Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

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There's a GW going to the horn relay on the passenger fender. It also goes to the horn

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

Ding Ding! A winner! I found the G/W wire to a horn on a diagram. It makes sense because the PO had some cheesy Cal Custom plastic horns mounted on the bib with the openings pointed up to catch all the water they could. They had their own wires to the stock relay. Sounded like something between an Aoogha horn and a security door buzzer. I threw all that out and installed a dual tone set from an early 80's Caddy with a generic after market relay.

G/W wire now removed from the the front part of the harness and capped off. :hillbilly:
 
More old OEM wiring Q&A

What did this box used to do? Not the igniter is it?
emissions.webp
 
And, found this curious little light wrapped in tape and tucked up out of the way.

:idea: should it light up if I have a good idea?:rolleyes:
light.webp
 
That curious looking light plugs directly into the back of the light switch. I just reinstalled mine today.
 
More old OEM wiring Q&A

What did this box used to do? Not the igniter is it?

With your setup, it's a useless relic, remove or abandon in place.
 
That curious looking light plugs directly into the back of the light switch. I just reinstalled mine today.

Really.
I had no idea. So what gets lit with this light in place? The knob letters seem to be painted on.
 
With your setup, it's a useless relic, remove or abandon in place.

That much I know. It's been doing nothing for a very long time. I'm just curious as to what it hasn't been doing
 
That much I know. It's been doing nothing for a very long time. I'm just curious as to what it hasn't been doing

IIRC, counted miles and/or time, turned on the EGR light when it thought it should be serviced, useless stuff like that?
 
my guess is the speed sensor, or it could be the emissions "computer"

The letters on the light knob are backlit. The knob is hollow.
 
why do we need to guess when we can read the label :confused:

well, at least I can :flipoff2: granted, with reading glasses :doh:
 
A long nagging little issue with an acceptable solution:

The grommet for the fuel lines to pass through the tub from the tank is apparently made of nonobtanium. I noticed that the grommet for the heater lines in the firewall was similar, but larger, yet available.
:idea:

So I bought a firewall grommet from Cruiser Corps and performed the surgery depicted in the following pics. Coulda done some more square chops though.
fuel grommet 1.webp
fuel grommet 2.webp
fuel grommet 3.webp
 
Modified grommet installed with my home brew fuel pipes. Took a little shoving with a screwdriver on the edges, but it squeezed in place.

Not perfect, but better that the old crispy one it replaced.
:hillbilly::hillbilly::hillbilly:
fuel grommet 4.webp
 
The light pictured is way to big for the light switch. That light is a fraction the size of the one pictured.

:confused: So maybe it's a PO mod? I might take the switch out to see it's altered or has it's own light.

Meanwhile, I started down a futile road trying to build up some sort of power distribution for the engine compartment.

Came to my senses and realized the auto industry has been doing this pretty well for awhile. So I spent a couple hours browsing the local PnP. Dug up a nice compact distribution box from an 89 Cougar. Way more circuits than needed, but better than not enough.
fuse4.webp
fuse5.webp
 
Built a mount plate for the fuse box and mounted on some standoffs in an vacant firewall area.

Wired and rewired all the circuits with weather pack connections. Ended up leaving a few unterminated waiting for the future need because the whole bundle of connectors was pretty bulky.

Final install on the OE bracket waiting for wires. :hillbilly:
fuse6.webp
fuse7.webp
fuse8.webp
 
So the mystery light is solved. I found a place to put it in the light switch, and with a new bulb the knob lights up now. Although very dimly. An upgrade I never knew I had:D No telling why the PO wrapped it in tape.

attachment.php
 
I've finally managed to slay 99% of the wiring serpents of Medusa and Hydra heads and it's time to get started on converting the stock gauge cluster to after market gauges with the kit I found here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ven-mechanical-gauges-into-stock-cluster.html

I opted to get just the bracket kit while it was available because I hadn't made up my mind to go mechanical or electrical yet. I really liked the stockish look of the mechanical gauges, but went electrical for the easier install.

1st pic, separated the front from the back of the stock cluster.

2nd, brackets bent per instructions. Not as hard as I thought it might be.

3rd, Carefully destroying everything but the guts of the new gauges. :hillbilly:
gauge1.webp
gauge2.webp
gauge3.webp
 
Next, and as far as I got this round: New bracket with new and old gauges mounted.
gauge4.webp
 
can I get your old gauges ?
 

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