150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman

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LS1FJ40 said:
...
Really, the only issue I have right now with power is the dimming of my lights when idle goes down. Would upgrading the wiring handle this?
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Smaller pulley and corresponding belt on the stock 3FE alternator would spin it faster at idle, thus producing more amps at idle (same result as Photoman's pulley for the Sequoia/Tundra alt.) But, where you source parts for that one is not something I can answer...:meh:
 
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bryson said:
Smaller pulley and corresponding belt on the stock 3FE alternator would spin it faster at idle, thus producing more amps at idle (same result as Photoman's pulley for the Sequoia/Tundra alt.) But, where you source parts for that one is not something I can answer...:meh:
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Hmmmm. This is worth looking in to. Certainly smaller pulleys are available.
 
Part # is about half way down on the first page. Didn't think anyone was making the bracket any longer???? Didn't read the whole thread, sorry in advance if I missed somethin....
 
1973Guppie said:
does anyone have the stock toyota part # for the sequoia alt that will work with this conversion. I want to eventually swap out my parts store rebuilt one for toyota new.
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Look for ones out of a Sequoia 03 to 07 they can be found in Tundras as well if you want the 130A, good idea to do the brush while you have it out and maybe the bearings if it has over 100K on it.
number is 27060 0F050 is the 150A 0F040 is the 130A same exact housing though.

I just bought a set of these because I didn't do the pulley the first time but I did do the brushes, since I'm going to have to pull it to do the pulley I figured it was a good idea to do the bearings too
KOYO ELECTIC MOTOR QUALITY ALTERNATOR BEARING 15X35X13 MADE IN JAPAN

Koyo 15X35X13


Bill. I got my pulley this week, as usual everything is top notch, thank you sir!
 
Hello @Otamiway

I just installed this excellent product from @Photoman he was super help full with all my questions and was a perfect fit.

I have a question that maybe som one can answer me.

Installed is the 150Amp alternator from a Sequoa, I have a dual battery system (2 yellow top Optima) controle by a Bluesea AL-MRC (highly recommended). I also have a Ironman dual battery display that shows me the volts for the batteries, its a simple one so its just lights with a specific voltage under each one.

Here goes my question. With the stock alternator the voltage was always over 14.1 volts, with normal driving and night driving with my lights on, it rearley went under 14.1 volts during normal car use.

Now with the 150Amp alternator when i start the car its over 14.1 Volt and then after a couple of minutes of driving around (the car already warm and normal idle) not the voltage stays at 13.8 Volts, unless im cruising at about 3000RMP. but its mostly at 13.8Volt

Funny thing is during the first 3 min of the car when i turn it on, on idle (700RPM) it sits over 14.1 volt and then after that time at the same idle not it sits on 13.8Volt

I was reading that this Alternators have a voltage regulator that lets it give the voltage the batteries actually need, but it seams odd since the old one was just at full blast all the time, maybe its just a better technology because the symptom does seem like a switch changes from over 14.1 to 13.8 Volt.

Im just concerned that is not that when the Alternator gets warm it starts lacking in performance.

ALSO, If any one has any question on the install or want to see pics of the set up im more than happy to post them, I also put a 150amp relay on the instal for security and the car is supercharged to i can show how to fill everything in the tight space.
 
FZJohnny said:
Part # is about half way down on the first page. Didn't think anyone was making the bracket any longer???? Didn't read the whole thread, sorry in advance if I missed somethin....
Click to expand...


@Photoman Still makes them. I just installed my kit form him last week! Great products, well designed. Only problem I had was the stainless 8mmx1.25 tpi bolt for the adjuster block supplied in the kit, galled on me. So I swapped it out for a factory Flange head steel bolt. I used anti-seize on both!
 
LSDbrand said:
Hello @Otamiway

I just installed this excellent product from @Photoman he was super help full with all my questions and was a perfect fit.

I have a question that maybe som one can answer me.

Installed is the 150Amp alternator from a Sequoa, I have a dual battery system (2 yellow top Optima) controle by a Bluesea AL-MRC (highly recommended). I also have a Ironman dual battery display that shows me the volts for the batteries, its a simple one so its just lights with a specific voltage under each one.

Here goes my question. With the stock alternator the voltage was always over 14.1 volts, with normal driving and night driving with my lights on, it rearley went under 14.1 volts during normal car use.

Now with the 150Amp alternator when i start the car its over 14.1 Volt and then after a couple of minutes of driving around (the car already warm and normal idle) not the voltage stays at 13.8 Volts, unless im cruising at about 3000RMP. but its mostly at 13.8Volt

Funny thing is during the first 3 min of the car when i turn it on, on idle (700RPM) it sits over 14.1 volt and then after that time at the same idle not it sits on 13.8Volt

I was reading that this Alternators have a voltage regulator that lets it give the voltage the batteries actually need, but it seams odd since the old one was just at full blast all the time, maybe its just a better technology because the symptom does seem like a switch changes from over 14.1 to 13.8 Volt.

Im just concerned that is not that when the Alternator gets warm it starts lacking in performance.

ALSO, If any one has any question on the install or want to see pics of the set up im more than happy to post them, I also put a 150amp relay on the instal for security and the car is supercharged to i can show how to fill everything in the tight space.
Click to expand...
Please post up your install pics. It would be a good addition to the thread.
 
LSDbrand said:
Hello @Otamiway

I just installed this excellent product from @Photoman he was super help full with all my questions and was a perfect fit.

I have a question that maybe som one can answer me.

Installed is the 150Amp alternator from a Sequoa, I have a dual battery system (2 yellow top Optima) controle by a Bluesea AL-MRC (highly recommended). I also have a Ironman dual battery display that shows me the volts for the batteries, its a simple one so its just lights with a specific voltage under each one.

Here goes my question. With the stock alternator the voltage was always over 14.1 volts, with normal driving and night driving with my lights on, it rearley went under 14.1 volts during normal car use.

Now with the 150Amp alternator when i start the car its over 14.1 Volt and then after a couple of minutes of driving around (the car already warm and normal idle) not the voltage stays at 13.8 Volts, unless im cruising at about 3000RMP. but its mostly at 13.8Volt

Funny thing is during the first 3 min of the car when i turn it on, on idle (700RPM) it sits over 14.1 volt and then after that time at the same idle not it sits on 13.8Volt

I was reading that this Alternators have a voltage regulator that lets it give the voltage the batteries actually need, but it seams odd since the old one was just at full blast all the time, maybe its just a better technology because the symptom does seem like a switch changes from over 14.1 to 13.8 Volt.

Im just concerned that is not that when the Alternator gets warm it starts lacking in performance.

ALSO, If any one has any question on the install or want to see pics of the set up im more than happy to post them, I also put a 150amp relay on the instal for security and the car is supercharged to i can show how to fill everything in the tight space.
Click to expand...
Hey guys. Have another question maybe you can help with.

My alternator has been behaving differently.

To put some info the set up is.

Dual Optoma yellow tops.
Blue Sea ARC controller (500 amp remote)
150 amp sequoia alternator.

So the voltage was usually between 13.5-14.1 volts. All the time.

After doing some mud and Olympic pool size crossings, about a week later I noticed the alternator would start at 14. Volt when I turn on the car and gradually go down to 13.5-13.2. I would guess this would be ok with no loads.

But then if I turn on the lights and accessories. AC, led bar etc (I measured the amps and it's about 50 amp and the alternator is producing 50 amps as well. The voltage would drop to 12.9.

I did some digging around and noticed the S (sensing) cable of the alternator was connected to the IG CABLE. it's not suposed to so I organize that. Put a new cable for sensing and did some tests.

First o connected the S cable directly to Batery positive terminal. Same behavior of the alternator.

