NMBruce
SILVER Star
Never had a reason to drift on a trail (like Dan) and I have a different car for those maneuvers (off trail).
I did, but don’t anymore and since I no longer track a car. Don’t push my SLK that way.
ATRAC question for GX 470 compared to other models (1 Viewer)
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I did, but don’t anymore and since I no longer track a car. Don’t push my SLK that way.
Found some FJ threads with the same feelings as me about ABS and they found a 12v pin to pull from a plug in the DS kick panel and wired in a switch.
Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
I guess I need to pick-up a wiring manual and start researching.
Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
I guess I need to pick-up a wiring manual and start researching.
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Hi all, I wanted to pipe in on this. I certainly appreciate the desire to disable ABS and I'm wondering if some of us on here have not really experienced ABS in action in our vehicles. I don't know that, but in 25~ years of driving I've only had ABS kick in a handful of times so I think it's possible that not everyone has experienced it in action. A good example is if you ever drive in snow on pavement - on a slippery surface like that it's easy and likely to get ABS to activate. And it's annoying because your stopping distance increases and often by a lot. The point of ABS is so that if you make a hard brake the wheels keep turning and you can steer around an object to avoid it as opposed to locking wheels and skidding rights towards it. The down side is the increased distance needed to stop if you are just trying to stop quickly and not trying to avoid an object.
Bluetribal if you succeed on your on/off switch please post results. Thx
Bluetribal if you succeed on your on/off switch please post results. Thx
Yeah, I am only trying to disable it for off-road use. The 80 Series Land Cruiser in every other country had it right and when you activated the the Center Lock for off-road use it would also de-activate ABS and that light would come up on the dash.
Thankfully someone realized that the US spec 80 Series had the pig tail in the dash and we were able to remove the cap on the plug and hook up a $10 Hazard switch or fork out $30 or $40 for an actual CDL switch.
So sometime between 1997 and 2003 I will eithe blame lawyers or EngiNerds for the disconnect of ABS being removed from our control.
Thankfully someone realized that the US spec 80 Series had the pig tail in the dash and we were able to remove the cap on the plug and hook up a $10 Hazard switch or fork out $30 or $40 for an actual CDL switch.
So sometime between 1997 and 2003 I will eithe blame lawyers or EngiNerds for the disconnect of ABS being removed from our control.
I’m reviving this thread because it has some traction (pun intended).
I’m actually trying to figure out how to troubleshoot my ATRAC on my 2003. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot ATRAC? Fuse? Relay? Wires? How can I tell if ABS/ATRAC was disabled by PO?
My Downhill Assist (DAC) works fine in 4Lo, so I know my wheel sensors and brakes work fine.
For two months of exploration in mild to medium trails I thought I had gotten better at making sure my wheels don’t spin. I would not go over 2000 RPMs, I would go in 4Lo when the terrain looked like it needed it, always lock the center as soon as I hit dirt. During these two months, my wheel spinning was minimal. So, I thought things were great.
Yesterday in terrain that was heavily eroded and rutted by rain, I couldn’t make it up the start of Cadillac Trail in Trabuco Creek Road. My tires were spinning too much when I entered the uphill rutted area. I was in 4Lo, centered locked, and kept RPMs under 2000. I did not air down, but nobody else aired down. Yeah, I should have aired down but they were leaving me behind!
My friend on a 2005 LR3 has rear and center locks made it up no problem. His suspension is stock with 31” tires. I was following the same line that he took. He’s lifted by his air suspension by about 2”. I’m raised higher due to my larger tires 32.7 BFG KOs plus my 2.5” lift, so I have more clearance.
Another guy at the trail on a stock FJ Cruiser with just the front slightly raised by spacers, made it up no problem. He noted that we actually had the same wheels and tires. He had rear and center locks. Atrac too. His atrac works fine and asked me if I hear noises from atrac kicking in and i don’t recall.
I had to reverse and take a less rutted line, but I made it up twice that same starting point at the base of the hill. I just couldn’t take the same exact line that both the LR3 and FJC took due to wheel spinning. I had to go around.
