1970 in CT (3 Viewers)

[ryanwk628]

I am getting into the 4 speed trans and t case. It looks like this t case was leaking out the parking break pretty bad but the rest was well sealed. Nothing terrible inside from what I can tell. Planning to order some parts, disassemble, clean and rebuild with a t case saver and double lip seal. After watching some of the awesome videos online and reading the manuals, I feel like the transfer case is pretty straight forward and does not require too many special tools. The 4 speed seems to need a bunch of special pullers. I thought about doing the 3 speed conversion but I don't like some things about the (original) 3 speed case I have that came with the truck.

I think this is an early 4 speed, but I dont know the build date of the truck it came out of. I'm confused because it looks like there is one kit that goes up to 4/75 and another starting at 1/75.

Anyone know how to decode this?

Everything seems to shift and turn nicely.

I would rather not rebuild the 4 speed. Any red flags or major things to consider? I dont see any chunks or broken teeth. I need to measure up the tolerances. There does seem to be some wear on the pilot bearing surface on the input shaft.

Need to sort out a puller to get the T case off the gearbox. I don't want to crank too hard against the aluminum. I have a parts T case I can swap things over from if I need to.

 

[RevISK]

Just read through your thread here, what a roller coaster.

Following along…

 

[ryanwk628]

I posted on a stand alone thread that the 4 speed input shaft pilot bearing surface is worn about 0.010. Got some great feedback from Mud on ways to deal with this! The 5202-ZZ bearing is probably the easiest solution, but that is TBD because I plan to complete the T case first. I have to keep telling myself: finish one project before starting another. Also, trying to spread out the costs of buying parts.

This weekend I took my time and got the transferase all apart. Weird stampings but I am pretty confident it is a 9/74 build date. I am going to measure a few diameters and confirm with Georg before ordering parts. A lot of this still looked good which I was thrilled with. Just very dirty on the outside. There was a major leak at the rear output, but the others looked dry. Double seal kit should fix that. I kept everything together and in order for the respective shaft axis with a giant zip tie looping through it.

The mix of oil, road grime and dirt is beyond tedious to remove. Working away at it mechanically before switching over to chemical methods. I am avoiding wire wheels and steel wool to not embed ferrous metals into the aluminum. A test area of an aluminum wheel cleaner showed promising results.

I did not realize there was a cover/plug at this end of the idler shaft and punched right through it.

Plan is clean up and rebuild with all new seals and bearings, t case saver and double seal output mod. Then onto the transmission.

 

[ryanwk628]

@orangefj45 was a huge help in confirming I got the correct parts for this rebuild. Excellent customer service! I did not expect my order to get here this quickly, thanks!
I am adding a t case saver and double lip seal.

I am not done soaking and cleaning parts but I am not sure how long I’ll be able to wait on getting this back together

 

[Green Bean]

You are to be commended for tackling this rebuild . The T-Case saver and double seal speedo-o housing are nice upgrades.

 

[orangefj45]

@orangefj45 was a huge help in confirming I got the correct parts for this rebuild. Excellent customer service! I did not expect my order to get here this quickly, thanks!
I am adding a t case saver and double lip seal.
View attachment 3594462
I am not done soaking and cleaning parts but I am not sure how long I’ll be able to wait on getting this back together

Thanks you so much for the kind words and support!!!!!

Happy to help if you run into any snags with the rebuild.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[ryanwk628]

I drove it around this weekend which helps keep the motivation up. I never put the top back on for the winter so it has been in the garage. I put it in 4 low with the vacuum 4wd mechanism and under dash selector linkage and the light worked! It never did in the past so the harness rebuilds must have healed it. Almost makes me want to keep the vac actuator... almost.

 

[ryanwk628]

Haven’t updated for a while, but I got the T case back together for the 4 speed and had been driving it around town here and there during the summer. Then I noticed a small bit of milky color when I drained the oil. I was also getting a bubble of coolant I was next to the notch in the head surface.

I removed the head, going further into this engine than I have been or wanted to go. I don’t see any cracks but need to do more cleaning. The bores and the valves look good. The head gasket was a metal one so I don’t think that blew out. Perhaps it was leaking into the notch on the underside of the head?

I got a Japanese replacement gasket. Does anyone have experience with either of these?

The new one does not seem as thick, but I did not have my calipers. I have been working on this is my late father’s garage which we cleaned out so I have to run home if I forget any tools.

