Just replaced timing belt and water pump and now crank with no start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Threads
7
Messages
40
Location
Austin
Hey community!

TLDR- wondering if left cam timing being off by 1mm will prevent engine from starting. It is not by a tooth, the timing mark on the left cam is just not perfectly centered.

Right before Christmas I had some coolant leaking from my bottom timing belt cover. I figured it was my water pump so I dug in. I replaced my water pump gasket and timing belt and put it all back together but my pump was still leaking and it would not start, just crank.

I took it apart again and replaced the water pump with a kit, so I got new pulley, gaskets, bolts, etc. The water pump is no longer leaking when I tried to crank the car, but I’m still getting crank with no start.

I did the timing on this at least six times. Each time I would get the belt on, the left Cam would move a millimeter (or less) in order for the belt mark to reach the right Cam. I even bought a new timing belt for it just to make sure and the same thing happened. I even warmed the belt up to see if I could get enough stretch, but I kept getting the same thing. I figured it was due to parallax so finally said it was probably good enough.

I just got it back together for the second time and I’m still not getting it to start.

I rotated the engine several times by hand and it did not feel like it was sticking or having any troubles moving and each time my timing marks lined up exactly where they were where I started. And again, the right Cam was basically perfectly lined up, but the left cam was off by maybe a millimeter from the timing mark being completely dead centered.

I recently bought a kit for the EFI relay bypass that solved this issue before, so I may have accidentally blew that out while I was taking this apart. (I forgot to disconnect the battery and touched the positive terminal with a wrench and I got a spark.) I’m just super paranoid that even though I did the timing on this so many times I may have still messed it up.😅.

thanks for reading!!!
 
Likely EFI jumper blew, since shorted the positive. Did you check the fuse in the jumper?

Pictures, of timing marks?

Which is LEFT CAM? Many are confused by markings LH & RH on belt.

Did you pull the retainer pin, from the tensioner?

What's year & miles?
 
Last edited:
Hey community!

TLDR- wondering if left cam timing being off by 1mm will prevent engine from starting. It is not by a tooth, the timing mark on the left cam is just not perfectly centered.

Right before Christmas I had some coolant leaking from my bottom timing belt cover. I figured it was my water pump so I dug in. I replaced my water pump gasket and timing belt and put it all back together but my pump was still leaking and it would not start, just crank.

I took it apart again and replaced the water pump with a kit, so I got new pulley, gaskets, bolts, etc. The water pump is no longer leaking when I tried to crank the car, but I’m still getting crank with no start.

I did the timing on this at least six times. Each time I would get the belt on, the left Cam would move a millimeter (or less) in order for the belt mark to reach the right Cam. I even bought a new timing belt for it just to make sure and the same thing happened. I even warmed the belt up to see if I could get enough stretch, but I kept getting the same thing. I figured it was due to parallax so finally said it was probably good enough.

I just got it back together for the second time and I’m still not getting it to start.

I rotated the engine several times by hand and it did not feel like it was sticking or having any troubles moving and each time my timing marks lined up exactly where they were where I started. And again, the right Cam was basically perfectly lined up, but the left cam was off by maybe a millimeter from the timing mark being completely dead centered.

I recently bought a kit for the EFI relay bypass that solved this issue before, so I may have accidentally blew that out while I was taking this apart. (I forgot to disconnect the battery and touched the positive terminal with a wrench and I got a spark.) I’m just super paranoid that even though I did the timing on this so many times I may have still messed it up.😅.

thanks for reading!!!
Check the wiring to your cam position sensor. Have seen them damaged many times after timing belt service.
 
@2001LC and @Teddy, thanks guys! I think I figured out the problem…

Here are the pics as requested. I am pretty sure I used the wrong marks on the cams😩

The worst part is, I’ve done this before😅 it has been about six years but believe I did the same thing last time as well😂

If you look at the images, I used the solid bar as the timing mark and not the notch. I got it taken back apart last night and will try again using the notches this time and let you all know how it goes👍
IMG_6048.jpeg
IMG_6046.jpeg
IMG_6047.jpeg
 
You did.
Looks like it's over where I circled in red:
IMG_6046.jpeg


I asked you: "Which is LEFT CAM? Many are confused by markings LH & RH on belt."
This is important, when installing a new belt. RH is your right when sitting in driver set.
RH is BK2. LH is BK1

You should turn the crank bolt CW, not the cam bolt.

I use the hard marks on crank sprocket/oil pump.

IMG_9338.JPEG

IMG_9326.JPEG

IMG_9328.JPEG
 
You did.
Looks like it's over where I circled in red:
View attachment 3806905

I asked you: "Which is LEFT CAM? Many are confused by markings LH & RH on belt."
This is important, when installing a new belt. RH is your right when sitting in driver set.
RH is BK2. LH is BK1

You should turn the crank bolt CW, not the cam bolt.

I use the hard marks on crank sprocket/oil pump.

View attachment 3806915
View attachment 3806911
View attachment 3806914
Perfect! Thank you @2001LC!!!

I actually saw one of your other threads and that’s how I knew I had messed this up😅

I REALLY appreciate your swing of wisdom!!!
 
For people looking for answers here- if your timing marks are good all your sensors etc look good- it could be that your crank sensor plate (the brass disc behind the crank pulley) is on backwards.

Its dished outward, and today I had it on wrong and I had a crank no start until i flipped it, so hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Edit: you can get at it from under the vehicle without taking off the fan bracket, tensioner, etc.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom