100 series Windshield Replacement Question: OEM vs. After Market Glass (2 Viewers)

[katit]

Aaaand up to the top. Some clarification on technical installation details needed. This topic clear on trim pieces, but some of the stuff is not clear to me.
Let's look at FSM:


QUESTION: Left/right position of stoppers not clear. On my glass I have single ticks, is it centers of stoppers? And how do I "install" stoppers?? It's PN 56115-33020, I got two of them, but how do they "installed"? On a glass? Glued? And what is the idea of those stoppers, they hold glass from sliding down? Basically more questions then answers here

Dams is pretty understandable. Just stick them on (they got glue side) and they serve as "depth" adjusters

QUESTION: What is first image trying to explain here? That glue should stick out? Or become "not sticking out"?

And then second and third question marks on picture. Should I cover edge of glass with glue? So, it should expand once installed, and I should use spatula to kind of smear it even with glass and try to make sure that edge also covered in glue?

QUESTION: As you see here, top trim glued as well. Multiple questions here..
If I do what displayed above, then area I highlighted below will be filled with glue and trim wouldn't go.
Picture below shows "new/unknown" glue applied and it doesn't show original urethane next to dam.
So, what it is?

And what is PN 08833-00030? I assume it's not urethane but something else I should use for the trim?

 

[DuckLN]

Back in the summer Jake from state charm approved me to get an oem windshield replacemement. They tried to get pilkington for a month and gave up. Oem was about $770 without shipping. Im trying to be extra careful to avoid trucks on the highway!

 

[katit]

Aaaand up to the top. Some clarification on technical installation details needed. This topic clear on trim pieces, but some of the stuff is not clear to me.
Let's look at FSM:


QUESTION: Left/right position of stoppers not clear. On my glass I have single ticks, is it centers of stoppers? And how do I "install" stoppers?? It's PN 56115-33020, I got two of them, but how do they "installed"? On a glass? Glued? And what is the idea of those stoppers, they hold glass from sliding down? Basically more questions then answers here

Dams is pretty understandable. Just stick them on (they got glue side) and they serve as "depth" adjusters




QUESTION: What is first image trying to explain here? That glue should stick out? Or become "not sticking out"?

And then second and third question marks on picture. Should I cover edge of glass with glue? So, it should expand once installed, and I should use spatula to kind of smear it even with glass and try to make sure that edge also covered in glue?




QUESTION: As you see here, top trim glued as well. Multiple questions here..
If I do what displayed above, then area I highlighted below will be filled with glue and trim wouldn't go.
Picture below shows "new/unknown" glue applied and it doesn't show original urethane next to dam.
So, what it is?

And what is PN 08833-00030? I assume it's not urethane but something else I should use for the trim?

Calling people I know dealt with this in a past.. @2001LC , @flintknapper
Really need some help/clarification here.. I am ready to glue window in

 

[2001LC]

First I've never installed nor seen OEM or OEM kit used. But I'll try and help.

Click to expand.

Aaaand up to the top. Some clarification on technical installation details needed. This topic clear on trim pieces, but some of the stuff is not clear to me.
Let's look at FSM:


QUESTION: Left/right position of stoppers not clear. On my glass I have single ticks, is it centers of stoppers? I assume the "tick" marks are center. You can measure body point to help clarify. And how do I "install" stoppers?? It's PN 56115-33020, I got two of them, but how do they "installed"? On a glass? Glued? And what is the idea of those stoppers, they hold glass from sliding down? Basically more questions then answers here
I've always assumed they are for aligning glass with roof line. That they also aid in keeping glass from sliding down during install. They would also aid in side to side alignment. As such would need to attach to glass. I'd need in my hands the glass & stoppers, to aid making the call on glue-on or clip on. But I assumed, until now, they came with adhesive back.
Dams is pretty understandable. Just stick them on (they got glue side) and they serve as "depth" adjusters
DAM may aid in depth setting. To do so, the rubber would need to be firm, so does not compress. But name implies, it DAMS (blocks off). I'd assume they also aid to dam adhesive from go inside getting on molding. Also DAM to keep adhesive depth & width the same.
View attachment 3464388


QUESTION: What is first image trying to explain here? That glue should stick out? Or become "not sticking out"?
We do not want, is glue/adhesive blockage, between A pillar and glass (the water/rain channel) or on side-molding. So excess adhesive is scrape ("popsicle") out while wet. It's done at angle, to pushing adhesive under glass and away from A pillar. Most installer add adhesive to glass with a special gun. Some use same gun, and add adhesive to body rather than glass. Once windshield in place. Some adhesive may push/squish out near A pillars. So they remove excesses adhesive with popsicle stick. They calling it "popsicle sticking". Worth noting: The area between windshield and A pillar under and outside of molding, is a water channel that we do not want blocked with adhesive.
And then second and third question marks on picture. Should I cover edge of glass with glue? So, it should expand once installed, and I should use spatula to kind of smear it even with glass and try to make sure that edge also covered in glue? So as stated installer use a gun. FSM use of spatula, may also point to what DAMs used for. As DAM, would come in very handy, when using a spatula. Worth a note here, is bottom dam is set back further from edge. We need a space for lower molding clip, to fit under glass. The scraper if to remove adhesive that has gotten on top of glass. Since it would interfere with molding install. Using gun, not spatula. Scraper likely not going to be needed.

