150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman (1 Viewer)

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BenMara said:
Any word to fix this problem?

Ben,

2 Options on the table are in posts #12 - 15

I will connect the original wires right before the fuse on my upgraded lead instead of using the lug option. Cleaner install.

Stu
 
AHhh didnt see those Post thank you Stu

Yea i have some amp hungry items planed to install in the cruiser and this one thing has been stoping me
 
Ben

The Photoman upgrade 150Amp w smaller pulley + Upgraded Leads :- Alt to Bat lead, Starter, Grounds etc. + Dual battery would be ideal for High Amp Draw situations.. GL with your projects
 
i have all the parts minus the upgraded leads, thats y i asked about the lead to Alt, yea lovein the amp hungry ham radio stuff
 
Easy, just switch to a more reasonably sized wire.:hillbilly: What size was the wire on the Sequoia that the alt came out of? The run to the battery is only 2-3', so 10G would likely work, 8G would be better, 6G overkill?

Just picked up my 150A alternator today from LKQ. $60 plus core. They listed it as a 130A version, but the PN actually is the 150!

The wire that originally was on this one was a 2 AWG. Much beefier than the 80 series. Will be ordering new brushes and having tested before installing. Still need to sort out my wiring setup and torque-down the new pulley.

:cheers:

Steve
 
CycloSteve said:
Just picked up my 150A alternator today from LKQ. $60 plus core. They listed it as a 130A version, but the PN actually is the 150!

The wire that originally was on this one was a 2 AWG. Much beefier than the 80 series. Will be ordering new brushes and having tested before installing. Still need to sort out my wiring setup and torque-down the new pulley.

:cheers:

Steve

Steve

You made out like a bandit. Most places charge more for the 150amp. I tested mine before i did the brush which are pretty inexpensive from Beno or Cdan.

Make sure to tap the 2 screw holding the brush and used a good bit. One of mine was easy the 2nd one started to strip on me.

I am going re-install my upgraded lead this weekend

GL
Stu

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra
 
Anyone know how much a new 150 amp alt is orderd from CDan or Beno? Just curious is all.

Jrob -they have reman units if memory serve me corrct in the $3-400 range.

Sure one of the Gurus will chime in.. I hope :clap:
 
Sorry misunderstood. I am also going with 200 amps. I am still little concerned about blowing fuses with extra juice though but I guess I will find out...
 
Sorry misunderstood. I am also going with 200 amps. I am still little concerned about blowing fuses with extra juice though but I guess I will find out...

You should be fine, just keep the original Fusible links in place.. A system will only draw what it needs...:steer:
 
Sorry misunderstood. I am also going with 200 amps. I am still little concerned about blowing fuses with extra juice though but I guess I will find out...

The higher capacity alternator is still "governed" by the internal voltage regulator. No worries on blowing fuses because the fused circuits won't draw any more current than they did before.
 
Ok, here's a stupid question ...

How do you get the new alternator down into position?? I don't mean into the bracket ... but down into rough position. My battery tray, upper radiator hose and PS reservoir are all removed. But I can't find a way to fit it between the big coolant pipe, fan shroud and brake lines. I've removed the bolts from the brake line brackets as well.

Does that coolant pipe have to come off? That's the only way I can see to get it in. It's removed in Photoman's tip-in video. If so, what kind of gasket is behind it and do I have to source a new one to put it back together?
 
Last edited:
Ok, here's a stupid question ...

How do you get the new alternator down into position?? I don't mean into the bracket ... but down into rough position. My battery tray, upper radiator hose and PS reservoir are all removed. But I can't find a way to fit it between the big coolant pipe, fan shroud and brake lines. I've removed the bolts from the brake line brackets as well.

Does that coolant pipe have to come off? That's the only way I can see to get it in. It's removed in Photoman's tip-in video. If so, what kind of gasket is behind it and do I have to source a new one to put it back together?

Nevermind - took a break and got something to eat. Took another look and found that if you turn the alt around so that the pulley is toward the rear you can fit it in under the pipe. Then you can rotate it back around once it's in place.
 
Eric

Sorry I didn't see this before now. Glad you got it sorted out.

Don't know if are have completed the job yet so here is a belt tip: slip the belts on to the pulley before you slide the Alternator into place. Once bolted up, adjustment becomes a breeze.

GL with your project

Stu

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra
 
Otamiway said:
Eric

Sorry I didn't see this before now. Glad you got it sorted out.

Don't know if are have completed the job yet so here is a belt tip: slip the belts on to the pulley before you slide the Alternator into place. Once bolted up, adjustment becomes a breeze.

GL with your project

Stu

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra

Thanks - the belts were actually no problem at all using the tip-in technique. Just have to make up the new alternator to battery cable now.
 
Good to hear. Did you replace yours with a stocker or an upgrade (130-150amp)?

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra
 
Good to hear. Did you replace yours with a stocker or an upgrade (130-150amp)?

Sent from my DROID3 using IH8MUD. typos extra

130A Tundra
 

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