06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I can't imagine a mechanic noticing either the module or block off plates. They would have to be very familiar with a 100 series and specifically looking for it. Let me put it this way, when I had my truck at Slee, admittedly they weren't looking for it, but they didn't notice it until I pointed it out to them. If you have other stuff going on in the engine bay like a dual battery, compressor, and/or fusebox, it would be virtually impossible to see it.

Yes, you can install the bypass after a failure (that's what most end up doing by default) and yes, you can install the module on the trail and wait until you're home to do the block off plates. That said, if the valves failed and stuck open rather than closed, it's possible that hot exhaust gasses could get through and potentially damage something else if the block off plates aren't installed. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.


Thank you very much for your reply. This helps a lot.
 
Just got zapped by the air induction gremlins. My truck is a 2006 with 58,000 miles. It was after driving in 106 degree heat and then leaving it parked. It did not go into limp mode, just CEL came on. Codes stored showed this has happen six times but I never got a CEL light until now. I was able to reset it by unplugging the battery. I just ordered the plug and play by-pass kit from EBAY and will let everyone know how it goes.
 
Just got zapped by the air induction gremlins. My truck is a 2006 with 58,000 miles. It was after driving in 106 degree heat and then leaving it parked. It did not go into limp mode, just CEL came on. Codes stored showed this has happen six times but I never got a CEL light until now. I was able to reset it by unplugging the battery. I just ordered the plug and play by-pass kit from EBAY and will let everyone know how it goes.

That is uncharacteristic of it. The system does not activate if the ambient temperature is above 41°F.
 
I understand that it is designed for emissions in colder environments. I could not find anything relating to it failing at a certain temperature on the Tundra forums. My codes are P1442/P1445/P2441 all related to the switching valve. What puzzles me was not having any issues or CEL then having six codes at once. I'm also glad I did not get stuck in limp mode pulling my camper or somewhere remote. I thought of doing this as preventive maintenance issue but honestly thought my truck had too few miles on it. :bang:
 
The air induction system is just a pointless system. Why do they add such pointless systems on gas engines when diesels are chucking out so much crap. Just ban diesels and smell the fresh air.
 
Its because of the U.S. Government. The same reason Toyota only sells the 200 series here. I have gotten several requests for the link of the plug and play kit that I ordered. I purchased it this morning and it has already shipped. Toyota 4.7L Air Induction Pump Bypass Kit & Exhaust Port Plates - NO CUTTING !
 
Well I drove the truck all week with the check engine light on and never went into limp mode. It took me a total of 5 minutes to replace the module with the kit. The block off plates are another story. I soaked the threads with liquid wrench. I decided to start on the driver's side as it has more room. My truck is an AZ rust free truck. I put very little pressue on the nuts with a 10mm open end wrench. It's a very tight area. I was successfull in breaking off both studs. Then things got better and I was bit in the back by a scorpion. No way in Hell to get a drill in there, to drill them out, or to use an easy out. Any suggestions? Can't drive the truck as it has a huge exhaust leak when not connected. Bolts could be used if drilled out. I tried several different drills of all types and angles. It's to tight with the fire wall.
 
Well I drove the truck all week with the check engine light on and never went into limp mode. It took me a total of 5 minutes to replace the module with the kit. The block off plates are another story. I soaked the threads with liquid wrench. I decided to start on the driver's side as it has more room. My truck is an AZ rust free truck. I put very little pressue on the nuts with a 10mm open end wrench. It's a very tight area. I was successfull in breaking off both studs. Then things got better and I was bit in the back by a scorpion. No way in Hell to get a drill in there, to drill them out, or to use an easy out. Any suggestions? Can't drive the truck as it has a huge exhaust leak when not connected. Bolts could be used if drilled out. I tried several different drills of all types and angles. It's to tight with the fire wall.

Now Im scared:eek:

Can you post a picture?
 
I left it at my Dads until I figure out plan B. He has cooler tools than I do and I was working on it there. I'm going to give Murph a call to see what he thinks it would run at his shop. My work schedule is jacked for three more weeks. If I end up taking it to CBT I will let you know so you can check it out. I would also research the tundra forums to see if the plates are necessary.
 
Just an FYI and in case anyone has any experience with this or ideas - I installed the plug and play system a month ago, including the block off plates, as a preventive measure into my 2007 LC. Yesterday I started getting a code for the mass air flow sensor - p0102. I tried cleaning the sensor, no luck. Finally I removed the bypass cable and the truck runs fine. I have emailed the seller for his thoughts and a replacement.

In the meantime, any idea if I am ok driving the truck with the block off plates installed but not the bypass cable? Any thoughts on what might have happened to make that code throw? Cable malfunction? Cable too close to other wires?
 
So I'm new to the 100 Series. I've been reading this thread and am trying to figure out which plug and play kit I should go with? The Hewitt kit or the tmr185 eBay kit? Any schools of thought? Aside from the price difference and the fact that the Hewitt kit has the starter relay wire, they seem very similar.

Thanks
 
I left it at my Dads until I figure out plan B. He has cooler tools than I do and I was working on it there. I'm going to give Murph a call to see what he thinks it would run at his shop. My work schedule is jacked for three more weeks. If I end up taking it to CBT I will let you know so you can check it out. I would also research the tundra forums to see if the plates are necessary.

What ever happened?
 
Just wanted to chime in and say that this happened to mine almost exactly a year ago, 2006 LX. Leaving work truck went into Limp mode, barley made it back shop. Toyota dealer quoted me 2200$. My family was leaving for road trip 1 week later so i was desperate, and commissioned the work. I did contact Lexus and complained, then ended up sending me a check for $1000 to help. Still wish i would have know about this.
 
Any have any thoughts on either of the two kits discussed here? One better than the other?
 
I was going to order one yesterday but 259$ hewitt, or 179$ ebay makes me think twice. They use to be cheap, correct? The pump is 150$ maybe cheaper elsewhere idk. I won't cut my harness.
I have no info or records if mine has been changed or not. I'm at 173k miles on mine. More than likely this LC has never seen temps below 50 degrees.
 
I ordered the hewitt splice in to the harness kit for my wife's 06. Very nice product and all but done. I'm having trouble identifying the starter relay so I can get the last connection hooked up. Anyone have a clue where that is on an 06? I pulled the relay that is labeled starter and it doesn't appear to be the starter relay.

EDIT: never mind it was the starter relay.
 
Last edited:
does anyone know which codes will get suppressed with the bypass? I just wonder if I can eliminate the pumps, etc, under the intake and any other stuff I can find.
IMG_20161001_102054.jpg
 
does anyone know which codes will get suppressed with the bypass? I just wonder if I can eliminate the pumps, etc, under the intake and any other stuff I can find.
View attachment 1336871

From reading through the main thread on tundra solutions, no everything has to be there and in working order (or no electrical problems) for the kit to work. There was mention that it can be done but the appropriate resistors would need to be put in the wiring to trick the ecu to think that everything was there and working. No specifics past that.
 
so, I'm sorry, I read and searched a little more and found the hewitt page with lots of code
Codes
good read.
IMHO it seems a bit too much money to clear a few codes when there are at least 20 or 30 more that relate.
But I'd gladly pay someone 500 to eliminate an entire SAI system from monitoring. How could I accomplish that?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom