100 series master key thread (1 Viewer)

[zedZed]

hi @Mauser, I have a Series 100 Land Cruiser manufactured in March 2002, and I tried to do the pedal dance according to Transponder Key Programming - https://tlcfaq.com/main/2013/02/key-programming/ to make another Master Key but it doesn't seem to work, so I assume the only key I received was valet.

However, they key can open GloveBox and Trunk, so was wondering how to really differentiate Master Key vs Valet Key? I've ordered VXDiag Nano for TIS and once received, I'll see if I can reset the Immobilizer or not... but in the meantime, here's a video I made of the key that can open trunk + glovebox - but cannot create additional master keys...

I may need a "virginized ECU" from @Mauser if it comes to worst-case scenario (my key is Valet and cannot reset immobilizer via TechStream)

 

[Mauser]

It could be that your key is in the ecu as a valet, or all of your key slots are filled. Watch the security light as you insert the key in the ignition. If the light goes out right away you have a master. If it stays lit for a second then goes out your key is a valet.

For 2002 you reset onboard. Requires Techstream or other software.

 

[zedZed]

Thanks @Mauser, if you see minute 0:47, the light does sort of stay for 1 second, so I'm assuming this is Valet then...

Good to know that my 2002 LC-100 can be reset onboard without requiring virginized ECU, but according to TIS website, I need a Security Professional subscription to use the Immobilizer Reset button from TechStream? Or is there a link for an older version of TechStream that has this built-in?

 

[Mauser]

Thanks @Mauser, if you see minute 0:47, the light does sort of stay for 1 second, so I'm assuming this is Valet then...

Good to know that my 2002 LC-100 can be reset onboard without requiring virginized ECU, but according to TIS website, I need a Security Professional subscription to use the Immobilizer Reset button from TechStream? Or is there a link for an older version of TechStream that has this built-in?

I think most of the Techstream versions that can be downloaded online have the reset feature available. I use version 12. I can help with a passcode when you are ready.

 

[zedZed]

Awesome, I will PM you for the Reset Passcode once I get my OBD Cable & TechStream installed

 

[zedZed]

For 2002 you reset onboard. Requires Techstream or other software.

@Mauser you're right! I connected TechStream and I see the Immobilizer > Utility > Key Code Reset, screenshot below.
PM-ing you now how to get the decoded key needed to get ECU into key learning mode

 

[superbrick]

Hi. I've been away from this forum for about 5 years since I sold my 94 FZJ80 (why, why, why did I do that?) but I am back now with a newly purchased 2000 LC that only came with a single valet key and no fobs. I didn't realize this until the deal was done (it was small mom and pop car lot, truck was a one-owner trade-in to a larger local dealership) but I can't even lock the truck with the one valet key that I do have. I can't use the interior door lock button (door automatically unlocks when driver's door closes) and I can't lock it using the key in the door either.

I've been reading over this thread, and maybe my situation was covered somewhere in one of the earlier posts, but at this point everyone else's cases have kind of run together in my head so I thought I'd start fresh. So this is where I'm at:

• 2000 Land Cruiser
• One valet sub-key only (gray shell, security light stays on for ~1 second after inserting in ignition)
• No fobs
• I cannot lock the truck with the valet key only (see above)
• I have ordered (2) three-button fob key blanks from Amazon (HYQ1512V, 89070-60090). Said to be the correct type for my model year but I can't be sure.
• There may potentially be some other weird things going on with my ECU. The door chime was staying on continuously when the driver's door was open (not ding, ding, ding but a steady beep) and the security light was nowhere to be seen until a day ago when I accidentally let the battery run down (kids left a door open) and when I jumped the battery now the door chime works as I expected (ding, ding, ding) and the security light is working again. Did draining the battery reset something?

So the questions I have now are:

1. Is the key blank type I ordered known to have the correct transponder chip for a model year 2000 LC?
2. With only the valet key, do I need a virginized ECU to make masters of the new keys?
3. Will a reflashed ECU address some of the other issues I mentioned in my last point above?

I do not have the TechStream program and I don't know that I need to go that route if I can get a virginized ECU from @Mauser. I just want to be sure that I really need it though first before I make the arrangements for a reflash or ECU swap.

Thanks, y'all.

 

[DangBird]

It's strange you can't lock the truck, even with the Valet key. That key should be able to do that, but won't lock the glovebox. I ordered those same key blanks and while I was able to have them cut by a local locksmith, I did have to reprogram the ECU to make them masters. (see below)

1. They should be able to be programmed as masters once you have a virgin ECU (you can confirm by looking at the security light when putting key in ignition). I cannot get the wireless fob to program at all. Hopefully you have better luck (after getting master key figured out).
2. Yes, you'll need a virginized ECU, you can't do this with techstream on a 2000. This means either an ECU itself or a chip desolder and swap. I ended up getting a chip from Mauser and soldering it into my existing ECU, but if you're not experienced at soldering this may not be for you.
3. Having a virginized ECU will allow you to program keys as masters. Programming the fobs (a separate thing, but you need a master to do it) may or may not work with those amazon keys. Not sure about your strange issues with the constant tone, hopefully others can comment on that.

 

[superbrick]

It's strange you can't lock the truck, even with the Valet key. That key should be able to do that, but won't lock the glovebox. I ordered those same key blanks and while I was able to have them cut by a local locksmith, I did have to reprogram the ECU to make them masters. (see below)

1. They should be able to be programmed as masters once you have a virgin ECU (you can confirm by looking at the security light when putting key in ignition). I cannot get the wireless fob to program at all. Hopefully you have better luck (after getting master key figured out).
2. Yes, you'll need a virginized ECU, you can't do this with techstream on a 2000. This means either an ECU itself or a chip desolder and swap. I ended up getting a chip from Mauser and soldering it into my existing ECU, but if you're not experienced at soldering this may not be for you.
3. Having a virginized ECU will allow you to program keys as masters. Programming the fobs (a separate thing, but you need a master to do it) may or may not work with those amazon keys. Not sure about your strange issues with the constant tone, hopefully others can comment on that.

Thanks, DB. There's a lot a feel confident doing myself but electrical soldering is not one of those things. I think an ECU swap is the way to go for me.

 

[DangBird]

Thanks, DB. There's a lot a feel confident doing myself but electrical soldering is not one of those things. I think an ECU swap is the way to go for me.

When you do get the master keys figured out, please let me know if you're able to get the key fobs to program for wireless operation... I am determined to figure this out, but I've been doing other (mechanical) maintenance on my 2000 lately.

 

[87warrior]

When you do get the master keys figured out, please let me know if you're able to get the key fobs to program for wireless operation... I am determined to figure this out, but I've been doing other (mechanical) maintenance on my 2000 lately.

This procedure worked for me to get the fob programmed once I got the steps memorized. It took me more time than I would like to admit to get the timing right, but it eventually worked for both fobs I purchased on Amazon.

 

[DangBird]

This procedure worked for me to get the fob programmed once I got the steps memorized. It took me more time than I would like to admit to get the timing right, but it eventually worked for both fobs I purchased on Amazon.

So I can get the vehicle to go into programming mode, but never past that point. The fob doesn't seem to communicate or "bind" once the vehicle is in programming mode.. Is that the timing you're talking about?

 

[87warrior]

So I can get the vehicle to go into programming mode, but never past that point. The fob doesn't seem to communicate or "bind" once the vehicle is in programming mode.. Is that the timing you're talking about?

Yup. Getting the cruiser in 'programming mode' wasn't a problem. The hokey-pokey with the fob took me sometime to get right.

 

[DangBird]

Yup. Getting the cruiser in 'programming mode' wasn't a problem. The hokey-pokey with the fob took me sometime to get right.

Alright... a couple of questions then (any tips on getting this part right would be MUCH appreciated!):
- Were you cycling the key to "on" twice when you got it to work (which should reset all the remotes), or just once like the video?
- Did you do the whole lock/unlock rodeo every time for a single "press buttons at same time" attempt, or did you sort of mash on them a bunch of times and it finally worked?

I've tried this so many times my lock might be wearing out.

 

[87warrior]

Alright... a couple of questions then (any tips on getting this part right would be MUCH appreciated!):
- Were you cycling the key to "on" twice when you got it to work (which should reset all the remotes), or just once like the video?
- Did you do the whole lock/unlock rodeo every time for a single "press buttons at same time" attempt, or did you sort of mash on them a bunch of times and it finally worked?

I've tried this so many times my lock might be wearing out.

I don't remember exactly what I did, I just followed the video/steps outlined in the video and did exactly as instructed. The problem is, the narrator of the video explains the process too slow so you have to memorize the steps to get it right.

 

[Mauser]

Hi. I've been away from this forum for about 5 years since I sold my 94 FZJ80 (why, why, why did I do that?) but I am back now with a newly purchased 2000 LC that only came with a single valet key and no fobs. I didn't realize this until the deal was done (it was small mom and pop car lot, truck was a one-owner trade-in to a larger local dealership) but I can't even lock the truck with the one valet key that I do have. I can't use the interior door lock button (door automatically unlocks when driver's door closes) and I can't lock it using the key in the door either.

I've been reading over this thread, and maybe my situation was covered somewhere in one of the earlier posts, but at this point everyone else's cases have kind of run together in my head so I thought I'd start fresh. So this is where I'm at:

• 2000 Land Cruiser
• One valet sub-key only (gray shell, security light stays on for ~1 second after inserting in ignition)
• No fobs
• I cannot lock the truck with the valet key only (see above)
• I have ordered (2) three-button fob key blanks from Amazon (HYQ1512V, 89070-60090). Said to be the correct type for my model year but I can't be sure.
• There may potentially be some other weird things going on with my ECU. The door chime was staying on continuously when the driver's door was open (not ding, ding, ding but a steady beep) and the security light was nowhere to be seen until a day ago when I accidentally let the battery run down (kids left a door open) and when I jumped the battery now the door chime works as I expected (ding, ding, ding) and the security light is working again. Did draining the battery reset something?

