merbesfield
SILVER Star
Pure genius. So simple but so smart. Thx
100 series Windshield Replacement Question: OEM vs. After Market Glass
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Pure genius. So simple but so smart. Thx
Definitely use someone who is familiar with 100 windshields. I used Safelite and the new windshield does not fit the same- the window for the VIN# does not align correctly for which I cannot even see the VIN, and I can visibly see some black butyl adhesive along the top edge which looks like the new glass is about 1/2" shorter than the original. the worst part, they damaged my dashboard attempting to jack the front windshield out without removing the rivets. The damage to my dash is minimal, which left a slight depression on the dash from all the pressure they applied. A few days later I noticed a 1/4" gap between the dash and the trim piece over the factory radio. Apparently the jack pressure on my dash must have s***ed things around underneath. Additionally, they did not bring the plastic trim pieces that go along the exterior sides to cover the rivets, they had thrown them away which I found later in my trash can. I complained about their work and they knocked $100 off the install. I used a heat gun to re-shape the plastic side trims and was able to re-install with satisfactory results- I believe I can pull the dash and straighten out whatever they bent under there. Next time around I would rather pay top dollar and have it done right with new mouldings and trim. At the very least, inform your installer of the rivets and purchase new side trim from the dealer.
I just ordered all these parts and postponed the Safelite installation until they are on hand. Hoping for the best.
What a great video showing a windshield install and what to watch for:
merbesfield
SILVER Star
This is a man that takes great pride in his work. Rare these days. Where is he located?
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Corona, CA
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I heard that at the end of the video. Wish he was in Atlanta. Does anyone know of someone like this in ATL?
2001LC
SILVER Star
I started below critic, to tear him apart. But I can't!, He's good. Nice job Alfredo!
I'd use this guy, in a heartbeat. I learned a few things from watching him, and few things I do a little different. But he's one of the best I've seen on a 100 series.
Tips:
To install exterior side molding, lining up easy, fast and perfect ever time (even in the dark shadows of a shop):
Tab pulled from tape tape, rivet not set as you can see it's shaft stick out. Perfect alignment every time and fast
I'd use this guy, in a heartbeat. I learned a few things from watching him, and few things I do a little different. But he's one of the best I've seen on a 100 series.
- He uses seat, fender skits protectors and wears an apron to protect paint. First clue he's a pro that cares.
- Using metal tools on body paint to remove front molding clips under the hood can scratch paint. He took care and use coated metal clip remover. Nice!
- JIS screws driver are best for mirror. I've seen so many mirrors loose/wobbling. That when I go into sung the two small screws, the heads are damage making difficult to sung if not impossible. This is due to use of SAE screw drivers or worn out screw driver heads. He keeps one screw driver just for those little guys, good for him. This is number one reason, I bought set of Vessel JIS screw driver, love them. For those and a few other interior screws, of which those two little guys are most important for.
- He was careful to only drill heads of rivets off, not punching through except once (it happens). Again he was so right here to use caution not to damage molding or more importantly, enlarge rivet hold A pillar or body paint.
- While pulling molding off, taking care to not bending metal backbone, is key. He was careful. Had it been stuck on better or glued in with black poly. The plastic scraper he used to clean "glue" and dirt later, can be used by slipping between molding and body's water canal and cut through glue.
- He stated "cut"and it appears he cut out glass. This I do not like to see. As everyone I've seen done with long handle cold knife, body paint gets multiple nick/cut to metal. It's the nicks/cuts in paint to metal that are the biggest concern I have. Moisture is held in for long duration, under the molding. This is the leading cause of under windshield rust. It's bad enough black poly must be knocked down with a razor, which almost always nicks the paint on body bump-outs along roof line. Although I've not seen a power bladed used, only the hand held long handle knife. Looking a Andy's You tube page. I see he uses cordless cold knife.
- I really like, he worked to clean out water canal under molding and not to damage paint or body seam sealant. I keep a tube of 3M seam sealant around, just in case I damage the seam. When factory double sided tape used, it only takes minutes to clean and is easy not to damage paint or seam. But when black polyurethane used to glue down molding, it's a real PITA that takes a lot of time and care to clean up area. I hate it when lazy installer glue down molding, which causes so many problems for the next guy and blocks the water channel which promotes rust
- He talked about using care cutting glass out, not to damage interior side molding. Great! But IMHO it's better to just remove the interior molding. That way, it will not be damage nor will black poly during install glue it to glass.
