1970 in CT (1 Viewer)

[ryanwk628]

I am getting into the 4 speed trans and t case. It looks like this t case was leaking out the parking break pretty bad but the rest was well sealed. Nothing terrible inside from what I can tell. Planning to order some parts, disassemble, clean and rebuild with a t case saver and double lip seal. After watching some of the awesome videos online and reading the manuals, I feel like the transfer case is pretty straight forward and does not require too many special tools. The 4 speed seems to need a bunch of special pullers. I thought about doing the 3 speed conversion but I don't like some things about the (original) 3 speed case I have that came with the truck.

I think this is an early 4 speed, but I dont know the build date of the truck it came out of. I'm confused because it looks like there is one kit that goes up to 4/75 and another starting at 1/75.

Anyone know how to decode this?

Everything seems to shift and turn nicely.

I would rather not rebuild the 4 speed. Any red flags or major things to consider? I dont see any chunks or broken teeth. I need to measure up the tolerances. There does seem to be some wear on the pilot bearing surface on the input shaft.

Need to sort out a puller to get the T case off the gearbox. I don't want to crank too hard against the aluminum. I have a parts T case I can swap things over from if I need to.

 

[RevISK]

Just read through your thread here, what a roller coaster.

Following along…

 

[ryanwk628]

I posted on a stand alone thread that the 4 speed input shaft pilot bearing surface is worn about 0.010. Got some great feedback from Mud on ways to deal with this! The 5202-ZZ bearing is probably the easiest solution, but that is TBD because I plan to complete the T case first. I have to keep telling myself: finish one project before starting another. Also, trying to spread out the costs of buying parts.

This weekend I took my time and got the transferase all apart. Weird stampings but I am pretty confident it is a 9/74 build date. I am going to measure a few diameters and confirm with Georg before ordering parts. A lot of this still looked good which I was thrilled with. Just very dirty on the outside. There was a major leak at the rear output, but the others looked dry. Double seal kit should fix that. I kept everything together and in order for the respective shaft axis with a giant zip tie looping through it.

The mix of oil, road grime and dirt is beyond tedious to remove. Working away at it mechanically before switching over to chemical methods. I am avoiding wire wheels and steel wool to not embed ferrous metals into the aluminum. A test area of an aluminum wheel cleaner showed promising results.

I did not realize there was a cover/plug at this end of the idler shaft and punched right through it.

Plan is clean up and rebuild with all new seals and bearings, t case saver and double seal output mod. Then onto the transmission.

 

[ryanwk628]

@orangefj45 was a huge help in confirming I got the correct parts for this rebuild. Excellent customer service! I did not expect my order to get here this quickly, thanks!
I am adding a t case saver and double lip seal.

I am not done soaking and cleaning parts but I am not sure how long I’ll be able to wait on getting this back together

 

[Green Bean]

You are to be commended for tackling this rebuild . The T-Case saver and double seal speedo-o housing are nice upgrades.

 

[orangefj45]

@orangefj45 was a huge help in confirming I got the correct parts for this rebuild. Excellent customer service! I did not expect my order to get here this quickly, thanks!
I am adding a t case saver and double lip seal.
View attachment 3594462
I am not done soaking and cleaning parts but I am not sure how long I’ll be able to wait on getting this back together

Thanks you so much for the kind words and support!!!!!

Happy to help if you run into any snags with the rebuild.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[ryanwk628]

I drove it around this weekend which helps keep the motivation up. I never put the top back on for the winter so it has been in the garage. I put it in 4 low with the vacuum 4wd mechanism and under dash selector linkage and the light worked! It never did in the past so the harness rebuilds must have healed it. Almost makes me want to keep the vac actuator... almost.