the new one. All looked good. Checked the manual, turns out the gasket I removed at the top of the discharge stopper is indeed correct, so that went back in.
Tested pumping a bit and got zero outflow, so, as it happens, there was debris in the accelerator pump discharge jet. Ground down a small diameter wire and poked at it, got brake cleaner to flow well, so buttoned it all back up.
Pumps great and isn’t hard to move at all. I guess that is what hydrolock does for ya!
I returned the arm and linkage to their original shapes and it runs great. I think it needs a little timing work (PO installed a new distributor) and minor adjustment but this was definitely the issue.
Bent the arm and linkage and made the problem worse. Took the top back off the carb, checked the pump bore, spring, the discharge stopper, and compared the old plunger with the new one. All looked good. Checked the manual, turns out the gasket I removed at the top of the discharge stopper is indeed correct, so that went back in.
Tested pumping a bit and got zero outflow, so, as it happens, there was debris in the accelerator pump discharge jet. Ground down a small diameter wire and poked at it, got brake cleaner to flow well, so buttoned it all back up.
Pumps great and isn’t hard to move at all. I guess that is what hydrolock does for ya!
I returned the arm and linkage to their original shapes and it runs great. I think it needs a little timing work (PO installed a new distributor) and minor adjustment but this was definitely the issue.
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acy76
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