Builds 100's Cousin (twice removed) (1 Viewer)

[GTV]

Once we found camp we didn’t see another soul the whole time we were there. Mosquito’s weren’t even too bothersome. It was awesome.
The Sequoia soaked up big bumps way better than I was expecting, I found myself bracing for impact a couple times and was pleasantly surprised with how well it swallowed them up. Much better than my my Tundra would have done on the same path. Really looking forward to how it performs once my wheels and tires are on.

 

[GTV]

I’m planning on road tripping from WA to AZ and back in October. Need to do a little more preventive maintenance before I set off. Top two concerns right now are the heater T’s and CV boots. The outer boots look great (possibly have been replaced) but the inners have been slinging grease since before I bought the truck. So my questions are:

Is it foolish to replace only the inners?
Are the inner and outer boots the same part?
I’m only lifted 43mm (1.7”) according to Bilstein’s literature (and the tape measure agrees), do I need to get the high angle red boots or will OEM Toyota boots do the job?

Is there any other PM I should do while I’m messing with these two jobs?

Thanks all!

 

[Jgrauman]

I went with these Cv boots. They fit great. I have 2.5" lift and they have held up well. I repacked the joints while in there. Since yours have been open for so long, really clean and inspect. There are also these Cvs which have good reviews and the high angle boots already installed. You could do inner and outer tie rods if they have play.

 

[GTV]

So the inners and outers are different.

I replaced the rack and ends earlier this year so that’s all good.

 

[GTV]

I’m really looking for some advice here...

I’ve noticed the right front brake making a little noise lately. I looked into it and saw the outboard rotor face was getting chewed up from the pad, unexpected since I did a visual inspection when I did the rack and shocks, it all looked ok then. It also drove fine. I looked under the truck and saw this little surprise.

Off with the front wheels and the backing plate fell to the ground.

Off with the calipers and as expected the outboard pad was toast.

I plan on going with GX460 brakes, might as well put GX460 backing plates on there at the same time.

First question: What’s the best way to access the backing plates? I believe the bearings are pressed into the hubs (or spindles?) and it is a real PITA to R&R.

I was already planning on taking care of the CV boots, reading through the manual they advise removing the LBJ from the control arm to get the axles out. So I might as well replace the LBJ’s while I’m at it since a LBJ failure is not something I wish to experience.

Question #2: I know I previously asked this but the situation is a little different now that I’m getting in deep with the brakes. So what else should I replace while I’m in there? Upper ball joints? Control arm bushings (X8!)? The camber bolts are also seized in the frame, alignment is currently within spec but could be better. Any reason to replace the UCA’s? Would I gain anything from aftermarket UCA’s? My “build” will stay mild, only going to be running 32” tires.

Looking for either a place to draw the line or just go through the entire front end and be done with it once and for all. All of these bushings, joints, boots and brakes are really starting to add up and I’m not really sure if it’s worth it.

Thanks for any insight!

 

[GTV]

I’m now considering upgrading to a 100 series so I can be part of a group that actively shares what they’ve learned in order to keep their rigs on the road.

In all honesty, I genuinely like this truck but above all the lack of enthusiasm towards this model is really pushing me towards a 100.

 

[Jgrauman]

I’m now considering upgrading to a 100 series so I can be part of a group that actively shares what they’ve learned in order to keep their rigs on the road.

In all honesty, I genuinely like this truck but above all the lack of enthusiasm towards this model is really pushing me towards a 100.

Well that's weird... I love my sequoia! I loved my 80 too. I don't miss having to fix something every weekend when I wanted to go for drive though. So I have my sequoia and still read the 80s section here on mud and problem solved. if I were you, and I technically am since we have the same rig, I would replace everything I wanted to replace... It's up you how much you want to spend honestly. If your bushings are shot, replace them, if you WANT to replace the ucas then go for it. If you have so much rust your backing plates are falling off and your camber bolts are seized and you have the cash, replace it all. Money is my driving force for these decisions and I prioritize on that. Hope that helps.

 

[mtoddsolomon]

My cousin had an 80 series when I was in high school and I thought it was the coolest thing in the world. Then my buddies dad gave him a fresh restore gold 87 and I thought it was even cooler than the newer 80 series. And I’ve always loved the 100s and really just wanted that as my “dad car” weekend vehicle. But, my father in law gave me an 02 sequoia that he got new and drove until my wife went to college. She gave it back to him after college and he just used it to haul mulch and as his “truck.” I’ve fallen in love with this car. It needed a lot of tlc from lack of cleaning and maintenance but soon it will be better than when she took it to Tallahassee. Plus when I drive it, I’m not worried about having to keep my phone handy like other buddies in their older land cruisers because I know that4.7 is bombproof.

