Cockeyed 40 series- general tech advice wanted

[Pighead]

can the jets be causing the problem or something else?

Sure, the jets could be causing the rough running. Could just as easily be something else. Half of all carb problems are really electrical problems. A 60 might have the High Altitude Compensation gizmo but the 40 doesn't, so the 40 may need more base advance. Sometimes (just sometimes) there are extra carb jets hidden in the float bowl plugs. One of those jets might be a high altitude jet, take a look.

 

[mtn biker]

The rig looks desmogged (or has never been smogged, is this possible?)

What is an accurate idle speed?
How does one tell if its vacuum retard or advance? can the year of the vehicle tell that?

Set timing with the diaphragm plugged off correct?

On the f motor there was never really any smog controls so that looks to be good. Ideally you would want about 650-675 RPM at idle I wouldn't be too worried about elevation.

here's a video of the beast in case anything sticks out. Excuse my swearing part way through...LOL

A few notes for the videos:
The metal fan creaks, is this normal?
The other shop had some type of throttle spring attached to a hose clamp... WTF? solution?
I believe some of the electrical routing is off per schematics online. Seems to be stuff for the cabin. Shown on the passenger side engine bay.
We have the leaf springs out, making customer spacer.


Dan

That is absolutely period correct for the F motor is to have a direct drive fan from the crank with no clutch. the throttle spring hooked to a hose clamp is just a field repair that was never supposed to be permanent. Probably had to replace the return spring and found something close that would work.

 

[Beehanger]

The project got delayed due to issues with the shackles being broken. Stand by on the 40 project update.

In the meantime, I realized on my personal project that I don't know what the stock engine noise should sound like. Video 2 on this thread is of it at cold and sounds rather iffy at least to me. As a near rookie, I have no frame of reference beyond other videos, but I don't have that trained ear yet.

If you wouldn't mind weighing in on this thread I made about my 1985 fj60 that would be great, the 40 forum seems to be more active......Once again, this does not relate o the the vehicle mentioned here above.

i've convinced myself I have weird noises in the engine, used a stethoscope and all of it. I have nothing to go off other than other youtube videos on idling noises. Would love your take. videos are posted here:

2F Engine Noise and crank pulley wobble

Hi Gents, I'm 26 and just (hopefully) completed my first build+baseline and mechanical journey in general on my 1985 60 series but im hearing some odd engine noises, and a potential crankshaft wobble. I've done everything besides the machining + initial assembling the head and block. I Had my...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Beehanger]

Hey guys. Did another mini inspection today. Here’s some Potentially worrisome things I noticed:
Carb fuel leak. The carb seems to be leaking out of the bowl. Via one of the “plugs?”

Carb leak at accelerator pump.

These leaks appear to be gradual, but the engine bay smells bad so try fuel fumes. Read more below.


Valve cover leak:
Appears to be leaking around valve cover venting tube.

Dizzy wire frayed:
See photo.

My biggest question is Can the customer drive a vehicle with a gradual fuel leak like this? Likely going to recommend she gets the carburetor rebuilt, the rig is running much better than I remember although it has a little stumble to it still.
We’ve completed work on suspension. It’s less cockeyed after installing new shackles and switching leaf springs.

Air filter put on cockeyed?

Want to give the vehicle my all clear to drive but we can’t until I understand the danger level of the fuel leak. We’re not carb wizards over here. All I can see is the smear, and it seems to be gradual as I couldn’t see a drip from it with the rig running.
Customer coming tomorrow morning

 

[RevISK]

Pardon me if I’m seeming obtuse here, this is an honest question:
I may have missed it, but what kind of operation are you with that you are working on this vehicle and asking this forum some pretty basic questions?

Without looking at this truck personally, and I’m no expert by any means, a couple of gaskets and refitting the air cleaner (probably help with vacuum) are what I’m seeing.

Now here’s my real jerk of a question: what qualifies you to have customers?

 

[Beehanger]

Pardon me if I’m seeming obtuse here, this is an honest question:
I may have missed it, but what kind of operation are you with that you are working on this vehicle and asking this forum some pretty basic questions?

Without looking at this truck personally, and I’m no expert by any means, a couple of gaskets and refitting the air cleaner (probably help with vacuum) are what I’m seeing.

Now here’s my real jerk of a question: what qualifies you to have customers?

I was trying to provide context for other people to weigh in as we are going to recommend the customer get the carburetor rebuild work done before driving the vehicle or not. This thread is partly a thought experiment for myself and double check of the other mechanics inspection. I’ve learned a lot so far and the shop appreciated my interest. She came in for suspension work and an inspection.

The fuel leak I just found is why I posted. We have no bearing on how dangerous these trickle fuel leaks are and we aren’t carburetor wizards. As for the other points I’m updating the thread like it is my own build thread. the customer came in for general suspension work and inspection hence why I’m inquiring about a carb leak when we don’t know carburetors. I’m once again not the lead mechanic on the project and have simply been double checking and asking for input, which is a lot more than what a lot of shops do these days.

TDLR I’m Mainly asking about the carburetor fuel leak safety concerns. Ignore all other points as it’s clearly adding confusion. Yes these things are fixable but we’re overloaded with work on the vehicles we know. The Forums is helpful but apparently difficult in conveying these nuances, but since you asked there you go.

—Going to just go forward with my recommendation that the customer go get the carburetor rebuilt and leaks fixed. Clearly ruffling some feathers with my last post due to poor wording/lack of context/overthinking and it was not the intent.

Thanks for the earlier advice all,

Dan

 

[Beehanger]

Is there supposed to be a blue thing lodged in the vacuum line from distributor to carburator? Looks likes a bead or something is in there, hard to say. No vacuum is sucking out the dizzy side of the vacuum line.

Could this be a pressure regulator on such a tiny vac line?


Thanks,
DAan

 

[Pighead]

Is there supposed to be a blue thing lodged in the vacuum line from distributor to carburator? Looks likes a bead or something is in there, hard to say. No vacuum is sucking out the dizzy side of the vacuum line.

Could this be a pressure regulator on such a tiny vac line?


Thanks,
DAan

You don't really want vacuum to go to a vac retard dizzy, maybe someone blocked the hose.
You have a later model carb on an early manifold, the carbs are different, the manifds are different,
the air cleaner is not going line up. There should be a washer between the float bowl and the plugs, often copper. Leaking out the accelerator pump is not uncommon, new rubber boot and copper washers usually come in the rebuild kit. These slow leaks hardly ever catch on fire...