470SNC
03 GX470
sliders look awesome!
Builds '05 GX470 "build"... (2 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #42
OK, so here's my more complete slider install:
To recap, these are the 'Outpost Off Road' sliders from Metal-Tech. I bought them in raw steel...but they offer a powdercoating option, I believe.
The came via UPS, like so:
(this is the pass. side)
To paint them: I hit them with some 100-grit, cleaned them with mineral spirits, and then used self-etching primer. Top coated them with Rustoleum satin black 'industrial enamel'...than a second top coat of a bronze-metallic (trying to match the color of my wheels...it came out too light - Oh well).
Check out the mounting 'feet' (front is to the left, in the picture above). According to the instructions (that I had to source online) - The front (top bolt) bolts to one existing hole in the frame, and uses a rivnut for the bottom bolt. The middle uses a ~5" long bolt through existing holes in the frame, and uses a rivnut on the bottom (for one of the holes I guess, I did not receive enough hardware for the other...more on that later). The rear mount uses a U-bolt to go around the frame...
So, as I posted earlier...I don't like rivnut's for something that might be used to jack my truck up. I guess that was a forgone conclusion, as I also didn't receive enough hardware to install -OR- use the big rivnut for the middle mount (got left out of my hardware bag, I dunno???).
After careful examination, I decided I could through-bolt the front lower bolt hole with a 5.5" long, Grade-8 bolt (the inside of the frame is double walled here, FYI). So that's one solution to my rivnut bias:
The rear was simple, but it's hard to fish that U-bolt around the frame. It has to pass UNDER the brake lines that are on top of the frame, and getting the slider onto the u-bolt is made harder by the e-brake cable that's in the way...but it's not too bad. Nothing more here, just a pic:
The middle mount is where I really see room for improvement over the rivnut. The big through-bolt that comes with the sliders is perfect - It comes with a large backing plate, as you use an existing rectangular hole in the frame (both inside and out). For the bottom of the frame (this mounting plate is L-shaped), there are 2 holes...and only one rivnut (?). Again, I was missing some hardware, so maybe there should be 2 (?).
The opportunity for improvement: The big rectangular hole I mentioned earlier is right above the lower bolt holes...and should allow a 1" wide / 5" long plate with nuts welded to it for these 2 bolts. Sort of a captured nut backing plate. I'll fab one up, drill the second hole (one is existing) and drop it in there in the near future - For now, I just have it mounted with the large through bolt:
(yes, there is a gap between the mount and the frame in this pic...it was still loose when taken)
So that's that...
As I said before, I'm happy with the product overall...and the missing hardware was a moot point for me. I always intended to find a way to do it differently.
...
Next up: Work on the (inside) spare tire carrier...
- Brian
To recap, these are the 'Outpost Off Road' sliders from Metal-Tech. I bought them in raw steel...but they offer a powdercoating option, I believe.
The came via UPS, like so:
(this is the pass. side)
To paint them: I hit them with some 100-grit, cleaned them with mineral spirits, and then used self-etching primer. Top coated them with Rustoleum satin black 'industrial enamel'...than a second top coat of a bronze-metallic (trying to match the color of my wheels...it came out too light - Oh well).
Check out the mounting 'feet' (front is to the left, in the picture above). According to the instructions (that I had to source online) - The front (top bolt) bolts to one existing hole in the frame, and uses a rivnut for the bottom bolt. The middle uses a ~5" long bolt through existing holes in the frame, and uses a rivnut on the bottom (for one of the holes I guess, I did not receive enough hardware for the other...more on that later). The rear mount uses a U-bolt to go around the frame...
So, as I posted earlier...I don't like rivnut's for something that might be used to jack my truck up. I guess that was a forgone conclusion, as I also didn't receive enough hardware to install -OR- use the big rivnut for the middle mount (got left out of my hardware bag, I dunno???).
After careful examination, I decided I could through-bolt the front lower bolt hole with a 5.5" long, Grade-8 bolt (the inside of the frame is double walled here, FYI). So that's one solution to my rivnut bias:
The rear was simple, but it's hard to fish that U-bolt around the frame. It has to pass UNDER the brake lines that are on top of the frame, and getting the slider onto the u-bolt is made harder by the e-brake cable that's in the way...but it's not too bad. Nothing more here, just a pic:
The middle mount is where I really see room for improvement over the rivnut. The big through-bolt that comes with the sliders is perfect - It comes with a large backing plate, as you use an existing rectangular hole in the frame (both inside and out). For the bottom of the frame (this mounting plate is L-shaped), there are 2 holes...and only one rivnut (?). Again, I was missing some hardware, so maybe there should be 2 (?).
The opportunity for improvement: The big rectangular hole I mentioned earlier is right above the lower bolt holes...and should allow a 1" wide / 5" long plate with nuts welded to it for these 2 bolts. Sort of a captured nut backing plate. I'll fab one up, drill the second hole (one is existing) and drop it in there in the near future - For now, I just have it mounted with the large through bolt:
(yes, there is a gap between the mount and the frame in this pic...it was still loose when taken)
So that's that...
As I said before, I'm happy with the product overall...and the missing hardware was a moot point for me. I always intended to find a way to do it differently.
...
Next up: Work on the (inside) spare tire carrier...
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #43
Oh, and here's a second installed pic:
(I hit the step pads with a coat of Duplicolor spray-on bedliner, left over from a previous project)
- Brian
(I hit the step pads with a coat of Duplicolor spray-on bedliner, left over from a previous project)
- Brian
470SNC
03 GX470
dude, you are the man for posting those leg mount photos, been trying to get someone to do that. For the long bolts installed instead of the rivnuts, does the hole already go all the way through the frame rail or did you have to drill all the way through?
- Thread starter
- #45
Glad to be of service...! I actually made a point to get pics of the mounts, as I looked online for the same when I was trying to decide what to buy...and found nothing.
The front mount (lower hole) has no existing holes - You even have to mark/drill for the rivnut. I did drill all the way through, my 1/2" drill bit was barely long enough...but it made it. The cat is in the way on the inside of the frame rail, so you're doing all the drilling from the outside.
The middle mount (for the bottom of the frame) has one existing hole. I think they intend that you use that one as a pilot, and open it up a little to fit the 5/8" (BIG) rivnut.
I'll use that existing hole, plus drill a new one...and then use new bolts to attach it to the backing plate I'm going to drop into the frame (through the big rectangle opening).
Hope that helps...
- Brian
Looks great, Brian! What's next?
little_joe
SILVER Star
Now that it's warming up a bit, I plan to paint my OPOR sliders and get them on, so I really appreciate the insight on mounting them.
What I am curious about: how did you cut the running board so neatly? That is an awesome touch and I intend to do it now as well.
BTW the 4R "pintle hitch" bolts on, they're easy to find used for cheap, and new they're like $160. The Lexus part is identical, just marked up.
What I am curious about: how did you cut the running board so neatly? That is an awesome touch and I intend to do it now as well.
BTW the 4R "pintle hitch" bolts on, they're easy to find used for cheap, and new they're like $160. The Lexus part is identical, just marked up.
- Thread starter
- #48
Thanks. Next up is an interior spare tire carrier...gonna use the pass. side 3rd row seat mount as the basis for it.
Now that it's warming up a bit, I plan to paint my OPOR sliders and get them on, so I really appreciate the insight on mounting them.
What I am curious about: how did you cut the running board so neatly? That is an awesome touch and I intend to do it now as well.
BTW the 4R "pintle hitch" bolts on, they're easy to find used for cheap, and new they're like $160. The Lexus part is identical, just marked up.
Glad to help with some insight on the sliders. It's nice to be able to give back - I found a ton of useful info online when planning my "mods", so it's kind of my duty to pay it forward, so to speak.
As for cutting the running boards: I used a new, sharp razor blade. The only real trimming you have to do is the first 6" or so, and the rear 3-4".
The rest of the painted part is held onto the black step portion by just a few tabs (that are riveted to the aluminum bracing), maybe one every 12". So you cut those tabs off, and 95% of the upper trim piece is free from the rest of the step. (This will make more sense once you have the step off, and are looking at the top of it).
Then I cut the ends off, but left WAY too much of the plastic.
Once I held the whole piece up for a test fit, I used painters tape and marked a line that looked good from the side. Then carefully trimmed the rest off. A shallow cut with a razor makes a line that you can follow, going deeper on each pass. Probably took 4 full cuts (over the same line) to slice off the excess.
As for the pintle / bolt-on hitch - Yeah, I found that only after I had bought parts to make my own. I really should have returned the steel and receiver tube to 'Tractor Supply'...but I was stubborn and saw it through. I had to post it here to partially justify the effort (in my head). Hehe...
- Brian
So have you put weight on the sliders or tried to pick the truck up with a hi-lift? I'm just curious to see how much they move if at all.
Great, thank you for posting! I am also eager to see how much give they have when weight is applied. I'll be either going sliders or hold out longer for my bumper.
- Thread starter
- #51
^^^ Once I finish bolting up the center mount (have to fab a plate with a couple nuts welded on it)...and get the pass. side slider installed...
I'll jack up the truck at the middle of the slider, and I'll post here with results.
- Brian
I'll jack up the truck at the middle of the slider, and I'll post here with results.
- Brian
Awesome. Looking forward to seeing how they do.
- Thread starter
- #53
Last night, I was able to make the backing plate for the bottom bolts on the middle mounting foot:
It dropped right into the frame, and worked perfectly. I have to think this is *much* stronger than 1 (or 2) rivnut's at the same location.
If anyone else wants to do the same, it's 3.75" long, 1" wide, with 3.25" bolt spacing (center to center).
I used grade-8 equivalent (class 10.9) bolts, M10x1.5...they are about 2" long.
...
Now that both are on, and have bolts in every mounting hole - I'll try to jack the truck up by the slider, and see how much it deflects. For science
- Brian
It dropped right into the frame, and worked perfectly. I have to think this is *much* stronger than 1 (or 2) rivnut's at the same location.
If anyone else wants to do the same, it's 3.75" long, 1" wide, with 3.25" bolt spacing (center to center).
I used grade-8 equivalent (class 10.9) bolts, M10x1.5...they are about 2" long.
...
Now that both are on, and have bolts in every mounting hole - I'll try to jack the truck up by the slider, and see how much it deflects. For science
- Brian
Great write up, thanks the pictures are great also.
One question, how did you pull the running boards without breaking all of the clips? Is there a special tool or technique?
Thanks in advance, and thanks again for the write up.
One question, how did you pull the running boards without breaking all of the clips? Is there a special tool or technique?
Thanks in advance, and thanks again for the write up.
- Thread starter
- #55
^^^ Thanks...!!!
Very carefully...! Took me 45 minutes all told, to remove all the clips on both sides. I removed all but one without breaking it...but it was painstaking work.
Those little clips have tabs that need to be pushed in evenly on both sides (directly from the left and right), then they pop right out. I used a (very) small screwdriver for one side, and held that tab in...then stuck a pick under the other side, and tried to apply just enough force/pressure to depress the tab...while prying out just a little, the whole time. It took a minimum of 4-5 tries for each one - Some went easier than others, some took 5 minutes to come out without breaking.
There's probably an expensive Toyota tool for removing those things...!
I initially tried a pair of medical hemostats (really small needle nose pliers with a slight curve at the end), and they weren't really helpful...they couldn't reach the tabs.
Hope that helps. With patience and perseverance, you'll get it done with minimal breakage!
- Brian
Very carefully...! Took me 45 minutes all told, to remove all the clips on both sides. I removed all but one without breaking it...but it was painstaking work.
Those little clips have tabs that need to be pushed in evenly on both sides (directly from the left and right), then they pop right out. I used a (very) small screwdriver for one side, and held that tab in...then stuck a pick under the other side, and tried to apply just enough force/pressure to depress the tab...while prying out just a little, the whole time. It took a minimum of 4-5 tries for each one - Some went easier than others, some took 5 minutes to come out without breaking.
There's probably an expensive Toyota tool for removing those things...!
I initially tried a pair of medical hemostats (really small needle nose pliers with a slight curve at the end), and they weren't really helpful...they couldn't reach the tabs.
Hope that helps. With patience and perseverance, you'll get it done with minimal breakage!
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #56
Alright, I finally got a chance to see how well the sliders did when holding the weight of the truck on them...but it was quick-n-dirty, as it was already dark, and my jack was just short of getting the tires off the ground.
The verdict: They deflected maybe 1/8" with damn near half the weight of the truck on them.
With no pressure from the jack, they sit about an eighth of an inch below the trimmed running board:
With the jack all the way up (tires were still touching the driveway, but they were nearly unloaded):
(notice that you can't see between the top of the slider and the trim, like before)
And here's a fuzzy shot of what it looked like at max lift:
So, not very scientific...but I think it's good enough to give the OPOR sliders a check mark for either build quality or rigidity.
- Brian
The verdict: They deflected maybe 1/8" with damn near half the weight of the truck on them.
With no pressure from the jack, they sit about an eighth of an inch below the trimmed running board:
With the jack all the way up (tires were still touching the driveway, but they were nearly unloaded):
(notice that you can't see between the top of the slider and the trim, like before)
And here's a fuzzy shot of what it looked like at max lift:
So, not very scientific...but I think it's good enough to give the OPOR sliders a check mark for either build quality or rigidity.
- Brian
ACC actually notched the seams on the bottom of my body to "tuck" my custom built sliders up closer. While not a typical approach (and probably not something many want to do) I think it is pretty cool
- Thread starter
- #58
Came out from lunch and found a real life 'before and after':
...
Nothing new on the 'build', haven't found time to make any more progress. Hopefully this weekend I can get started on the spare tire carrier.
- Brian
...
Nothing new on the 'build', haven't found time to make any more progress. Hopefully this weekend I can get started on the spare tire carrier.
- Brian
i really like the progress! thats some great info on the sliders and the trimming of the running boards, thanks for the pics! i love how your rig is coming along. im also happy to see some good shots of those ST MAXX tires in the 255 flavor. i think im gonna stick with the 285s, i kinda like a wider tire for floating on sand and snow. but those are the tires i want to run. i have heard people complain about them being loud? any validity to that. though i typically like the mud tire hum/roar, on the GX i might not, and while i do want to get a louder exhaust i dont want drone or ridiculous. but i want to hear that good V8 rumble when i get into it, other wise i was quiet around town. care to share your thoughts or input and observation?
I am out of my league here in this forum, but at the Indi BMW shop I once worked in, we would often remove the resonator from the exhaust system on the v8 powered vehicles. Left them with a great low grumble that would encourage judicious use of skinny pedal while remaining civilized when necessary.
Again, leaving the oem cats, and stock muffler intact, only removing a small "can" from the system and replacing with a piece of pipe, produced a more satisfying tone than most aftermarket mufflers alone on the bimmers.
Does the GX have anything like this toward the rear of the vehicle, near the muffler?
Worth a shot?
Could also look to what the guys running the teq v8 sedans have...
