New Weatherstripping - Doors won't close (1 Viewer)

[capecodguy]

What are you using for adhesive?

3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. My application technique wasn't very good. I have since learned that you are supposed to apply very thin beads on both door and weatherstrip, spread with Popsicle stick and wait until tacky. Then apply fresh adhesive to weatherstrip and attach.

 

[swelltimes]

3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. My application technique wasn't very good. I have since learned that you are supposed to apply very thin beads on both door and weatherstrip, spread with Popsicle stick and wait until tacky. Then apply fresh adhesive to weatherstrip and attach.

Yep, that's a good way to go. You'll have better results that way, esp. after you clean it all up and keep your shop and the doors / WS warm.

 

[iptman]

Don't forget to use painters tape to keep the mess down if you redo it. The 3M spray adhesive remover will take the old adhesive off. Get a couple plastic putty knives to scrape with.

 

[tjhaga]

I think it is important to use a wax-degreaser or lacquer thinner to clean up the rubber seals, before you apply the adhesive.

 

[45Kevin]

I installed the same weatherstripping from SOR and had similar results.

I had to really push hard on the doors, but they would latch.
I adjusted the latch a bit and they now close with just a bit of a push.
But they are 100% waterproof, and it has been tested.

That was at least 3 years ago and they are still the same.
I was hoping they would compress a little over time. They haven't so far.
The result is the back part of the door sticks out beyond the body by 1/8" or so.

 

[capecodguy]

I installed the same weatherstripping from SOR and had similar results.

I had to really push hard on the doors, but they would latch.
I adjusted the latch a bit and they now close with just a bit of a push.
But they are 100% waterproof, and it has been tested.

That was at least 3 years ago and they are still the same.
I was hoping they would compress a little over time. They haven't so far.
The result is the back part of the door sticks out beyond the body by 1/8" or so.

Mine are way more out than an 1/8" of an inch. I ordered the OEM sets from City Racer and will compare with the SOR kit. I don't think the SOR kit is bad. It is just that I will probably ruin the weatherstripping when I remove it.

 

[capecodguy]

I think it is important to use a wax-degreaser or lacquer thinner to clean up the rubber seals, before you apply the adhesive.

Thanks for reminding me! I forgot about that step!

 

[iptman]

Just to be clear @Racer65 sells oem repro not oem.

 

[Splangy]

Just to be clear @Racer65 sells oem repro not oem.

He sells OEM for the early doors and high quality reproduction for the later doors.

 

[capecodguy]

Got the OEM weatherstrip from @Racer65. It's definitely different that the repro from SOR. The shape is different, it seems a little thinner and it is slit on the edge. I am optimistic this will work better. However, how do you deal with the door striker area? I don't think I can tuck it behind the striker but I see a picture from SOR that shows it that way. On the first install, I just cut the weatherstripping like shown.

View attachment 1880474

 

[bb67tlc]

I've got the same issue- this is the SOR stuff. Figure I have to cut out a slot for the striker, but seems odd. Curious how others have done it.

 

[capecodguy]

I got the old weatherstripping off. Lots of 3M adhesive remover and elbow grease. I'm getting ready to reinstall but still have the question about what to do when it comes to the striker area (see above). Any suggestions or pictures? Thanks.

 

[ginmtb]

I did some testing for @Racer65 on the 74 weatherstrip prototype - I just pushed the striker down and bolted it in place. Took a bit of effort if I recall correctly but worked.

 

[ginmtb]

Oh and to prep the weatherstrip I used that red scotchbrite pad and removed the mold release and slightly roughed up the surface. Seemed to work well! Also, I found that putting that additional adhesive after the two surfaces tacked up to actually slow things down (sometimes the surfaces wouldn’t “bite” immediately) and I ended up having to clamp more. Do small sections at a time that is key too.

 

[capecodguy]

Oh and to prep the weatherstrip I used that red scotchbrite pad and removed the mold release and slightly roughed up the surface. Seemed to work well! Also, I found that putting that additional adhesive after the two surfaces tacked up to actually slow things down (sometimes the surfaces wouldn’t “bite” immediately) and I ended up having to clamp more. Do small sections at a time that is key too.

Thanks!

 

[airon23]

I'm getting ready to go through this process on my earlier model doors (76 FJ40). Any additional thoughts or lessons learned I should watch out for?

I'll keep the sections small, I was thinking split the vertical sides of the doors into 2 or 3 sections and the top and bottom into 1 or 2 sections.

Any suggestions that help are welcome.

 

[69LC]

I would suggest using a wax pencil to mark the door hinges and doors so you can put them back on exactly as they were set before.

One of the earlier posts discussed having door closure issues most likely not because of the new seals, but more likely due to the doors being too far forward towards the hinges and binding against the A-pillar halves prior to the door closing.

 

[iptman]

My issue was certainly adjustment related but marking the doors ahead of time didn't help. My weather stripping was so bad and a PO just adjusted the doors as much as they could to seal the doors. When I put the doors back on where they were when I took them off I was binding at the A pillar. I was also having a problem where the door latch wouldn't drop down on to the second part of the catch. I redid the WS, replaced the door latch mechanism and adjusted the hinges (door half's) and was able to get them to shut properly, albeit still pretty tight.

 

[69LC]

How are your body mounts and tub alignment? Those can affect proper door function as well.

Do you still have a hard top or is it removed? The top cab help hold the tub in place if the related tub and mounts have flexed away from factory specs.

When I designed the Quik Hinges I gave more adjustment to allow for the creaks and groans of old tubs.