View attachment 3464389


QUESTION: As you see here, top trim glued as well. Multiple questions here..
If I do what displayed above, then area I highlighted below will be filled with glue and trim wouldn't go.
Picture below shows "new/unknown" glue applied and it doesn't show original urethane next to dam.
So, what it is?

And what is PN 08833-00030? I assume it's not urethane but something else I should use for the trim?
#12 That you'd have to search for info. But I assume the same, that it's urethane (AKA black poly). I'll also note, I've never seen adhesive applied after glass in. NOTE: Installer use Sika primer. Which is an, adhesion promoter. They add to glass and on body paint, before adding black poly. #13 upper molding. Every install I've seen. attach upper molding to glass before install. 1) Seems easier, 2) Installer's, once they have glass aligned. Place a piece of tape vertically, on each side (roof down onto glass), to keep glass from sliding down. They would noyt want to be push molding downward on glass. But again, they're not using OEM stoppers. BTW: They recommend tape stay on 24 hr's. Also at least one window remain open a bit. Which aids form build internal pressure, blowing out seal.
View attachment 3464391

FSM not always best method.


I'd assume your "tick" marks on glass, are center line. You can check this by measuring the body points they fit. You'll see a lip on other side of body, stopper fits in.
Note: Very Important. If not using the OEM stoppers. Plug the elongate hole in body. Place tape on underside of hole and fill top side with black poly, is one way I've seen done.

 

[katit]

First I've never installed nor seen OEM or OEM kit used. But I'll try and help.

Click to expand.

FSM not always best method.


I'd assume your "tick" marks on glass, are center line. You can check this by measuring the body points they fit. You'll see a lip on other side of body, stopper fits in.
Note: Very Important. If not using the OEM stoppers. Plug the elongate hole in body. Place tape on underside of hole and fill top side with black poly, is one way I've seen done.

Yes, sounds like FSM sucks in this particular example.
I think I see how those stoppers should go. You can literally "hang" glass on them. Which is nice. But there is no double tape and I need to figure out how to glue them to the windshield.

They are slightly thinner than dams. Dam is just rubbery square shaped strip that sticks to the glass. Which make sense.

Top moulding is a very good question! I see common pattern here.
Where do we get rust? Along top edge.

You talk about A-pillar and glass valley for drainage, and it's important. But what I see started happening on mine (and many others) - rust on top.

The only way I see this happening is simple: TOP MOULDING. There is no freaking way you can lay it so water won't get under. Car wash, hard rain, etc - water WILL get under it. And then, it will stay there because if glue is uneven - water will puddle and stay. Not much air to dry out. Nowhere to go.

I am trying to think what to do about it and the only way I see - glue it to the body as well. Install top trim AFTER glass and glue it in from both sides. Messy, but I can clean it up.

To illustrate, lets say we have urethane where RED is. It's uneven, even if you "popsickle" it - where "blue" - water can accumulate penetrating through the top. And no matter how good I cleaned and covered area with POR 15 - it will eventually rust.
If water never get's there - and blue are just air - it will be kind of sort of ventilated to the sides, but there will be no standing water and hopefully no rust.

 

[2001LC]

POR-15 properly applied. Should block H2O & O2 forever. From POR-15.
"POR-15®. Our state-of-the-art paint systems form an impenetrable barrier that protects surfaces from water, chemicals, salt, U.V."
The regular "rust POR-15". Does not have UV protection. It needs a Top Coat. I just tried a spray can of POR-15 Top Coat. I like it!

07 FSM clearly shows, filling void along top. Then installing top mold. Resulting in void filled.

 

[2001LC]

Are you using a new OEM windshield?

 

[katit]

POR-15 properly applied. Should block H2O & O2 forever. From POR-15.
"POR-15®. Our state-of-the-art paint systems form an impenetrable barrier that protects surfaces from water, chemicals, salt, U.V."
The regular "rust POR-15". Does not have UV protection. It needs a Top Coat. I just tried a spray can of POR-15 Top Coat. I like it!

07 FSM clearly shows, filling void along top. Then installing top mold. Result in void filled.

Yes it shows filling void, but it calls for special glue. By default there will be air pockets if trim installed with window as you described installers do.

Glue PN different, I searched but can’t find substitutes. However it is definitely something much more viscous than main urethane

No, I am not installing OE glass, didn’t want to spend that much. My main goal was to stop rust

 

[2001LC]

I'm wondering, if OEM glass has any sort of pockets/dimples for stoppers.

 

[katit]

I'm wondering, if OEM glass has any sort of pockets/dimples for stoppers.

Good Q. Maybe alignment marks like in FSM. This glass I got have mirror base already glued on.