- Very nice they way he ground out rust. Strange I've never seen a factory install have rust.
- Very nice the way he cleaned up side molding, in prep for double side tape and install to butt clean and tight too A pillars. Cleaning it and body is so import. He use the same double sided tape I do. 1/2" 3M, good stuff.
- Great tip adding the spacer on sides of body so glass does not sink in to much. This I've never seen anyone do, unless factory kit used. I'll add that one to my good practice list. For one, that "sinking" mushes black poly out, to point it glues interior molding to glass and/or interferes with molding during install. I'd not considered it could also create air gaps, not sure how that would happen..HUH. Spacers, would also help so exterior side mold will fit sung to glass, not leaving gaps. Perhaps that's what Alfredo meant.
- I see rivet holes on body, have black primer in and around the holes. Very nice and the way it should be done. I like epoxy primer or POR-15 here. But those take a long cure times, which installer can't afford to let sit a day for tying up shop space. So my gues is he used Sika black primer, which is a poly adhesion promoter first and a (poor) metal primer second. But drys fast. Sika states can be used on body metal, but is no substitute for factory paint. Sika does have others primers that aren't black and better for bear metal application.
- I like to put exterior side molding on before bottom molding. As he said " be careful not to scratch". Which happens very often if bottom molding installed before side molding. The side molding metal backbone will dig into paint as we try to sneak in around bottom molding.
- One thing he may have done (not shown in video), or not needed to do. If just the right amount of black poly used and with his use of spacers. Is to Popsicle stick out any black poly that mushes into side molding channel. We need a nice clear channel for water to flow under molding. It's number one reason to not glue in molding. Number two reason, it's a PITA for next guy, as molding likely damaged during removal.
Tips:
To install exterior side molding, lining up easy, fast and perfect ever time (even in the dark shadows of a shop):
- Install side molding, before bottom molding.
- Do not remove backing from double side tape yet. Just peal back a corner, creating a tab to grab later. Place molding in position and place in a rivet or all 4. You can set a or all rivet(s) at this point or not. I do not set rivets yet. I just use them to center molding. Than once rivets in place centering molding. I grab the little tab of tape backing and pull off as I press down on molding, sticking down tape to body. I then set rivets which i do last, just in case issue with tape. I use corrugated cardboard to protect glass from rivet tool shock or scratches. As I fear shock would otherwise transfer into glass and fracture it.
Tab pulled from tape tape, rivet not set as you can see it's shaft stick out. Perfect alignment every time and fast
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merbesfield
SILVER Star
Well you are closer than CA, but still CO is too far to drive from ATL for a windshield replacement.
Very informative, and thanks for the follow-up comments and tips. Like @merbesfield, I'm too far away from both of y'all (I'm in MS), so I hope I can find someone who will take the time to follow the video / your suggestions, and do the job correctly. I'm in need right now for replacements in an '06 LX and an '00 Land Cruiser.
All that being said, what do you recommend doing for replacement when some previous installer installed screws vs. rivets? I know this was done in at least my Land Cruiser (not sure about the LX yet), so I have to assume either/both the side trims and body holes are now bigger than what they should be for rivet replacement. I surely don't want to go back with screws, so am I now required to just finding suitable larger rivets?
Agreed. We used to have some qualified installers here in town (Jackson, MS), but I'm not sure if any are still installing.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Well.... I don't do install at this time anyway.
Any I own, that have screws. I pull molding off. I plug holes with butyl, to keep out water. Before install, I de-rust and paint. If holes enlarged, I paint with POR-15 to reduce hole size. I'll put up to 3 or 4 coats of paint to reduce ID of hole, sizing with OEM rivet before each coat. If hole to large, I'll use oversize rivets. Either rivet I use, is aluminium plastic coated/sleeved. Toyota has a few sizes, just stop by local Toyota or Lexus dealership. Also some installer carry these also.
I remove & install all molding myself, including pulling interior side molding. I'm in installers shop during install, watching if not also helping.
I've never dealt with any films, so can't help.
I did recently hear of some install shop on South Broadway (Denver), that said to do a good job. But sorry I don't know the name of the shop, nor if really good job.
Myself. I pull molding, and if I see any rust once molding pulled. I DE-Rust. Which if any more than mild spot surface rust. Means pulling windshield and removing all black poly and paint to bare metal. Than paint with epoxy primer and POR-15
See: The King
In my master thread, look under windshield for more post regarding windshields. By watch above video from Alfredo, and others, reading up on windshield install and pitfalls. You then will be armed Knowledge of what needs done and whats is a proper install.
I did just buy a rope type windshield removal tool. Not used or even learn how to yet. Reason was, so I can pull my own windshield and de-rust & paint. I may eventually do installs. For now installer love to see me pull up. I do most of their work for them, but the charge the same regardless. I hand them a cake install 30 minute job.
Wind noise??? That's EXACTLY why you need a proper installer putting in NOTHING but OEM glass (or Pilkington). I had my windshield replaced on my '98 LX and had the wind whistle occur while on the highway...that's when you can really hear it. It was replaced. Needed a replacement on my '04 LX...As I had just mentioned to the insurance adjuster who sent these dudes out, you have to use OEM..."Nah...I worked for Mantup Lexus and we never had a problem". OK guys, would you like to do this job once, or twice? They went ahead and put in the aftermarket they'd been given. As I knew, the whistle started the first time I drove it at speed. ( They sent out a different couple of installers with OEM glass to do the replacement.)
My windshield got repaired (it was chip), so I sold all these parts needed to replace to a lucky Mudder (I had shopped for them pretty well and then marked 'em down another 25%
). Shoulda held on to them; the chip repair failed about a month later and I need a windshield replace. My insurance company (Geico) works through Safelite primarily, but they'll work with just about anybody if you want to do the legwork. I asked for Lexus glass and they agreed, but trying to reach a tech through Safelite's national customer service desk to discuss the work doesn't really work.
Tech arrived today (supply chain issues had resulted in a months-long wait for the glass) with the right Lexus glass, but no rivets. Fortunately, a senior tech had given him a heads-up about how he would have to drill out the existing holes and use self-tapping screws.
Tech was a great guy and jumped at the opportunity to *not* do that. I've ordered all the parts again and I'm going to take it into his shop in two weeks. He also gave me a direct telephone number to his shop. He had not received any of the messages I had tried to convey through customer service.
So:
- Not a bad idea to source all the stuff but the glass yourself
- The rivet gun issue can be a problem - maybe better to go to a shop than have them come to you where they have a chance to have the right tool
I have a Safelite appointment next week. I talked with the tech who was replacing the windshield on my Jeep last week. I asked him about the rivets and rust. He took the time to show me the drill bit attachment he uses to remove the rivets and the assortment of new rivets. Fingers crossed.
The windshield on my 2006 LX, which appears to be original (Florida truck from 2006-2019) cracked this weekend after a crazy temperature swing combined with snow and ice here in Colorado.
My insurance provider uses Safelite, which reading through this thread I am not excited to use, despite Safelite doing good work in the past on minor chips and cracks.
Anyone have ideas on a shop in Boulder or Longmont, or will I need to travel to Denver?
My insurance provider uses Safelite, which reading through this thread I am not excited to use, despite Safelite doing good work in the past on minor chips and cracks.
Anyone have ideas on a shop in Boulder or Longmont, or will I need to travel to Denver?
I’m waiting for an appointment with Safelite next week. They had the Lexus glass for the appointment scheduled a couple of weeks ago, but nothing else. I ordered Toyota rivets, dams, molding and clips for the hood louvre. The stoppers (which the FSM recommends be replaced) seem to be tough to get.
I feel pretty good about the guys doing the work after having done conversations with the real people (rather than the national answering service, which relayed none of my concerns to the field).
Safelite is here now. Said the rivet holes were too big for the 100 series rivets, but that the Camry rivets I bought (based on someone's experience here) fit like they were made for it, leading the installer to believe that the last installer used them instead of the 100 series rivets. More reasons to love this forum.
Installer wouldn't use the Toyota upper molding - says it flies off - so he used one of his own. (The previous molding did fly off after the previous dealer install that was done just prior to my purchase, which made me skeptical/worried about the entire install. But things looked pretty good underneath when the broken windshield came off - a couple really small rust spots by two rivet holes that were primed up.)
I bought Lexus glass, and it came with the stoppers (which I had purchased separately from a local dealer, and didn't have to provide).
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Good evening.
Anyone have a parts list of what’s needed for the windshield replacement? I got a crack that is just spreading by the day.
I would like to source out the dams and seals (Windshield Stoppers) before tackling this job.
Thanks in advanced.
Anyone have a parts list of what’s needed for the windshield replacement? I got a crack that is just spreading by the day.
I would like to source out the dams and seals (Windshield Stoppers) before tackling this job.
Thanks in advanced.
Post #93 in this thread.