We continued and made it 3/4 of the way up the hill on a rutted road to an overlook right before a locked gate, so we couldn’t get to the top of Cadillac Trail.
Anyways, my wheels spun several more times on this trail primarily because the trail was very rudded in some areas.
So, is it just the fact I didn’t air down? Or something else not preventing ATRAC?
Unfortunately, no video.
I’m actually trying to figure out how to troubleshoot my ATRAC on my 2003. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot ATRAC? Fuse? Relay? Wires? How can I tell if ABS/ATRAC was disabled by PO?
My Downhill Assist (DAC) works fine in 4Lo, so I know my wheel sensors and brakes work fine.
For two months of exploration in mild to medium trails I thought I had gotten better at making sure my wheels don’t spin. I would not go over 2000 RPMs, I would go in 4Lo when the terrain looked like it needed it, always lock the center as soon as I hit dirt. During these two months, my wheel spinning was minimal. So, I thought things were great.
Yesterday in terrain that was heavily eroded and rutted by rain, I couldn’t make it up the start of Cadillac Trail in Trabuco Creek Road. My tires were spinning too much when I entered the uphill rutted area. I was in 4Lo, centered locked, and kept RPMs under 2000. I did not air down, but nobody else aired down. Yeah, I should have aired down but they were leaving me behind!
My friend on a 2005 LR3 has rear and center locks made it up no problem. His suspension is stock with 31” tires. I was following the same line that he took. He’s lifted by his air suspension by about 2”. I’m raised higher due to my larger tires 32.7 BFG KOs plus my 2.5” lift, so I have more clearance.
Another guy at the trail on a stock FJ Cruiser with just the front slightly raised by spacers, made it up no problem. He noted that we actually had the same wheels and tires. He had rear and center locks. Atrac too. His atrac works fine and asked me if I hear noises from atrac kicking in and i don’t recall.
I had to reverse and take a less rutted line, but I made it up twice that same starting point at the base of the hill. I just couldn’t take the same exact line that both the LR3 and FJC took due to wheel spinning. I had to go around.
We continued and made it 3/4 of the way up the hill on a rutted road to an overlook right before a locked gate, so we couldn’t get to the top of Cadillac Trail.
Anyways, my wheels spun several more times on this trail primarily because the trail was very rudded in some areas.
So, is it just the fact I didn’t air down? Or something else not preventing ATRAC?
Unfortunately, no video.
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Were you giving the ATRAC time to work? You need to stay on the gas with constant pressure and let the computer take over and get you through.
The difference more than anything was probably the rear lockers that both of them had and you don’t have.
And always air down. They will wait unless they are complete AHoles
The difference more than anything was probably the rear lockers that both of them had and you don’t have.
And always air down. They will wait unless they are complete AHoles
I need to calibrate my Norte air deflators this weekend in time for Death Valley, so I can air down faster. I don’t think my friends saw me stay back and struggle.
I did stay on the gas for like 10 seconds and I would hear the drivers side rear and the passenger front spin. What I can’t hear is the brakes going on for atrac like they do for DAC. DAC is very loud. For Atrac I can’t hear anything.
How do I check if atrac is on and working on my rig? I want to make sure it wasn’t permanently disabled.
I just realized it’s an irony that you want to disable abs and I want to make sure atrac is on which probably needs abs.
I did stay on the gas for like 10 seconds and I would hear the drivers side rear and the passenger front spin. What I can’t hear is the brakes going on for atrac like they do for DAC. DAC is very loud. For Atrac I can’t hear anything.
How do I check if atrac is on and working on my rig? I want to make sure it wasn’t permanently disabled.
I just realized it’s an irony that you want to disable abs and I want to make sure atrac is on which probably needs abs.
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I want my atrac to work like this 4Runner
I know you can hear it when its working. I make fun of my buddies 4runner every time we go out for the sound it makes when he's climbing a rock.
It sounds like it should have worked in that scenario. How the hell did a po disable ATRAC?
That truck has Crawl Control. And it's up in the headliner. I bet he engaged Crawl.
If you want ATRAC to work it's best use the gas with the right foot and the brake with the left. Get the gas to about 1800 rpm and hold and release brakes gently to control speed.
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Also, the Light Blinks when you have slip and Atrac engages.
Another thought. Rather then edit previous post. I see you have OEM rear bags but also a fair amount of height in the back and front. As you raise a vehicle you loose down travel. Severely limiting traction in anything that is cross camber like the ruts in the picture. Your Atrac should still have engaged. But just a thought. 2.5" in the front at most with normal (not extended) length shocks is kinda the limit if you ask me. I had Bilsteins at 2" and the lack of down travel was very noticeable. Protection and down travel is more important then a ton of height if you ask me.
Another thought. Rather then edit previous post. I see you have OEM rear bags but also a fair amount of height in the back and front. As you raise a vehicle you loose down travel. Severely limiting traction in anything that is cross camber like the ruts in the picture. Your Atrac should still have engaged. But just a thought. 2.5" in the front at most with normal (not extended) length shocks is kinda the limit if you ask me. I had Bilsteins at 2" and the lack of down travel was very noticeable. Protection and down travel is more important then a ton of height if you ask me.
I thought using the brakes disabled ATRAC? Is that not the case with our cars?
Or are you saying once you release the brakes completely ATRAC kicks in
I don't know for sure as I have heard multiple views. I do know that my process is much improved by using the two foot method. Less wheel spin. More control.
I’m anxious to test the A-TRAC in the GX vs my FJC. In the FJ, A-TRAC is a selectable feature only available in 4LO. It’s a crawl feature that is best suited for overcoming offcamber obstacles when hanging a tire or a few is going to happen. ABS kicks in, locks the spinning tire and sends torque to the one with traction. In this scenario, you could have opposite front and rear tires in the air and A-TRAC would distribute torque to the two that needed traction.
Two footed driving is always encouraged as it allows you to have more control of placement and momentum. You are then able maintain a steady throttle (like what most mentioned 1800-2000 RPM) and allow it to work it’s magic!
I can’t see where it would/ could be effective in 4HI settings as this would be counterintuitive to the designed purpose. It doesn’t do well in deep snow or mud and you can actually overheat the brakes and shut it down (ask me how I know
)
I’ve always used it as a crawling feature in combination w/ the rear locker when a bump was needed to get over an obstacle.
That’s why I’ve been searching for a cancel or disable switch for when momentum is needed. A-TRAC is a momentum killer.
Two footed driving is always encouraged as it allows you to have more control of placement and momentum. You are then able maintain a steady throttle (like what most mentioned 1800-2000 RPM) and allow it to work it’s magic!
I can’t see where it would/ could be effective in 4HI settings as this would be counterintuitive to the designed purpose. It doesn’t do well in deep snow or mud and you can actually overheat the brakes and shut it down (ask me how I know
) I’ve always used it as a crawling feature in combination w/ the rear locker when a bump was needed to get over an obstacle.
That’s why I’ve been searching for a cancel or disable switch for when momentum is needed. A-TRAC is a momentum killer.
Atrac does disable if you tap the brakes. The idea of brake first, rev RPMs <2000, let off gas is to provide a modicum of "bump" to kick off your Atrac moment. Atrac will engage in this scenario and remain so until you a) exceed 2000 RPM or b) exceed 5 MPH or c) tap the brakes. You can two foot drive all day long with this method, as long as you allow Atrac to reset between any of the events listed above. But as @joabmc mentions, you can overheat the ABS and your brakes this way quickly.
Sometimes momentum leads to a significant inertia moment...which leads to broken CVs Atrac is a big lifesaver of IFS in that it prevents axles from binding up the way a locker intentionally does. Each device has its uses for the right application. Lockers are a last resort for me. I tend to wheel open (w/ some two foot driving), until I know I'm coming up on an obstacle, then I use Atrac. If Atrac doesn't work, then I re-assess how badly I want to get over this obstacle, and if I want to continue, I engage the front locker.
