Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

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not sure what to tell you about towing with the waggy. the only towing i ever did with mine was going to SNt which is about a 250 mile trip. i towed a trailer with three dirt bikes down there and had no problems at all, but that was maybe 2000lbs at best on soa stock springs.
 
Cool pics. I love the roadster burnout!

I think that 50-100 lb on the tongue was a bit light for the amount of towed weight.
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10% of the towed weight is the recommended tongue weight. With that much weight I would also use a weight distributing hitch with an anti-sway device and/or some way to level the load. Several companies make kits to install air bags on leaf sprung vehicles. Airing it up raises the rear when towing but does not interfer with daily driving when aired down. I have Air-Lift air bag springs on my Pathfinder.
 
orangefj45 said:
not sure what to tell you about towing with the waggy. the only towing i ever did with mine was going to SNt which is about a 250 mile trip. i towed a trailer with three dirt bikes down there and had no problems at all, but that was maybe 2000lbs at best on soa stock springs.


I pulled those jet skis's a month or so ago and it was absolutely perfect. But, that was only about 1000lbs?

I guess I thought it would do a little better, still thinking the springs are just to soft?

Thanks, Matt
 
Full night this evening on the lv, had an appointment with the wheel dyno guy. Spent a little over 3 hours up there this evening, just wanted to make sure I had the carb and motor set up right.....left with a little better running vehicle.

He started off testing the vacumm on the carb, did a little tweaking on some screws and got it where he wanted it. Then he moved onto the timing, he crawled underneath and painted some marks on the balancer. Had a fairly fancy timing light, he was all over the place with specific RPM's, while he had me ever so slightly turning the distributor. When he was all done I had never heard it idle that nice.

Then we got to the good stuff, running the lv on the dyno:) . He stood over on the passenger side next to the monitor with this remote in his hand telling me what to do. We had everything set up for testing at 60 mph, going for maxium usage at that speed. I could type a lot about the next 2 hours, but it mostly consisted of him resetting the computer and having me doing dyno run after run and changing the carb set up. He varied some of the runs, applying certain amounts of load and brake during the runs and how fast or slow I brought the lv upto speed.

He ended up changing the metering rods twice during the runs, but the drive home proved worth while. I noticed that the temp gauge was noticeably less. And since I don't have all my rubber grommets in the firewall yet I was noticing the heat before and after coming through the firewall.... considerably less now. The engine was fairly quiet before....but now it seemed a bit less? Not sure how that works, but just seemed like it was running a lot smoother. One spec. worth mentioning I guess is mph and rpm. RPM was 1700 at 60mph....nice and low on the rpm I thought.

Anyway, few pics of this evenings fun.

Matt
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I never thought I would see a 45LV on a Dyno:beer:
 
Bet it was the first time the dyno guy had seen it too. The rest of the world for that matter.
 
I agree with the 10% of towed weight on the tongue. I've experienced too little tongue weight several times and it results in the tail wagging the dog. That was in 3/4 ton pickups. Not a pleasant experience.
 
buckroseau said:
Got about 8 hours in on the lv today, didn't try to hard, kinda all over the place today.

Got the lv out of the both and loaded up some more parts for paint and clear. Painted a bunch of wiper parts, parking brake parts and other misc. dash brackets black. Also cleared the steel steering column. Wife liked the color and the way it looked so much she wanted it left that way, so it got cleared.

Also took apart the dash and glove box door. I wasn't going to paint the speed head, but wanted to make sure it matched the glove box door so they both got fresh silver single stage ureathane.

Since I had the speedo apart I took the odometer apart. I'm sure this is probably illegal or something, but I thought it was appropriate ;)

Started putting stuff back in the dash and firewall, pics should say it all. Hopefully it paint is dry tomorrow, more stuff should be back in, if not all.

Matt

Matt,

Your skillz are mad! This build thread is a-maz-ing!!!

I apologize in advance if I overlooked this detail, but I wonder what paint code you used for the glove box door? I have been looking for a current "live" code to order up for all the pieces Toyota painted T1434...

Edit - I found your above post on p. 58
 
BTT this thread cannot stay on page 2 :D

Matt, your energy and patience is incredible, and a great encouragement for many resto "in-progress" or wanabees. You just showed motivation and dedication -which any of us can have- are the keys. Great job.

If you don't mind me asking, how big is your paint booth, is it vented and heated ? If so : how ; if not : have you found it to be a problem ?
I'm in the middle of building some painting/blasting areas in my shop right now and could use some input ;)
 
denis said:
BTT this thread cannot stay on page 2 :D

Matt, your energy and patience is incredible, and a great encouragement for many resto "in-progress" or wanabees. You just showed motivation and dedication -which any of us can have- are the keys. Great job.

If you don't mind me asking, how big is your paint booth, is it vented and heated ? If so : how ; if not : have you found it to be a problem ?
I'm in the middle of building some painting/blasting areas in my shop right now and could use some input ;)


My paint booth is approx. 26' long x 16' wide and 9' high.

It is vented by a 40" belt driven 2 stage fan on the north side with a set of 40" aluminum louvers on the outside. On high I believe it draws approx. 6700 cfm, but don't quote me on that? On the other end on each side of the door I have approx. 24 sqare feet of intake air (filtered of course) to draw from.

Heating, using 4 - 8ft electric base board heaters, 2 on each side. Running from my main panel in the shed off a 50 amp 2 pole breaker to the booth with 6/3 wire. On the outside of the booth I have another box that the 6/3 wire runs into with 2 - 20 amp 2 pole breakers. Each of those breaker feeds 2 heaters through a set of relays that are set up with an adjustable thermostat on the outside of the booth next to the panel, with a remote probe that goes through the wall into the inside of the booth. Reason for this is that I did not want the relays inside the box clicking and turning on and off inside the booth. Not that the overspray would ignite and explode..............just never know :rolleyes:

Problem? No, my booth works extremely well, even in the winter time. I sized the fan to pull air fast, but not so fast that it could suck the heat out of the booth within 10 seconds. The heaters are overkill for such a small area, but it allows it to recover extremely quickly and almost maintain a temp. even when the fan is running. If I spray an entire vehicle, it might get a tad hazy in there when I'm spraying gallons, but it clears out within 20 to 30 seconds as soon as I stop. If I'm spraying a full booth full of parts, usually no haze or overspray.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
merbesfield said:
where did you buy the parts such as the fan and the louvers? i am in the process of building our booth as well, or should i say designing it.


I can't remember exactly where I got the fan? Not exactly sure what it as designed for....I know it is a 2 speed fan, belt driven and I believe 40". I also think my cost was around $300.

As far as the louvers, I got those through a company up here called Grainger. Wholesaler up here who deals mainly in heavy equipment. Set of aluminum louvers, I believe 40"?

Hope that kinda helps? Matt
 

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