Builds Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40) (1 Viewer)

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PS lines

Posting these pics in the hopes that someone can help me source replacements for my

- Powersteering high-pressure line
- Powersteering cooling line (flexible pipe like material)

The picture below i labeled the high-pressure & return lines backwards.

I can't use a 79+ cooling line beause my frame does not have the threaded holes for attaching it. So I'm going to just reproduce what CCOT did when they installed the system originall (per the picture).

I've poked around locally and local hydraulic shops have been unhelpful...they don't deal with metric sizes!

Thanks!

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RIDDLER said:
Teq- Greetings from Spokane, WA.

This is a great thread and a great landcruiser. This is my favorite color by far. Only Toyota picks mustard as a color that turns out to be popular. I have a white FJ40 and I much prefer mustard and brown to white. Seems so retro.

I am curious about your thoughts of your AC system? Are you pleased with it? I think it looks great, but I was wondering if you think it works well? It has been hot in the PAC NW this last month.

I have a 1979 and I am trying to decide on AC or not. I think yours is the vintage air system.

thanks

Aaron Riddle
Click to expand...

My AC system was (apparently) installed in this rig by CCOT in '94 when they performed their half-ass restoration on it (I am thusfar totally UNimpressed with CCOT's workmanship).

In anycase, I bought this rig in the spring and drove it for only about 4 weeks before it went up on jack stands...and has not come off since. I ran the AC a few times and it blew nice cold air. That's about as much as I know. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
 
TEQ said:
I can't use a 79+ cooling line beause my frame does not have the threaded holes for attaching it.
Click to expand...

Im not "sure" but look on the cross member.

I like the cooler line up the side like that. out of the way.

The line is fuel line from any good parts store. Tube spec built mine and it looks just like fuel line to me.

I am having 3 return lines made and think I have the HP line nailed down.

16mm or 18mm ?
 
I'm not entirely sure that it's fuel line. I ordered a return line from SOR the other day (Toyota part) and it felt much harder than fuel line typically does. It's probably something that's rated for higher pressure and temperature than fuel.
 
GetsUThere said:
I'm not entirely sure that it's fuel line. I ordered a return line from SOR the other day (Toyota part) and it felt much harder than fuel line typically does. It's probably something that's rated for higher pressure and temperature than fuel.
Click to expand...

From Toyota NO. The one Tube Spec built me is std tube from any parts store., Needs to be softer for them to bend t by hand.
 
TEQ said:
Also: The FSM says the use "molybdenm disulphide lithium base grease" when re-assembling the axle shaft bearings & races.

I have some "MAG1 Hi-temp disc brake wheel bearing grease" that says it is "...state-of-the-art lithium complex grease."

Do I have the right stuff, or do I need to go hunt for something more specific?
Click to expand...

Bump.
 
I believe you'll want CV joint grease. I remember Bobby Long talking about this on Pirate a little while ago. And here it is:

Longfield said:
What do you guys think of packing your Longfields with grease for you?
We get calls all the time asking what type of grease to use.
You will not believe this BUT we had some birfs come back they didn't use grease at all. So we are going to start packing them with a Mobil Synthetic CV grease. There will be no charge to you. :)
Click to expand...
 
  1. Correctly attached my battery cables & ground strap. Ground strap goes from a bolt on the starter to the frame. Hot lead (red) goes from starter to battery, and black lead goes to frame just in front of the strut brace.
  2. Used Plasti-Dip to coat the arm that sticks off of the battery tray bracket to hold the fuel line. Worked great; looks like it came from the factory.
  3. Installed my shiny powder coated battery tray bracket, new battery tray (I made some rubber insulators out of gasket material in leiu of the OEM pads that were originally between the tray and bracket). I also installed my newly powder coated pan that goes under the radiator and belts.
  4. More cleaning and prep on my hubs (the thang the disc is attached to, not the lockable part). First I removed my discs from the hubs so I can get them turned. Then I removed the inner bearings and races and cleaned a lot of the rust and grime. I did not remove the outer races yet because I discovered I didn't buy outer bearings and wasn't sure if new bearings come with races (they do). Hubs are ready to have new races & bearings installed.
  5. Preped my knuckle housings. The powder coater didn't mask them quite right so I had to wire wheel off some tough powder coat in some spots and add some POR15 in other spots. Replaced a few studs.
  6. Got my axles (inner shafts and birfs) together. Made a mistake on the first one: didn't have the inner clip in it's groove (see pic) and once I had the outer clip through the spindle and snapped I was hosed. By hanging the axle from my vice I was able to finagle the clip into place. Did it right on the other one.

Didn't take pics of most of it... sorry.

I'll pick some inner bearings up at the Toy dealer tomorrow and I should have these puppies back together quick:

My wife is buying me a workbench and cabinets (anyone seen www.baldheadcabinets.com's stuff in person?) for my garage for my 40th (Sept 10 if you want to get me something too) and I want to paint the floor in the garage before I install them... I gotta get wheels on this thing so I can get it out of the garage!​

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Updated Todo List

Updated list of things todo in the rough order I will attack (changes since the last time I posted the Todo List in blue):

  1. Tear down front hubs/knuckles (done)
  2. Remove front 3rd member (done)
  3. Finish removing oil pan gasket (done!!!!)
  4. Remove old gasket material from diff covers (done)
  5. Remove front steering components (tie rod, relay rod, etc...) (done)
  6. Remove LF Fender (to access PS box) (done)
  7. Remove old coolant hoses (done. Thanks Bull).
  8. Clean, de-rust, and paint: 3rd members, steering components, knuckles... (Done (powder coated))
  9. Replace PS box (leaking badly). Box removed then put back on because I actually don't think it's the PS box that's leaking.
  10. Replace PS hoses (old ones off, sourcing new ones (Shane!)
  11. Removed PS pump, sourcing replacement. Shane to refinish cup & top.
  12. Rebuild hubs and knuckles. Almost done!
  13. Drop tcase, fix Tranny/Tcase seal, rebuild as needed
  14. Rebuild parking brake
  15. install new clutch fork boot
  16. Install 3.73 3rds with new gaskets & nuts. Had new bearings installed and the cases painted. Rear installed!
  17. Install 2.5" Lift Kit. OME Springs, Shocks, Shackles, etc…
  18. Replace Tie rod and drag link ends. (I have all the parts and everything's been powder coated.)
  19. Rebuild center arm (Done!)
  20. Replace stabilizer (got a new one from Bull)
  21. Replace Tie Rod and Relay Rod (both bent). (Done!)
  22. Fix speedo cable/seal
  23. New fill/drain plugs
  24. Install new oil pan. (Done!)
  25. Fix battery, frame, body ground wires. (Done!)
  26. Install new battery tray (requires drilling out a broken stud) (Done!)
  27. Install new hoses. (Done!)
  28. Install new Fan & AC Belts
  29. Install my Tuffy box. (Done!)
  30. Fix rear heater fan. (Done!)
  31. Clean frame rails (full of mud)
  32. Put my new OEM steel (freshly poweder coated!) wheels on
  33. Drive away

Stuff I've decided to defer simply because I have way too much to do and they were just "nice to haves while I'm in there":
  • Replace rear drum pads
  • Replace front disc pads
  • Drop Tranny/Tcase
  • Replace clutch
  • Replace rear main seal
  • Reinstall Tranny/Tcase
 
My longest pole right now is my PS pump. I can't find a replacement because I can't figure out what model & year the one I have came from. The bracket is custom, apparently fabricated by CCOT when they restored this rig in '94.

I will buy a Sliver Star for the first person to correctly identify the model and year of this PS pump.

To win I have to be able to source a replacement based on the information you give me.

Pictures of the pump and bracket below.

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A sliver star! Cool!

No help here. But knowing CCOT it would be the cheapest Toyota pump they could buy from the dealer and would be highly available. They would then build the bracket around it......
 
Looks like one from a 60 but the return line on my 60 pump is facing down.
 
Question: My new tie rod ends came with the grease fittings loose/not screwed in. Am I supposed to put grease inside the ends before putting the fittings on, or should I just tighten them on now and make sure I grease the fittings when I've got the whole thing assembled?

Probably a stupid question, but I just want to make sure.

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Install fitting and then clean well! then paint black. If not they will RUST!!!!!!!! Then fill with grease, do not over fill.
 
Good stuff done tonight.

  • I didn't get a chance to pick up new outer bearings from the dealer today, but now that I know they'll come with races I went ahead and banged the old races out and put in the new inner races, bearings, and seals.
  • Using a brass drift to install the seal didn't seem to work very well. Instead I found that a 2x4 applied pressure evenly and got the job done nicely.
  • Organized and assembled my tie rod, relay rod, an drag links and ends. I need to get new C clamp nuts & bolts; the old ones are crap (several are not OEM and not even metric sized).
  • Looks like I need to figure out how to bolt the new stabilizer in place. The OEM/old one had tie-rod like ends on it and this one just has poly through holes. What should I use?

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Are those painted? I can't see that good;)

The rusted set in the pic have never seen outside, they have been mounted for two years in the garage. The one in my hand is OE and they come painted. my .02
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