Build 1969 FJ40 Father / Son Build

[royal cake]

Yeah, you would need a block off plate with no heat riser flap. Cruiser Outfitters sells one.

Are you burning ethanol fuel? It will boil at lower Temps than non ethanol and its worse for your carb, etc.

Thanks- I can’t believe I don’t have pictures of that or otherwise looked into it. This seems like the ticket.
Yeah whatever ethanol California runs

 

[royal cake]

Disassembled the exhaust manifold today to prep for the heat riser block off plate. Of course as luck would have it, one of the exhaust nuts was seized on the stud. Strange cause I just got the exhaust put on last week. I had to get it off and sure enough the stud broke.

So onto the mill it went to get as much material out until I could see threads and was able to tap it after that.

I’m super tempted to do the other one but also know not to tempt fate and cause a bigger issue, so leaving it for now.

 

[royal cake]

While I’m waiting to get a block off plate, I said why not use some time today and make one that sits on the heat riser shaft (which is now just a bolt)? If one block off plate is good why not two?
Cut a piece of steel, welded a riser then a tube. Make up the rest of the span with two turned brass pieces and got it assembled. Nice tight fit and it can’t rotate down.

 

[RevISK]

That other bolt looks crusty AF. If it were me, I’d replace it now while it’s off.
But I’ve never been accused of being terribly smart.

 

[royal cake]

That other bolt looks crusty AF. If it were me, I’d replace it now while it’s off.
But I’ve never been accused of being terribly smart.

Yeah it’s tempting. I’m confident I can get it, but just don’t want to crack anything. I put some vice grips on it and it’s not budging, so I’d have to cut and drill it. Decisions…

 

[65swb45]

Are you using brass nuts?

 

[royal cake]

Are you using brass nuts?

Hey Mark - no. The brass in there was just a spacer. The bolt and nut holding everything is plain steel.

 

[65swb45]

I don’t know if Toyota still offers them, but all the 1F Landcruisers that I worked on back in the’80s and ‘90s had tall brass nuts, and I assumed it had something to do with being anti-seize.
I still have a boxful of used ones if needed.

 

[royal cake]

I don’t know if Toyota still offers them, but all the 1F Landcruisers that I worked on back in the’80s and ‘90s had tall brass nuts, and I assumed it had something to do with being anti-seize.
I still have a boxful of used ones if needed.

Ahh, interesting I gotcha, for the exhaust flange.
Yeah I can certainly put some on. It’s a good idea since the preload at that interface doesn’t need to be high it would seem, but keeping stuff some seizing on the exhaust is always an issue. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[royal cake]

I’m good to giving into peer pressure.
I welded a nut onto the stud in hopes of spinning it out after heating up with a torch. Well that part of the plan worked but once I heated it up it sheared off like a piece of taffy. So in the end good thing to replace it cause it would have probably failed soon.

 

[royal cake]

So onto the mill it went, got it thinned out until I saw thread (part of the hole complete in the picture) and got it tapped.

 

[royal cake]

And since Mark put a bug in my ear about the brass nuts I got started on making those. I’ll cut the hex tomorrow.
I live pretty close to Mark but not close enough for my impatience.

 

[RevISK]

So onto the mill it went, got it thinned out until I saw thread (part of the hole complete in the picture) and got it tapped.

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This picture soothes me.
Nice work.

 

[royal cake]

Got everything back together last night and adjusted the valves again for good measure. Only had to tweak very slightly.
The block off plate definitely made a difference. I measure the temp at the base of the carb again and also looking at the fuel in the sight glass.
However my 20 minute rest after getting to operating temp shows it still has to crank maybe 3-4 seconds to start up. If I put the pedal to the floor it will probably fire right up.
Reading around this seems fairly common and maybe the reason for the carb cooling fan. Do most of you out there with the same issue just run as-is or is it worth looking into retrofitting with some sort of cooling

 

[6f40j9]

Going to try out this support rod cup. Turned a piece of aluminum on the lathe and swapped out the thermostat housing bolt with a socket head cap screw, slightly longer to make up for the thickness.
I put it in the closer bolt to not have a big moment arm on the housing.
Also verified the tranny spins and front drive shaft all working. Very tempting to just take the top on and drove it around
Also got the air cleaner on and just need to find a hose clamp at the carb interface.
Also found the box of parts with hood and door hardware and it had my hood spear! It was good day - now I can take a few parts for chrome.

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I’ve always wondered where the original intended spot for the hood rod to land is. Right now I don’t even use it, as the windshield frame is a handy resting place (up until I removed it last week anyway )

 

[royal cake]

I had some left over thick walled aluminum tubing from an old pool fence that had a surprising close finish on it. It worked pretty well as a spacer for the tire carrier.

 

[royal cake]

I’ve been busy with work lately and not a lot of time to keep working projects, but on the other hand I’m having the time of my life driving the 40!
For the running boards I decided to go with the later style still avail from Toyota. I got them from Japan on eBay, went smoothly.
Still had to do some minor work on the hole alignment but came out ok. The passenger side will need some more work but that sounds like a good project for today.
Also noticed on my timing cover repair that o over tightened the lower two bolts. I went per the FSM but looks like I curled up the cork gasket so I plan to replace that this weekend as well.
Happy Thanksgiving all!

 

[peesalot]

I wanna see more brass nuts ????

 

[royal cake]

I wanna see more brass nuts ????

Waiting to be hexed!
I couldn’t wait to get my exhaust in so I have a temporary nut on there gooped with anti seize. I’ll post once I get them done this weekend

 

[peesalot]

Ace sells brass nuts, just drill and tap, the brass nuts have alot of material ( more than steel ) between threads and flat so should /could work ? Just thinking out loud.