 

[GTV]

@Jgrauman I don’t see preventative maintenance as a want, I see it was a need. So in that definition it isn’t up to me or my wallet. If it has to be done, it has to be done.

For example, when it comes to the CV boots I’d like to know at what lift (cv angle) does it become wise to upgrade to aftermarket boots. I prefer OEM parts (especially when it comes to rubber) but if they can’t hold up to a little more CV angle then I’ll go aftermarket. Things like this have been tested and the results have been shared in the 100 community, apparently not so much in the Tundra/Sequoia world. Same goes for the UCA’s. At what point is it wise to upgrade to aftermarket UCA’s? I imagine that I am below the threshold but I don’t know for sure.

I don’t want to indiscriminately throw money at the thing. I don’t know if it is wise to replace the the upper ball joints, bushings, cam adjusters, etc. or if I have absolutely nothing to worry about there since alignment is within spec (just not ideal). My bushings aren’t falling out of the truck but does that mean they are ok?

The only bits I have 100% confidence in replacing now are the brakes (including backing plates, that gives me an opportunity to inspect wheel bearings but it also opens up another can of worms in regards to properly doing that job, removing and pressing in bearings, etc), the CV boots and the lower ball joints. I’ve seen far too many LBJ failures to ignore them. At the moment I’m considering skipping the cam adjusters, A arm bushings and upper ball joints because they don’t appear to me to need replacement. But I’m ignorant, someone out here has to know more than I do.

Does anyone know where an online FSM for these trucks are?

Current state, need to get that left side axle out.

 

[Jgrauman]

@Jgrauman I don’t see preventative maintenance as a want, I see it was a need. So in that definition it isn’t up to me or my wallet. If it has to be done, it has to be done.

For example, when it comes to the CV boots I’d like to know at what lift (cv angle) does it become wise to upgrade to aftermarket boots. I prefer OEM parts (especially when it comes to rubber) but if they can’t hold up to a little more CV angle then I’ll go aftermarket. Things like this have been tested and the results have been shared in the 100 community, apparently not so much in the Tundra/Sequoia world. Same goes for the UCA’s. At what point is it wise to upgrade to aftermarket UCA’s? I imagine that I am below the threshold but I don’t know for sure.

I don’t want to indiscriminately throw money at the thing. I don’t know if it is wise to replace the the upper ball joints, bushings, cam adjusters, etc. or if I have absolutely nothing to worry about there since alignment is within spec (just not ideal). My bushings aren’t falling out of the truck but does that mean they are ok?

The only bits I have 100% confidence in replacing now are the brakes (including backing plates, that gives me an opportunity to inspect wheel bearings but it also opens up another can of worms in regards to properly doing that job, removing and pressing in bearings, etc), the CV boots and the lower ball joints. I’ve seen far too many LBJ failures to ignore them. At the moment I’m considering skipping the cam adjusters, A arm bushings and upper ball joints because they don’t appear to me to need replacement. But I’m ignorant, someone out here has to know more than I do.

Does anyone know where an online FSM for these trucks are?

Current state, need to get that left side axle out.
View attachment 2061232
View attachment 2061233

Fsm link

2005 Toyota Sequoia Factory Service Manual

I figured folks might find a use for a Official Toyota Sequoia Factory Service Manual. The file is quite large, so please be patient if you have a slow internet connection. Download the PDF.

sequoia-forums.com

 

[dingoboyexplore]

like u i thought about what to replace. im just doing it all in time. I would suggest the UCA as the down travel will increase and the angle of the tire as well. That, the shocks and springs is all ive done. I want to every bushing tied in. after all...that stuff only lasts so long. I can put it off for another month? year? But it does more harm then good imo. But my wallet is tiny so i get to it as i get to it

 

[GTV]

First parts have landed, GX460 backing plates. I love modding with factory parts.

I also found this handy dandy YouTube video:


Time to get these knuckles off so the hubs can be pressed out and the new backing plates installed.

