150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman (1 Viewer)

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Cool, did you do the brushes before installing.

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra
 
Cool, did you do the brushes before installing.

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra

Yep - that should be a given for anybody doing this job. $20 and 5 minutes when it's out of the vehicle. PITA if you have to go in to do it later.

Any suggestions for sources of a boot to cover the terminal on the alternator? It's un pretty close proximity to stuff down there. May try to salvage the one that was on the pigtail that came with the junkyard tundra alternator.
 
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Yep - that should be a given for anybody doing this job. $20 and 5 minutes when it's out of the vehicle. PITA if you have to go in to do it later.

Any suggestions for sources of a boot to cover the terminal on the alternator? It's un pretty close proximity to stuff down there. May try to salvage the one that was on the pigtail that came with the junkyard tundra alternator.

I would try to use the tundra one.. not sure where to source one..
 
Finally finished my install. No pics to speak of, but everything went in as planned. Had to re-tension the belts as they were squealing on start-up, though. Removed the idler pulley, as it really was not being touched. Thanks Photoman and all who have contributed to this and the original thread. Nice to know that I have more than an ample supply of power for my dual batteries, and any heavy loads.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Finally finished my install. No pics to speak of, but everything went in as planned. Had to re-tension the belts as they were squealing on start-up, though. Removed the idler pulley, as it really was not being touched. Thanks Photoman and all who have contributed to this and the original thread. Nice to know that I have more than an ample supply of power for my dual batteries, and any heavy loads.

:cheers:

Steve

You mention of this "squealing" on start up? I also did this upgrade and from time to time, I find my cruiser squealing for a second when starting up. Is that because of my belts? Are they too tight or loose?
 
My belts were too loose.

When I went for my R134A recharge on Monday, I asked the mechanic to take a look. I tightened them up one turn of the screw at a time (with the engine off), and kept doing so until they stopped squealing on startup. My belts are 18 months old, and did not squeal before the change-out. The amount of play now is just about 1/2 with a decent amount of hand-pressure to deflect. It is one of those feels-right things, as the FSM calls for a fancy belt tension gauge that I do not have.

:cheers:

Steve
 
Very good information
thanks

Somebody can confirm if the right part number for the 150 AMP brush is 27370-5846.

thanks again
 
6ga is definitely overkill and 1/0 is ridiculous crazy.

My 150 A TIG torch that runs 150A continuously is 4ga and the cables on my 300 amp stick welder are 1 ga.

What people don't get is that a 150 amp alternator doesn't put out 150 amps unless it needs to, which is almost never. Even if it does, it doesn't put out that current for long. That is why Toyota uses an 8 ga wire for this alternator. The mommas of the Toyota engineers didn't raise no fools.
 
Does anyone know if Photoman is still making these brackets? I have PM'd him twice as well as e-mailed and got no answer.:(
 
I suspect he is just on Christmas vacation. Give him a while to respond.
 
Thanks, I was hoping he was still on the forum:cheers:
 
Sorry for any inconvenience I caused anyone. I was away and did not realize I had email problems. Hopefully things are straightened out.

Bill
 
Bill, do you make a mount for a bigger alt for the night 3FE? :)
 
Bill, do you make a mount for a bigger alt for the night 3FE? :)

No. I started to make one for my 1992 for this larger Toyota alternator. I quit when I figured the top cast motor mount would have to be replaced to get a safer distance from the exhaust. This is where the stock alternator bolts to. It probably could be done with the alternator being close to the exhaust but I'm not sure how the heat would affect it. It might be OK, or not.
 
Bill's brackets are the bees knees, I did mine a few years ago without the pulley, now that I've got a bearing in the alt squeaking I ordered replacements and am going to do the pulley now since it will be out and apart.

The craftsmanship is incredible, I was seriously in awe when saw the bracket, now I can't wait to see the pulley!
 
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No. I started to make one for my 1992 for this larger Toyota alternator. I quit when I figured the top cast motor mount would have to be replaced to get a safer distance from the exhaust. This is where the stock alternator bolts to. It probably could be done with the alternator being close to the exhaust but I'm not sure how the heat would affect it. It might be OK, or not.

Well, I need you to figure this s*** out man! Haha.

I've gutted my EGR, VSV, Air pump, and rat wheel thingy. So I have plenty Of room on that side. I'm putting in a second battery and Renogy 100 watt fixed solar panel. Maybe I don't even need to do it...

Really, the only issue I have right now with power is the dimming of my lights when idle goes down. Would upgrading the wiring handle this?
 
Well, I need you to figure this s*** out man! Haha.

I've gutted my EGR, VSV, Air pump, and rat wheel thingy. So I have plenty Of room on that side. I'm putting in a second battery and Renogy 100 watt fixed solar panel. Maybe I don't even need to do it...

Really, the only issue I have right now with power is the dimming of my lights when idle goes down. Would upgrading the wiring handle this?

Heavier wire wouldn't help that, only more amps would!
 

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