Builds 1970 FatherSonJ40 project

[CruisinGA]

No, I reamed my late model (79+) 40 series steering arms and 80 series pitman arm to use domestic 1-ton TRE's.

Tie Rods Ends and Drag Links

Information on reamers:

Taper Bit? Help

I need you help. I was using my buddies taper bit on my pitman arm and broke it this weekend. I need to replace it quick. I seem to always break his crap. It is a 7/8 taper bit. Anybody have a place i can order two of them. One for him and one for me so i dont break his again. haha Thanks

www.pirate4x4.com

All parts and kits: Tie Rod End Steering Kits - https://barnes4wd.com/collections/tie-rod-end-steering-kits

 

[Kmehr]

No, I reamed my late model (79+) 40 series steering arms and 80 series pitman arm to use domestic 1-ton TRE's.

Tie Rods Ends and Drag Links

Information on reamers:

Taper Bit? Help

I need you help. I was using my buddies taper bit on my pitman arm and broke it this weekend. I need to replace it quick. I seem to always break his crap. It is a 7/8 taper bit. Anybody have a place i can order two of them. One for him and one for me so i dont break his again. haha Thanks

www.pirate4x4.com

All parts and kits: Tie Rod End Steering Kits - https://barnes4wd.com/collections/tie-rod-end-steering-kits

Dang I wish I'd have explored this more before I bought the high steer kit....

Follow up question- is there more meat at the "hole/TRE" side on the large pattern knuckles or is it just bigger at the knuckle attachment side?

 

[Kmehr]

Following LC wizard's advice, I'm going to return or sell the High steer kit and go with a GM y link setup from Barnes. Going to try reaming out the steering arms I have currently for the GM 1 ton taper. I have a spare set of small knuckle arms and knuckles, so no worries if they get screwed up, can always return to stock. Also I have a set of the large pattern knuckles I can swap to if I don't feel comfortable with the meat left on the arms after reaming, then I can move to a bigger arm. I think Front Range Fab makes arms the follow the stock drop but give lots of options for steering setups. They do require the knuckles to be machined though, so if I can avoid that, I will.

 

[Kmehr]

We’ll ran into another “that’s not going to work” with the steering column bearing. Got my shaft all disassembled (the worm gear design is really cool) and realized that my firewall is vertical, the support bearing I got from TPI (advertised for 73+) is also vertical, but my steering shaft/column is quite obviously at an angle and that’s not going to just bolt up…

 

[Kmehr]

Small progress today. Picked up some 1/4in plate to make my firewall mount. That thickness seems a bit overkill, but that’s what Man-a-Fre uses, so went with it. The outside shape and bolt holes were easy enough, but the angled hole has been tricky. I really don’t want to take out too much material and end up with an ugly gap filled with weld, so cut a 1 1/2 in hole and and slowly grinding, test fitting, grinding till it slides in nicely. Should get steering shaft in Wednesday, so hopefully can get this end buttoned up this weekend. Still looking like another 45 days or so on my hydro booster, so could be in parts jail soon.

The plate, and some sweet new hats for the boy and me.

 

[Kmehr]

Got my steering kit in today, but unfortunately the whole order is wrong. I was able to take the tre out and get some measurements. I couldn’t find these measurements anywhere, so here they are for posterity, with pictures:

The "meat" on a small pattern FJ40 steering arm measures right at .35in thickness at the widest point.

The total outside diameter of the TRE hole on an FJ40 small pattern steering arm is 1.184

The outside diameter of the threads on an FJ40 TRE is .47in. that puts the shank almost exactly at .5in.

The outside diameter of a GM 1-ton TRE threads is .612in.

A comparison of a GM 1-ton TRE and an FJ40 TRE:

 

[Kmehr]

And here is a GM 1 ton TRE next to the FJ40 small pattern steering arm:

This has me really thinking hard about whether reaming the arms out is a good idea. If I'm doing the math right, the total diameter of the hole for the steering arm if reamed/tapered for the GM 1-ton TRE increases the hole roughly .142in. This leaves approximately .279in of "meat" around the hole, which is a 20% reduction from .35in in stock configuration. I know the hole is tapered, but that math is a little too complicated for my brain. I guess when I say it out loud, having a little over a 1/4in of steel around the TRE is still a pretty good amount of material. Thoughts?

 

[Kmehr]

Barnes sent my correct steering quickly and it came today, this stuff is the beef! I did some more measuring and I’m still on the fence about reaming my steering arms. The GM 1 ton TREs are just SO much bigger. By my measurements, reaming the early FJ40 arms leaves .1765in of meat on the large side and .206in of meat on the small side of the taper hole, that sure doesn’t seem like much.

Can anyone confirm the later large pattern arms have more material? Midwest Expedition Outfitters makes a stock angle keyed arm that it looking like the move for me. Man this thing has spiraled! Nobody ever said fixing up old cars was cheap! At least if I went that route, my front end would be as stout as it gets.

Also, I really don’t think the Trail Gear HI steer arms would work- the photo with the tape measure shows where the bottom of the high steer arm would be compared to the original (2 1/4in difference)
Here are some pics with measurements:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Yes, the late model large pattern 6x/7x arm had a considerably larger cross section and material at the hole. We aren't super comfortable reaming the early arms for a 8x TRE (but have done many without issue) let alone 1-Ton, definitely getting too thin.

I didn't scan back far, how large of tires are you planning with this build? Guessing 37"+ with the desire to go 1-Ton?

 

[Kmehr]

Yes, the late model large pattern 6x/7x arm had a considerably larger cross section and material at the hole. We aren't super comfortable reaming the early arms for a 8x TRE (but have done many without issue) let alone 1-Ton, definitely getting too thin.

I didn't scan back far, how large of tires are you planning with this build? Guessing 37"+ with the desire to go 1-Ton?

I’m running 33s now, but will probably go 35s in the future.

I really went 1-ton on the steering because of availability and options more so than strength. It really seems like there isn’t an easy way to do the steering change without either going 1-ton or doing a real hodge podge of different parts.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I’m running 33s now, but will probably go 35s in the future.

I really went 1-ton on the steering because of availability and options more so than strength. It really seems like there isn’t an easy way to do the steering change without either going 1-ton or doing a real hodge podge of different parts.

Gotcha, curious to see how it all comes together. What does the passenger side connection look like? Sans a high steer arm, how does the 1-Ton drag-link engage the passenger tie rod end?

IMO 80 Series stuff is really straightforward/easy imo. Arms are avail setup for the taper, tubes are generally available in lengths to meet your exact PS setup.

 

[Kmehr]

Gotcha, curious to see how it all comes together. What does the passenger side connection look like? Sans a high steer arm, how does the 1-Ton drag-link engage the passenger tie rod end?

IMO 80 Series stuff is really straightforward/easy imo. Arms are avail setup for the taper, tubes are generally available in lengths to meet your exact PS setup.

This is the setup I got from Barnes, it’s setup just like the stock system. I agree on the 80 stuff, probably would have been just about as easy as GM. Ultimately went with the Barnes kit cause it was complete and stout as hell looking.

Under The Knuckle One Ton Y-Link Steering Kit

Sometimes it's just not possible to fit crossover steering on your rig this is where our Y-link steering kit can save the day. If you are having to work around leaf springs, or if you only have the the two factory mounting locations on your steering knuckles our y-link kit is a great upgrade...

barnes4wd.com

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Cool, that looks like it will do the trick. And you'll be set if you ever decide to go to 40" tires

 

[Kmehr]

Pittman arm came in today, thing is beefy and taper for GM TRE already courtesy of 4x4 labs.

Ended up ordering SOR’s HD steering arms for 60 series knuckles. They’re factory specs, just much beefier. Plus at $175/pair, I could by two spare sets for what it would cost for the MEO billet ones!

Bummer news- I finally bought a shop air compressor- 60gallon Dewalt unit on sale at tractor supply for $750. Had my eye on one for years and finally got sick of fixing my 25 year old second hand craftsman every third time I turned it on. I’ve always had good luck with Dewalt stuff, and was always my dads brand growing up. Looks like the motor is bad right out of the box. Spent all my spare time the last three days running around getting the right fittings to plumb it and the stupid thing is dead on arrival! Now I’ve gotta load that stupid heavy thing up in my truck again and take it back to swap out. Bummer. The replacement better work or I’m switching brands!

 

[Kmehr]

Small update- swapped out my new compressor today for another one. Tractor supply was really good about it and swapped it out no questions asked. Interesting note- they had two of the exact same model in stock- one had the same generic Chinese motor on it as I started with, and the other had a Marathon motor (though still said assembled in china). I’m not typically one to bash Chinese made or assembled stuff, but this was a visibly different quality on the exact same model. Anyways, now I’m ready to rock!

 

[Kmehr]

Just about finished up the steering column today. Got the tube welded up with the plate for the firewall and the bearing installed. Needs just a little more tweaking to get the shaft in. Some pics: (don’t judge my poor welds, forgot to sand the paint off before tack welding the plate on)

 

[Kmehr]

Steering column is largely finished and ready to installed to get the box position and steering shaft finalized. Was able to use my new mini belt sander and compressor to polish the shaft down to fit just right in the column bearing. I think I have a tool addiction…

Should get new arms on Friday and hopefully get them reamed next week. Nobody wants my Trail Gear hi steer setup for a good deal?!

 

[CruisinGA]

be careful when reaming, it is easy to get carried away and ream too deep which can limit articulation of the rod end or squeeze the boot. Ask me how I know

 

[Kmehr]

be careful when reaming, it is easy to get carried away and ream too deep which can limit articulation of the rod end or squeeze the boot. Ask me how I know

Plan is to go just a little bit more than necessary to get the castle but on and cotter pin hole free?

 

[Kmehr]

Merry Christmas!

Opened up my HD steering arms and these things are the beef! Definitely plenty of material to ream out for the GM 1-ton ends and the FJ60 hole is much closer in size that it won’t require removing nearly as mush material as the 40 arms either. This steering setup is going to turn any tire I can throw at it.