110 or 220, your opinion please??

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Unoman

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I will be attempting a Saginaw PS conversion on my 75' FJ40 this weekend. In your opinion, is a 110 welder sufficient enough to box in the frame and make welds strong enough to endure the pressure from the Saginaw box? I know a 220 would be ideal, but unfortunately I don't have one at my disposal. If consensus says I should go with a 220, then I will have to take it to a shop. I consider myself a mild wheeler, nothing extreme.
 
IMO, a 110 welder is great for light-medium duty brackets, roll cages, and sheet metal. I used my lincoln 110 to burn in my SR hangers- but then borrowed my bosses big miller to do it right. You'll need to be able to sleep at night, right? Steering, suspension, or brakes- if you're asking if you should go bigger- GO BIGGER. Right? There are other people on those roads you drive.
 
I think either will work, a 220 will do it in 1 pass, but a good top quality 110 will also do it in 1 or 2 passes. Documents for my 110 says it will do 1/4 with two passes and I have welded frames with it. Get metal similar to what you are going to weld and practice and cut it apart so see how well it welded. The welding skills and practice with the welder you choose is far more important then the welder, but you would need top end of the 110 for sure. I got a 110, debated about getting a 220, main reason I went with the 110 is I can use it anywhere, 220 would do better on the bigger jobs, the longer duty cycle would help but my lincoln 110 will penetrate all the way through. I think the flux cord will allow you to weld much thicker metal then if you use a 110 with gas.
 
I personally won't be doing the welding....my buddy, Wyotech grad/BMW dealership mech is going to do that part, so hopefully he passed welding 101 in school :D. He has a 110 Lincoln mig
 
Just about any good welder (man or machine) can do any size material. It just takes more passes, the right rod and good prep. You can use a 110 welder just use a smaller rod. With 300 amps you can use 1/4 inch rod, with 80 amps maybe 1/16 would be max. Penetration is the goal and you won't get much so you need to V groove all connections. I would use 7018 and keep the rod in the oven at 200 degrees prior to use. This will remove the moisture from the flux.
 
Just about any good welder (man or machine) can do any size material. It just takes more passes, the right rod and good prep. You can use a 110 welder just use a smaller rod. With 300 amps you can use 1/4 inch rod, with 80 amps maybe 1/16 would be max. Penetration is the goal and you won't get much so you need to V groove all connections. I would use 7018 and keep the rod in the oven at 200 degrees prior to use. This will remove the moisture from the flux.

He's using a mig.
 
I have a Lincoln SP-135 Mig welder. I used the flux core wire (.035) and have done two power steering conversions and a shackle reversal on my '40's. Prep IS the main thing. Everything has stuck pretty good so far. I look it all over from time to time to make sure there are no cracks or other problems. Oh, and I have done one Metal Tech cage with it using flux core...haven't been brave enough to try the cage out yet!!!. I use the small mig wire (.023)for sheet metal work. I also have a MIG Master 250 (ESAB they are called now) that is 220 I have been using on bigger stuff like my curerent project 40 that I'm doing a SOA and other stuff to.
 
I have found when it comes to my family's safety i would prefer to over build with confidence rather than hope my weld is going to hold. Just my 2 cents.
 
a friend of mine welded a 6x6 that i cut in half with a lincon 110 welder and flogged it pretty heavy off road.good luck
 
I have a Lincoln SP-135 Mig welder. I used the flux core wire (.035) and have done two power steering conversions and a shackle reversal on my '40's. Prep IS the main thing. Everything has stuck pretty good so far. I look it all over from time to time to make sure there are no cracks or other problems. Oh, and I have done one Metal Tech cage with it using flux core...haven't been brave enough to try the cage out yet!!!. I use the small mig wire (.023)for sheet metal work. I also have a MIG Master 250 (ESAB they are called now) that is 220 I have been using on bigger stuff like my curerent project 40 that I'm doing a SOA and other stuff to.

Lake Rat, I see that you are in the Austin area. I will be in the Cedar Park when we do this, but live in Austin. The Metal Tech cage is next after this little project. We are going to give our best go with the 110 Mig
 
It is funny how different people are. Some poeple are absolutely fine with one thing while others wouldn't dream of doing it. Me personally I don't take welding for granted or anything else. I overbuild everything and do it the best way possible. You say anal retentive, yes it is possible. Perfectionist, I say definatly.
Why would anybody ever do anything that would give them pause or something that they may have to worry about in the future? Do it the best way possible and then don't look back or worry about it. You olny have one life to loose, what are you willing to gamble it on?
 
Welding 101 doesn't cut it.
The weld can be done with either welders as long as the weld is burned in as hot as possible and the surfaces are prepped properly.
If youre welding expertize amounts to the occassional weld job a couple a times a year I will bet you won't get full penetration.
Alot of guys look at the outside of their welds and admire the nice bead they have laid and think its a good weld,but if you were to cut out a coupon and bend it in a press it would snap like peanut brittle I know I have tested alot of welds.
 
I second the reply below. I've seen many good looking welds that have no penetration. I not only did mine with a 220 machine, but used specific wire and shielding gas to aid penetration. If I had to do it with a 110 box (the only option) I would make sure it was very well prepped and preheat first.

Welding 101 doesn't cut it.
The weld can be done with either welders as long as the weld is burned in as hot as possible and the surfaces are prepped properly.
If youre welding expertize amounts to the occassional weld job a couple a times a year I will bet you won't get full penetration.
Alot of guys look at the outside of their welds and admire the nice bead they have laid and think its a good weld,but if you were to cut out a coupon and bend it in a press it would snap like peanut brittle I know I have tested alot of welds.
 
X2 on Dieseler's comment. If your buddy doesn't know using his own machine I'd consider a more experienced welder.
 
mig is not flux core.
 
I have no doubt that a good weld CAN be done w/ the buzzbox (110)- I have done them- just give yourself the best chances you can for a good weld. And don't take chances on your steering, etc. If you're not POSITIVE on your work in these areas, get proper back-up.
 
The best way to build or add something to a vehicle is to fabricate brackets and use bolts/rivets. Notice how most things bolt or rivet on. These fasteners have very predictable performance, easy to calculate the strenth of threads and the shear strength of the steel. Bolted brackets also give a little without breaking or cracking, this is good in a frame that has to flex. A fabricated bracket can have more thought put into strength elements like gussets and bends. Don't weld it on, use a bracket and bolts.
 
I appreciate everyone's input. The Saginaw conversion is the kit from Downey and I've had it sitting in a box for about a year now. I think we'll just tear everything down, tack weld what we need and then I'll flat tow it to the fab/off-road shop 2 mi down the road. I'll let them burn it in with their professional touch.
 
possibly preheat the material. i have 1/4plate engine mounts i build in high school in a go cart that has a V-twin in it. on some machines there is a chart saying matl thickness, wire type, feeds and speeds. might be worth a look
 
I appreciate everyone's input. The Saginaw conversion is the kit from Downey and I've had it sitting in a box for about a year now. I think we'll just tear everything down, tack weld what we need and then I'll flat tow it to the fab/off-road shop 2 mi down the road. I'll let them burn it in with their professional touch.

Great decision, and now you won't have to worry about it, because it will be done right. Ah peace of mind is a great thing. :hillbilly:
 

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