- Thread starter
- #421
But then I wouldn’t waste a lot of time making stuff from scratch?
Yeah that and you can get hex stock as well. Good idea; Ace has a lot of fastener options.
Builds 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter royal cake
- Start date
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Yeah that and you can get hex stock as well. Good idea; Ace has a lot of fastener options.
- Thread starter
- #422
So I picked up this stainless grab bar on Amazon for $5; seems like it could work good since I only have to open up one hole for it to fit the current hole pattern above the door.
But- it’s only two 6mm fasteners. Seems like that may be a bit light duty for a handle? Thoughts?
But- it’s only two 6mm fasteners. Seems like that may be a bit light duty for a handle? Thoughts?
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If you need an assist, you need an assist. Things may fatigue over time. But you have to ask yourself: do I own my possessions, or do my possessions own me?
- Thread starter
- #424
I got everything torn apart today and replaced the timing cover gasket. Haven’t started it up so not sure if it’s fixed, but probably safe to say this was the cause of the last issue.
- Thread starter
- #425
Stopped here to check for leaks. Nothing…yet.
- Thread starter
- #426
Let’s continue down my path to taking care of leaks.
Long story short in addition to what I posted I previously, I noticed ex wetness around my flywheel cover. After doing some investigating I was convinced it was the pan gasket. So last week I replaced the pan gasket and found out the fasteners used were all messed up for several reasons.
So anyway on went the pan gasket with FIPG and new fasteners from Overland Metric, who had great service.
I drove around quite a hit today and the rear leak is still there. I saw a ring if you will around the inside of the bell housing where the flywheel was probably slinging it. So my worry is it’s the rear main. Anyway; I’m tired of wrenching and going to drive it for a while and see where it goes.
I’ve also got a drop at the parking brake I’m thinking is the transfer case fluid.
Long story short in addition to what I posted I previously, I noticed ex wetness around my flywheel cover. After doing some investigating I was convinced it was the pan gasket. So last week I replaced the pan gasket and found out the fasteners used were all messed up for several reasons.
So anyway on went the pan gasket with FIPG and new fasteners from Overland Metric, who had great service.
I drove around quite a hit today and the rear leak is still there. I saw a ring if you will around the inside of the bell housing where the flywheel was probably slinging it. So my worry is it’s the rear main. Anyway; I’m tired of wrenching and going to drive it for a while and see where it goes.
I’ve also got a drop at the parking brake I’m thinking is the transfer case fluid.
- Thread starter
- #427
I just realized it’s pretty hard to see the oil in the pictures. I’ll get some new ones after I’ve driven it a while. I had wiped these down a bit…
It may still be the pan gasket, especially if the motor was rebuilt and it was recently replaced. I was convinced my rear main was leaking, pulled the trans and all that and found a leaky oil pan arch. That spot is really difficult to seal. I used an OEM gasket, FIPG on the corners and some of those snap-up things to hold the gasket in place while installing a dimpled oil pan, and it was still a little weepy. Anyway, ymmv.
Link here.
Link here.
- Thread starter
- #429
Thanks for the reminder. I’m going to have to just lay under there and run it until I can see the first sign of anything. Bummer if it’s still the pan gasket but a lot better than doing the main seal.
I also thought of just letting ‘er ride for half a minute to see if it clears up. I have no idea if those cork gaskets need to “break in” by soaking up some warm oil and swelling to create a tighter seal. I don’t even know if that’s a thing but it sounds good in theory. 
No harm in just driving for a little while and throwing some cardboard under there for now.
No harm in just driving for a little while and throwing some cardboard under there for now.
- Thread starter
- #431
Yeah absolutely. It didn’t even drip to the ground after the ride so it’s not an emergency. Gonna drive her for a while and enjoyI also thought of just letting ‘er ride for half a minute to see if it clears up. I have no idea if those cork gaskets need to “break in” by soaking up some warm oil and swelling to create a tighter seal. I don’t even know if that’s a thing but it sounds good in theory.
- Thread starter
- #432
In todays episode of catching up on my list of things to do, I tackled the weeping clutch master cylinder and my front license plate.
I was getting some drips on my “new” master and over the weeks of watching it it seemed like it was coming from the base of the reservoir. But it would collect near the end cap joint so wasn’t sure.
Pulled it today and noticed the reservoir was damaged where it gets screwed on and the copper washer bent way out of shape. I grabbed my old one and the plastic was in much better shape and much thicker. I put the old one on and so far so good. I also pulled the end cap and cleaned up that giant copper washer for good measure.
I was getting some drips on my “new” master and over the weeks of watching it it seemed like it was coming from the base of the reservoir. But it would collect near the end cap joint so wasn’t sure.
Pulled it today and noticed the reservoir was damaged where it gets screwed on and the copper washer bent way out of shape. I grabbed my old one and the plastic was in much better shape and much thicker. I put the old one on and so far so good. I also pulled the end cap and cleaned up that giant copper washer for good measure.
- Thread starter
- #433
For the front license plate I found a black coated Simpson bracket at Home Depot and drilled some extra holes to attach a piece of Lexan I had laying around. Used that Lexan as a backer for the license plate and mounted to the bumper in an existing hole. It works fine, but an upgrade might be an aluminum backing plate to stiffen it up.
- Thread starter
- #434
While I prepare to tackle the rear main seal I made a latch for the back swing gate. I had thought about this for a while and didn’t have any slick solutions. So I just bent up a piece of stainless I had around and put a latch/spring of something on Amazon. Seems to work good and hold tight. I made a notch for the pin to sit to you can lock it in the retracted position when opening the door
- Thread starter
- #435
And back to the rear main- I cleaned everything up and ran it, and saw this nice stream coming from the front of the flywheel. I assume that’s the issue I’m dealing with here.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Following with interest, as I too will be tackling the dreaded RMS R&R. 
Me too. My throw out bearing just started making all kinds of noise in my '69, so looks like I'll be dropping trans/transfer soon for a clutch and rear main seal job as well.Following with interest, as I too will be tackling the dreaded RMS R&R.
- Thread starter
- #438
Merry Christmas all!
I tackled the tear down today for the rear main. Once I got going I’ll say it wasn’t too bad; most of my time was spent making sure I had a good hold of the trans/transfer and pulled it out slow.
I was able to tilt the gas tank enough to get the trans hump out. I was going to remove it but of course I had a full tank.
I tackled the tear down today for the rear main. Once I got going I’ll say it wasn’t too bad; most of my time was spent making sure I had a good hold of the trans/transfer and pulled it out slow.
I was able to tilt the gas tank enough to get the trans hump out. I was going to remove it but of course I had a full tank.
- Thread starter
- #439
So if you don’t remember I was also chasing some trans fluid near the parking brake plate. I first thought it was at that seal (double seal put in by Mark @65swb45. When I got it apart, it was bone dry inside so that seal is fine. When I got the assembly out I could see a distinct path to this bolt/keeper. Not sure what this part is. Any ideas Mark?
- Thread starter
- #440
So on to the rear main. All I can see is the top of the seal was not seated all the way. I got the seal out but haven’t inspected the block/crank surfaces yet. There was definitely oil all around this area and none coming from higher on the block.
