$2,800 to replace timing belt and water pump?

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Regarding cylinder head - car broke down 3-4 months ago when my son was driving it. We had it towed to repair shop (not Toyota) which has worked on the car before, but since then changed owner. There was an issue with coil spring and spark plug, something melted together. They charged $7-800 to fix it, but obviously they didn't do a good job, since this LC specialist notes this below


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Hence, this is not all the issues listed. It needs new tires, fixing the shocks, timing belt and water pump, front sway bar endlinks are splitting,
Play in both front wheel bearings, etc.

We love the car, but is it time to sell it? It seems like I will need to spend $5-10K on it at this point.
 
The rust really doesn’t look that bad. I’d personally fix it. With all the issues it has you won’t get 6k for it as is, but once it’s fixed I’d guess it’s worth $16k or more in your area, and you know it’s in good order.

You previously had a loose plug that blew out, damaging the head. The ignition coil and plug were damaged from escaping exhaust gas. I wouldn’t expect it to be hard to source a head and have that fixed. It’s really not road worthy until you do.
 
Fix it! The rust isn't terrible and the money invested is still considerably less than a replacement vehicle.
In the end you will still have a super dependable, reliable, and very capable daily driver.
 
Is that a hole in the frame/cross member? Or maybe just gap where two pieces are coming together?

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Buy some tools, and a factory manual and do it yourself. It int a hard job, just takes time. You’d learn a ton about your cruiser.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. I just got some photos of the rust, mainly on the rear suspension links and frame

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Is this worth investing in? I've had the car since 2006/7, and it has served us very well. But now it has been my son driving it at college for the last 2 years.
I'd not put money in it. That rust runs deep into all body parts, frame and components. Including piping, wiring and grounds. It will be a "time and materials" money pit, with very little resell value.
 
Just an FYI… Labor charge for recent timing belt service. Aisin kit TKT-021 and oil pump gasket. Excellent mechanic with OCD work ethic. This as a result of my first ever leaking water pump.

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Just an FYI… Labor charge for recent timing belt service. Aisin kit TKT-021 and oil pump gasket. Excellent mechanic with OCD work ethic. This as a result of my first ever leaking water pump.

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INDY shops, that works on all makes and models.
Hope your Aisin TKT-021, didn't come from Amazon or Ebay. Some junk bootleg parts, in their kits.
Oil pump, doesn't have a gasket. Nore is oil pump removed in a typical T-belt service.
Precision Multi-purpose seal. What's that, some cheap FIPG.
Labor $552. What's his hourly rate $92.00.
No FIPG 1282B
No Fan bracket! Humm.
No coolant! Hum

I just finished a timing belt service. Which and INDY did last Time belt.
In it. I did replace an oil pump. PITA labor intensive job. Due previous T-belt service, done at INDY shop, cross threading in tensioner pulley bolt into oil pump. Pulling engine, both oil pans, to get to oil pump. Also found other cross threaded bolts, lose bolts, over torqued. Water inlet and front water by pass coolant leak and damaged. Due use of FIPG on large O-ring. Crank/oil sending unit wires routed wrong.Busted cam sensor wire housing bracket. Some starge black floaters in coolant system. The list goes on.

So much of what I do, is correcting what other hands have messed up.


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INDY shops, that works on all makes and models.
Hope your Aisin TKT-021, didn't come from Amazon or Ebay. Some junk bootleg parts, in their kita.
Oil pump, doesn't have a gasket. Nore is oil pump removed in a typical T-belt service.
Precision Multi-purpose seal. What's that, some cheap FIPG.
Labor $552. What's his hourly rate $92.00.
No FIPG 1282B
No Fan bracket! Humm.
No coolant! Hum

I just finished a timing belt service. Which and INDY did last Time belt.
In it. I did replace an oil pump. PITA labor intensive job. Due previous T-belt service, done at INDY shop, cross threading in tensioner pulley bolt into oil pump. Pulling engine, both oil pans, to get to oil pump. Also found other cross threaded bolts, lose bolts, over torqued. Water inlet and front water by pass coolant leak and damaged. Due use of FIPG on large O-ring. Crank/oil sending unit wires routed wrong.Busted cam sensor wire housing bracket. Some starge black floaters in coolant system. The list goes on.

So much of what I do, is correcting what other hands have messed up.


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Am I correct that you would recommend your $2800 timing belt service every 90k miles as well, whether the engine needs it or not?
 
Am I correct that you would recommend your $2800 timing belt service every 90k miles as well, whether the engine needs it or not?
It does need it every 90 though
 
Am I correct that you would recommend your $2800 timing belt service every 90k miles as well,
I do recommend, same as Toyota/lexus FSM & OEM & scheduled maintenance guide: 90k or 9 yr (2007 sch, which is now used 98-07).
VVTi for sure, get it done.
In 98-05. If you want to take the chance on a T-belt break. You'll likely just need a tow, if happens.

Book time runs, 5hr to 6hr.
Cost depends on:
  1. Hourly rates vary from $60 to $350 hr., from city to city, shop to shop.
  2. Also on parts replaced.
Even some tire shop do mechanical work. Do you think they've highly trained techs or kids off the steering.
I recommend shops that:
  1. Works only 100 series. (ones with very low mechanic turn over)
  2. Specialize in building and service Land cruiser 40 thru 300 series. (ones with very low mechanic turn over)
  3. Dealerships. (ones with very low mechanic turn over)
  4. Toyota/lexus only INDY shop. (ones with very low mechanic turn over)
Never INDY shop that work on all makes and models.

whether the engine needs it or not?
How do you know whether engine needs it or not?

Whereas, most belts are fine at 90K. I find, weather plays a big roll in condition of belt. Extreme cold or hot weather, those belts are in bad condition. Toyota assume extreme weather.

But of more of a concern, is: Tensioner, pulley bearings & water pump. Also drive belt tensioner and fan bracket. Those two replace at time of timing belt, have no labor cost. Either of those two done independent of Timing belt, are high labor. A failure of one, can cost you the engine.
 
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@2001LC
Nice job pulling the motor to do the oil pump and pans. Do you typically remove the intake manifold before pulling the motor?
 
My issue that I am living overseas at the moment, so the car is with my son at college. I am not in a position to make any mods or work on it myself. I need a safe and well-working rig for my son to drive at college.
 
Am I correct that you would recommend your $2800 timing belt service every 90k miles as well, whether the engine needs it or not?
Am I correct that you change your oil based on visual inspection, not mileage?

Folks whining about the costs of these vehicles, especially for services that are due every 90k miles or 9 years own the wrong vehicle.
 
Am I correct that you change your oil based on visual inspection, not mileage?

Folks whining about the costs of these vehicles, especially for services that are due every 90k miles or 9 years own the wrong vehicle.

I catch hell from some forumers every time I point out the fact that these never stop being $100K vehicles (in today's money), no matter how old they get. And no matter how low the resale value goes. Maintaining a vehicle like these costs money. It did when they were new. And it still does, especially when there's previous sketchy repairs and decades of rust built up.

Not everyone can or wants to do the work themselves. OTRAMM knows what they are doing and knows these vehicles. Anything designated as high priority should be addressed. IMO, I don't see a 100 as a particularly good vehicle for a kid at college. I would dump this truck and find a disposable Camry, Highlander or RAV4. And be done with it.

$0.02
 
I catch hell from some forumers every time I point out the fact that these never stop being $100K vehicles (in today's money), no matter how old they get. And no matter how low the resale value goes. Maintaining a vehicle like these costs money. It did when they were new. And it still does, especially when there's previous sketchy repairs and decades of rust built up.

Not everyone can or wants to do the work themselves. OTRAMM knows what they are doing and knows these vehicles. Anything designated as high priority should be addressed. IMO, I don't see a 100 as a particularly good vehicle for a kid at college. I would dump this truck and find a disposable Camry, Highlander or RAV4. And be done with it.

$0.02

Yep, if there was an emotional or sentimental attachment to this truck I'd say it shouldn't have gotten to this point to begin with - with the rust issues, maintenance and repairs all coming due at the exact same time.

In a way this truck did it's job lasting this long in this condition (neglect?). But it's too late to feasibly rescue it from a financial perspective, unless you can DIY everything for just the cost of parts. If you can't, I'd sell it.
 

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