Everything needs a good cleaning and a flatness check with a straight edge. The flash on my phone makes it look worse than it is though.

Do any of the bolts go into a water jacket? I was trying to see but couldn’t tell.

I need to replace two manifold studs where the threads look beat up. Will order that and a new remflex 7009A

Anything else I should do while I’m in here?

 

[ryanwk628]

Everything cleaned up alright. Both parts seem dead flat. No obvious evidence of cracks I have been able to see. Perhaps the coolant was leaking between layers. Right now Im doing more cleaning and am ordering a new remflex gasket and some replacement hardware. Need a good source for the 40mm M10 manifold studs

 

[mrboatman]

Have the head checked for cracks they are prone to cracking

 

[ryanwk628]

Have the head checked for cracks they are prone to cracking

That's my fear. I was hoping it is/was the gasket. I'm going to call a shop today.

If it is cracked, I think the 2F project moves up to the top of the list, which was not something I think I have the bandwidth for right now

Edit - talked to a shop that did my friend's chevy motor, does not seem like a big deal or a big expense. Will drop it off this week

 

[ryanwk628]

Machine shop just called, head pressure tested good! So I am having them resurface it and then will start getting it back together.

In the meantime I popped the pitman arm off and changed the output seal for the mechanical steering box. Filled it with molly grease instead of oil.

Normal pitman arm puller was a bit too small

Timken 710070

Its a mess. Has been leaking for as long as I've had it. Sprayed a lot of degreaser and scraped a lot of the sludge off.

I think my SOR oil filter lines of the remote oil filter itself may also be leaking, around the banjo. Need to investigate that when it gets back together.

 

[igotta40]

I drove it around this weekend which helps keep the motivation up. I never put the top back on for the winter so it has been in the garage. I put it in 4 low with the vacuum 4wd mechanism and under dash selector linkage and the light worked! It never did in the past so the harness rebuilds must have healed it. Almost makes me want to keep the vac actuator... almost.

When I arrived at the used car lot to buy this ‘71 they had it in their shop. The salesman told me they replaced the battery, voltage regulator and alternator but the charging light was still on. I told him I would buy it as is. I took it out of 4 wheel drive, the light went out and I drove it home. That was in 1983. $1,700+tax.

 

[RevISK]

When I arrived at the used car lot to buy this ‘71 they had it in their shop. The salesman told me they replaced the battery, voltage regulator and alternator but the charging light was still on. I told him I would buy it as is. I took it out of 4 wheel drive, the light went out and I drove it home. That was in 1983. $1,700+tax.

View attachment 3739877

I got a $5,000 atv for a grand and a $2 main fuse the same way. Even told the guy, “it’s not working because of the main fuse being blown”.

Your story is better though.

 

[ryanwk628]

Going from an MLS to the City Race composite gasket, would you use Copper Coat on the gasket? I cant find anything on the manufacturer's site and forum opinions seem mixed generally. Head being resurfaced, block is not coming out.

Extra insurance vs unnecessary head ache

 

[charliemeyer007]

I would soak the gasket in warm water (bath tub) for 1/2 hour if it has any fiber. Torque by pattern and in 1/3 amount at a time. I would try and have everything ready so could fire it up quickly and let it run for say 1/2 hour - let it cool then hit the torque sequence again at the final value. After a few dozen heat cycles check them again.

 

[ryanwk628]

I would soak the gasket in warm water (bath tub) for 1/2 hour if it has any fiber. Torque by pattern and in 1/3 amount at a time. I would try and have everything ready so could fire it up quickly and let it run for say 1/2 hour - let it cool then hit the torque sequence again at the final value. After a few dozen heat cycles check them again.

Thanks. I believe it is graphite with some embedded metal. Perhaps a coating but I don't want to remove the plastic until I am ready to install.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I learned the soaking gasket trick from my aviation mechanic dad, it helps to soften the gasket so the high spots can easily dig in - making for a better seal - sooner.

 

[ryanwk628]

Got the head back pressure tested, cleaned and surfaced. Took the opportunity to mask and paint it.

Also wire wheeled and painted the manifold with dry film graphite paint. Looks much better

City Racer head gasket

Head on and torqued

 

[ryanwk628]

Replaced the rocker shaft o rings with new ones from Redline. The old ones were as hard as a rock.

Used plenty of assembly lube on the lifters, push rods and rockers

Got the pushrod cover back on, distributor stabbed in and set back where it was.