 

[GTV]

like u i thought about what to replace. im just doing it all in time. I would suggest the UCA as the down travel will increase and the angle of the tire as well. That, the shocks and springs is all ive done. I want to every bushing tied in. after all...that stuff only lasts so long. I can put it off for another month? year? But it does more harm then good imo. But my wallet is tiny so i get to it as i get to it

I talked to a good friend of mine last night who owns a shop back in AZ. He gave me some pointers on how to check the control arm bushings for wear. So if they test out OK I’ll leave the rest of it alone, if not it looks like I’ll be doing those along with the cam adjusters, etc. I’m trying to keep this “build” very simple so I’m going to try and stick with the factory control arms. If really see myself needing more off-roadability I’ll upgrade to a 100 but this should be fine to start with.

 

[GTV]

Lunch break!
Been fighting with rusty cotter pins, super fun but it could have been a lot worse. The right side knuckle is now off.

UCA hardware looks new, it even looks better than that in my Tundra and that has been an AZ truck most of its life. So that must have been replaced relatively recently.

Not surprisingly, the LCA is a totally different story.

Now that I’m this deep doing the cam adjusters and bushings look like a better idea. This also is a great opportunity to clean up some of that surface rust and throw some paint or POR-15 on there. Additionally I’m considering taking the 5100’s down a notch (.7”/18mm), dead level just doesn’t look right to my eye.

Time to do the other side!

 

[GTV]

Stripped down to the arms. Wasn’t too bad getting there, rusty cotter pins were the worst part. I wasn’t planning on doing these but while I’m here...

 

[GTV]

After much deliberation I’ve decided to leave the control arms alone for now. The bushings test out ok, the alignment is good enough. No sense in throwing another $600+ at it at this point in time. I’ll also leave the 5100’s where they are for now, once I get my wheels and tires on there I’ll decide whether to drop the front down a hair or put a short spacer in the rear.
Next step is spraying some rust converter on the ugly bits and some chassis black on top. I’ll have the hubs pressed out of the knuckles on Monday, the rest of the parts should arrive early next week so hopefully I’ll be bolting the new stuff on soon.

 

[dingoboyexplore]

I talked to a good friend of mine last night who owns a shop back in AZ. He gave me some pointers on how to check the control arm bushings for wear. So if they test out OK I’ll leave the rest of it alone, if not it looks like I’ll be doing those along with the cam adjusters, etc. I’m trying to keep this “build” very simple so I’m going to try and stick with the factory control arms. If really see myself needing more off-roadability I’ll upgrade to a 100 but this should be fine to start with.

i had a 100 before this, dont think its anymore capable. tbh

 

[GTV]

Let me start by saying that I understand backing plates aren’t necessary. I’ve run plenty of old cars without. I do prefer to use them, so when the originals rotted out I figured I might as well replace them with GX460 units to match the brake upgrade. It should be easy, right? Pull the knuckles off, have the hubs pressed out, swap the new plates on, have the old hubs pressed back on and Bob’s your uncle.

It’s not that simple.

When I dropped the knuckles off at the machine shop I was told that pressing the hubs out usually ruins the bearings. Fantastic. And that I would have to replace more than just the inner seals (that I just spent $80 on). Super. At least I won’t have wheel bearings with 260k miles on them anymore.

Picked the pieces up today. Got home and offered up the backing plates. No go. Inside diameter on the GX plates is quite a bit smaller. That’s the factory Sequoia reinforcement piece lying on top (which was welded to the original plates, interestingly the GX plates are not reinforced).

Does not come close to fitting on the knuckle.

Also the bolt pattern is different.

If I would have known this debacle lied ahead I would have just skipped backing plates and saved myself heaps of money, time and sweat. But I’m here now so there’s nothing to do but follow through. These backing plates are going on.

So I’m thinking first I’ll open up the ID to fit. Bolt up a GX460 caliper to see how the plate needs to be clocked. Find where the new holes need to be in the plate and drill them. Clean up the original reinforcement pieces and spot weld them on. Hopefully by then Robert will in fact be your father’s brother.

 

[GTV]

Also, parts finally arrived today from McGeorge. CV boot kits, lower ball joints, hard brakes lines that connect to the caliper (one of mine snapped), inner CV/knuckle seals, and the ubiquitous heater T’s which are so well talked about on the 100 forum.

Hoping to make some actual progress this weekend. I had a fairly bad bike crash early Monday morning so I’ll have to take it a little easy while I recoup. Road rash is no joke. I feel like this project will never end.

 

[mtoddsolomon]

Man that’s a tough break. I’m not far behind with the lower ball joints. I just replaced my rotors and pads with drilled and slotted rotors before I ever found out about the gx upgrade. Honestly I’ve been much happier since my rotor change so I’m not going to bother. For me it’s going to be suspension next then paint. 17 years in the Florida sun will do a number on paint.