So the questions I have now are:

1. Is the key blank type I ordered known to have the correct transponder chip for a model year 2000 LC?
2. With only the valet key, do I need a virginized ECU to make masters of the new keys?
3. Will a reflashed ECU address some of the other issues I mentioned in my last point above?

I do not have the TechStream program and I don't know that I need to go that route if I can get a virginized ECU from @Mauser. I just want to be sure that I really need it though first before I make the arrangements for a reflash or ECU swap.

Thanks, y'all.

You will need a reflash for sure to add master keys. The door locks should work with the valet. Maybe the ignition switch has been changed? If so a locksmith can help. If the ignition switch has been changed you can get the key code for the door off of the lock.

The aftermarket keys for 98-2002 usually have the correct transponder, but it can be a crapshoot whether you can program the remote or not.

Not sure if a new ecu will fix the other issues.

 

[Mauser]

Here is a bad video I made showing how to add remotes to my 1998 LX470.

 

[superbrick]

You will need a reflash for sure to add master keys. The door locks should work with the valet. Maybe the ignition switch has been changed? If so a locksmith can help. If the ignition switch has been changed you can get the key code for the door off of the lock.

The aftermarket keys for 98-2002 usually have the correct transponder, but it can be a crapshoot whether you can program the remote or not.

Not sure if a new ecu will fix the other issues.

On further investigation I think the keyhole on the driver's door might just be gummed up. I can turn the key to the right (unlock?) but there is some resistance when I try to turn it to the left. Given that I currently only have one working key (valet) I don't want to force it. I'll look into this again once I have some spare keys cut and programmed.

@Mauser, what's the procedure for getting a virginized ECU these days? As luck(?) would have it I ruptured a heater core hose this morning (as I said, it's a new-to-me truck with an unknown maintenance history) so I'm going to be off the road for a few days waiting on some parts. Probably no better time to send off the ECU to either be reflashed or swapped with one you have ready to ship. Should I send you a private message to arrange this?

Thanks.

 

[Mauser]

On further investigation I think the keyhole on the driver's door might just be gummed up. I can turn the key to the right (unlock?) but there is some resistance when I try to turn it to the left. Given that I currently only have one working key (valet) I don't want to force it. I'll look into this again once I have some spare keys cut and programmed.

@Mauser, what's the procedure for getting a virginized ECU these days? As luck(?) would have it I ruptured a heater core hose this morning (as I said, it's a new-to-me truck with an unknown maintenance history) so I'm going to be off the road for a few days waiting on some parts. Probably no better time to send off the ECU to either be reflashed or swapped with one you have ready to ship. Should I send you a private message to arrange this?

Thanks.

You can go ahead and send it. Private message is best.

Here's the deal for payment. I charge return shipping now.

Will flash for food.

With states doing lockdowns and stay at home orders many Americans are losing their jobs. Being hungry sucks! For the next month or so for my services I am doing something a little different. For payment for all ecu flashing and swaps I am asking for a food donation to a local food bank or...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[DangBird]

Last night I successfully got keyless entry working, thanks to the generous @90WT who donated me his extra aftermarket LX470 blank (which I gutted for the electronics).

It seems the problem was the remote itself was incompatible. Since the remote electronics and the transponder chip are different pieces, I just swapped the remote's circuit board into my key and now I have a key that starts the car AND works for keyless entry!

@90WT has a 2005 LX and I have a 2000 LC, the transponder chips are incompatible. His is a 4D chip, mine is a 4C chip. Check out the following picture:

Some things I learned which may be helpful to others:

• Be careful when you take apart the key fob "brick"... the black housing (top of above picture) plastic is fairly brittle, so take your time with a tiny flathead screwdriver popping the tabs. There's a side with two tabs right next to each other, I recommend starting with that side when prying it open.
• You can program remotes independently of the transponder chip. You do not need the transponder chip programmed to do this.
• Order the correct transponder chip for your year of vehicle. 4C for a 1998-2002, 4D above that and I think some 06-07 need a different one 12BBT or something. (Look it up)

Finally, here are the keys I ordered originally (which the remotes DO NOT WORK on):
Keymall LC 4C Chip Key

This seems to be the same key that I got from @90WT, I ordered another one last night (Yes, I know the 4D chip won't work for me, I just want the remote):
KeylessOption LX470 4D Chip Key

I'd be really interested to know if the "KeylessOption" branded 4C remotes work, but I couldn't find a single key (only a 2 pack) and I already have enough spares. For those of you who may be ordering keys for a 1998-2002 LC, I would recommend NOT ordering the ones from my first link if you want keyless entry to work.