100 Series Timing Belt and Water Pump Service Tips and Pointers Wanted (1 Viewer)

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Les Summer

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In this picture, is that the engine serial number I see under the throttle body, and will it confirm the year of the engine?
I recently purchased a 2000 Land Cruiser, and I anticipate doing the timing belt on the truck in my future. I want to make solidly sure the engine was never replaced for when the time comes I need to set the cams at the correct marks for removing the timing belt.

I'll take any advice I can get for when the time comes to do this job. It's critical I don't make any mistakes, so I'm listening to anyone who has done this job and can give sage advice about things I might not be able to imagine or anticipate. I searched the forum on this topic, but no-one has created a thread and worded it quite like I have here. I'm not looking for a write up on the whole job, this thread is specifically asking for the outliers. The problems you just can't imagine were coming.

Stuck things, special tools you should have had on hand, special parts to keep on hand just in case, etc. Also, if you reply here, can you please follow this thread? I might come back here if in the future I'm in the middle of this job, and need emergency feedback. Thank you to anyone. Lester.

54335262.WaitingForATimingBelt.JPG
 
In this picture, is that the engine serial number I see under the throttle body, and will it confirm the year of the engine?
I recently purchased a 2000 Land Cruiser, and I anticipate doing the timing belt on the truck in my future. I want to make solidly sure the engine was never replaced for when the time comes I need to set the cams at the correct marks for removing the timing belt.

I'll take any advice I can get for when the time comes to do this job. It's critical I don't make any mistakes, so I'm listening to anyone who has done this job and can give sage advice about things I might not be able to imagine or anticipate. I searched the forum on this topic, but no-one has created a thread and worded it quite like I have here. I'm not looking for a write up on the whole job, this thread is specifically asking for the outliers. The problems you just can't imagine were coming.

Stuck things, special tools you should have had on hand, special parts to keep on hand just in case, etc. Also, if you reply here, can you please follow this thread? I might come back here if in the future I'm in the middle of this job, and need emergency feedback. Thank you to anyone. Lester.

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In the highly unlikely case the motor has been replaced, it's going to have been replaced with a motor from the same year range. But to confirm just make sure the VINs match. There are VINs stamped on the chassis, windshield location and motor.


I always remove the radiator for this job. Some don't. I like the extra room and that I've never broken a radiator doing a timing belt.

Tools that make it easier:

1/2" impact wrench. My cordless makes quick work of the crank pulley bolt and you fly through part of the job people struggle with. Just a good tool to have for working on a cruiser.

Lots of 3/8 extensions, including a few wobble extensions. These make removing the AC compressor bolts through the wheel well a piece of cake.

Good torque wrench is a must, and follow specs during reassembly particularly for good seal on water pump.

Buy an AISIN water pump kit from a reputable source. I replaced the fan pulley bracket, tensioner pulley assembly, and idler pulleys on the serpentine belt every time when I don't know prior history.

Get a Toyota tensioner assembly bolt as it has sealant on it. It's a one time use part.

The early cruisers are easy to do belts on, it's pretty straight forward when you get started. The key is organization. I use a big piece of cardboard and a permanent marker. As I remove a part, it goes into the cardboard in sequential order and is labeled. Reverse to reinstall.
 
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Just adding to this (there are a ton of threads out there so trying to keep this unique to my experience and opinion):

I do timing belt service along with a refresh of my cooling system as I do my timing belts at 90-100k and coolant flushes every 50k. It's a natural thing to couple with the timing belt service in my opinion. I do NOT couple other service with the timing belt such as injectors, spark plugs, etc. This is because I want to attribute any change in behavior of the motor after the t-belt service directly with the work I just did, and not have other variables to eliminate. A bad coil pack and a timing belt off by a few teeth will have a very similar behavior and make it hard to track down.

1. I do a coolant flush, thermostat, and radiator hoses, and new clamps every timing belt job. Toyota OEM hoses last a LONG time - I worked on a Sequoia 2UZ that had 300k on original hoses. That being said I often just use a quality made in US product for 1/5th the cost of Toyota and doing them every 100k I never see any ballooning or cracking like I see on hoses pushed further.
2. Use new Toyota Radiator Hose Clamps with new hoses. The spring fatigues overtime and the old hoses also have a memory in them. I personally have not gotten a good seal from new hoses with old clamps, or old hoses with new clamps.
3. having the radiator out for this work is a good opportunity to inspect it, and if its good - spray it with some foaming AC Condensor cleaner a couple times and rinse all the junk out of it.
4. Make sure you do your heater T's and hoses if they haven't been. This is a good opportunity as no coolant mess.
5. If anything but Asian coolant (pink or red) are in the motor, you can flush it with distilled water and then put fresh Asian coolant in. I personally like the Beck Arnley concentrate which I dilute 50/50 with distilled as it is very cost effective and compatible.

Ordering from Toyota Parts online through a dealership like McGeorge, Sparks, Stevinson, etc. you have an option to put your VIN in at checkout and this will confirm everything you're order is a direct fit. Cross shop the Toyota parts as Toyota does NOT regulate dealer prices and they vary greatly.

There are great deals on these parts and components through Rock Auto as well. They carry the concentrate coolant and are a known genuine source for AISIN components.

Some "special parts" to keep on hand really are just if you're removing the alternator; in which case get the female side harness connector as they break.

If its your first time doing the timing belt on a vehicle with known deferred maintenance, plan to replace some or many of the vacuum hoses.
 
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I’ve read these replies intently. Good stuff!!

I plan on only using oem toyota parts. I agree removing the rad is a great plan. Replacing hoses also sounds like sage advice. I plan to buy a topside creeper, and I already own a Milwaukee beast 1/2 impact. I plan on staying on this thread throughout. I truly appreciate the responses!!

