Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread (1 Viewer)

[buckroseau]

I wonder what the Vegas odds would have been on that cop car being on that road at that time AND the hardass cop being his WIFE! You are one lucky dude!

Too cool to see her on the road. Might want to start a new thread on possible causes of death wobble. Loose U-bolts is a good one. Oh btw, you are out of gas, your engine is running cold and your amp meter shows those headlights pulling some serious amps! Unless the battery was down a bit as well?

The odds of all that happening are high.....your right I'm sure 1000 to 1, probably even considerably higher? And yes, I am lucky!!

Your also right on everyone of those gauges.....they are all reading correctly

Thanks, Matt

 

[buckroseau]

the shake is most likely caused by bent rims, they look pretty but are mostly likely not straight.

That might be the cause, I know a couple of them needed some serious wheel weights to bring them into balance.

I have been thinking about ordering up a new set anyway, wife wants them painted the lower half beige color anyway.

Thanks, Matt

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Darin,

I still have the factory harness..I did have to clip a couple ends off to adapt to my EZ21 harness, but for the most part it's there? You can pick my brain all you want, but I don't know if there's much to pick?

By the way on that carb stuff, I haven't forgot....the stuff is yours. I just have not had time to get out there and get it. Keep hounding me and if you really need it ASAP, let me know and I'll get after it!!

Thanks, Matt

Matt,

Was trying to get some help from the 40 section but was not too much help from there. Here goes.

1) Starter - Have the hot wire from the battery then these two from the new harness. Ign switch start, Solinoid power.Not too sure which lug they go to.

2) Coil - Have the coil positive wire and the tach wire. I am not running points or a resister, have a aftermarket setup in the dis.

3) Alt - Have 2 wires coming to it. Alt exitor and Alt power. Not sure which spot they go in and does it need another additional wire going somewhere else like groung or over to the batt / starter.

Again thanks for any and all help.

Thanks Darin

 

[krzyabncanuck]

I have the OE wiring and the FSM with the correct diagrams. Let me know what you need and I can take pics and scan the pages you need.

TreerootCO,

Hey thanks man for the offer, actually got some stuff off of your site for this but i am trying to put an EZ in this thing and having some small problems, and i do not want to fry this thing.

Again Thanks, Darin

 

[semlin]

btw, does Sylivia look anything like this?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Nothing beats the first drive...

 

[buckroseau]

Couple hours on the lv tonight, nothing major, but a few more gremlins coming out.

Got out there and made sure to put my license plates on!!!!! And also throw the new insurance card I got today in the center console Didn't want a repeat of last night, no taillights yet, but that's an easy cheap ticket compared to no insurance in Minnesota.

After that, hopped in, fired it up and backed out. I had tighted up the U bolts so my main concern was to see if the death wobble would come back? Down the highway about 60 mph......no wobble....I threw the steering wheel around a bit and changed up my speed trying to re-produce the wobble, nothing.....thinking the U-bolts were the problem, lets hope..

After about 8 miles running down the road all of a sudden a squeal occured underneath the hood. Slowly pulled over and shut if off, popped the hood...all 4 bolts in my water pump pulley had worked loose and my belt had popped off??? Bolts where still in there, but the pulley was wobbling enough to throw the belt. Got on the cell phone and called my mechanic buddy, I had no tools with me. He swung over right away with a coulpe wrenches and we had it back on in minutes. After getting it home I took the bolts out 1 by 1 and removed the flat washer I had in there and just let the lock washer squeeze up against the pulley, also put blue loctite on each one...should hold now.

My mechanic buddy adjusted the the kickdown cable on the carb, got the tranny reving higher before it shifted...works nice now.

Got back and put it back up on the hoist. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Rear brake cylinders are supposed to be here tomorrow, so that's tomorrow nights job.

PS. I took some glamour shots on a higher resolution on my camera, but I am having trouble re-sizing them??? Anyone got an email address I can send them to and you can host them???? Treeroot? ???

Matt

 

[treerootCO]

I need to redo the links....

 

[cruiser ken]

Incredible work Matt, that looks awesome.

Did you ever get the washer pump, did it work?

 

[CarcaineProblems]

It looks amazing - I talk about this truck with some of my friends and I've been sending them photos of it over the past few months. They're anxious to see these "nearly complete" photos. A guy I met recently is from Roseau and is surprised there's over 100k views on this thread - small world. This truck is very impressive.

