Cockeyed 40 series- general tech advice wanted

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Beehanger

winter projects are hell
SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 4, 2020
Threads
124
Messages
1,062
Location
Idaho
Hi guys,
I’m a 60s owner looking at a customers 40 series at my work, and have offered to give my two cents about it since I know these rigs best. (I work in the office at a small JDM van import shop and we usually work on vans) the guys in the shop are in a little over their heads as they don’t know this vehicle well. I’d love to figure out with the help of ih8mud what the issues I list below are over the next couple days and recommend outsourcing the resolution to a cruiser ship etc. ih8mud is my primary arrow in the quiver as of now so here goes nothing:

context: the rig has been driven around town and is spotless from rust, but is running rough and has some suspension issues. I’ll be able to go more in depth with photos and videos tomorrow after my actual inspection, but getting the thread started now as the guys want this rig completed by Thursday and we want to know whether or not it has bigger problems etc.
My experience is limited to my vehicle even though I did a whole engine rebuild and baseline with the knowledge of ih8mud. I’ve got a few questions that have come up upon inspection before I go into either fixing them or referring the customer to a cruiser shop depending on the issue. The actual techs have done their inspection but I’m the second set of eyes even though I have less overall mechanical experience. I suspect a few things are wrong with the rig which I’ll outline.[ If you’ve seen my threads youll see I’m 26 and have spent the last 3 years getting my 60 back on the road so I’m probably now :banana::banana::banana::banana: ]. would love some cheat sheet notes to go off of regarding the following:

—what I should look for for vacuum readings? Should the 1F vacuum be the same as the 2F? This is an early 70s 40 series. I was told 15-18 bb for my engine at 5800 ft in elevation where I live.

— Is the fan clutch meant to be stiffer than a 2f and very hard to spin? The one on my 60 spins about 400 times easier. The 40s one creaks and has a ton of friction between it and the belt portion of the clutch (Can send videos tomorrow)

— The techs are swapping the left and right front leaf springs as the rig was sitting cockeyed. I’m not aware of the leaf spring coming in intentionally varying heights and would love input on this ti not waste the shops time and the customers money. I have a feeling they’re off on this cause my 60 didnt appear to have Intentioanlly offset springs.what else could be causing this?

—Is operating temp of about 220 the same on tje 1f and the 2F? (2/3 up the way on the gauge?)

—The rig runs a bit rough and the owner wants us to give our two cents, but the rig is mainly in for suspension work and a power steering upgrade. I’m gunna hook a gauge up tomorrow, check the timing, etc and do a lean drop tune to see if that helps. Is the principle of (advance it to the point where it doesn’t ping uphill apply just like the 60?) — the rig is desmogged—

—What should the top speed approximately be? It’s still carbed with stock tranny etc. We’re at about 5800 feet here in Idaho.

I’m gunna take it for a longer test drive tomorrow, the customer has been driving it around town but I wanna see if it’s hitting around the typical top speed and not overheating first. Hence why I’m asking the metrics above.

Appreciate any input on this to save me some time for our company and the customer (we’re in small town in Idaho and are one of the only shops)

And, I’m also very aware that these questions are researchable elsewhere and asking em on a forum isn’t doing it by the book, but I’ve had great luck with this communities willingness to help and the forums being more helpful in some instances and we’re on a deadline. The other techs have also given it their once over already.

I’m open to think we should outsource certain things depending on what the problem is. The point is I’m the second set of eyes to catch something like a vacuum leak, pinging, running rich etc. which I think I can do with the above metrics.

ALSO, any threads you guys know about that may be helpful about the 1F fj40s and the questions I’ve asked would be awesome.

Happy to send more photos videos tomorrow as well. The rig ideally leaves this Thursday.

TLDR even the smallest of input appreciated. Like I said we are the first and last line of defense in this town when it comes to older rig. Would love to at least figure out the suspension cock eyed issue and determine if the rig is having serious tuning/running problems. I can probably do this if the above questions are answered. As far as fixing them, I would love to know by our deadline of Thursday so we can recommmend to a salt lake crusier shop if need be. Trying to help out a fellow cruiser and I’m sure some of you guys might be willing to answer some stuff in a short period time.

Thanks in advance
Dan

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I think your vac #'s good. My 72 has no fan clutch. I think my thermostat is like 180. In winter I run a curtain on the lower half of the radiator to help it warm up. Mine will run at 65 but its way happier at 55 on the flat. Yea it will go faster down Whitebird grade but the steering gets spooky.

Scrape the contacts point in the dizzy cap especially if they are aluminum. See how loose side/side the shaft is inside the dizzy.

I have a kink in the front passenger leaf. I need to do something with the OEM spring.
 
Man! I hate deadlines. Search here or on the internet, cruiser lean or fj40 lean. I swapped rear springs from side to side once. Good luck.
 
Vacuum numbers look OK for your elevation. Sometimes these engines like a bit more timing advance than the manual calls for. Some recommend closer to 17* BTDC instead of the stock 7*. Make sure it has a vacuum advance dizzy as opposed to a vacuum retard. If it's a vacuum retard just disconnect the vacuum line to the dizzy. Yes, the old way of setting the timing by vacuum (advance to best vacuum then retard just a degree or two or until it stops pinging) still works.
220* F is a bit warm for an F, Mine runs 190* or so around town. I start to worry at anything over 210*. I do not have a fan clutch, I assume he has the big plastic fan?
 
for the running rough I would take a look at the plugs and wires, and was previously stated check your points and the point gap. One recommendation I would have is a full tune up, plugs wires cap and rotors.

The 1F motor does NOT have a fan clutch it is a straight up direct drive fan. If the engine is turning and the belt is tight the fan will be doing the same RPM as the motor basically.

That F should only have vacuum in the intake and advance for the distributor and maybe the transfer case. Mine is a vacuum transfer case.

I have never heard of swapping spring sides. Honestly I don't know if that will work. I kinda think that it will look the same. But I have always been of the school of thought that if you replace one side of the suspension you replace both. That way they both have the same wear and usable life. Having said that I am interested in how that turns out.
 
Adjust valves back to spec, then do timing. That should baseline your vac readings and really expose whether or not there is a leak.

Is the clutch adjusted to spec? Both pedal and slave?

Put a lean correction block on the high side of the lean. CCOT sells them. Some people pull springs (the smallest on the high side).
 
Put a lean correction block on the high side of the lean. CCOT sells them. Some people pull springs (the smallest on the high side).

My issue with this solution is instead of raising the low side your lowering the high side. Not my idea of a fix on a 4X4 by decreasing frame ground clearance and reducing the departure angle.
 
My issue with this solution is instead of raising the low side your lowering the high side. Not my idea of a fix on a 4X4 by decreasing frame ground clearance and reducing the departure angle.
I agree whole heartedly. I think Toyotas' solution was sort of CYA.
 
I agree whole heartedly. I think Toyotas' solution was sort of CYA.

My issue with this solution is instead of raising the low side your lowering the high side. Not my idea of a fix on a 4X4 by decreasing frame ground clearance and reducing the departure angle.


We’re talking about 3/8” when adding the block, but ok. I’d do that before I remove springs I think.

My old, busted a** springs kept my rig perfectly level now with my new springs I’ve got a significant lean. There is no difference between the two springs so I am not going down the rabbit hole of swapping sides. As stated above, I’ll add a block.
 
We’re talking about 3/8” when adding the block, but ok. I’d do that before I remove springs I think.

My old, busted a** springs kept my rig perfectly level now with my new springs I’ve got a significant lean. There is no difference between the two springs so I am not going down the rabbit hole of swapping sides. As stated above, I’ll add a block.

As I said earlier, I tried swapping springs once. I'll never do that again.
 
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here's a video of the beast in case anything sticks out. Excuse my swearing part way through...LOL

A few notes for the videos:
The metal fan creaks, is this normal?
The other shop had some type of throttle spring attached to a hose clamp... WTF? solution?
I believe some of the electrical routing is off per schematics online. Seems to be stuff for the cabin. Shown on the passenger side engine bay.
We have the leaf springs out, making customer spacer.


Dan
 
The rig looks desmogged (or has never been smogged, is this possible?)

What is an accurate idle speed?
How does one tell if its vacuum retard or advance? can the year of the vehicle tell that?

Set timing with the diaphragm plugged off correct?
 
I don't see a fan clutch, looks to be direct drive. Looks like just a late model vacuum secondary carb added to an old F engine.
 
A vacuum advance dizzy would have the diaphragm mounted to the right-hand side of the dizzy (pretty much where it would bump into the oil filter on a 2F) so that the inner plate would rotate counterclockwise with vacuum applied. Often has a little dial attached that you can use to fine tune the timing. Vac retard would have the diaphragm mirror image.
good idle speed might be 650-750, where it sounds happiest.

edit; I can see in the video it's a vac retard.
that might have never been smogged, depending on what year it is titled as
 
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as for top speed, one wonders if his secondary is opening. I H8 vacuum secondaries. You're familiar with the paper clip test?
 
for the deadline tomorrow, I might plug the vac line from carb to dizzy, advance timing as it tolerates, adjust valves to FSM specs, lean out the air mix screw and see how it drives.
Things I might consider for the future; swap the retard dizzy for a '69 and earlier Toyota vac advance dizzy with a Pertronix. That's a 2F carb on an F engine. What's it jetted for? Perhaps swap carbs back to an earlier mechanical secondary carb with high elevation jets or have a guru rebuild and rejet the present carb.
How many blades on that metal radiator fan? Maybe a plastic fan would be better. A fan shroud would probably help.
 
for the deadline tomorrow, I might plug the vac line from carb to dizzy, advance timing as it tolerates, adjust valves to FSM specs, lean out the air mix screw and see how it drives.
Things I might consider for the future; swap the retard dizzy for a '69 and earlier Toyota vac advance dizzy with a Pertronix. That's a 2F carb on an F engine. What's it jetted for? Perhaps swap carbs back to an earlier mechanical secondary carb with high elevation jets or have a guru rebuild and rejet the present carb.
How many blades on that metal radiator fan? Maybe a plastic fan would be better. A fan shroud would probably help.
The high elevation jet thing is super interesting. On my 60 I’m still having tuning problems where it seems I can’t do the proper lean drop method. I can only raise RPM with the idle mix screw, not lower it as seen in @OTRAMM ‘s lean drop video. It’s the same question for both perhaps, can the jets be causing the problem or something else?
 
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