metal tech fenders - battery? (1 Viewer)

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treerootCO

treerootCO

Where are my keys?!
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Jun 2, 2004
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Location
Wheat Ridge CO
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I have the driver's side all tacked up but I started on the passenger's side and the support post runs almost through the center of the stock battery location. Can someone post pics of how they mounted a battery with metal tech fenders? All the pics I found online were V8 conversions and most had the battery out when they took the pics.
 
Pics...

The battery tray is inboarded as far as I want it. Any more and I won't be able to change the filter or turn the distributor.
driver.jpg
pass.jpg
 
as close as I could find for you

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240519&highlight=tube+fenders

From the looks of it they make no provisions for stock battery location. Especially a dual battery tray. Most likely you will have to fab a new section from the bracket to the top of the fender taking out the bend. Ask the guys at metal tech they will probably be able to give you the best answer.
 
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have ya ever seen how the oem bj40 /42 battery mount mounts to the frame ,it might work well for ya here . not to sure if you could find one down there , it mounts a little closer to the headlight , might clear the fender mount
 
Mike,

Yes the stock battery tray in the stock position is in the way of the main support the fenders. You will need to move the battery either back or forward of the main support. I chose to put it on top of the stock shock tower between the main fender support and the right head light. It’s a tight fit and close to the hood, however the trade off for this when running an F/2F is the added room around your distributor and general access to the side of the block. For the V8 people, this is never an issue since the battery has already been moved for the conversion.

Mark
 
Ok, thank you. I was hoping I missed something.

How about this? I can add a brace between the tubes. As far as tire clearance, this is full lock on level ground.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
 
I just got done building a battery tray and I wish I had pictures of it now. I build a tray that ran parallel with the fire wall that sits the batter a few inches away from it on the passenger side where the blower motor used to sit. If your still running that, then you can come up with your own idea :D . The battery tray has a mount on the side that bolts to the verticle support on the fire wall and then there is a tab that bolts to the top of the inner fender, and then one additional mount that is a tube that goes from the driver side front of the tray down to the inner fender as an extra support just in case. The first 2 mounts hold it very secure though supprisingly enough. If you don't have the blower motor still, let me know and I will try to get some pictures, it would be easy to make work with the metaltech fenders...I was planning ahead when I built it ;)
 
I would do some additional fabbing to your dual battery tray, make it so the batteries are seperated and have the main support go through the tray. Another Travis in the Cascade Cruisers used the main support of the tube fender as part of his battery tray but that is not recommended.

I shoved mine under the passenger seat since I don't have a gas tank there anymore. There is some room up front between the shock tower and engine block I believe to put one battery.

I don't think using a longer piece of tube would be wise, that would create more force on the plate potentially ripping it off the frame. You would rather have the tube fender give in than damaging the frame itself.
 
shot from the roof...

I left the mount the way it was. Sliders mount about the same way and the additional leverage isn't a problem supporting the entire weight of the vehicle. I am afraid I might hit the tire though but I figure it won't be too hard to cut the lower portion of the mount off and change it later on. The only way I can get the dual battery tray in there, and not change the fender mount, is to raise it really high. I wanted to keep the terminals away from the hood. The battery tray is too long to shift forward or backwards.

I changed the design a little and sloped the front corners slightly back. The inner pieces that go from the bib to the support are off, I couldn't get the fender line level and keep the bend at a 90 to the hood so the skins will angle back as well. They are even left to right so it will be fine.
roof.jpg
 
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GreenWeeny78 said:
I don't think using a longer piece of tube would be wise, that would create more force on the plate potentially ripping it off the frame. You would rather have the tube fender give in than damaging the frame itself.
Click to expand...


More force from what?


If there is a force applied to the tube fender structure strong enough to damage the frame where that fender mount is, the resulting damage to the frame will likely be of insignificance compared to the rest of the vehicle or it’s occupants.




Looks good Mike...Run it!

Post up a pic of the hood closed too!


:beer:
 
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HIJACK!

How's that low mounted ignition coil working out for you? Doesn't look ideal, but I'm guessing it works huh.

What is on top of your valve cover? Oven? Hot water?

Those bolts on your shock towers get loose very often?
Sorry for the hijack, Couldn't help it, had to know.
 
FJ40fiji said:
HIJACK!

How's that low mounted ignition coil working out for you? Doesn't look ideal, but I'm guessing it works huh.
Click to expand...




Probably is just hanging there, as it was likely attached to the old fender... ;)
Pretty sure it will be mounted again....


FJ40fiji said:
Those bolts on your shock towers get loose very often?
Sorry for the hijack, Couldn't help it, had to know.
Click to expand...


Metal locking nuts go a long way at preventing this from happening...
 
I'll post some more pics tomorrow, it got dark outside. The shock tower bolts have never been loose. I don't think I have ever tightened them either. The ignition coil is just hanging there. The basket on top of the engine is the carb-b-q;)
 
Poser said:
More force from what?


If there is a force applied to the tube fender structure strong enough to damage the frame where that fender mount is, the resulting damage to the frame will likely be of insignificance compared to the rest of the vehicle or it’s occupants.




Looks good Mike...Run it!

Post up a pic of the hood closed too!


:beer:
Click to expand...

Well i'm thinking about the wheeling here in OR and WA. Lots of narrow trails with trees. Often you can barely squeeze by them or have to lay your body into it to get around.

I also forgot about the additional mounting used on the cowl and bezel.
 
look real good mike......
gonna have to see it up close :D

the car-b-q is pretty cool.....tried it out on our holy cross trip last year :D
 
Looks great mike, but I suggest taking it over to the compost pile and flex it out to make sure you don't rub the support post too hard before you finish weld it. I'll have to swing by and check it out:)

Oh and the car-b-q makes a mean pulled pork sandwich :D
 
hmmmmmmmmm.............................next mod..................................




CAR-B-Q :D
 
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