 

[merbesfield]

Congratulations on a job well done. I appreciate all the hard work you have done and the fact that what you have done will greatly assist me and all the other cruiser nuts on this forum when it comes to restoring our own LV's. I applaude your wife as well, mine merely thinks I am insane.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Now Matt, Those pics are just awesome.

 

[Poser]

Looking great Matt man!





Your wobble was from loose u bolts....If you had a bent wheel, it would have been doing it the first time you took the truck over 30mph....


Talk with you soon bud!


-Steve

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Why does your 40 look so much bigger than the LV? Is it just the angle?

That thing looks so sweet. Great job. Has your wife driven it yet?

How's the caster? Did you shim the front end? I drove Lito's TLC LV and it was all over the road. They put OME springs on, but didn't do any caster correction. It had Dana axles under though.

Dan

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Matt,

Got the wiring figured out, called the place where i bought it at. Good people there to help us other people.

And whenever you get a chance i will take that carb stuff from you. I am going to try and get it running maybe this weekend or next week. Got a different carb and throttle cable i am going to try and hook up for the time being just to get it started.

Thanks Man, Darin

Will PM you with my info soon.

 

[buckroseau]

Got my rear wheel brake cylinders from CCOT today, after work got those installed with new pads. Sorry, no pics for some reason, just in the zone I guess.

Mechanic buddy and I got out the air bleeder and started to bleed the rear brakes.........nothing, fluid would not go down in the resevior. So, he's thinking something is not allowing the air to go through. So we pull a few lines and determine it is the proportioning valve below the M/C bolted to the brake booster, at least that's what we think it is.

So anyway, we take that of and pull it apart. It is pretty rusted up in there, take it apart with all the springs and stuff and clean it out. My friend is think the seal in there (see pics) is toast, he thinks it is streched out and isn't going to work....I kinda agree with him. We put everything back together, but without that seal. We think we know it isn't going to work correctly, but we still thought there would be brakes?

We were able to bleed out the rear cylinders now, but even with the rear pads adjusted correctly it just will not get any pedal pressure. Were able to pump up pressure, but other than that it goes right to the floor. So were obviously thinking that seal and valve are important.....but we still thought there would be pedal pressure, just out of proportion from front to rear.

Anyone have any experience with this on 79? Last pic is of my 77 FJ40, same thing.

Thanks, Matt

 

[treerootCO]

Found this in a search in an old thread I started
toddster - The residual valve is located in the MC. The one under the MC may be a metering/proportioning valve. The residual valve is supposed to keep 10lb of pressure going to the rear drum brakes...

If you have to pump up the brakes, the pads aren't adjusted, there is air in the lines, or the residual valve in the MC is not working or missing. Why the metering/proportioning valve is even there I don't know. Now that you have fluid going through it, you could probably put those seals back in and it would be fine.

Make sure this wasn't removed ---> http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/residvalve.php

 

[buckroseau]

Found this in a search in an old thread I started
toddster - The residual valve is located in the MC. The one under the MC may be a metering/proportioning valve. The residual valve is supposed to keep 10lb of pressure going to the rear drum brakes...

If you have to pump up the brakes, the pads aren't adjusted, there is air in the lines, or the residual valve in the MC is not working or missing. Why the metering/proportioning valve is even there I don't know. Now that you have fluid going through it, you could probably put those seals back in and it would be fine.

Make sure this wasn't removed ---> http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/residvalve.php

Hi Mike,

The rear pads are ajusted, we know that. Air in the lines, anythings possible, but I think were going to have to rule that out.

I wish I would have gotten a better look at the guts of that valve. I was holding my thumb over the brake line so not to drip brake fluid over the inner fender wells and peel paint. While my mechanic buddy was going through that valve. He tried pushing air through it with the air hose and it was solid, so he took it apart. I know he thinks that seal in the pics is to big, at least that's what he thinks.

Question, in that tech thread, why did they remove the guts of that stuff, purpose?

On another note, thanks for the info and thanks for hosting those pics

Matt

 

[treerootCO]

it was removed for a rear disc brake conversion. Disc brakes would stay locked up if there was a 10lb residual valve in place. Drum brakes need the valve so you don't have to pump the brakes up each time. The springs on drum brakes are enough to keep the pads away from the drum.

The pics are 1024x768 if you click them 640x480 just wasn't good enough for your LV

 

[buckroseau]

Incredible work Matt, that looks awesome.

Did you ever get the washer pump, did it work?

Hi Ken,

Yes I did and no it didn't, just wasn't the same one. No big deal, 66lv (Dave) PM'd me and offered up one that he had.

Got that one and is installed. Oh by the way........

Thansk Dave