100 Series Timing Belt and Water Pump Service Tips and Pointers Wanted

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Les Summer

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Apr 16, 2023
Threads
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Location
Baltimore, MD
In this picture, is that the engine serial number I see under the throttle body, and will it confirm the year of the engine?
I recently purchased a 2000 Land Cruiser, and I anticipate doing the timing belt on the truck in my future. I want to make solidly sure the engine was never replaced for when the time comes I need to set the cams at the correct marks for removing the timing belt.

I'll take any advice I can get for when the time comes to do this job. It's critical I don't make any mistakes, so I'm listening to anyone who has done this job and can give sage advice about things I might not be able to imagine or anticipate. I searched the forum on this topic, but no-one has created a thread and worded it quite like I have here. I'm not looking for a write up on the whole job, this thread is specifically asking for the outliers. The problems you just can't imagine were coming.

Stuck things, special tools you should have had on hand, special parts to keep on hand just in case, etc. Also, if you reply here, can you please follow this thread? I might come back here if in the future I'm in the middle of this job, and need emergency feedback. Thank you to anyone. Lester.

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Remove only front two bolts from AC compressor. Don't even loosen the rear (3rd) bolt, as no need.
Upper AC front bolt, from above.
Lower AC front bolt, from below.
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What tool did you use besides the extensions?

Did you need a swivel 14mm head?
 
I do use a universal at times, sometimes just extension with 14MM socket on the end.

If vehicle raised a little, like when lifted, on stands, AHC in H and wheel turned a little to left. It's a near straight shot. Some of these bolts, are vey tight, which straight shot is best then best.

I've even worked, from front of frame. Which then a universal, is a must. But when at angle, I avoid excessive pressure, as sockets can slip off damaging head of bolt.
AC bolt (2).JPG

When I torque the bolt back in, I do like a straight shot.
AC bolt (3).JPG
 
I find it easy and relaxing. But I've good assortment of tools and years of experience on using them. I've also done more 4.7L timing belts, then I can remember. Did another just last week.

BTW: I do not replace crank or cam seals, unless leaking.
You've 2006, so a VVT engine. These, we must use a bit more caution during the service. So make sure you know what you're doing.
 
I made some progress!
Top compressor front bolt removed, I accessed that from on top of the truck with a swivel head ratchet. The bolt is too long to take out as it hits the body frame when I try take it out, so I just left it in the ac compressor hole loose.

Bottom compressor has two bolts (it's on a bracket), I got the upper one on the bottom removed, I wiggled a extension from under the truck.
But I'm trying to get the bottom front lower bolt off, but it's really hard to get to, the oil cooler has a rubber hose blocking the way. How'd you get that one out? I think I need to buy a small 14mm universal and directly attach that to my extension. I have a 3/8 to 3/8 universal joint, which then I need to add a normal 14mm socket head on, I think that's taking too much space.

**EDIT: I took my oil filter out to make space, and find that bottom screw is not 14mm it's 12mm. I think I will look for a universal 12mm as the angle is too much point down.

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Do not remove the 12mm bolt. You've no reason to remove the AC compressor. You are only removing the AC's 2 front 14mm bolt, which go through it and into the fan bracket. It's the fan bracket you'll be removing.

You're struggling with a relative easy part of the job. These two bolts, two wire connect housing block you'll unplug and a bracket you'll need to bend out of the way. Only takes 5 to 7 minutes max.

I feel you've jump into the job, without proper review. Many threads and video's in ih8mud and online. I suggest to stop and review them. This thread is tips and pointers. You'll find other threads, much more of a step by step. I suggest you review them end (removal) to end (install).
You need to understand, your cam sprockets are different (VVT), then most threads or videos you'll find. Do not touch any bolt on the cam sprocket. You also must use specials care, so you do not cause interference (contact between valves and pistons).

Wire connecting housing blocks unplugged. Bracket behind them not yet bent out of the way.

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Notice lower right. A bracket behind wires, is now bent out if the way.
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Thanks guys I got it out.

Turns out the AC Compressor front bottom 14mm long bolt I actually was supposed to take out, was hidden behind the mounting bracket for the AC compressor and I was fiddling with the wrong bolts before. I ended up removing the long 12mm on that bracket, but didn't need to, so I'll put it back (the swivel 12mm was very useful I have to say).

The lower front AC compressor bolt got out easily with a 14mm swivel head and a 20" fat 1/2" extension, using the steering rack hole. I had to use a breaker bar it was super tight so used 1/2" to prevent twisting of extension.

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I saw the rear AC compressor bolt when I got under and looked behind the axle. But decided to try removing the fan bracket without removing the rear bolt...

On the fan bracket, I unplugged the connector mounted on the ac compressor so I can bend the metal out of the way of the fan bracket.

Got my rubber deadblow and hit the fan bracket in a few joint areas.

Then she came out!

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IMG_5390.jpeg

Was pretty easy actually now that I figured it out. Just two front AC compressor bolts, ( no need to do rear ac compressor bolt!) and bending the metal on by the fan bracket.

The old fan bracket was really bad condition. Glad to do it.






**EDIT
for anyone doing this here's a pic I found from a clearer youtube video showing the bottom screws for AC compressor with the 3 screws.

The one screw in red arrow is the one you want to remove to loosen the fan bracket, that's the long 14mm mounting AC compressor to fan bracket

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