Thank you, my reasoning for going with a 0 offset wheel is the brand I'm looking at offers a bead lock setup. I'm currently running a 315/70/17 with a +25 offset and I currently have no issues on full stuff. Maybe I'll go back to the drawing board and research more beadlock options.
0 Offset on 34s+ (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wicked0ne18
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icon has a +25mm 17" beadlock rim in 5x150.
yes i was looking at the rebound pros. Although not a traditional bead lock, they do present a feasible option for what Im looking for.
We ran Rubicon again last year and had 3 Cruiser's(100's & a 200) and one of the reasons we run zero offset is because we use our rigs offroad! I know @TeCKis300 makes people think you can run a 35x12.50 on a 200 if you just pick the right offset wheel, just not true, it may be less rubbing, it may rub in different areas etc... I have wheeled with over a dozen different 200's with 35x12.50's, all different setups, different offsets, lifts, spring rates etc... If you actually push your rig and wheel it offroad and don't limit the rear up travel with bigger bumpstops it's going to rub
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Stuffing both rear's simultaneously is where you could really get into trouble with higher off-sets and not addressing the rear bump stops. Went playing in the dunes and got all 4 tires off the ground a few times fully stuffing front and rears on landing. With +35 offset and 35x11.50's I have rub marks about 2" above the sheet metal on the plastic inner fender liners in the rear. With a +0 offset or wider rubber that would have been 2" of sheet metal displaced by tire in the rear.
That said, no hate on the zero off-set setups. For a rig seeing heavy trail use I like having some tire poke to keep my sheet metal off the walls. Just be aware of you go this route, address those bumps stops before you go flying in the dunes or you'll be shopping for some new rear quarter panels (Or taking the sawzall to them and stepping up to 37's...
)Side Note: Question to anyone running fender flares: Would your flares allow you any trimming of the sheet metal? Either as is, or with some modification? I've been considering a serious chop of the wheel wells and 37's when I get around to regearing but want to retain a fender as the mud around here is like nothing I have ever seen and even a little bit of it is a nightmare to clean off.
I have thought of doing rhe same modification with kut snake fender flares. Having a body shop chop the rear 1/4 is a serious mod, thoughStuffing both rear's simultaneously is where you could really get into trouble with higher off-sets and not addressing the rear bump stops. Went playing in the dunes and got all 4 tires off the ground a few times fully stuffing front and rears on landing. With +35 offset and 35x11.50's I have rub marks about 2" above the sheet metal on the plastic inner fender liners in the rear. With a +0 offset or wider rubber that would have been 2" of sheet metal displaced by tire in the rear.
That said, no hate on the zero off-set setups. For a rig seeing heavy trail use I like having some tire poke to keep my sheet metal off the walls. Just be aware of you go this route, address those bumps stops before you go flying in the dunes or you'll be shopping for some new rear quarter panels (Or taking the sawzall to them and stepping up to 37's...
Side Note: Question to anyone running fender flares: Would your flares allow you any trimming of the sheet metal? Either as is, or with some modification? I've been considering a serious chop of the wheel wells and 37's when I get around to regearing but want to retain a fender as the mud around here is like nothing I have ever seen and even a little bit of it is a nightmare to clean off.
btw, which rear bump stops are you running?Stuffing both rear's simultaneously is where you could really get into trouble with higher off-sets and not addressing the rear bump stops. Went playing in the dunes and got all 4 tires off the ground a few times fully stuffing front and rears on landing. With +35 offset and 35x11.50's I have rub marks about 2" above the sheet metal on the plastic inner fender liners in the rear. With a +0 offset or wider rubber that would have been 2" of sheet metal displaced by tire in the rear.
That said, no hate on the zero off-set setups. For a rig seeing heavy trail use I like having some tire poke to keep my sheet metal off the walls. Just be aware of you go this route, address those bumps stops before you go flying in the dunes or you'll be shopping for some new rear quarter panels (Or taking the sawzall to them and stepping up to 37's...
Side Note: Question to anyone running fender flares: Would your flares allow you any trimming of the sheet metal? Either as is, or with some modification? I've been considering a serious chop of the wheel wells and 37's when I get around to regearing but want to retain a fender as the mud around here is like nothing I have ever seen and even a little bit of it is a nightmare to clean off.
We ran Rubicon again last year and had 3 Cruiser's(100's & a 200) and one of the reasons we run zero offset is because we use our rigs offroad! I know @TeCKis300 makes people think you can run a 35x12.50 on a 200 if you just pick the right offset wheel, just not true, it may be less rubbing, it may rub in different areas etc... I have wheeled with over a dozen different 200's with 35x12.50's, all different setups, different offsets, lifts, spring rates etc... If you actually push your rig and wheel it offroad and don't limit the rear up travel with bigger bumpstops it's going to rub
I think we're saying the same thing just coming from different angles. I hope no one takes offense and this is really in the spirit of the forum discussion to help us all mod. Everyone has their own goals and perspectives. Nothing wrong with that.
I do get ever so minor rub on the fender lips and inside the wheel well when fully stuffing the tires. That's different than outright interference that would take out a fender. As I don't run any uptravel limiters, it's so close that I did need to slightly roll the rear fenders. Also needed a hint of negative camber at the front with hand folded fender tabs. This all on milder Toyo AT3 tires, so with more aggressive tires, these steps alone may not work.
I love the forum discussions but in the last month I have received a half a dozen PM's on running zero offset because people just don't want to deal with all the haters jumping in. I don't care what offset people run or what they do or don't do with their rig, I try to provide real world experience with people and what mods are necessary to achieve the goal they are looking for for their rig and their use on or offroad. There are drawbacks to every mod we make to our rigs, tradeoffs etc... Feedback is great for pluses and minuses but when people can set their watch to knowing you will jump right on them the minute they post in this thread that's kinda weird man, just saying
It's the zero offset thread! We need to get some poke pictures in here and various bumpstop option / camparos.
Also would love to see some sheet metal modifications mild and wild.
I'm stuck with AHC for the moment, but would also love to see how much the all in costs might be to run a 35"+ at 0mm when one can choose a suspension to complement.
Also would love to see some sheet metal modifications mild and wild.
I'm stuck with AHC for the moment, but would also love to see how much the all in costs might be to run a 35"+ at 0mm when one can choose a suspension to complement.
I love the forum discussions but in the last month I have received a half a dozen PM's on running zero offset because people just don't want to deal with all the haters jumping in. I don't care what offset people run or what they do or don't do with their rig, I try to provide real world experience with people and what mods are necessary to achieve the goal they are looking for for their rig and their use on or offroad. There are drawbacks to every mod we make to our rigs, tradeoffs etc... Feedback is great for pluses and minuses but when people can set their watch to knowing you will jump right on them the minute they post in this thread that's kinda weird man, just saying
And the same PMs on this side as to how to the heck I'm stuffing 35x12.5s, why am I rubbing, how do I solve clearance issues? First question is always - what is your offset and use case. As that'll drive the solution.
Honestly, this thread is well balanced. Whether someone is trying to stuff tires into the fender, or make poke work, the information is all there for either strategy. That there's different ways doesn't mean we disagree. And hopefully the dialogue will help the next guy make their own choice.
You're missing the point, this thread is called "Zero offset with 34's+", but instead of offering ideas and mods that one could do to run zero offset you jump in every time and say don't do it!
As @grinchy posted above this thread should be more full of useful mods, photos, bumpstops comparisons, fender cutting, tire sizes, spring rates, fresh ideas etc... My PM's are not coming in just because I'm running zero offset, they are coming in because they know it's easier to just message me on the side than deal with you posting in this thread(and others) the minute anyone asks about zero offset. I think conversation is great, but when people start to hesitate to ask for advice on how to achieve the goal they have because you will just jump right in I think that's going backwards from the goal of this thread. Just my 2 cents man, I don't care what offset people run, I have run everything from stock to zero and everything in-between, all have benefits and drawbacks. I ran 33x12.50's on 35mm offset on my 100 series, and guess what on hardcore trails it rubbed on the frame in the rear so bad it actually slowed my truck down, there is no perfect recipe for these rigs when running 35's. I like 35mm offset, I like 25, 20, zero etc... I have wheeled with 200's with 30mm total offset(wheel &spacer combined) and on hardcore trails in Moab it rubbed so bad at times it sounded as though the entire rear fender was going to be torn off @Markuson (top of Hells Gate). I'm just saying if guys want to run zero offset, 25mm offset or 60, let's try to help them figure out how to accomplish this(this thread is zero offset) and new ideas, parts etc.. to accomplish this instead of pretending like we have the only recipe that works! Warning people of drawbacks is one thing,jumping in every time someone asks a question is another , just my 2 cents man, take care...
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To Ken’s point - For those running low offsets and tall tires, how about listing what you did and what issues you still have (or don’t).
To eliminate running on 34s on +25 offset I had to do all the normal plastic trimming and reshaping, remove the mud flaps, and do the KDSS relo. Prior to KDSS relo I would be in the KDSS arm and passengers sway bar at full lock. I mounted the sway bar end links outside the LCA to reduce bushing wear. No body mount rubbing and no issues with fender scrubbing at full stuff. Almost 60k miles and no issues.
For those who have the same setup (or a more aggressive setup) please list your setup, including anything guy did with bump stops or other mods to make it work.
