Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread (3 Viewers)

[buckroseau]

Matt,

Is your wife driving this vehicle as much as you thought/hoped?

Dave

I think so.......she has mainly been driving it on weekends right now. When she goes out to get something on Saturday or Sunday, or when she goes to church she takes it. She has had several people looking at it when she parks and comes back to it. I know she said she has had to field some questions when she's up town and has it parked.


I think it's also like a new pair of shoes......you really try to avoid getting that first scuff or 2 on them. But once it has a couple scuffs or get a little dirty, you eventually forget about it. I think that's where we are with the lv now.....still that new pair of shoes

Matt

 

[CUMAPART]

That's awesome work Matt. I picked up an aluminum cab for my 45lwb for a song that was uninstalled. It included the tranny cover, instalation video, and all the hardware in an unopened bag. The original cab is probably in slightly better condition than yours. The rear corners aren't as bad but the floors are gone. Your builds give insight and inspiration to guys like me that have projects waiting on the side. I sometimes wonder if I should do the metal work on the original cab or save some time and go with the Al cab. The big dilema is like yours......THE FRAME. Mine is cracked in front of the passenger side rear spring hanger and the rust and scale is set in like yours. I do have some leads out there for a frame but nothing seems to be panning out. I haven't begun tear down yet, but you give great inspiration and ideas.....Keep up the good work! Mike

 

[Chef]

Matkins makes replacement frames. Not cheap, but available...you can spec it however you want it different from stock if you care to...coil buckets, etc.

 

[CUMAPART]

Chef, I think Matkins is kind of a last resort deal for me. I would like to find a stock frame that is in better condition than mine. If I can't, I would rather try to salvage what I have. I guess I have to weigh out what I have to put into mine versus the price of a new frame. Decisions...decisions Mike

 

[merbesfield]

I can't remember exactly where I got the fan? Not exactly sure what it as designed for....I know it is a 2 speed fan, belt driven and I believe 40". I also think my cost was around $300.

As far as the louvers, I got those through a company up here called Grainger. Wholesaler up here who deals mainly in heavy equipment. Set of aluminum louvers, I believe 40"?

Hope that kinda helps? Matt

it does, thanks, i keep forgetting about Grainger. where do you buy your spot weld cutters?

 

[buckroseau]

it does, thanks, i keep forgetting about Grainger. where do you buy your spot weld cutters?

I don't use spot weld cutters anymore. Just a little slow and they bust the teeth on the end to often.

I drill out the spot welds first with a 1/8" bit all the way through. Then I use a Dewalt drill bit I believe called, "pilot point". They have a little guide point in the center of the bit and then the dia. of the bit portion is flat. It drills flat to the surface. Once you get good at it, you can drill extremely fast through the first layer of metal and it usually pops once it's through. You kinda got to get a feel for it.

Hope that helps, Matt

 

[cruiserbrett]

Matt,
that is the exact same thing I do to get rid of spot welds, and it is 100 times better than the cheesy spot weld cutters. Get the 1/8" right on center and then I hit it with a 5/16" usually but from time to time a 3/8" bit. like matt says, it works very well, and you do get the feel for it. BTW, its ALOT more forgiving on early sheetmetal like the FJ40/45, but its a bit of a learing process on the thin sheetmetal of the FJ60/62...

Investing in two cordless drills makes this an easier process.

 

[bsevans]

Matt,
I came across this thread after page 97 had started. Like a great book, I could not put it down. It was a fascinating display of so many tool sets. You have incredible drive, the likes of which you do not come across in many people. Your commitment to a task is quite impressive in and of itself. Coupled with your organizational skills, your abilities with your hands, intelligence, and common sense. Your solutions and can do attitude are an inspiration to us all. You see opportunities where others see body rot. You really are a renaissance man. If it were not enough spending the better part of 24 hours over two days absorbing your birthing of that beauty, I found myself off ordering books , DVD and a sample pound of charcoal additive to do a sample concrete countertop. I’m just glad I’m retired and did not have to tell my boss why I was not coming in. I’m also glad your wife did not have any other honey do’s that I needed to explore. I would love to stop by when I’m in the area and spend some time with you and your wife. Both of you are clearly very fine folk.

You should really consider contacting DIY, Spike TV, TLC or the Discovery channel about documenting your FJ45 LWB. If it is anything like your FJ45LV it should have an hourly episode on TV so more people can watch and learn and pick their jaw up off the floor on a weekly basis.

There are a couple items on your FJ45LV I wanted to discuss.
I’ve looked at the photos on your post 2803 of the underside of your rear bumper. The part that concerns me is how you tie the end of the receiver tube to the frame. I do not think it is the strongest design. It will not aid the bumper very much under dynamic axial loading thru the receiver tube. The bar attached at each end will have too much flex under axial loading and will also flex under vertical loading of the hitch ball. You can easily resolve this by taking a piece of structural B angle (3/8” thick) attaching it fully across the bottom of the C-channel that goes between the frame rails. Then you would bend a tab at each end of the angle to marry to the 3/8” plates that support the bumper. This would replace the bar you have going across now. This change would add dramatic strength to your receiver tube from both axial loads and torque loads and reduce the stresses on the bumper by decreasing the flex at the receiver tube/bumper weld.

The second has to do with two statements you made. You said that you did not want to put the headrest on the ’79 seats in order to maintain that old school look. You also said that one aspect of the rear bumper’s strength was greater protection for your wife. What offers the most protection for a front passenger in a rear end collision are crumple zones to reduce the g force transmitted through the bodies of the front passengers. Something Volvo is famous for. Putting a very rigid rear bumper on the FJ45LV has a major draw back. Since it is attached hard to the frame, when a drunk slams into the rear of the vehicle, the kinetic energy is dramatically transferred through the frame and body of the vehicle. This was a common occurrence with older bumper designs. Couple that with no headrest or high back bucket seats and you have the potential for sever injury to the neck of the driver and front passenger. The federal government mandated energy absorbing bumpers and front headrest/high back seats to reduce injuries to passengers. I know that some will say – but they won't be on the rear seat. My answer is that there is always a driver. Matt, please put both front headrests on.

 

[buckroseau]

Matt,
I came across this thread after page 97 had started. Like a great book, I could not put it down. It was a fascinating display of so many tool sets. You have incredible drive, the likes of which you do not come across in many people. Your commitment to a task is quite impressive in and of itself. Coupled with your organizational skills, your abilities with your hands, intelligence, and common sense. Your solutions and can do attitude are an inspiration to us all. You see opportunities where others see body rot. You really are a renaissance man. If it were not enough spending the better part of 24 hours over two days absorbing your birthing of that beauty, I found myself off ordering books , DVD and a sample pound of charcoal additive to do a sample concrete countertop. I’m just glad I’m retired and did not have to tell my boss why I was not coming in. I’m also glad your wife did not have any other honey do’s that I needed to explore. I would love to stop by when I’m in the area and spend some time with you and your wife. Both of you are clearly very fine folk.

You should really consider contacting DIY, Spike TV, TLC or the Discovery channel about documenting your FJ45 LWB. If it is anything like your FJ45LV it should have an hourly episode on TV so more people can watch and learn and pick their jaw up off the floor on a weekly basis.

There are a couple items on your FJ45LV I wanted to discuss.
I’ve looked at the photos on your post 2803 of the underside of your rear bumper. The part that concerns me is how you tie the end of the receiver tube to the frame. I do not think it is the strongest design. It will not aid the bumper very much under dynamic axial loading thru the receiver tube. The bar attached at each end will have too much flex under axial loading and will also flex under vertical loading of the hitch ball. You can easily resolve this by taking a piece of structural B angle (3/8” thick) attaching it fully across the bottom of the C-channel that goes between the frame rails. Then you would bend a tab at each end of the angle to marry to the 3/8” plates that support the bumper. This would replace the bar you have going across now. This change would add dramatic strength to your receiver tube from both axial loads and torque loads and reduce the stresses on the bumper by decreasing the flex at the receiver tube/bumper weld.

The second has to do with two statements you made. You said that you did not want to put the headrest on the ’79 seats in order to maintain that old school look. You also said that one aspect of the rear bumper’s strength was greater protection for your wife. What offers the most protection for a front passenger in a rear end collision are crumple zones to reduce the g force transmitted through the bodies of the front passengers. Something Volvo is famous for. Putting a very rigid rear bumper on the FJ45LV has a major draw back. Since it is attached hard to the frame, when a drunk slams into the rear of the vehicle, the kinetic energy is dramatically transferred through the frame and body of the vehicle. This was a common occurrence with older bumper designs. Couple that with no headrest or high back bucket seats and you have the potential for sever injury to the neck of the driver and front passenger. The federal government mandated energy absorbing bumpers and front headrest/high back seats to reduce injuries to passengers. I know that some will say – but they won't be on the rear seat. My answer is that there is always a driver. Matt, please put both front headrests on.

hmm.......that's a lot there.....where to start?

First of all, thanks for the compliments. I don't think I deserved all that, but still nice to hear good things from fellow cruiser heads. Always said, I'm just your average goober welding and pounding metal out in the shop. Just as fun for me to share what I do with others and also gleen a little info of a few of you as well In any event, thanks again And if your ever up this way, let me know....more than welcome to stop by

As far as a TV show...I think you guys all need to call, write and email those outfits. Who knows, maybe one of them will get on board?? I only have a few demands: 1st - I have 2 friends that have to be on the show as well. I probably wouldn't be that entertaining.....I tend to get in the zone and just try to get sh-t done. I may be the guy to yell, swear or throw somthing if things aren't getting done, but that might be about it. The other guys are also very talented and much more animated and characters than me. Both are extremely talented also. 2nd - I want guests on the show, and not fancy boy people either. Viewers that can email, call or write in and request to be on. Just average weekend warriors that can come on for an episode and fawk up just like me an everyone else. 3rd - No super fancy Nascar shops....in fact I think the show should be confined to a double wide garage. And all tools used on the show must be able to be ordered out of harbor freight or Northern tool (or some other fly by night outfit like that). I want anyone watching to know that they could fab some junk up also. So......there are my demands....I'm sure the discovery channel will be calling me tomorrow ;p

On the other 2 topics I'll be quick, since your obviously smarter than me

I respectfully disagree on the bumper. I think I understand your description correctly and I believe it's overkill. I've looked at many class III hitches and this has more mass than most and more attachment points. I'm not an engineer, but I don't see it failing in my life time.

On the headrests......I agree 100%. Everything you said was completely accurate and makes total sense. I can't get them in there tomorrow, but I will plan on making it happen in the near future.


Thanks again and hope to see ya soon

Matt

 

[Mikesta]

Matt,

Thread Hijack:
I found this in the Harbor Frieght flyer I get for $799. I know we had talked about these way back on page 10 or so... Do you have one of these and is this what you used? Would your recommend it? I ask because thats $200 off the retail price and I may have to get it if it comes recommended

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41162

 

[buckroseau]

Matt,

Thread Hijack:
I found this in the Harbor Frieght flyer I get for $799. I know we had talked about these way back on page 10 or so... Do you have one of these and is this what you used? Would your recommend it? I ask because thats $200 off the retail price and I may have to get it if it comes recommended

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41162

That is the one I have. Mine has made a lot of parts



Matt

 

[merbesfield]

That is the one I have. Mine has made a lot of parts



Matt

That is the one I have as well. That is their normal dicount price. It took a long time to get mine delivered so don't expect it in a week. Unless that was a fluke, which I doubt.

Matt, can you show us or direct us to where and how you bent 45 degree angles for the floor pans with this contraption?

 

[AZkick-n40]

Matt,

Aren't you using thicker metal than 20 gauge?

Isn't that the thickest it would go based on the ad?

I'd like to buy one as well and don't want to buy the wrong thing.

Brian

 

[buckroseau]

That is the one I have as well. That is their normal dicount price. It took a long time to get mine delivered so don't expect it in a week. Unless that was a fluke, which I doubt.

Matt, can you show us or direct us to where and how you bent 45 degree angles for the floor pans with this contraption?

As far as the location of the bends, I measured in between every angle and bent it on that mark.

As far as the 45 degree bend. I just looked from the end as I was making the bend. You can just watch as your bending it, as long as you know what 45 degree angle looks like. If you off a degree or 2 that's ok. Once it's out and your fitting the part you can tweek it with your hand.

Hope that helps, Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Matt,

Aren't you using thicker metal than 20 gauge?

Isn't that the thickest it would go based on the ad?

I'd like to buy one as well and don't want to buy the wrong thing.

Brian

I use mostly 20 gauge for everything. It's a couple thousands thinner than the 18, but seems to work very well.

I have sheared 18 in mine, but 20 works like a charm in there.

Matt

 

[merbesfield]

As far as the location of the bends, I measured in between every angle and bent it on that mark.

As far as the 45 degree bend. I just looked from the end as I was making the bend. You can just watch as your bending it, as long as you know what 45 degree angle looks like. If you off a degree or 2 that's ok. Once it's out and your fitting the part you can tweek it with your hand.

Hope that helps, Matt

yes, but did you figure a way to make the brake do what i would call a hard bend at that angle? when i try to bend at the 45 degrees or close to it, the bend is not sharp and creased like when you come all the way down on it for a 90 plus bend. it just sort of gives a rolled bend which does not look like the factory bends on the floor. does this make sense the way i am describing it. that is why i thought there was a way to set a hard 45 degree brake? what am i missing?

 

[buckroseau]

yes, but did you figure a way to make the brake do what i would call a hard bend at that angle? when i try to bend at the 45 degrees or close to it, the bend is not sharp and creased like when you come all the way down on it for a 90 plus bend. it just sort of gives a rolled bend which does not look like the factory bends on the floor. does this make sense the way i am describing it. that is why i thought there was a way to set a hard 45 degree brake? what am i missing?

If your trying to make the floor bends, it can do it. You've seen the pics in this thread, those were done with that machine.

The brake can bend within about 3/8" to 7/16" of a bend next to it. I believe the floor pan bends are about 7/16" apart at those 45's.

Does that make sense?

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

I just went out in the shop and bent this up. Bends are 3/8" apart exactly.

Yes, it is hard to get tight, crisp bends that close together. I think that is what you are having problems with right?

Matt

 

[merbesfield]

If your trying to make the floor bends, it can do it. You've seen the pics in this thread, those were done with that machine.

The brake can bend within about 3/8" to 7/16" of a bend next to it. I believe the floor pan bends are about 7/16" apart at those 45's.

Does that make sense?

Matt

yes no problem with the distance between bends, i am talking about the actual bend and how it is not creasing at the bend, more like rolling it.

 

[merbesfield]

I just went out in the shop and bent this up. Bends are 3/8" apart exactly.

Yes, it is hard to get tight, crisp bends that close together. I think that is what you are having problems with right?

Matt

exactly, but that is what my machine does so i guess that is normal. i just thought they would be more creased bc i am used to seeing 90's and locking seam bends. i will use this picture to bend some tomorrow and compare mine to yours, but i think they will look like that. so do you just mark them out with a sharpie or something and go to bending?