I already bought Toyota coolant. I have a Napa Carlyle torque wrench, hmm.. what else? I am still gathering parts. I am stressed about where to have the cams pointed for removal of the timing belt. Original shop manuals are stupid expensive just to tell me that. It sounds like someone has already advised it’s top dead center, but I want to be sure. Also, it was mentioned, the vin number on the motor, but where is that located? I too doubt the motor was replaced.

My response here to this thread could have been better, but I’m at work on a short break, so pardon if I sound like rambling, I’m just trying to acknowledge all the much appreciated input. Please follow this thread. Although I may leave it for a while, I’ll positively return to add more to it. Thanks again all.
 
All 4.7L 2UZ-fe use same timing belt components, even the VVT. The only difference is VVT cam seals, which you do not have (pictured).

I agree with TM. This best in thread, where many issues and fine points are already covered. Which there are many. Here's just 3:
 
All 4.7L 2UZ-fe use same timing belt components, even the VVT. The only difference is VVT cam seals, which you do not have (pictured).

I agree with TM. This best in thread, where many issues and fine points are already covered. Which there are many. Here's just 3:
Oh thank you, I tried to use key words when I started the thread, like service, timing belt, water pump, and when I enter any of those terms in the search bar, with 100 series in front of it, my thread populates near the top. This makes it easy for people to find. I tried to only use the Most straight forward words for my title, so there is no confusion over what the thread is about. If you or trunk munkey have anything you can input here that would be useful, I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
It’s not hard, just give yourself a good amount of clean counter space and stay organized. The only specialized tool I needed to buy was a crank pulley puller. Whether or not other parts need to be replaced “while you’re in there” depends on prior maintenance.
 
It’s not hard, just give yourself a good amount of clean counter space and stay organized. The only specialized tool I needed to buy was a crank pulley puller. Whether or not other parts need to be replaced “while you’re in there” depends on prior maintenance.
thanks for the support. 🙂
 
There is a serious problem if this is a outlier question
There is a serious problem if this is an outlier question.
If I'm breaking any forum rules, then I will correct it, and I'm sure a moderator will let me know. Not a problem. Otherwise, please keep comments on my threads either productive or friendly, or both, and I will do the same. Thanks.
 
If I'm breaking any forum rules, then I will correct it, and I'm sure a moderator will let me know. Not a problem. Otherwise, please keep comments on my threads either productive or friendly, or both, and I will do the same. Thanks.
I didn't say you broke any rules. As a friendly reminder, you started this thread by saying you have searched and this thread is specifically asking for the outliers. Asking if AISIN TKT021 from Rock Auto is the right kit doesn't seem like an outlier. If you search TKT021, you will find 22 hits from this forum. If this is indeed an outlier issue for you, then I recommend you do more search and reading.
 
I didn't say you broke any rules. As a friendly reminder, you started this thread by saying you have searched and this thread is specifically asking for the outliers. Asking if AISIN TKT021 from Rock Auto is the right kit doesn't seem like an outlier. If you search TKT021, you will find 22 hits from this forum. If this is indeed an outlier issue for you, then I recommend you do more search and reading.
ok cool. I will definitely check out the ASIN part number in search, why didn't I think of that? Thanks.
 
Ok, if anyone makes it down this far in this thread, maybe you can help me with a concern. I am planning a timing belt water pump job in the near future. What happens if I accidentally, for some reason, turn the crank before I get the timing belt back on, how do I put it back to its correct position?
 
Ok, if anyone makes it down this far in this thread, maybe you can help me with a concern. I am planning a timing belt water pump job in the near future. What happens if I accidentally, for some reason, turn the crank before I get the timing belt back on, how do I put it back to its correct position?
I just got done doing mine just a week ago. It's very difficult to accidentally move the crank pulley. The cam pulleys definitely have more play as it were, which makes it easier to use those to get the belt back on. But if it's that much of a concern, then take some tape, put a piece on the pulley and block next to it and mark with sharpie so the points align. There's already marks for the camp pulleys so any movement is pretty noticeable. It also helps to take pictures as you go to document any changes and to see where you can go back to a baseline.

I completely second both removing the radiator and hood latch. That latch damn near impaled me more than once, and getting the radiator out not only gave me more room but allowed me to clean it thoroughly.
 
There’s an alignment dot on the oil pump for the crank. Also if your using the aisin kit the timing belt has alignment marks on it, just remember that L and R are as viewed from the drivers seat looking forward so R cam is passenger side L is driver.

with as much stuff you have to disassemble for the job it’s a good time to replace the radiator, alternator, and fan bracket.
 
I just got done doing mine just a week ago. It's very difficult to accidentally move the crank pulley. The cam pulleys definitely have more play as it were, which makes it easier to use those to get the belt back on. But if it's that much of a concern, then take some tape, put a piece on the pulley and block next to it and mark with sharpie so the points align. There's already marks for the camp pulleys so any movement is pretty noticeable. It also helps to take pictures as you go to document any changes and to see where you can go back to a baseline.

I completely second both removing the radiator and hood latch. That latch damn near impaled me more than once, and getting the radiator out not only gave me more room but allowed me to clean it thoroughly.
Thank you, I will for sure be removing radiator. Maybe the hood latch too if I don't throw a blanket over it..
 
There’s an alignment dot on the oil pump for the crank. Also if your using the aisin kit the timing belt has alignment marks on it, just remember that L and R are as viewed from the drivers seat looking forward so R cam is passenger side L is driver.

with as much stuff you have to disassemble for the job it’s a good time to replace the radiator, alternator, and fan bracket.
My RAD is new. I'm not so worried about the alternator, and I've already purchased a new fan bracket. For sure. Thank you for your help!
 

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