LX470 Timing Belt + Water Pump Cost (2 Viewers)

[sanman]

Hello,

I got a quote for replacing my cam and valve cover seals, crank seal, timing belt, water pump, clutch fan and tensioner, thermostat and hoses for $2,100 labor. I will be providing all the parts which is OEM worth about $1,000.

Is this fair ? I am from Florida.

 

[MongooseGA]

I would say that labor is pretty high.

 

[vipergrhd]

Is this a VVti engine?
If it's non VVti labor is high.

 

[sanman]

Is there a way to know the difference between vvti and non-vvti ? It is a 2006 lx470.

 

[Couvi]

2006/2007 models were VVti.

 

[cruisin4bruisins]

Is there a way to know the difference between vvti and non-vvti ? It is a 2006 lx470.

View attachment 3750891

It is VVTI

 

[2001LC]

The labor is on low side, if doing VVT cam seals.

I would not replace the cam or crank seal. Unless they're currently leaking. I'd save that labor money for other parts, that are no extra labor while in there!
If not doing cam seals, I would re torque the head cover bolts, rather than replacing the gasket and tube seals. Exception is: if HC gaskets & seals, had already been replaced, leaking and all their bolts found to already be at 54 INCH-lbf. Which leak, would then, indicate poor install (typical).

I would not replace fan clutch, unless needed. The labor to do anytime, is minimal.

I would replace T-belt, it's two pulleys, its tensioner and water pump.
I would replace fan bracket, if it doesn't pass inspection. Fail is: "Any" oil on back seal, "any" play in shaft, or "any" sound when spinning shaft.
I would replace fan belt tensioner, if sound from it's pulley bearing or tension return spring weak.
I would replace any vacuum lines that are loose or cracking, and PCV valve if needed.
I would drain coolant from block and blow out coolant system. Replacing 4 gal of coolant, heater tees, thermostat and rad cap, with all Toyota OEM.
I would replace spark plugs and replace coil boots and seals. Nice to, time these with T-belt services each 90K mile.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'd 1282B FIPG patch, any pitting on block, under water pump gasket. This adds a day to the job, but reduce future piping of block.


If not done:
I'd flush brake fluid, using only Toyota brake fluid. Yours looks dark.
T-belt are done at the 90K mile. Wheel bearing at 30K mile. So wheel bearing service should be consider. Along with; front diff and transfer case flushes.
I'd flush and adjust AHC using only Toyota fluid.
I'd clean power steering (PS) reservoir screen and flush PS with Mobil 1 MV ATF.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

If transmission has never had all 12 qt flushed and level set to new TSB temp, I do that also!

 

[sanman]

Thank you all ! I am guessing that labor cost is within range for the VVTI then ?

 

[sanman]

The labor is on low side, if doing VVT cam seals.

I would not replace the cam or crank seal. Unless they're currently leaking. I'd save that labor money for other parts, that are no extra labor while in there!
If not doing cam seals, I would re torque the head cover bolts, rather than replacing the gasket and tube seals. Exception is: if HC gaskets & seals, had already been replaced, leaking and all their bolts found to already be at 54 INCH-lbf. Which leak, would then, indicate poor install (typical).

I would not replace fan clutch, unless needed. The labor to do anytime, is minimal.

I would replace T-belt, it's two pulleys, its tensioner and water pump.
I would replace fan bracket, if it doesn't pass inspection. Fail is: "Any" oil on back seal, "any" play in shaft, or "any" sound when spinning shaft.
I would replace fan belt tensioner, if sound from it's pulley bearing or tension return spring weak.
I would replace any vacuum lines that are loose or cracking, and PCV valve if needed.
I would drain coolant from block and blow out coolant system. Replacing 4 gal of coolant, heater tees, thermostat and rad cap, with all Toyota OEM.
I would replace spark plugs and replace coil boots and seals. Nice to, time these with T-belt services each 90K mile.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'd 1282B FIPG patch, any pitting on block, under water pump gasket. This adds a day to the job, but reduce future piping of block.


If not done:
I'd flush brake fluid, using only Toyota brake fluid. Yours looks dark.
T-belt are done at the 90K mile. Wheel bearing at 30K mile. So wheel bearing service should be consider. Along with; front diff and transfer case flushes.
I'd flush and adjust AHC using only Toyota fluid.
I'd clean power steering (PS) reservoir screen and flush PS with Mobil 1 MV ATF.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

If transmission has never had all 12 qt flushed and level set to new TSB temp, I do that also!

Now seeing this, thanks!

 

[nissanh]

This is true "I would not replace the cam or crank seal. Unless they're currently leaking."

I did the T-belt and did not replace any seals at 225K miles and still all dry.

 

[sanman]

I’ll start with torquing the valve covers and see if the leak stops. If it doesn’t then i’ll do the cam and valve cover seals together with the timing belt changeout.

I am really happy with this group so far, i’ve gotten prompt responses and good input.

I bought this truck with 290k miles. Everything works well with exception of the oil leak, needs brake job and some minor suspension components. I don’t have any record of a timing belt change.

After driving it for about 5,000 miles I can now see why less and less of these are for sale. It is just pure class.

 

[2001LC]

I'll add. The cam seals, typically shows leak, just under the upper time belt covers on block. It will travel along block under exhaust manifold finding its way to plastic #2 undershield in time.

A head (valve) covers leaking badly and had been for a good amount of time. Its oil leak, may get to same area on front of block. Head cover leaks are seen mostly along bottom of head covers above exhaust manifold, flow back and down block around exhaust manifold. Bad HC leaks, also get between HC and intake manifold.

If this area on front of block is wet. Clean after re-torquing head cover bolts to 54 INCH-LBF. Then watch for reoccurrence. A second cleaning, a few months and few thousand miles later, will help confirm.

This is bank 2 under time belt/cam cover above vane pump, after cleaning oil.

This is month or so later. Cam seal leak confirmed.