100 series Windshield Replacement Question: OEM vs. After Market Glass (1 Viewer)

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For the record. I've used and mentioned Safelite in this forum, which was not a recommendation.

I no longer use Safelite. Inpart, because the crew I'd worked/broke-in, is no longer there. I did have their new crew scheduled to come and install another earlier this. year. But they refused to wear a mask. Said I should schedule back when "crisis" (Covid) over. Like as if it would just be a month or two. I laughed and said what crisis are you speaking of. I ended up calling a different company to remove/install. They turned to much less expensive, than Safelite.

Safelite does not follow the FSM. I don't know anyone that does in my area. Dealership typically do not do install. They contract with whomever. Neither do I know anyone that installs the molding correctly.

I remove all molding and install it myself. If minor rust staining found. I de-rust and paint myself while windshield out. I then have them come back when ready for install.. What they (mosy) use to paint (Sika primer, promote adhesion of the black poly) is by no means as good as factory paint. It does not hold up well, and is only meant for very minor scratches. They very often, will scratch through the paint to metal. Why, installers just care about being fast. I paint with epoxy primer, POR-15 or combination of the two, after through prep.

They all claim to use same glass more or less. Which they say only 3 or 4 manufacture in the world. Seems to me some glass is optical wave from the side. Some glass pits and cracks easier. I can't say which is best glass. OEM, is maybe manufacture to higher standard form IDK. But only time OEM really needed, is with night vision. In those Insurance can't refuse OEM replacement cost.
 
For the record. I've used and mentioned Safelite in this forum, which was not a recommendation.

I no longer use Safelite. Inpart, because the crew I'd worked/broke-in, is no longer there. I did have their new crew scheduled to come and install another earlier this. year. But they refused to wear a mask. Said I should schedule back when "crisis" (Covid) over. Like as if it would just be a month or two. I laughed and said what crisis are you speaking of. I ended up calling a different company to remove/install. They turned to much less expensive, than Safelite.

Safelite does not follow the FSM. I don't know anyone that does in my area. Dealership typically do not do install. They contract with whomever. Neither do I know anyone that installs the molding correctly.

I remove all molding and install it myself. If minor rust staining found. I de-rust and paint myself while windshield out. I then have them come back when ready for install.. What they (mosy) use to paint (Sika primer, promote adhesion of the black poly) is by no means as good as factory paint. It does not hold up well, and is only meant for very minor scratches. They very often, will scratch through the paint to metal. Why, installers just care about being fast. I paint with epoxy primer, POR-15 or combination of the two, after through prep.

They all claim to use same glass more or less. Which they say only 3 or 4 manufacture in the world. Seems to me some glass is optical wave from the side. Some glass pits and cracks easier. I can't say which is best glass. OEM, is maybe manufacture to higher standard form IDK. But only time OEM really needed, is with night vision. In those Insurance can't refuse OEM replacement cost.
Extreme Autoworks in Lakewood followed as much of the FSM as I asked when they did mine this year. Rivets only, welded up old drilled holes, rust treatment, prime, paint, etc... They also worked with insurance to get OEM glass, trim and body prep work covered under the insurance claim.

9/10 would hire them again. Only reason it's not a 10/10 is because I had to call them to get status more than I'd like. Their labor charges on the windshield work (aside from the body work which is always expensive and hard to judge) was very reasonable.
 
Extreme Autoworks in Lakewood followed as much of the FSM as I asked when they did mine this year. Rivets only, welded up old drilled holes, rust treatment, prime, paint, etc... They also worked with insurance to get OEM glass, trim and body prep work covered under the insurance claim.

9/10 would hire them again. Only reason it's not a 10/10 is because I had to call them to get status more than I'd like. Their labor charges on the windshield work (aside from the body work which is always expensive and hard to judge) was very reasonable.
Good to know!
 
My experience with Safelite was nothing short of horrific. I am still dealing with the aftermath on my 05 Tundra. They say they will make good on it, but it is such a hassle dealing with it. Where can I get the FSM for my Tundra and my 05 Land Cruiser.
 
I used to go have a cup of coffee while installers worked. No longer.

Today, I do all molding work and repairs to body paint under molding. I just have installers pull and install glass with me watching.
 
Where can I get the FSM for my Tundra and my 05 Land Cruiser.
Search in the 100 section for the 100 series FSM. There are many downloadable copies around. Also ebay has a few seller, of new and used hard copy. BTW: Hard copy stop printing in or about 2011.
 
My experience with Safelite was nothing short of horrific. I am still dealing with the aftermath on my 05 Tundra. They say they will make good on it, but it is such a hassle dealing with it. Where can I get the FSM for my Tundra and my 05 Land Cruiser.
The "warranty" that Safelite and others offer is nearly worthless. From my prodding it's apparent to me it doesn't cover damage from poor install, damage to moldings, damage to A pillar, damage to anything other than the glass itself. They're willing to warranty the cheap piece of glass that probably costs them $100, but nothing else.
 
Has anyone else noticed that having a bug shield on the hood reduces the amount of road debris that hits the windshield?

I have a Tacoma that is prone to windshield chips. Since I installed the weather tech bug deflector, I've noticed flying debris seems to miss the windshield.

I'm almost ready to buy one for the LX to see if it makes a difference.
 
I used to go have a cup of coffee while installers worked. No longer.

Today, I do all molding work and repairs to body paint under molding. I just have installers pull and install glass with me watching.
I do the same thing 👍

Also there to many so called instalers that use to bigger drill to remove the pop rivets holding the side moulding to the A pillar/windscreen frame, then the holes are usless, then they use the wrong type of rivit or self taping screws and water gets in the pilar and then drains onto the fuse boxes in the footwells.
 
I am not seeing Weather Tech option on their site for a 99 or 2000 Lexus.
 
Anyone have tips on removing the old adhesive from the top of the window trim? Been going at for an hour.
 
Bought my 100 with Fuyo (FY) and have not seen any issues. FY is the better of the Chinese Brands.

Had a windshield replaced on my other car and they brought over some ToPower Glass. It was terrible. Not as clear and wavy. He made good and came back with Pilkington made in Canada.

Be sure to check the glass before install. You can see country made or any major defects. Stick with brands you know.
 
Just completed the rivet and trim portion of the job. A dealer (or their subcontractor) did okay work on the windscreen a few months ago (Mr. T glass) but when it came time to put the trim pieces (75534-60021, 75534-60031) back on, simply attempted to re-use the fasteners which were left there from the last (also Mr. T!) glass: (perfectly sized, not drilled out) drywall screws/anchors(!!). The attempt to reuse was not successful, though, because half of the anchors were pushed through the mount holes during the remount attempt, and thus the screws couldn't be tightened, leading to rattling and wind noise. The dealer/subcontractor also elected to use Gorilla-style clear double sided tape for the roof part, which did not hold on one side. (I used 3M foam tape, the strongest version that Home Depot carried).

I cannot imagine how painful/time consuming those screw anchors must have been to install (spinning, etc) - the riveting was quick and easy with the $10 harbor freight swivel head gun.
Tips:
-Use cardboard on the windshield to pad against gun recoil (duh)
-To get into the trimpiece channel and get the nosepiece against the rivet head, you need a longer nosepiece on the rivet gun - take the correct size nosepiece and tape it to the end of the gun with the next biggest nosepiece inserted, et voila.
-You want the Mr. T rivets (90269-04053), because they have a longer mandrel, and the plastic jacket which I expect helps to seal the rivet/hole properly. Random harbor freight rivets that come with the gun probably have shorter mandrels, which will make the taped nosepiece trick above not work, plus they will not have the plastic jacket.
-The Mr. T rivets can be ordered individually, but come in a pack of 10 naturally, so you have a couple extras and don't make the parts guys roll their eyes.
-The "windshield trim" rubber pieces (75543-60020) that go in the channel over the rivet heads are pretty difficult to reuse after 20 years of hot sun.
-I also took the opportunity to replace the clips (90467-08108) that hold the hood seal (53383-60031) in place, because those were all really busted after who knows how many windshield replacements.
 
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I have a 2000 LC with the original windshield on it.

The windshield has a few small chips in it and hundreds of tiny ones that look like dust particles speckled all over it that's really visable when driving into the sun. I'd like to get it replaced.

My local dealership quotes a replacement for about $900, parts and labor. (makes me feel like puking)

If I remember correctly, C-Dan said he could get the glass for about $350, plus $100 or so shipping to California. But he said that shipping is a pain, and it may even crack during the shipping.

I found www.windshield.net that can install a replacement at my home for $256, or $165 for just the glass and molding.

My question is whether an OEM windshield is that much better than an after market windshield? I know the dealership asked if I wanted bronze glass or green glass, so I assume that the OEM glass is tinted for the LC.

Would anyone have any experience with any of the services that come to install an aftermarket windshield at your home, or the quality of glass?

Thanks

-Kalen
Kalen
I researched this topic as you are doing. I went to the dealer and they referred me to the glass shop that they use. That glass shop gave me a aftermarket and an OEM quote. That shop also said the install absolutely Hass to happen at their shop. A mobile install will not be to the same OEM standard in way of installing rivets etc. I ended up going with my insurance companies association with Safelite. I visited the actual Safelite shop and quizzed him on the install procedures. They were very familiar experienced in installing such windshields on land cruisers as it turns out and yes would not do it mobile for the same reasons stated before.
 
The "warranty" that Safelite and others offer is nearly worthless. From my prodding it's apparent to me it doesn't cover damage from poor install, damage to moldings, damage to A pillar, damage to anything other than the glass itself. They're willing to warranty the cheap piece of glass that probably costs them $100, but nothing else.

I had Safelite install a windshield on my Tundra. Horrible nightmare. Lost parts water leaks etc. etc. After too many phone calls and too much time they finally got the parts ordered and sent a guy out to do the repair. When he pulled the windshield he said that it wasn’t even sealed against the frame. He seemed to really know what he was doing so I think in the end it turned out well but I would never use them again. When they called me to schedule the repair work I said I want their most senior installer. It seemed to have worked bc he did know his job, but I shouldn’t have to do that.
 
I've had my windshield replaced twice now, both times using aftermarket glass. Total cost is about $250 installed the only difference I can tell is on one of the aftermarket windshields there was some slight distortion on the passenger side near the A-pillar, but it was minor and was only noticeable for the first few days I drove the truck after the new glass was installed. No difference in wind-noise, etc.
 
I've had my windshield replaced twice now, both times using aftermarket glass. Total cost is about $250 installed the only difference I can tell is on one of the aftermarket windshields there was some slight distortion on the passenger side near the A-pillar, but it was minor and was only noticeable for the first few days I drove the truck after the new glass was installed. No difference in wind-noise, etc.

I currently have wind noise at 70 mph. Does anyone know if this is the result of an improper windshield installation? Was wondering if I could use something like tape to cover over the side seam and see if it makes noise go away for diagnostic purposes. Just trying for figure out where whistling is coming from. Flexseal to the rescue LOL.
 
^^foam/soapy water/shaving cream around the outside perimeter and then light blasts of compressed air from the inside.
 
I currently have wind noise at 70 mph. Does anyone know if this is the result of an improper windshield installation? Was wondering if I could use something like tape to cover over the side seam and see if it makes noise go away for diagnostic purposes. Just trying for figure out where whistling is coming from. Flexseal to the rescue LOL.
Gotta be improper, never had issues with my replacements.
 

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