Atrac is a big lifesaver of IFS in that it prevents axles from binding up the way a locker intentionally does. Each device has its uses for the right application. Lockers are a last resort for me. I tend to wheel open (w/ some two foot driving), until I know I'm coming up on an obstacle, then I use Atrac. If Atrac doesn't work, then I re-assess how badly I want to get over this obstacle, and if I want to continue, I engage the front locker.
@DanKunz I was trying to figure out if the PO disabled ATRAC, but I see your point. You cannot disable ATRAC, so PO couldn't possibly have disabled it.
@joabmc I'm eager to find out how your ATRAC works just because I can't figure out what's up with mine.
@co4wheel I found this in the owner's manual about the "slip indicator" light going on when ATRAC is working. I don't believe that I see that when my wheels are spinning while in 4Lo, center locked, stopped in an off-camber position and accelerating slowly up to 2000 RPMs. I only remember seeing the solid LEDs on the dash for VSC Off and center lock. I'm going to use my GoPro in Death Valley to record my dashboard if I get some wheel slip. I really want to see what's going on with the slip indicator.
@BMThiker I will use the two-foot driving method for now when I get wheel spin.
Also, I understand that I might be pushing the limits of my shocks because I might be lifted 2" to 2.5" all around on stock shocks. I don't have the exact lift because the PO did the lift. The front coilovers (Bilstein 6112s) are on the 2nd notch and the rear has the airbag trick. I measured 22.75" in the front from hub to fender. 23.25" in the rear from hub to fender. What's that equate in terms of a lift?
I do have the OMEs 60004 rear shocks that are supposed to be good for a lift up to 2" in the rear. But anyhow, I really want to focus on my ATRAC. I need to make sure it's working since I really need it without rear or front lockers.
@joabmc I'm eager to find out how your ATRAC works just because I can't figure out what's up with mine.
@co4wheel I found this in the owner's manual about the "slip indicator" light going on when ATRAC is working. I don't believe that I see that when my wheels are spinning while in 4Lo, center locked, stopped in an off-camber position and accelerating slowly up to 2000 RPMs. I only remember seeing the solid LEDs on the dash for VSC Off and center lock. I'm going to use my GoPro in Death Valley to record my dashboard if I get some wheel slip. I really want to see what's going on with the slip indicator.
@BMThiker I will use the two-foot driving method for now when I get wheel spin.
Also, I understand that I might be pushing the limits of my shocks because I might be lifted 2" to 2.5" all around on stock shocks. I don't have the exact lift because the PO did the lift. The front coilovers (Bilstein 6112s) are on the 2nd notch and the rear has the airbag trick. I measured 22.75" in the front from hub to fender. 23.25" in the rear from hub to fender. What's that equate in terms of a lift?
I do have the OMEs 60004 rear shocks that are supposed to be good for a lift up to 2" in the rear. But anyhow, I really want to focus on my ATRAC. I need to make sure it's working since I really need it without rear or front lockers.
I am the owner of that TRD 4Runner in the video linked. That obstacle was first attempted without ATRAC and the rear locker was not engaged. I just hit that "trap" and had poor traction. When I didn't make it through, I I reached up and turned on ATRAC and was able to drive right through.
I did not turn on the Crawl Control, in fact I personally don't ever use the Crawl Control unless I'm just playing with buttons. With my driving style I don't find Crawl Control useful.
ATRAC, on the other hand, I use all the time. I usually just have it turned on but I didn't that day.
In addition, I also personally do NOT use the brake and throttle technique. I find the ATRAC to work wonderfully and it engages when it should with normal throttle. I just use mild, constant throttle and the the ATRAC do its job. Sadly, I only have experience with the ATRAC in the 2015 4Runner, I don't know if the 2003 ATRAC responds differently.
If you listen closely in that YouTube video you can hear the ATRAC firing when the wheel spins. There is a pulsing or clicking sound. I assume that's the ABS brakes firing. I find on my 2015 it is fairly loud and obvious. I can hear exactly what the image from the owner's manual mentions. When I start my engine (right after I put it in Drive), I hear the same pulsing sound of the system doing the self check. When the ATRAC is active while offroad, that sound is very obvious. But once again, my 2015 4Runner might be different than a 2003 since I don't have experience with it in that year.
