06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My 06 started throwing P2440 and P1441 at 155,000 miles. The easiest part of the hewitt bypass kit was the block off plates. Remove the front wheels and then a skirt of shorts is all you need to remove to have access to the exhaust tubes on the 100.
 
If you own an 06 or 07, just install the bypass BEFORE you have an issue.
 
A relative's 2007 100 series Cruiser went into limp mode, VSC, Trac and Check Engine light on, throwing codes P1441 and P1444. Dealer quoted $2,000. I searched around MUD and came across this thread. I suggested to my uncle that he purchase the $179 kit and take to an indy mechanic we use. He did, mechanic had trouble with bolts for block off plates, just had to soak them a long time in penetrant and carefully remove. But they came out without breaking, installed kit and now all is well with the Cruiser. All done for about $400 total. Uncle has driven on two long distance trips and he is reporting better gas mileage too! Thanks always to MUD and the info in this thread!
 
Not sure, this particular Cruiser has been nowhere but GA, TN and the NC mountains, so sometimes cold, but usually pretty mild and sometimes hot. Dealer told him that water and debris get into the pump itself and cause it to fail. But they probably also offered to change his blinker fluid so I have no idea if there is any truth to that.
 
I'm going to list these for anyone that wants to know, or doesn't feel like looking all over the www
codes that should be alleviated with bypass.

P1441 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Open Bank 1
P1442 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Close Bank 1
P1444 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Open Bank 2
P1445 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Close Bank 2


P2440 - System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
P2441 - System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1
P2442 - System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 2
P2443 - System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 2
P2445 - System Pump Stuck OFF Bank 1 *
P2447 - System Pump Stuck Off Bank 2

C1201 - Engine Control System Malfunction this is a catch all code sort of. Any EVAP code or vac code, fuel, I think basically anything that prevents a closed loop (any system) will trigger this. But will not by default trigger a limp mode.
I believe this code triggers the VSC lights, it has in my experience with evap codes.


P0418 P0419 bypass will not clear.
These are pump issues that must be addressed, with replacement pump packs. Or your own genius resistor? knowledge.
I can see how leaves or solid debris could get in. but not likely. Water into that pump I can believe *if water came up from underneath. Hewitt's solution to pump codes or electric codes is a plug in without taking the intake off. But honestly, if you've had your plastic intake off one time before I think regular guys could have it off again in 20 minutes.

this a partial list of SAI related codes, not complete.

all these codes were lifted from hewitt.



P0412 - System Switching Valve 'A' Circuit Malfunction
P0415 - Switching Valve 'B' Circuit Malfunction
P0416 - Switching Valve 'B' Circuit Open
P0417 - Switching Valve 'B' Circuit Shorted
P0418 - Relay 'B' Circuit Malfunction
P0419 - Relay 'B' Circuit Malfunction
P1440 - Vacuum Switching Valve Circuit Malfunction Bank 1
P1443 - Vacuum Switching Valve Circuit Malfunction Bank 2
P1441 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Open Bank 1
P1442 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Close Bank 1
P1444 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Open Bank 2
P1445 - Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Close Bank 2
P1613 - Driver Malfunction Bank 1
P1614 - Driver Malfunction Bank 2
P2431 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Bank1
P2432 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Bank 1
P2433 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1
P2436 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Bank 2
P2437 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Bank 2
P2438 - Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 2
P2440 - System Switching Valve Stuck Open Bank 1
P2441 - System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1
P2443 - System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 2
P2444 - System Pump Stuck ON Bank 1
P2445 - System Pump Stuck OFF Bank 1
P2446 - System Pump Stuck On Bank 2
P2447 - System Pump Stuck Off Bank 2
if anyone else has any insight I'd like to hear it. I've been reading a ton. I want to know and understand more, and figure out how to delete the whole thing

SAI picture.jpg
 
God, I dropped one of the block off plates by the fuse box as I was installing. I spent two hours looking and can't find it. Then I went to see prices, $55 for a set. sheesh. I emailed them and asked for just one.

it's entirely possible to install both sides with a short/er 10mm gear wrench. The thinner the wall on the wrench the better.

Double check your wiring instructions if you hardwire. The sheet they sent is different than the one on their website.
 
Anyone who owns an 06+ should just install the bypass and be done. Seriously not worth the hassle.
 
Hey Guys,
Paul with www.hewitt-tech.com just ran across this thread and saw some good questions and a few good answers.
We have been selling our bypass kits for 6 years or so and since we started have updated them and come out with new products to address certain issues. Now that I am on this forum I would be more than happy to answer any other questions or discuss our products with you. We also do custom electronics and harnesses.

A couple of things I have seen and can cover easily are:
Im dragging my feet on this. Do you normally get a fair amount of high pitched whining prior to failure?
The shop vac noise for 30s-1min is very common before a full pump motor failure but it is not always the case.

After doing some research regarding the bypass module, it seems that some users are reporting a P011B error code in warm weather resulting in a CEL. This appears to be mostly on 5.7 motors and using the current eBay seller's plug and play module.

