You're doing the right thing. This vehicle belongs in the hands of someone who is willing to do most of the work themselves, and has the ability to do the work or the desire to learn. It's a lot cheaper that way and they can call it a hobby.
$2,800 to replace timing belt and water pump? (1 Viewer)
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It was my hobby and cherished possession for many years, but last couple of years it has become a simple transport rig shared with family. I just checked the title I bought it used in 2007 with 24K mi on it. Best car I have ever owned, bar none.
Having spent time at Otramm.. the issue with these rigs is that at 20+ years old. everyone is asking / wanting close to 20K for them. They are worth that if at least 10 of the 15 typically maintenance items have been done and no rust issues. .. They had 3 BAT rigs in their lot where folks way over-paid. Where there was Rust plus only 2 of 15 maintenance items had been done.. there is a YouTube video with the 15 items.. I can't find the screenshot I took . with most of them at 20 years / 200K miles.. if low / now rust and 10of 15 items already done.. they can be a great buy... BUT.. most are like yours.. too much deferred maintenance + rust = money pit. A flipper will take your truck.. pretty up the underside / and post and try to get 20K.. sell it for 15K.. and tell the person they got a deal. Your truck will require $10-$15,000 of work to make right / and reliable for family daily usage. Mine has 200K miles.. I just dropped $6K into mine.. in 2024.. doing some of the below. from memory here is the checklist / I am sure I missed something.. they ALL need this to be a wife driven daily.
TB/WP
Drive axles/flanges
all bushings
AC / stuff (compressor/ lines, etc)
radiator
AHC flush and globes (few shops will touch this including Otramm.. I do oil changes and AHC service myself).. AHC parts are cheap these days.
Brake booster
Steering rack / pump (whole new steering)
steering lines
Ball joints
Diff bushings
Fuel pump
Leather for seats
refurb steering wheel.
CarPlay head unit.
Brakes /
caliper rebuilds
New power lock actuators (they are cheap.. but require taking apart the mechanisms)
Other stuff - not done but are popping up.
(many are needing head gaskets these days
TB/WP
Drive axles/flanges
all bushings
AC / stuff (compressor/ lines, etc)
radiator
AHC flush and globes (few shops will touch this including Otramm.. I do oil changes and AHC service myself).. AHC parts are cheap these days.
Brake booster
Steering rack / pump (whole new steering)
steering lines
Ball joints
Diff bushings
Fuel pump
Leather for seats
refurb steering wheel.
CarPlay head unit.
Brakes /
caliper rebuilds
New power lock actuators (they are cheap.. but require taking apart the mechanisms)
Other stuff - not done but are popping up.
(many are needing head gaskets these days
My 06 470 only goes to OTRAMM. Those guys are solid, and will shoot you straight every time.OK, I've talked to the OTRAMM team - no complaints on them - they seem like stand up people and certainly know what they are talking about, even if they aren't cheap- I think this might be the time to sell this car. I'm overseas, I don't have the time and ability to fix this rig. Time to sell it - let me know if anyone wants 2006 Land Cruiser
Big kudos to everyone who helped with advice in this thread!
This post was a fun read all four pages. I got my truck (2003) with 120k miles on it bought it sight unseen from Boston had it shipped Cali in 2015. I was so geeked to get one for Less than 30k which is what everyone wanted for one here in SoCal at the time that I didn’t read about rust and east coast salt, etc. when I looked up at it in the transport truck the day it arrived and it was a lighter shade of
Brown underneath I did a big gulp of regret.
Lots of folks on the board say run from rust which second time around back in 2015 I would but in todays market, factor what you can conceivably buy for 20k somewhat baselined or 7-12k and have it baselined on your coin. I took mine to a Japanese car Indy shop in Costa Mesa bought all the parts nearly identical to the list ottram quoted op and paid a shop $600 to replace it all but that labor intensive seal. Swapped tensioner when got bigger stereo alt. Fluid exchanges can’t remember cost
now, 9 years later it’s still running strong and my son loves it.
If you can’t wrench or don’t know have a friend mechanic who is also Toyota lc competent, you’re going to pay market rates for their labor and expertise. Peace of mind with current quote is that at least you know the person working on it has a certain level of affection for your vehicle type and there’s a good chance his repeat experience will keep you in the vehicle and out the shop a wee bit longer than a guy who doesn’t distinguish your truck over anything else behind his rollup doors.
However, given that a person on this forum has seen your truck at the shop and commented that it’s seen better days, might be worth it to find another one that is worthy of that baseline since basically most being sold by anyone other then an enthusiast is doing so becuase of the “big”
Quote they received to maintenance whatever the mechanic or service records called for. Perfect example is the brakes once your rotors are out of spec
Brown underneath I did a big gulp of regret.
Lots of folks on the board say run from rust which second time around back in 2015 I would but in todays market, factor what you can conceivably buy for 20k somewhat baselined or 7-12k and have it baselined on your coin. I took mine to a Japanese car Indy shop in Costa Mesa bought all the parts nearly identical to the list ottram quoted op and paid a shop $600 to replace it all but that labor intensive seal. Swapped tensioner when got bigger stereo alt. Fluid exchanges can’t remember cost
now, 9 years later it’s still running strong and my son loves it.
If you can’t wrench or don’t know have a friend mechanic who is also Toyota lc competent, you’re going to pay market rates for their labor and expertise. Peace of mind with current quote is that at least you know the person working on it has a certain level of affection for your vehicle type and there’s a good chance his repeat experience will keep you in the vehicle and out the shop a wee bit longer than a guy who doesn’t distinguish your truck over anything else behind his rollup doors.
However, given that a person on this forum has seen your truck at the shop and commented that it’s seen better days, might be worth it to find another one that is worthy of that baseline since basically most being sold by anyone other then an enthusiast is doing so becuase of the “big”
Quote they received to maintenance whatever the mechanic or service records called for. Perfect example is the brakes once your rotors are out of spec
Most of these components last a very very long time on a LC, or any Toyota.
