Awesome!
You give me hope for my roof!
You give me hope for my roof!
Builds Colonel Mustard Revival (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter trevor philipps
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Just for kicks… here is how bad the driver side rear body mount looks.
Should be semi easy to re create this. I’m really getting sick of drilling out spot welds
Should be semi easy to re create this. I’m really getting sick of drilling out spot welds
Colonel Mustard redemption!
Trevor are you being sarcastic? If not I think I can fix anything on my project, it's not even close to that kind of destruction. I look forward to the restoration you do on that section.
garfieldthecat
SILVER Star
Kit plane welders start with nothing but a frame number sometimes and old Ford's are often restored with just a cowl to start with. I think with patience, research, and confidence, there is certainly a way to make Colonel Mustard cancer free.
- Thread starter
- #46
Sarcasm… me…. Never….
We will see how it works. Compared to the wheel arch, rocker, quarter panel rust 3-d puzzle with no actual parts. I actually don’t think it will be that bad to fix, but we will see. I’ll document as I go.
To be clear, this project is a terrible idea. Save your time and money on a better 60, (if you can) this one is super sentimental to me and I’m going to make every effort to restore it in a semi reasonable manner, and document it along the way.
I figure there are fewer and fewer “good” examples left and others may need to start where I am to get the rig they want, so here is the a way to do it I guess, and I hope to show it’s possible.
Cheers
Chris
- Thread starter
- #47
Rear cross member - tail gate holder onner??
Alright, another tale in the restoration of the most rusty 60 ever, we left off with the rear cross member where the driver side body mount was completely gone, while the drinker side looked pretty good. After much spot weld drilling and cutting, I was able to remove the entire assembly. In general the entire support structure was gone on both sides as can seen in the next two photos. Just rebuilding the cross member isn't going to be enough, how it's attached to the rear end will also need to be re engineered. Since no replacement parts are available, I used the parts website to at least try and replicate some of what I was working with. Before I removed anything I drilled a few locating holes for future use, these were super important when it came time to put it all back together.
Here is what is left, after all the parts were separated, the body mount on the driver's side is gone, as well as a lot of metal. Using the existing body mount I made an opposite side pattern and made a new one. Next I welded on a new “lip” on the bottom side. Then made the back side out of 18 gauge as I don't have a setup to make all the indents for strength. I only have a small break so I made 3 panels and welded it all together. There were a bunch of other chunks that had to be cut out and re-welded in. lots of seam sealer too to keep the water out.
I bet rebuilding the rear cross member took 15 hours at least… and now its ready to put it back in. I had 2 spot weld holes that I used on the back side to line everything up. I should have taken more photos, but each side needed 4 different sheet metal parts separately cut, folded and welded in to support the cross member at a close to OEM configuration. As can be seen in the photo there are a lot of ugly spot, plug, butt, and just tack welds holding it all together. After all the welding and grinding, I used some decent 3M seam sealer to seal it all up and protect it in the long run. I had an open tube from a different project so I decided to use it here.
Still lots to go, next up will be the passenger side rocker panels, similar to the driver side. Ill probably leave that off as I already described it here. When I start welding body panels back on, ill give another in depth update. Probably another 6ish weeks before house projects will take priority again, we will see, we have so much snow…
If there are any questions or thoughts, let me know, soon this will start to go back together, I can certainly tell my sheet metal skills are much better than when i started. This project is still silly, but its better than other things i could be doing I guess.
Chris
Alright, another tale in the restoration of the most rusty 60 ever, we left off with the rear cross member where the driver side body mount was completely gone, while the drinker side looked pretty good. After much spot weld drilling and cutting, I was able to remove the entire assembly. In general the entire support structure was gone on both sides as can seen in the next two photos. Just rebuilding the cross member isn't going to be enough, how it's attached to the rear end will also need to be re engineered. Since no replacement parts are available, I used the parts website to at least try and replicate some of what I was working with. Before I removed anything I drilled a few locating holes for future use, these were super important when it came time to put it all back together.
Here is what is left, after all the parts were separated, the body mount on the driver's side is gone, as well as a lot of metal. Using the existing body mount I made an opposite side pattern and made a new one. Next I welded on a new “lip” on the bottom side. Then made the back side out of 18 gauge as I don't have a setup to make all the indents for strength. I only have a small break so I made 3 panels and welded it all together. There were a bunch of other chunks that had to be cut out and re-welded in. lots of seam sealer too to keep the water out.
I bet rebuilding the rear cross member took 15 hours at least… and now its ready to put it back in. I had 2 spot weld holes that I used on the back side to line everything up. I should have taken more photos, but each side needed 4 different sheet metal parts separately cut, folded and welded in to support the cross member at a close to OEM configuration. As can be seen in the photo there are a lot of ugly spot, plug, butt, and just tack welds holding it all together. After all the welding and grinding, I used some decent 3M seam sealer to seal it all up and protect it in the long run. I had an open tube from a different project so I decided to use it here.
Still lots to go, next up will be the passenger side rocker panels, similar to the driver side. Ill probably leave that off as I already described it here. When I start welding body panels back on, ill give another in depth update. Probably another 6ish weeks before house projects will take priority again, we will see, we have so much snow…
If there are any questions or thoughts, let me know, soon this will start to go back together, I can certainly tell my sheet metal skills are much better than when i started. This project is still silly, but its better than other things i could be doing I guess.
Chris
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ok mister, after seeing what you started with n what you've done so far, i'm gonna quit b!tchin' about the body repair still needed on mine. like your style, keep after it.
- Thread starter
- #49
Selling some parts
Classifieds ad for Colonel mustard parts
Axles, OME lift, and some other bits
going to do the 80 axle swap while I'm at it here
Classifieds ad for Colonel mustard parts
Axles, OME lift, and some other bits
going to do the 80 axle swap while I'm at it here
This thread comforts me from the fact that my truck looks this bad and needs this much rust work (especially down low), but the amount of skill and work that it takes to fix it scares the crap out of my wallet....
Great job, dude!!
- Thread starter
- #51
Short update today
Disassembled the whole rear floor, cleaned up and treated all the rust around the seat and seatbelt mounts. Inside of the frames were painted. Floor is back In. Still need to re weld and grind a ton of spot welds. But at least the body has some rigidity again.
Disassembled the whole rear floor, cleaned up and treated all the rust around the seat and seatbelt mounts. Inside of the frames were painted. Floor is back In. Still need to re weld and grind a ton of spot welds. But at least the body has some rigidity again.
Dekeman
SILVER Star
Crazy impressive, some mad dedication and skills right here.
no $h!t eh?
but what i'd like to know is, is he planning another texas chainsaw massacre?, 8 freakin' chainsaws. now 8 guns i could understand
. now 8 guns i could understand
- Thread starter
- #55
My second favorite thing to unnecessarily spend money on besides my land cruisers is chainsaws…. Each one has a purpose. I used to be a wild land fire fighter back in the day and do some tree work on the side.but what i'd like to know is, is he planning another texas chainsaw massacre?, 8 freakin' chainsaws
right on
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outstanding
- Thread starter
- #58
Small update today.
Turns out summer in MN is busy… not much time To work on the things I want to as of late.
Was able to do some work on the driver side rear wheel well and lower rear quarter panel. Trying to keep the stock looks to even re created the stiffener in there.
Both rear quarters are pretty bad. But with enough welding and grinding anything is possible. I have the Wolf replacement panels, but the shape isn’t quite what I want. I’ll use parts of the wheel arch when I get a bit further along.
I also have all the parts for an 80 series axle swap with front coil suspension and Eaton e lockers! Thank you Cruiser Brothers and Trail Tailor.
Turns out summer in MN is busy… not much time To work on the things I want to as of late.
Was able to do some work on the driver side rear wheel well and lower rear quarter panel. Trying to keep the stock looks to even re created the stiffener in there.
Both rear quarters are pretty bad. But with enough welding and grinding anything is possible. I have the Wolf replacement panels, but the shape isn’t quite what I want. I’ll use parts of the wheel arch when I get a bit further along.
I also have all the parts for an 80 series axle swap with front coil suspension and Eaton e lockers! Thank you Cruiser Brothers and Trail Tailor.
- Thread starter
- #60
Weekend progress
Stitched on the quarter panels I made and re created the rear wheel arch. Added bondo to see how close I’ll be. It’s not bad.
Stitched on the quarter panels I made and re created the rear wheel arch. Added bondo to see how close I’ll be. It’s not bad.
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