100 series master key thread (1 Viewer)

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First thing first, up above there are links to the proper OEM style keys (some toyota some aftermarket).
Secondly, are you positive that the key that starts the engine IS NOT a master?
Well this is great news I think.
The 2 keys that start the engine are indeed master keys, the security light went out as soon as I inserted the key in the ignition.
So if I get Techstream, I can add more keys, correct?
From what I read here, I need For 2003 LC key with chip 4D-67 TP30 and the FCC of the fob should be HYQ-1512V, please confirm.
Also for programming the fob I found online so many different sequences of opening and closing stuff, I really don’t know what will work for 2003 LC. Can someone please tell me the right sequence for my car.

thanks guys for the help.
 
First thing first, up above there are links to the proper OEM style keys (some toyota some aftermarket).
Secondly, are you positive that the key that starts the engine IS NOT a master?
Well this is great news I think.
The 2 keys that start the engine are indeed master keys, the security light went out as soon as I inserted the key in the ignition.
So if I get Techstream, I can add more keys, correct?
From what I read here, I need key with chip for 2003 the FCC should be HYQ-1512V, please confirm. Aslo for programming the fob I found online so many different sequences of opening and closing stuff, I really don’t know what will work for 2003 LC.

thanks guys for the help.
 
Well this is great news I think.
The 2 keys that start the engine are indeed master keys, the security light went out as soon as I inserted the key in the ignition.
So if I get Techstream, I can add more keys, correct?
From what I read here, I need key with chip for 2003 the FCC should be HYQ-1512V, please confirm. Aslo for programming the fob I found online so many different sequences of opening and closing stuff, I really don’t know what will work for 2003 LC.

thanks guys for the help.

Having a working master makes everything easier. Yes, you can use Techstream to delete all the missing keys and add new ones. It is very easy to do. Finding the correct aftermarket key for 2002-2005 can be hit or miss, a lot of the remotes say they have the correct frequency, but many people are unable to add them to the ecu. You should be able to use Techstream to add the remote too.
 
My 2003 Lexus key with functioning fob says it is HYQ1512V.
I purchased a key from eBay that is supposed to have HYQ1512V and it won't program to my rig.
Just to add some confusion, I found this thread that says it would be HYQ1512Y or HYQ12BBX:
Anyone using one of those on a 2003? The seller and I are trying to sort out my fob problem. Mauser cut the key and changed the immobilizer chip so that functions, so returning the key isn't an option.

Well this is great news I think.
The 2 keys that start the engine are indeed master keys, the security light went out as soon as I inserted the key in the ignition.
So if I get Techstream, I can add more keys, correct?
From what I read here, I need key with chip for 2003 the FCC should be HYQ-1512V, please confirm. Aslo for programming the fob I found online so many different sequences of opening and closing stuff, I really don’t know what will work for 2003 LC.

thanks guys for the help.
 
If your old HYQ1512V FOB works for doors. Then either you've and error in programming or a bad or too weak a signal "ebay FOB" for doors. Lots of junk on ebay these days!

If old FOB also not working, then could be receiver issue.

I had a dome fuse out, in an 07LX which powers the receiver for doors. I had no working FOB at all to start with for the LX, so took a bit to realized the fuse out. Sorted that out, then found I had a 1512V which was not correct for 07LX. 06-07 LX & LC use the 12BBT

Based on some VIN# I ran 03 -05LX takes HYQ1512V. Run your VIN # at www.partsouq.com and see what you get. I'll bet same as below.
89751-53010 03-05 key Fob cover ID.jpg
 
The key that came with the vehicle is HYQ1512V, just like your picture. The key I bought from eBay is supposed to be the same, but it won't program on TechStream. TechStream never seems to recognize it; I just try the sequence repeatedly until 30 seconds runs out and nothing happens. Mauser tried it for me the first time and I tried again this weekend, so I don't think it's operator error.
 
Sorry, I'm repeating myself!

If your old FOB works. And light on in new FOB works, battery "should" be good enough. Send it back and try another FOB & seller.

Now if old FOB does not work, than you've likely an inop receiver issue. In which case, a code may be found in tech stream.
 
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The key that came with the vehicle is HYQ1512V, just like your picture. The key I bought from eBay is supposed to be the same, but it won't program on TechStream. TechStream never seems to recognize it; I just try the sequence repeatedly until 30 seconds runs out and nothing happens. Mauser tried it for me the first time and I tried again this weekend, so I don't think it's operator error.
How many keys do you have programmed to your vehicle. Remember, our trucks can only hold a maximum of 8 keys. I found the page in the FSM when I was looking through the 2004 manuals for door lock info and did see that it mentions a MAX of 5 Master Key designations and 3 Valet Key designations. However, when I was reprogramming my keys I did not that I had 8 keys under the MASTER KEY designation. So again, best bet is to clear out all keys, then go through and reprogram each additional key that you have. This way you are sure you have cleared out ANY potential lost keys.
 
How many keys do you have programmed to your vehicle. Remember, our trucks can only hold a maximum of 8 keys. I found the page in the FSM when I was looking through the 2004 manuals for door lock info and did see that it mentions a MAX of 5 Master Key designations and 3 Valet Key designations. However, when I was reprogramming my keys I did not that I had 8 keys under the MASTER KEY designation. So again, best bet is to clear out all keys, then go through and reprogram each additional key that you have. This way you are sure you have cleared out ANY potential lost keys.
Good point!
 
One of my key blades is really worn down. Is there a chip in the metal blade? I just want to have a new blade cut to put with my existing black casing/transponder. Is it as easy as getting a new blade cut and replacing it without having to reprogram anything? Where can I get just the blade(s)?
 
One of my key blades is really worn down. Is there a chip in the metal blade? I just want to have a new blade cut to put with my existing black casing/transponder. Is it as easy as getting a new blade cut and replacing it without having to reprogram anything? Where can I get just the blade(s)?
Negative... Transponder (chip) is in the black body of the key. You could grab one of @suprarx7nut YotaMD's kits that way you can swap in the new blade blank and just use your old transponder part easily. If you want the factory look, can't really help you there. The one spare that I have that is the FOB the blade is actually glued in so I would have to destroy the shell to get the blade out.

But as many have found out, well worth it to invest in getting another key programmed as a master (if you have a master) either by your locksmith or by doing it on your own with a laptop and the TechStream software (see How To: Techstream in 5mins thread).
 
One of my key blades is really worn down. Is there a chip in the metal blade? I just want to have a new blade cut to put with my existing black casing/transponder. Is it as easy as getting a new blade cut and replacing it without having to reprogram anything? Where can I get just the blade(s)?

Negative... Transponder (chip) is in the black body of the key. You could grab one of @suprarx7nut YotaMD's kits that way you can swap in the new blade blank and just use your old transponder part easily. If you want the factory look, can't really help you there. The one spare that I have that is the FOB the blade is actually glued in so I would have to destroy the shell to get the blade out.

But as many have found out, well worth it to invest in getting another key programmed as a master (if you have a master) either by your locksmith or by doing it on your own with a laptop and the TechStream software (see How To: Techstream in 5mins thread).

Thanks for the referral @gregnash ! I also sell the blades by themselves, if that helps you @FIJCK .

 
Thanks for the referral @gregnash ! I also sell the blades by themselves, if that helps you @FIJCK .


I just ordered one of your blanks. I haven't been using my YotaMD shell because my "U" shaped key always had a lot of play and I didn't know you had blanks that were made to fit... whoops. Thanks.
 
I just ordered one of your blanks. I haven't been using my YotaMD shell because my "U" shaped key always had a lot of play and I didn't know you had blanks that were made to fit... whoops. Thanks.

Ah, sorry about that. I need to revise the marketing materials and the listing so that's more obvious. Enough of those U keys are poorly fitted I should just plainly state "if you have a U key, you must buy a new blank." A new blank solves it perfectly.
 
How many keys do you have programmed to your vehicle. Remember, our trucks can only hold a maximum of 8 keys. I found the page in the FSM when I was looking through the 2004 manuals for door lock info and did see that it mentions a MAX of 5 Master Key designations and 3 Valet Key designations. However, when I was reprogramming my keys I did not that I had 8 keys under the MASTER KEY designation. So again, best bet is to clear out all keys, then go through and reprogram each additional key that you have. This way you are sure you have cleared out ANY potential lost keys.
2 keys registered in Techstream. I have only one functioning fob and I don't recall what Techstream shows for programmed remotes.
 
2 keys registered in Techstream. I have only one functioning fob and I don't recall what Techstream shows for programmed remotes.
Dont know that techstream can actually register the fobs. But I have a 98 so the customizations are pretty low.
 
Thanks to this and other threads I bought and was able to program some additional Toyota masters for my 2001. One thing I noticed was that the blinking light was not as helpful as various instructions indicated in understanding whether programming/clearing had worked or not. I never got the thing to give me feedback that all previous keys except the one I had were cleared. I was able to add two masters, but I had to wait until the very end of the programming sequence for any indication that it had worked (the blinking light went out after 60sec but didn't change its pattern at all before that while I was doing the pedal dance). Anyway, just in case someone is giving up hope, just be patient.

IMG_1108.jpeg
 
I was able to program a new master (already had one) based these instructions so thank you all. I can’t seem to get the fob programmed after meticulously following the video (and about 3 other versions from google). Any idea what else to try and get the fob programmed?
 
I posted this in an other 100 series key thread recently:
This is how I successfully replaced a lost key on my 2005 for $22:

After reading the FAQ and numerous threads that lead me down not quite the right path, I wanted to report back with what worked for my '05. Hopefully this saves you some time as I spent an awful lot of time with some trial and error. For successful full key with transponder and fob replacement, I ordered part #HYQ12BBT - 4D67 Chip for under $20 on ebay. This was after ordering the same part # with a "G" chip which is not compatible with my "Dot" or "D" 4D67 chip. Apparently there is also a "H" chip so you need to look at your existing key for a "G", "H", or a circle which is the dot key.

Next go to Ace or your locksmith and have the key cut for $2 (a buck a side). Ace was unable to program my key as their system registered errors, so I manually programmed both the fob and transponder.

Successful fob programming steps for door locks:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete.

Successful transponder programming:
1. Start with all doors closed
2. Insert and then remove master key in the ignition cylinder 5 times, leaving it inserted on 5th time.
3. Open and close driver's door 6 times, leaving it closed on 6th time.
4. Remove master key from the ignition cylinder. Verify security light is continuously illuminated.
5. Insert new key into ignition cylinder. Security light will blink for 60 seconds then extinguish.
6. Remove key from ignition cylinder, open driver's door to cancel programming mode.
7. Test operation of new key by validating response of security light to a master key, and starting the engine.

20200218_142357.jpg
 

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