I just placed an order for the kit, i accidentally ordered twice, can you please check and make sure i only ordered one? #24057 and #24056
06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter TexasCrane
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I just placed an order for the kit, i accidentally ordered twice, can you please check and make sure i only ordered one? #24057 and #24056
It's been over 5 years since I put Hewitt-Tech's bypass module on my '06 LC. Absolutely no problems since. I put one on my Tundra about 4 years ago as well as a precautionary measure because the pump started sounding a bit louder. Just wanted to give a 5 plus year update on the Hewitt-Tech module. Works so good the only time I think about it is when this thread pops back up.
Hey guys,
I’ve got an 07 LX 470 with 146K on it and got a P1442 code this morning off of a cold startup taking kiddos to school. It was in the upper 30s this morning here, coldest morning we’ve had so far. I assume that may have something to do with it popping up now.
it didn’t go into limp mode and I haven’t noticed any stand out sounds when cranked. I’ve cleared the code for now and it's driving fine.
With that being said I’m going to go ahead and purchase the by pass kit and just go ahead and install it.
For the people who have already done this on 100 series, what is the best way to access to put on the block off plates?
It looks borderline impossible from the top. Better to go through wheel well or from underneath?
Curious what others have had success with.
I’ve got an 07 LX 470 with 146K on it and got a P1442 code this morning off of a cold startup taking kiddos to school. It was in the upper 30s this morning here, coldest morning we’ve had so far. I assume that may have something to do with it popping up now.
it didn’t go into limp mode and I haven’t noticed any stand out sounds when cranked. I’ve cleared the code for now and it's driving fine.
With that being said I’m going to go ahead and purchase the by pass kit and just go ahead and install it.
For the people who have already done this on 100 series, what is the best way to access to put on the block off plates?
It looks borderline impossible from the top. Better to go through wheel well or from underneath?
Curious what others have had success with.
Has anyone tried to just replace the pump themselves? Mine is putting out a high-pitched whine, so I fear it may near the end. The bypass looks interesting/very simple. But, a new pump is not too much more (~$350 OEM, based on what I'm seeing online parts)...is it that replacement takes strong mechanic chops/time intensive/both?
Similar job to replacing the starter motor, which you may as well do also.
I did mine today, very easy install, to get to the blockoff plates, i went from underneath because i had a lift. Looking at it again, you can just remove the front wheels and go at it from the side, just remove the little rubber apron cover and you can reach it right there. I get a SAIS code only during the winter, in the summer i do not have that problem. Hope this bypass will fix it, the blockoff plates are right above the O2 sensors on both sides
Hey gang, it's been a week now since i've installed the bypass and so far the CEL hasn't came back, all my emissions monitors are green and ready. I only get codes when it's cold out, it was gone all summer until cold weather hits here. It's been in the 30s here and so far the code hasn't come back, i'm convinced this bypass got rid of it.
To anyone on the ropes of getting this, just do it, you're going to have to do it sooner or later if you have an 06-07, get it over with, it works!
To anyone on the ropes of getting this, just do it, you're going to have to do it sooner or later if you have an 06-07, get it over with, it works!
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Nice to hear. Did you do the full bypass?
Not sure what that full bypass entails, but i just ordered that one that was $190 and installed that, and put the blockoff plates on as well. The light being on didn't affect drivability but it's just annoying to look at.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
There is the $400 option, which is the full delete.
Just did this on a 2007 Land Cruiser after a SAIS bank two valve stuck closed CEL.
Block of plates were a pain, no real way around that. Passenger side can be accessed from the top, although tight, it’s doable. The driver side I accessed from underneath the vehicle with a really long extension.
When it came to wiring the starter relay the instructions included were catered more towards a Tundra or Sequoia. I know there are slight variations between the Land Cruiser, Tundra, Sequoia and 4Runner models with the 4.7. Some have VVTi others do not, some have a starting system that I can only describe as you don’t need to hold the key in the start position to start the vehicle. Just turn they key to start and release the vehicle will start itself. My 06 4Runner had the same system.
The relay is brown, not purple like in the instructions provided. It has 4 spades on the bottom all of which are silver. Two large and two small with holes.
All of the photos I took are standing at the driver fender looking down at the fuse block. The pole closest to the engine (12 o’clock on the fuse block) only gets 5-12v on crank. This is the pole you connect the bypass wire to. The pole at 9 o’clock gets 8v when the ignition is switched on. The pole at 3 o’clock gets nothing (I assume its ground). The pole at 6 o’clock is constant 12v (assuming this is battery).
I called Hewitt-Tech and spoke to them. They told my wiring assessment was correct and I provided them with photos to maybe update their instructions for late model Land Cruisers.
Worth it!
Block of plates were a pain, no real way around that. Passenger side can be accessed from the top, although tight, it’s doable. The driver side I accessed from underneath the vehicle with a really long extension.
When it came to wiring the starter relay the instructions included were catered more towards a Tundra or Sequoia. I know there are slight variations between the Land Cruiser, Tundra, Sequoia and 4Runner models with the 4.7. Some have VVTi others do not, some have a starting system that I can only describe as you don’t need to hold the key in the start position to start the vehicle. Just turn they key to start and release the vehicle will start itself. My 06 4Runner had the same system.
The relay is brown, not purple like in the instructions provided. It has 4 spades on the bottom all of which are silver. Two large and two small with holes.
All of the photos I took are standing at the driver fender looking down at the fuse block. The pole closest to the engine (12 o’clock on the fuse block) only gets 5-12v on crank. This is the pole you connect the bypass wire to. The pole at 9 o’clock gets 8v when the ignition is switched on. The pole at 3 o’clock gets nothing (I assume its ground). The pole at 6 o’clock is constant 12v (assuming this is battery).
I called Hewitt-Tech and spoke to them. They told my wiring assessment was correct and I provided them with photos to maybe update their instructions for late model Land Cruisers.
Worth it!
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The one that only gets voltage during cranking. The 12 o'clock position
I did the bypass install a few weeks back in my 2007 LX 470. The block off plates are certainly a PITA.
I actually have my starter relay wire connected to 9 o clock on your diagram. This is based on a post earlier in the thread where Hewitt said that was the correct one.
I believe you want the bypass to activate as soon as you turn the key (not necessarily crank) and it activates as soon as it reads between 5v and 12v.
This may not matter. Either placement may be fine. Just pointing this out to make sure we all have our starter relay wire in the right place.
I actually have my starter relay wire connected to 9 o clock on your diagram. This is based on a post earlier in the thread where Hewitt said that was the correct one.
I believe you want the bypass to activate as soon as you turn the key (not necessarily crank) and it activates as soon as it reads between 5v and 12v.
This may not matter. Either placement may be fine. Just pointing this out to make sure we all have our starter relay wire in the right place.