I found out about this after ordering the module. While I don't have any issue with my Air Injection Pump at this time, I wanted to be prepared should the situation arise. Do you presently have any issues with your bypass?

The P011B is a temperature correlation code that came up on the 2008 and later years when we first started to see those systems fail and our older units. This issue has been resolved with our V50 and newer units which are specific to the 08 and newer which is after they changed how that coorelation test was performed.

If you used the plug and play why the need to connect a wire to the starter relay?
The starter relay wire simply ensures that the module is activated when you actually crank the vehicle so it can prevent the system from running. Our current modules are activated when you first turn the ignition to on and then again when it senses the ECM signal to the starter relay. This is mostly a "just install it" and don't worry about having to always crank the engine immediately from the off position.

so, I'm sorry, I read and searched a little more and found the hewitt page with lots of code
Codes
good read.
IMHO it seems a bit too much money to clear a few codes when there are at least 20 or 30 more that relate.
But I'd gladly pay someone 500 to eliminate an entire SAI system from monitoring. How could I accomplish that?

We Are Working On It! There are quite a few more codes that we are able to take care of now with the addition of a pump pack or pressure sensor harness but ask us if you have one that you think isn't covered. The current kits can only prevent the system from running which is why we hope to have out this year an actual SAIS Delete Kit that would actually allow you to remove everything. As it is the ECM combined with the air injection control driver is still looking for everything to be connected and within electrical spec which is the reason the current units cannot take care of a lot of the circuit codes and you can't just remove the components.

Please feel free to call us toll free or email us directly.
844-307-7673
support@hewitt-tech.com
 
I forgot to say that Hewitt sent me a spare block off plate for free, I think her name was Susan. I was surprised and happy about that. Thank you again.
 
I just read all the posts on the tundra forum. This is interesting. Does anyone else have an 06-07 that has had this issue? just curious at what mileage these failures are taking place?
Mine just happened at 160000
 
And you did ??????to repair it
I just ordered a bypass kit. My Toyota master mechanic friend said he could do it for $795 but I would rather spend $179 and bypass it. He sells factory rebuilt units on eBay if anyone is interested in doing this repair. What are your thoughts on it?
 
I just ordered a bypass kit. My Toyota master mechanic friend said he could do it for $795 but I would rather spend $179 and bypass it. He sells factory rebuilt units on eBay if anyone is interested in doing this repair. What are your thoughts on it?

When the time comes I will also do the bypass.

Posting up on your install would be appreciated.;)
 
I don't like that I hardwired it. I wish I would have went with the plug ins. I would rather be able to undo the thing and put back to stock quickly to do any diagnosing or repairs. Interrupting the IAT might make it harder in the future to fix any issues.
On the few cold start, cold ambient days down here I could definitely tell something different was happening regarding idle. In all other conditions, I can't tell it's there.
 
I just ordered a bypass kit. My Toyota master mechanic friend said he could do it for $795 but I would rather spend $179 and bypass it. He sells factory rebuilt units on eBay if anyone is interested in doing this repair. What are your thoughts on it?

We have not heard good things from our customers about the aftermarket parts (or factory for that matter) or taking the time to clean and rebuild the pumps or valves. They typically have the same problems in a short period of time and end up calling us after wasting the money and effort. I don't know anything about your guys rebuilt stuff specifically but it can't be any better than the remanufactured stuff from A1 Cardone that you can find.

I don't like that I hardwired it. I wish I would have went with the plug ins. I would rather be able to undo the thing and put back to stock quickly to do any diagnosing or repairs. Interrupting the IAT might make it harder in the future to fix any issues.
On the few cold start, cold ambient days down here I could definitely tell something different was happening regarding idle. In all other conditions, I can't tell it's there.

We would be glad to offer you some sort of partial credit for your wired kit if you wanted to upgrade to the plug and play.
You should not notice anything different with your idle, the unit is only active for a fraction of a second. On the wired module connecting the two module wires to the cut factory wire backwards can have this affect. Check over all your connections so they exactly match the wiring diagram. You could also just be used to the way it was idling when your system was damaged and in limp mode or had a valve stuck open.

If anyone has any troubles or questions about the units before or after install please contact us direct by phone or email and we can get you sorted out promptly.

support@hewitt-tech.com
Toll Free 844-207-7671
 
I assume it's wired correctly. I did it on a cold day after two days of the pump wine. I never had any DTC's, I put it in before any failures. After install I didn't have the pump whine later that day, cold, and next morning cold also. It's been great for more that two months with probably 3 or 4 cold days since mid December.
What was different was the initial rev up and falling off of RPMs for the first 1 or 2 seconds or so.

I used this wiring that Rebecca sent in a separate email Untitled.jpg which was different from the one sent with the control module. I'm 100% I wired it like this picture.
 
I'm anal and particular. Thank you for your product, I appreciate it. And thanks for the extra block off plate.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom