Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (3 Viewers)

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So... had to outsource some work, which I really try not to do. When I cut the flange off the axle housing, it didn't come off as clean as I wanted. I gave it to a friend that works at a machine shop and he was able to duplicate it and cut it on their laser table. Rather than try to salvage what I had cut off, I will now have a clean slate to work on. He gave me one in 3/16 and one in 1/4. We'll probably weld one of them on the axle tube and throw the whole thing in the mill to get it flat again.

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Made some good progress on the front axle today -

I trimmed the axle housing to match the inside contours of the new flange
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I made sure the axle was level before marking the final position of the new flange. I needed to do this because there is only one flat surface on the flange that's straight up and down.

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Next, I tapped 3 of the holes on the new flange and bolted it to the diff housing to try and get it as flat as possible before tacking it in position.

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Tacked into position -

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Burning the rest in -

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I did a double pass on the bottom half to prevent potential oil leaks from pinholes -

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Wife sandblasting the diff cover for the back -

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That is pretty amazing work. What did you do to ensure the right depth of the diff into the housing? So that the axles are positioned correctly on the diff end?
@UZJ40
I was wondering the same thing. Do you know the tolerances involved?
 
That is pretty amazing work. What did you do to ensure the right depth of the diff into the housing? So that the axles are positioned correctly on the diff end?

@UZJ40
I was wondering the same thing. Do you know the tolerances involved?
Well, I wish I could say it was in the factory location, but I highly doubt it is.

I thought about making a jig, milling the face, passing a calibrated piece of pipe through the axle tube, etc. But, I really got tired ov overthinking it and just wanted it done. In reality, the front diff will only be turning in 4 low, and not very often.

Where it's placed now, there's no twist in it, but I'm sure it's out horizontally and vertically by a few MMs, but I'm not sure it will matter for my use.
 
I was able to get the balls cut and turned. It was my first time doing it, and I learned a lot! Doesn't seem like many people have done it on 80 axles yet, so not many resources but fairly similar procedure.

Ground down the factory welds
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Cut 1/4" deep just inside the factory weld

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Rotated about 18 degrees (9 back to parallel with diff flange, then another 9 to complete the turn)

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Welded back in

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Now I'm starting to mount all of the factory mounts. They definitely won't be exact, but they'll be close. Cutting them off with the plasma was easy, but it left about 1/4" gap all around each mount. So, I set the axle on the jack stands, tacked the jack stands to the table, and tacked the axle housing so the flange is vertical for all of my base measurements.

Once they're all tacked, I will make little filler plates that bride between the axle tube and each mount. Should be plenty strong!

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Still having fun with the crawlers... Added a new one to the company fleet! It's a Bomber Fab, which is the most winning King of the Hammers vehicle. Also teaching my wife to drive with rear steer... lots of fun!

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Just read through this whole thread. As always, outstanding work man, and making me itchy to get started on my new 45. I also plan on extending the cab by about 12-18" and using a more modern chassis, but my plan is for a 2nd gen (or maybe 3rd gen, price dependant) 4runner chassis which will give me IFS up front and linked coils in the rear. Mine is also getting a 1uz vvti from my current DD, a lexus LS400.

Did you ever think of putting a manual transmission in?
 
I finished welding the brackets on today... It was quite a bit of work but all went smooth.

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I was able to get it mounted under the frame again which was pretty exciting! Tomorrow I'll throw the tires on and it'll be a roller again. At that point, I'll be able to place the engine and tub mounts. Just making it a roller again is a huge relief though!

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Was able to get the motor roughly in position. Everything looks good so far. I was concerned about retaining the factory 80 steering box in the factory location, but looks good so far.

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A couple funny notes on the 3UR...

The fan is way off center of the engine. It's on the driver side by about 6 inches.

There are no factory hooks to lift the engine. You actually have to purchase them from Toyota and bolt them into place, which is why I'm using straps that cradle the engine.
 
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