Builds '05 GX470 "build"... (1 Viewer)

[orion]

Hey guys...great forum, I learned a lot here in planning the modifications to my new-to-me 2005 GX470.

A little background: I have mostly been a track car guy for the last ~15 years...been racing (SCCA) and doing track days in a heavily modified 240SX. After having a couple kids, I haven't been able to get to the track very much...and found myself looking to do something automotive related, that I could bring the kids along.

That led to the purchase of a '07 FJ Cruiser "TRD Edition"...which is a great truck, but a little small for my growing family. We are all kind of tall, so it's cramped in there. The logical next step was a bigger FJ, one with a V8 and 4 doors!

Started looking for a GX470 at the end of last year, and looked hard at a couple 2004's locally...but they just didn't do it for me (I preferred the '05 engine updates, and didn't want navigation).

Finally stumbled across a pearl white / no navigation / non-KDSS 2005 at a dealership in Orlando...110k miles with a documented timing belt change.

Bought it exactly 3 weeks ago today, then started ordering parts the next day.

[to be continued, below...]

 

[orion]

Turns out, the truck had a bad driver's front wheel bearing...and the previous owner must have rubbed every parking pole / car /whatever every time (she!) parked. Every corner had a scratch or scuff! No big deal, IMO...just adds character!

I replaced the wheel bearing with a new unit from "BluePitBearings", and then dug right into the suspension lift:

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Bilstein 5100's (set to the 2nd notch)
ToyTec 3" (FJ/4Runner) lift coils (Eibach 112620)
Light Racing (SPC) Upper control arms

REAR SUSPENSION:
ToyTec "Superflex" springs (not the HD ones)
Bilstein 5100 shocks

WHEELS AND TIRES:
17x8" Level 8 MK6 wheels, -10 offset
255/80-17 Cooper ST Maxx tires (went skinnier + taller for a compromise between on road and off)

Here's a before and after shot:

Drives great, looks great...I couldn't be happier.

The suspension netted me 2.75" of lift up front, and 1.5" in the rear (versus the air springs adjusted to something between "normal" and "high").

[to be continued, below...]

 

[orion]

I'll post more (w/ details + pics) this weekend as I have time...but I wanted to get this "build thread" off the ground for now.

FUTURE PLANS:
Inside spare tire carrier (going to use the pass. side 3rd row seat attachment points for a custom / easily removable spare tire carrier)
Metaltech / OPOR Sliders (my kids could use a little step to get in, and it offers some protection)
Exhaust (thinking about a Magnaflow 22" muffler welded onto the stock piping)
Vinyl applied over the burlwood interior (I don't like the look)

...

So that's it for now, thanks for looking.

- Brian

 

[ufg8r]

Looks good so far Brian! Sliders are better sooner than later if you'll be bringing it up here.....

 

[Kross]

Looking good so far.

Question, did you consider a LC or LX? Id so, what made you go GX? I'm new to this world and I'm trying to iron out the differences.

 

[little_joe]

That looks great, nice work so far!

 

[IanB]

Sharp GX!

 

[mracer]

Looks great! Look forward to more pics and your thoughts on the tires. I am considering the same tires and size.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Nice truck!!!

 

[orion]

Thanks for all the positive feedback so far, guys!

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Question, did you consider a LC or LX? Id so, what made you go GX? I'm new to this world and I'm trying to iron out the differences.

Sort of. I was looking for a nice, lower mile 80-series (like a 3x locked '97)...but they are few and far between, and command serious $$$. I wanted less than 120k on whatever I bought, and that's near impossible to find on an 80.

As for a ~2000-2001 LandCruiser...I think they look dated. No offense to anyone on here, but they look (their design is) dated. The GX looks like a newer SUV. Plus, the ones I found were $18-20k for a similar example to this GX470.

Same deal for the LX. Higher cost, dated exterior (IMO).

So for me, it was easy...the GX checked all the right boxes. Plus, they are more plentiful...and it seems they can be had cheaper, as the word isn't out completely to the enthusiast/off road community (at least it seems like that).

- Brian

 

[orion]

OK, update time! Here's how I got it to where it is today...

After buying the truck, I ordered a bunch of stuff:

The front shocks were slow to arrive, so I started at the back of the truck...

REAR SUSPENSION:

I think the removal of the rear air suspension and electronic shocks has been pretty well covered, here and elsewhere.

So have airbag to coil spring conversions...

...

Where I differed on the install was by NOT using FJ Cruiser upper spring perches (something like $60/each, no thanks). I was brainstorming on how to keep the spring centered in the upper perch, and came across an idea at Harbor Freight (yikes!).

Solid plastic caster, 5.25" diameter, $6. It's not holding any load, it's just keeping the spring in place and centered. The spring is riding on the metal upper perch where the airbag used to reside.

Another pic, installed:

Works great, no creaks or moans from the the rear suspension...and should be very durable in this role.

As for rear shocks - I had read that Bilstein 5100's for an FJ were "a couple inches longer", or at least allowed for a couple more inches of articulation. By my measurement, it's about an inch longer...

[...to be continued, next post...]

 

[orion]

Rear shocks, continued --->

A close-up:

Seems like it will be an improvement for droop travel.

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And now we're getting somewhere:

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Something worth mentioning:

I think a major overlooked step in lifting/lowering a vehicle is loosening all the the suspension arms, and re-torquing at the NEW ride height.

The arms/links on this truck, or more specifically the bushings...have been torqued in place for over 100,000 miles. They want to go back to where they were, at a ride height 2-2.5" lower. This wears the bushings, binds things, etc...nothing good.

Along the way, I loosened every suspension arm bolt, at both ends...hit them with some teflon lube spray, and then tightened them when the truck was finished and sitting on level ground.

Similar deal for the swaybar bushings - Made sure to not overlook them. They were bone dry. That can't be good for ride quality or articulation. I used some rubber-friendly grease and lubed them up while I was there.

...

I also tried to address the rear swaybar endlinks - They looked a little short, so I was able to extend their reach by 0.75" with some metal spacers I had laying around from some other project:

Not sure how much this might help, if any...but it can't hurt to get things back closer to the OEM geometry (at least take a step in that direction).

...

So, that's all for now - I'll try to cover the front lift and upper arms in my next installment (as long as I'm not boring anyone here!).

Thanks for looking...

- Brian

 

[little_joe]

Great point about the suspension bushings - if the bolt isn't seized to the sleeve! I would imagine some would simply remove the nut and retighten at new ride height, I'd suggest adding a provision to make sure the bolt itself can be spun. I'd also be inclined to fully remove the bolt (use a rod or drift to keep the bushing/mount in alignment), clean it up and apply some anti-seize or other lube.

 

[IanB]

I love the castor wheel spring retainer idea, good work!

 

[orion]

^^^ Thanks!

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For a quick update post here at lunchtime...here's a shot of the rear WeatherTech cargo mat, cut out for the tie down points and 3rd row seat attachment points:

Can't take credit for the idea, someone else on here (I believe, maybe Club Lexus?) posted a similar picture...and I thought it was a great option.

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I'll try to post about my front suspension install, and my custom trailer hitch receiver "install" tonight.

- Brian

 

[470SNC]

love the wheels +lift, great looking rig, white was my second choice!

 

[orion]

^^^ Thanks!

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So, onto the front suspension...

Nothing groundbreaking here, except it seems like everyone runs ICON or Iron Man. I opted for Eibach/ToyTec lift coils (#112-620) plus height adjustable Bilstein 5100's set to the 2nd notch.

The stock coils are ~590lbs/in (from what I read online, elsewhere)...the ToyTec's are 620lbs/in, and slightly longer:

They are good for 2.5" of lift on the front of a 4th Gen 4Runner...so I set the Bilstein's at the second notch / +0.85" setting for a little extra height - This got me right at 2.75" total lift from stock.

I also added Light Racing (made by SPC) upper control arms (UCA's)...set the adjustable ball joint at "0", so they should give only an additional 2-degrees of caster (which should allow stock alignment specs at less than 3" of lift, from what others have posted - Specifically, 4Runner guys).

The install of the UCA's was easy for the drivers side...there was just enough room to slide that 12" bolt out of the mount. On the passenger side, I had to *gently* pry the head of the bolt past the power steering pump feed hose...but I got it done. Not too bad.

[no pics of these]

As I mentioned earlier, the front shocks were delayed by a day or two in shipping...which allowed time for the wheels and tires to come in. I was able to get them mounted, and drive it out of the garage at this point.

I did a simple string alignment for toe and camber...a real alignment will come in the near future.

[TO BE CONTINUED...]

 

[orion]

Of course, with the larger tires...the stock running boards had to be removed.

However, I didn't like the unfinished look at the bottom of the front fender / under the doors with the running board off.

So I had an idea:

I cut off the top inch of the running board, and reinstalled it:

I'll have to do a little more trimming here, as it still rubs a little...but it's aesthetically pleasing!

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The end result:

2.75" front suspension lift
1.5" rear suspension lift

Plus an additional 1.5" from the larger tires.

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One additional bit of info: Stock wheels and tires were 62lbs...the new setup is 83lbs per corner. Even with the additional weight, AND the reduced gearing from the larger diameter tires...I don't even notice it when driving. Seriously. The V8 in this truck has great low-end, it more than makes up for the size/weight...!

- Brian

 

[orion]

So...when I bought the truck, it didn't have a tow hitch. I looked at the factory Lexus hitch (the Class III that bolts to the bumper)...no thanks, at nearly $300!

The other, more standard options were half as much...but they hung down really low. Like 3.5-4" lower than the bumper (to the bottom of the hitch).

I wanted one solely for a cargo carrier, so a light-duty option would be fine. And I wanted to save a buck.

I'm not going to use it as a recovery point, as I added a second (factory) tow hook to the passenger side...which I will use with the OEM tow hook on the drivers rear, with a bridle...for recovery. When I add the muffler, it'll have a new tip with a turn down / turn out so the new passenger side tow hook is accessible.

Anyway - I bought a universal, 18" long 'Curt' receiver tube...some 3/16" thick, 1.5 x 1.5 angle iron...and got to work.

Started by cutting off the factory bracket:

Then I mocked it up, used the angle iron as a brace for the rear (bolted to the tow hook / receiver hitch bolts on the frame)...plus I used another piece of 1/8" thick angle iron to brace it to the rear of the bumper with (2) 7/16" Grade 8 bolts through the receiver tube. Then I added a piece of 3/16" thick, 1" wide flat stock (bent to shape) as an additional brace, below the tubing.

Finally, I welded the rearmost portion to what was left of the factory bracket.

Pictures probably do a better job of showing what the hell I'm rambling about:

Then I cut back the trim piece to fit, and voila!...I had a tow hitch:

(the SmittyBilt "beaver step" is there for parking lot bump protection)

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So why did I just waste a whole post on a boring trailer hitch?

Not sure, really...

I guess because it's indicative of the obsessive approach I'm taking with this "build". I got an idea in my head, and couldn't let it go until I saw it through. Sure, I saved $100 versus a bolt-on hitch...but I also spent a few hours cutting / drilling / welding / painting. But I also gained several inches of ground clearance.

Anyway, that's all for now.

...

Next up: OPOR sliders (ordering tomorrow), 22" Magnaflow muffler (added to the otherwise stock piping), and I'll work on my (interior) spare tire carrier.

Thanks for sticking with me so far...!

- Brian

 

[Pacer]

First GX build I've followed, thanks for the obsessive details. Subscribed.