If anyone wants me to experiment with and write up other offsets and tire sizes, ship me some wheels and/or tires and I’ll report back
To eliminate running on 34s on +25 offset I had to do all the normal plastic trimming and reshaping, remove the mud flaps, and do the KDSS relo. Prior to KDSS relo I would be in the KDSS arm and passengers sway bar at full lock. I mounted the sway bar end links outside the LCA to reduce bushing wear. No body mount rubbing and no issues with fender scrubbing at full stuff. Almost 60k miles and no issues.
For those who have the same setup (or a more aggressive setup) please list your setup, including anything guy did with bump stops or other mods to make it work.
If anyone wants me to experiment with and write up other offsets and tire sizes, ship me some wheels and/or tires and I’ll report back
I love yours and Travis's KDSS relo mod and copied it to a T, worked perfectly, kept the angle correct to eliminate busing wear and was way easier to put back together! 34's on 25mm worked out well for me also, I did rub a little bit in the rear at full flex but nothing I couldn't live with at that timeTo Ken’s point - For those running low offsets and tall tires, how about listing what you did and what issues you still have (or don’t).
To eliminate running on 34s on +25 offset I had to do all the normal plastic trimming and reshaping, remove the mud flaps, and do the KDSS relo. Prior to KDSS relo I would be in the KDSS arm and passengers sway bar at full lock. I mounted the sway bar end links outside the LCA to reduce bushing wear. No body mount rubbing and no issues with fender scrubbing at full stuff. Almost 60k miles and no issues.
For those who have the same setup (or a more aggressive setup) please list your setup, including anything guy did with bump stops or other mods to make it work.
If anyone wants me to experiment with and write up other offsets and tire sizes, ship me some wheels and/or tires and I’ll report back
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Stock bump stops. But I am running +35 offset and a skinny 11.50" 35. Another 1/4" of width and I would have been removing the inner fender liners instead of rubbing them. Another 1/2-3/4" and I would have destroyed my rear quarter panels. Just a PSA for those running fat rubber or 0 offset, might want to think about limiting up travel before you go full send in the sand.
From what I can see, you could trim a little over an inch all around before you start getting real crazy with stuff like interfering with the rear door jamb and having to completely rework the inner fender liner. I'd probably be in the boat of having to limit up travel a smidge but I think if I could take off an inch all around I could squeeze a 37 in the rear. The front I am only really concerned about body mount clearance, not having KDSS in the way.
The Kut Snake flares appear to actually reduce clearance inside the wheel well as they bolt into the outside and wrap around into the wheel well also. There are a few Jeep Wrangle flares that are made to fit a trimmed fender but they are usually just flat steel with a tube on the end. I think that utilitarian look matches the Jeeps well but might look a bit out of place on the 200. If anyone else has done or seen a flare option that would allow for more room than stock I'd love to see it.
@Atwalz cut his fenders and has already or is going to roll them a bit, looked great IMO His rig is an absolute BEAST on the trail!!!!! Even if you cut the fenders to eliminate rubbing you will need to address the rear bumpstops to eliminate the rubbing on the inner rear fender. Or if ya got extra money laying around a cool mod might be to reshape the rear inner fender(up into the rear of the cabin) to allow for an extra inch or 2 of clearance? Trying to think what might be in the way of that if anything? As 200's get older I think we will see people start to do more adventures mods, I love it!!!
Markuson
SILVER Star
To Ken’s point - For those running low offsets and tall tires, how about listing what you did and what issues you still have (or don’t).
To eliminate running on 34s on +25 offset I had to do all the normal plastic trimming and reshaping, remove the mud flaps, and do the KDSS relo. Prior to KDSS relo I would be in the KDSS arm and passengers sway bar at full lock. I mounted the sway bar end links outside the LCA to reduce bushing wear. No body mount rubbing and no issues with fender scrubbing at full stuff. Almost 60k miles and no issues.
For those who have the same setup (or a more aggressive setup) please list your setup, including anything guy did with bump stops or other mods to make it work.
If anyone wants me to experiment with and write up other offsets and tire sizes, ship me some wheels and/or tires and I’ll report back
Yep. On Hell’s gate… my rubbing was on the in er top of the rear fender. It basically rubbed a spot through that black crud/coating in there at one spot to the smooth metal beneath. I did not add bump stops in back and it allowed the touch. No real harm, but on full, deep, slow stuff…it definitely touched there.
I was fine in front…but over time I was tweaking my end links badly.
Since then…other solutions have been found for the front end that definitely work, and effectively prevent end link issue. I did my 35’s back in 2017. Lots of little discoveries since that time. Totally doable.
My Falkens 295s on stock wheels + 1.25" spacers rubbed the same way in Moab on my supposedly less flexy LX. Was just sharing these with @radman last night