Then I connected the S cable to the main fuse box, supposing this is where the voltage drop would be happening and the alternator would have to adjust with more voltage. This made a slight difference. Now it stills stands at 13.5 most of the time but with load it goes down to 13.2. I would guess this is acceptable but I don't understand why the voltage would drop.

Next test I did was measure the voltage output of the alternator across the Batery terminals with the S cable disconnected. As expected once I disconnected the white the alternator output 16 volt to the battery. Since the Sensing is looking at 0 volt then the output must increases.

Another test I did was look at the voltage at the cigaret lighter in the cab. It drops to 12.4-12.7 volts with all accessories turned on. And the voltage at the main fuse box (the one in the hood) drops to 13.1.

With all this info. I want to know if I should either connect the sensing cable to the cigaret lighter (at the fuse Box inside the car) so the alternator sees the true voltage drop. Of if there is something truly wrong with the alternate.

Another thing I did was take one optima out and put in on a wall charger. It charge up to 13.2 and dropped to 13 volt over night and stayed Stady. I left the second battery in the car was is disconnected and it also dropped to 13 volt. I would guess this is an ok voltage bit according to optima the battery should change to 13.2 Stady.

In any case if anyone has any info please let me know.
 
I've seen 12.8 on a healthy battery, but never under 13.6 on a healthy alt .. if mine goes under 13.8 I got nervous ..
 
Conversion kit and Denso reman from Advance Auto Parts ($225 after core) in hand. I'm just waiting for a spare moment to get it done. Thanks again @Photoman for your efforts. This is a great mod that opens the door to many others.
 
Sounds like the new regulator is set to a lower voltage. That will slow charging times, and may not be enough to fully charge some batteries which will want to see a minimum of 14.4 volts or so.

But I think all Toyota voltage regulators of this era are temperature sensitive. They put out a higher voltage when cold, and a lower voltage when hot. My 80 stock alternator regulates at 14.8 when cold, and 14.0 when fully hot under the hood on a hot day.

I have seen small resistors on the sense wire used to fool the alternator into putting out a higher voltage as well.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Sounds like the new regulator is set to a lower voltage. That will slow charging times, and may not be enough to fully charge some batteries which will want to see a minimum of 14.4 volts or so.

But I think all Toyota voltage regulators of this era are temperature sensitive. They put out a higher voltage when cold, and a lower voltage when hot. My 80 stock alternator regulates at 14.8 when cold, and 14.0 when fully hot under the hood on a hot day.

I have seen small resistors on the sense wire used to fool the alternator into putting out a higher voltage as well.
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Yeah, toady i tested the voltage when hot, and its definatelly heat sensitive, when its hot it wont go over 13.2 volts, definatelly bad.

any one has a sorce for the voltage regulator??? for the 150amp version

thanks
 
LSDbrand said:
Hello @Otamiway

I just installed this excellent product from @Photoman he was super help full with all my questions and was a perfect fit.

I have a question that maybe som one can answer me.

Installed is the 150Amp alternator from a Sequoa, I have a dual battery system (2 yellow top Optima) controle by a Bluesea AL-MRC (highly recommended). I also have a Ironman dual battery display that shows me the volts for the batteries, its a simple one so its just lights with a specific voltage under each one.

Here goes my question. With the stock alternator the voltage was always over 14.1 volts, with normal driving and night driving with my lights on, it rearley went under 14.1 volts during normal car use.

Now with the 150Amp alternator when i start the car its over 14.1 Volt and then after a couple of minutes of driving around (the car already warm and normal idle) not the voltage stays at 13.8 Volts, unless im cruising at about 3000RMP. but its mostly at 13.8Volt

Funny thing is during the first 3 min of the car when i turn it on, on idle (700RPM) it sits over 14.1 volt and then after that time at the same idle not it sits on 13.8Volt

I was reading that this Alternators have a voltage regulator that lets it give the voltage the batteries actually need, but it seams odd since the old one was just at full blast all the time, maybe its just a better technology because the symptom does seem like a switch changes from over 14.1 to 13.8 Volt.

Im just concerned that is not that when the Alternator gets warm it starts lacking in performance.

ALSO, If any one has any question on the install or want to see pics of the set up im more than happy to post them, I also put a 150amp relay on the instal for security and the car is supercharged to i can show how to fill everything in the tight space.
Click to expand...

Mine does same thing from 14.1V to 13.8V after a couple of minutes and stay at 13.8V. I guess it is normal. I have been running this set up for almost 4 years.
 
Alternator output will fall with heat. My 150 Sequioa did the same thing after some deep water crossings. Given your problem started after use in mud, is it possible the casing/windings are clogged preventing cooler air flow? I cleaned it out and it was still not right, I guess the heat killed it?

Ordered a new VR and it was fine for a few HOURS, it was a copy and not OE. Still looking for the OE VR number there is quite a variation.

For the moment I put a new stock output unit in (I have all electric engine cooling), and great for the few months it has been in however, I noticed output dropped a couple of weeks back during 48C heat on a desert trail, output fell from the usual 14.4 down to 13.7 (NL monitor) even with the fan off, lots of very fine dust about so that may have contributed to the voltage drop?

Either way, the first day out and back on tarmac and cooler temps, the output climbed back to 14.4, so check the alternator for cleanliness.

Something else, aftermarket voltage regulators IME cannot shine a light on OE units.

Regards

Dave

Two weeks ba
 
Dave 2000 said:
Alternator output will fall with heat. My 150 Sequioa did the same thing after some deep water crossings. Given your problem started after use in mud, is it possible the casing/windings are clogged preventing cooler air flow? I cleaned it out and it was still not right, I guess the heat killed it?

Ordered a new VR and it was fine for a few HOURS, it was a copy and not OE. Still looking for the OE VR number there is quite a variation.

For the moment I put a new stock output unit in (I have all electric engine cooling), and great for the few months it has been in however, I noticed output dropped a couple of weeks back during 48C heat on a desert trail, output fell from the usual 14.4 down to 13.7 (NL monitor) even with the fan off, lots of very fine dust about so that may have contributed to the voltage drop?

Either way, the first day out and back on tarmac and cooler temps, the output climbed back to 14.4, so check the alternator for cleanliness.

Something else, aftermarket voltage regulators IME cannot shine a light on OE units.

Regards

Dave

Two weeks ba
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Thanks for The info! My problem Is that it wont Go over 13.5! And even in cold it bearly makes it to 14.

Where did you get the OE voltage regulator? I'm Trina to find it but I only seem to find aftermarket products.

Thanks.
 
ontopofm said:
Mine does same thing from 14.1V to 13.8V after a couple of minutes and stay at 13.8V. I guess it is normal. I have been running this set up for almost 4 years.
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Yeah. That is how it was when first installed it. Now it doesn't go up to 13.5 and stays at 13.2. Way too low
 
When cold and in the process to replenish the batteries it should go over 14V .. ( mine 14.4 ) then it will go down a bit while getting hot and batteries get topped again .. if you run windows it should go up also ..
 
LSDbrand said:
Thanks for The info! My problem Is that it wont Go over 13.5! And even in cold it bearly makes it to 14.

Where did you get the OE voltage regulator? I'm Trina to find it but I only seem to find aftermarket products.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

13.5 is too low, the minimum should be 13.8. Out of curiosity have you tried a different multimeter?, just to confirm your readings? I say that because you are seeing barely 14 when cold and just .3 short of 13.8.

Also try running a new earth cable battery negative to alternator body, and a new from the positive to the alternator B+terminal? Unsure on the gas models, but the diesels have a sensor which detects battery voltage, again needs to be clean and in good condition, just shots in the dark at the moment.

How about borrowing an alternator and just bolting it on, anyone near you? It would at least allow you to discount cables etc?

I am in the same boat re the reg, all seem to be aftermarket crap and either low on output or pack up after a short time.

Regards

Dave
 
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