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Hello,
I assume the trucks you checked are compliant with the 25-year rule.
Power-wise, the 1FZ beats the other two. Around 180 HP for the carbureted model, 212 HP for the fuel injected one. Compare this with 155 HP for the 3F and around 140 HP (I am not completely sure about this figure) for the 13B-T.
Regarding low rpm power, it is a tie between the 1FZ and the 13B-T in my opinion.
The 3F engine is powerful but thirsty.
The 1FZ engine is less thirsty than the 3F, especially the 1FZ-FE. The 1FZ-F can use a Holley fuel injection module. Watch your right foot and keep your rpm at 2000 - 2100 for reasonable (11 to 18 mpg) gas mileage.
The 13B-T sips fuel in comparison.
Both the 3F and the 13B-T share the H55F transmission. It is widely available in North America.
The 1FZ uses the H151F transmission. Not as available as the H55F in North America, but it is as tough and reliable as it gets.
If fuel price is a concern, I would go with the 13B-T.
If fuel price is not a concern, I would go with the 1FZ.
If you are looking for a truck south of the border, due dilligence is a must. Watch very carefully before you buy. There are too many questionable trucks for sale from that neck of the woods lately.
Juan
I assume the trucks you checked are compliant with the 25-year rule.
Power-wise, the 1FZ beats the other two. Around 180 HP for the carbureted model, 212 HP for the fuel injected one. Compare this with 155 HP for the 3F and around 140 HP (I am not completely sure about this figure) for the 13B-T.
Regarding low rpm power, it is a tie between the 1FZ and the 13B-T in my opinion.
The 3F engine is powerful but thirsty.
The 1FZ engine is less thirsty than the 3F, especially the 1FZ-FE. The 1FZ-F can use a Holley fuel injection module. Watch your right foot and keep your rpm at 2000 - 2100 for reasonable (11 to 18 mpg) gas mileage.
The 13B-T sips fuel in comparison.
Both the 3F and the 13B-T share the H55F transmission. It is widely available in North America.
The 1FZ uses the H151F transmission. Not as available as the H55F in North America, but it is as tough and reliable as it gets.
If fuel price is a concern, I would go with the 13B-T.
If fuel price is not a concern, I would go with the 1FZ.
If you are looking for a truck south of the border, due dilligence is a must. Watch very carefully before you buy. There are too many questionable trucks for sale from that neck of the woods lately.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks, everybody, for the input.I went with the 13BT; well, I put a deposit on it.
I drove 3.5 hours to check out the 3F in person. In the listing pictures, it looked like it had just come out of the manufacturing plant. However, after a quick check, I found some red flags: there were 1-inch spacers on the tranny skid plate.There were also plates with four bolt threads sticking out on each side of the frame by the transmission, possibly used to fix a bent frame?
The left rear gate didn't line up, and the right one hit the ARB bumper on the right corner. This could have been an issue with how the bumper was mounted, but given the other flags, it seemed more likely that it had been rear-ended.
The 13BT was 4 hours away from there, so I drove over, checked it out, and it's in great shape
"
I drove 3.5 hours to check out the 3F in person. In the listing pictures, it looked like it had just come out of the manufacturing plant. However, after a quick check, I found some red flags: there were 1-inch spacers on the tranny skid plate.There were also plates with four bolt threads sticking out on each side of the frame by the transmission, possibly used to fix a bent frame?
The left rear gate didn't line up, and the right one hit the ARB bumper on the right corner. This could have been an issue with how the bumper was mounted, but given the other flags, it seemed more likely that it had been rear-ended.
The 13BT was 4 hours away from there, so I drove over, checked it out, and it's in great shape
"
FJBen
SILVER Star
Thanks, everybody, for the input.I went with the 13BT; well, I put a deposit on it.
I drove 3.5 hours to check out the 3F in person. In the listing pictures, it looked like it had just come out of the manufacturing plant. However, after a quick check, I found some red flags: there were 1-inch spacers on the tranny skid plate.There were also plates with four bolt threads sticking out on each side of the frame by the transmission, possibly used to fix a bent frame?
The left rear gate didn't line up, and the right one hit the ARB bumper on the right corner. This could have been an issue with how the bumper was mounted, but given the other flags, it seemed more likely that it had been rear-ended.
The 13BT was 4 hours away from there, so I drove over, checked it out, and it's in great shape
Nice welcome to the 13bt club. Great little engine….the best upgrade to this engine is a turbo upgrade. Makes a huge difference in how it drives, so much better.
Now where’s the pictures??
- Thread starter
- #25
Here you go...
- Thread starter
- #26
Where can I find more info on this?
FJBen
SILVER Star
There are a couple of options depending on what you want to do. The factory turbo Toyota used on the 13bt is too big, so it’s a bit lazy and laggy. These upgrade turbos are sizes right and make it drive much better.
Bolt on turbos:
Gturbo - out of Australia, makes great turbos lots people use them here, about $1,600US plus shipping.
13BT / 14BT Archives - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product-category/gturbos-for-toyotas/13bt-14bt-15b-fte/
Munro turbos - builds custom turbos out of Australia, bolt on, highly used in aus, $900ish to $1500 plus shipping. I was going to use them, but went a different way.
munro racing turbochargers - https://munroracingturbochargers.com.au/
Non-bolt on but possibly better…
Holset he221w -that’s what I’m running. Will need some mods, adapters to work, intake/exhaust , works excellent.
Td04hl pretty much same thing as Holset, needs intake/exhaust mods, oil/drain mods , work great
These 2 above are cheap, but require work like I said. If you like to tinker and mod, they will be awesome. These are more modern turbos compared to the bolt on ones, but nothing wrong with the bolt on either.
IMO, once you upgrade the turbo you have to upgrade the exhaust. 2.5” is fine and easier to route but it will help with EGT and airflow.
You really can’t go wrong with any of the above options and it really makes the engine feel and run much better. Feel free to ask away on questions.
That Bj71 looks great! Welcome to mud!
- Thread starter
- #29
Thanks!
My bj71 came with a safari snorkel. Would it restrict airflow to the turbo upgrades?
P.M. sent …..
