1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

As you work the metal it tends to get harder and more brittle. Same process as when you flex steel back and forth and it breaks.

You had good luck doing double flaring? What tool did you use (brand and maybe a "how to")?
 
I understand what you mean now. I don't think I worked it nearly enough for that to happen. But, I will probably bend new stuff just to have new. As for the tool, it was just a cheap one from the local auto parts store. I would suggest to buy the best brand you can find b/c the tool I used was a cheap Chinese made piece of junk, but I I had to have it that day. I will return it and find a nice one. But even as junky as it was, it was not difficult to make the double flare. I did buy a nice bender and that really helps also. I also heard the hand plies type of bender works well for close up bends.
btpliers.webp
 
Finally a little progress

I got all my bolts and nuts back from the platers so now I have something to work with. We started putting things back together. The engine is the next big step. I have to give a huge big thumbs up to Jim Godwin who gave me a 2F block out of a FJ60 he was parting. It has been delivered to the machine shop and pistons etc. will be ordered on Monday. So finally, the engine can be installed. I wasted a lot of time dicking with Full-Torque, Permanent Thread Replacement threaded inserts which in the end they said they did not have the ones I needed to make the repair. Just as well, bc, now the entire engine will be new like the rest of the truck. More on the engine later.
4x4 lever parts.webp
4x4 lever parts (1).webp
body bolts.webp
 
more 8

Here are the new JIS bolts I had plated yellow dichromate. And the new vs. the old stock JIS. Heads are the same size, just no indention. Still working on finding new indented head bolts, but have plenty of re-plated old to work with for now.
new JIS bolts (1).webp
new JIS bolts (2).webp
JIS new vs. old (1).webp
 
Trollhole said:
Very nice. Got to love the plating.
Click to expand...

yea, gotta give the cruiser some bling ;)

does anyone know where I can get some +.40 over pistons for a 79-84 2F? The new/old block I picked up from Godwin has already been bored so I have to go to +.4 and can not use my stock pistons :frown: more friggen money. MAF has them, but not in stock and they are saying it could be 4 weeks. $OR has them, but twice the $ so that is no good.
 
Can you guys help me with a few questions please? See picture.

1. Should the dampener arm pin seat all the way into the center arm? The pin sent to me by MAF will not go all the way down when tightened. Both ends are that way, I think I may have the wrong part?

2. Are there suppose to be any washers or spacers between the frame and the lower bracket that gives the center arm support? If we tighten it up to the frame it pinches the center arm shaft and it will not rotate.

3. Does anyone have any extra woodruff keys and a better picture than the one from SOR web site?

This has turned into a comedy act bc I was not the one who took this apart and not the one putting it back together. My mechanic has lost some of the parts and I don't think he is putting it back together correctly. It can't be that freaking difficult. Idiot used some standard woodruff keys and the center arm had at least 1/8" slop in it when I checked it out after he put it back together. :bang: This is very frustrating bc due to my poor health, I can not be the one to twist the wrench's right now and he speaks little English so I have to try and explain how he f#$%^ed up what he has done. :bang::bang::bang:

Thanks for the help
IMG_9756 with words.webp
 
No spacers on the bracket from the frame and, no, the damper does not bottom out (it's a tapered pin).

Have you done your rear quarters yet? I'm trying to find out status from Eshan but he has not responded to my PM's.
 
merbesfield said:
3. Does anyone have any extra woodruff keys and a better picture than the one from SOR web site?
Click to expand...

I had to get the center arm assembly from Matt's truck since my center arm was missing parts that were not included in the rebuild kit, specifically the lower support and the arm had been welded back together after breaking! :rolleyes:

Do you need a photo of an assembled center arm?

There's a good cross section of the center arm in my OEM shop manual if that's what you need. It also gives rebuilding instructions too! Let me know if a scan would be helpful. According to the manual you tighten the center arm nut until a pull scale on the longest arm reads 13-40 lbs when the arm begins to rotate.

Sorry, no keys, I guess they are not part of the rebuild kit. I can't remember since I did mine a year or two ago. The keys should be relatively easy to make up though. Key material is easy to come by and it is generally quite soft as well.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom