1963 FJ40....restoration but maybe modification build....
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c2dfj45
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Few more pics today....still looking around at the truck to see what is what. When I look at the glove box, it looks like Nebula Green...when I look at the inner fenders, they're more Judson Green. Putting together a list of things that I'm going to need for it too. Not sure when they'll actually make their way on to the truck but I'd rather start looking now...
Considering it's bday, I'dventure judson
My little Annie is Judson. It's a great color
c2dfj45
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I've been referring back to your build thread on Annie. Very cool truck.
Has anyone found the coral vinyl material available from a fabric supply place? I have good upholstery guys that we use for our other cars, I figure they can do some covers for me. I'm sure somebody makes some for it....maybe that would be cheaper.
Has anyone found the coral vinyl material available from a fabric supply place? I have good upholstery guys that we use for our other cars, I figure they can do some covers for me. I'm sure somebody makes some for it....maybe that would be cheaper.
Probably way too much information here. But, oh well. Take what you can use and disregard the rest.
Upholstery:
1. Specter Off Road currently sells covers. Specter's covers have pleats. Pleats were never correct for a 1962 FJ40.
2. You are blessed with the original material in hand. Use it! Go in person with an unblemished/unfaded piece of that material and match both the color AND texture the best you can with a local supplier. That is the only way to ensure you will get the best possible matches (assuming you want the best possible matches and not just something that is, whatever). Otherwise you will be buying someone else's determination of the "correct" shade of coral. Whether in factory literature or in modern restorations the lighting or something always makes the corals look slightly different from one another. Some more orange, some more brown. You have the material in hand to make that determination for yourself.
3. In choosing the foam there is a compromise to be made between thicknesses that either provide the maximum comfort or thicknesses that allow the seats to fold as flat as they did from the factory (this applies to both the front seats and the jump seats). Yes, it's a compromise. Unless of course you are going back with the original "horse hair," in which case . . . ?
4. The driver side seat bottom foam must be thicker than the passenger side seat bottom foam because of the lower frame height variances. Measure and order accordingly.
5. Cost. You probably know this better than most. In terms of the quality of the work you generally get what you pay for, right? I had a guy in Carlsbad, CA recommended by a friend do the fronts on my '61 four-years ago. Labor quote was originally $250 but annoyingly crept higher in the end. Materials cost I don't remember (bought enough marine grade vinyl at the time to do the jump seats as well to avoid future "dye lot" differences). To this day I am reasonably happy with the vinyl I chose using a swatch of the original vinyl to match and the compromise I made in the thicknesses of the foam. That guy's workmanship and follow-through, though? Not so great. The point is, if you want high quality work, go with the guy you know.
Here are the fronts on my '61. Never mind the fact that the driver side seat back (an early FJ25 back and incorrect for 1961) is significantly lower than the passenger side seat back. I don't even want to talk about that!
Good luck.
Upholstery:
1. Specter Off Road currently sells covers. Specter's covers have pleats. Pleats were never correct for a 1962 FJ40.
2. You are blessed with the original material in hand. Use it! Go in person with an unblemished/unfaded piece of that material and match both the color AND texture the best you can with a local supplier. That is the only way to ensure you will get the best possible matches (assuming you want the best possible matches and not just something that is, whatever). Otherwise you will be buying someone else's determination of the "correct" shade of coral. Whether in factory literature or in modern restorations the lighting or something always makes the corals look slightly different from one another. Some more orange, some more brown. You have the material in hand to make that determination for yourself.
3. In choosing the foam there is a compromise to be made between thicknesses that either provide the maximum comfort or thicknesses that allow the seats to fold as flat as they did from the factory (this applies to both the front seats and the jump seats). Yes, it's a compromise. Unless of course you are going back with the original "horse hair," in which case . . . ?
4. The driver side seat bottom foam must be thicker than the passenger side seat bottom foam because of the lower frame height variances. Measure and order accordingly.
5. Cost. You probably know this better than most. In terms of the quality of the work you generally get what you pay for, right? I had a guy in Carlsbad, CA recommended by a friend do the fronts on my '61 four-years ago. Labor quote was originally $250 but annoyingly crept higher in the end. Materials cost I don't remember (bought enough marine grade vinyl at the time to do the jump seats as well to avoid future "dye lot" differences). To this day I am reasonably happy with the vinyl I chose using a swatch of the original vinyl to match and the compromise I made in the thicknesses of the foam. That guy's workmanship and follow-through, though? Not so great. The point is, if you want high quality work, go with the guy you know.
Here are the fronts on my '61. Never mind the fact that the driver side seat back (an early FJ25 back and incorrect for 1961) is significantly lower than the passenger side seat back. I don't even want to talk about that!
Good luck.
I do not suggest going with foam seat pads. Even the "hi density" gives too much and you sink, running plywood on the springs helps, but not enough. I need to replace my seats with the correct "horse hair" material
HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
When did pleats start?
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I don't know.
HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
To answer my own question, in the 2014 "FJ25 Red Seat Vinyl Match" thread, Splangy thought ribbing and the grey color started together in 1968.
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
That mostly matches my research as well. Most of the period pictures I’ve seen that were well confirmed to be of ‘64s have had pleats. I’m convinced enough that I will use pleated in mine.
Is your FJ40 a 1964?
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
Mine? Yes, an early ‘64 FST.
Wonder what Toyota had in mind, then, when they stamped that "3" into the vin on your frame as they had done to indicate the year model of Land Cruisers for at least the previous five years---"8-FJ25, 9-Fj25, 0-FJ25, 1-FJ40, 2-FJ40---consecutively?
You think when Toyota got to yours that everything changed, and that "3-FJ40" really meant "4-FJ40?"
oregon fj
Serial rescuer of old vehicles
No. I thought you had participated in some of the other threads where this has been discussed lately, but I’ll try to outline it again for you.
The leading number on the early VIN as stamped on the frame and the data plate under the hood indicated the calendar year of build. In my truck’s case that was a 3 for 1963. (Later date code tracking on mine has indicated a true build date in September or early October of 1963.)
The model year is separate, and does not always match exactly to calendar years, at least not for trucks sold in the US. Again in my truck’s case, the physical evidence (offset rear diff, square FST door openings, etc.) indicate a model year of 1964.
Indeed, this is also indicated on my truck by the fact that Toyota stamped the model year on the data plate as 1964, despite the same plate showing the VIN with a leading 3. (See picture below.)
I hope this clears things up for you somewhat, @Old Red .
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HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
This is my most favorite rig on Mud. I like all the early 4O's. If you change you priorities, let me know. I am on my first one, never considered a second, but see how these things seduce you. I love patina.
