Is there anything other than brake lines, hoses, and exhaust components I should avoid while I'm POR-ing the heck out of the underbody of my 100?
What underbody parts to avoid when applying POR15 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter benjawi4
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Why POR it in the first place?
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She's beyond rusty. Didn't do enough homework before I jumped on a plane to MN to buy it...not to say I don't love it, because I do...just rusty...
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
Why Not...??
I love that stuff, but is always nice to know possible problems and issues
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Do you know of a better product to use, a brush-on paint that is superior?
As a excellent rust converter paint that really hold, the only downfall is no UV protectant (6-8 mo in sun & it looks like 60% satin powdercoat).
Bites like heck on rust, so why not use it?
I toss my junk on the lift & go at it with POR-15 myself, even though no rust it holds relatively well on my undercarriage. I prefer brush paint as you can really goop it in crannies that otherwise would like to try rusting on you.
This is what I am thinking about using the summer
Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating
Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating
Any reviews on Chassis Saver vs POR-15? I know my Monstaliner is holding up well, I assume the chassis saver is just as good.
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Por is nothing special. I used a ton of it amd my rust still came back.
My suggestion on the underneath is to wite brush all the loose rust and clean with a good degreaser and acrub brush. Then paint with tremclad or such. Next step oil the crap of it.
If you want you can skip the paint and just oil it many times.
Oily metal does not continue rusting.
Por is nothing special. I used a ton of it amd my rust still came back.
My suggestion on the underneath is to wite brush all the loose rust and clean with a good degreaser and acrub brush. Then paint with tremclad or such. Next step oil the crap of it.
If you want you can skip the paint and just oil it many times.
Oily metal does not continue rusting.
Fluid film ...
Is fluid film that good. You don't get the nice black sheen and has to be reapplied every year
It's all about the prep with any paint system. But when you follow the correct steps... POR is awesome.
And when you choose a good coating system (not POR) the results are even awesomer.
What do you suggest?
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
So all the bickering aside, Can anyone actually answer the question? If your going to coat the underside with anything, what shouldnt be coated aside from brake lines elocker etc.
Im about to do this on my FJ45. Ive had great results with POR15 in the past and like mentioned above its all about the prep work.
I would avoid bolts on suspension components, diff etc that you may need to get off later. Sure an impact would most likely brake them free in the future but why deal with the headache and possible stripping issue.
I have a product in my garage that I have not tested yet but it seems to get good reviews by Eastwood for coating the inside of the frame in those hard to reach areas.
Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Black 14oz
When your ready to prep try and get all the loose stuff off and then power wash the hell out of the frame and inside the frame rails as much as possible. Then let her bake in the sun for 2 or 3 days to make sure its as dry as possible before applying.
Here is a front axle I brought back to life from the junk yard using POR15
I would avoid bolts on suspension components, diff etc that you may need to get off later. Sure an impact would most likely brake them free in the future but why deal with the headache and possible stripping issue.
I have a product in my garage that I have not tested yet but it seems to get good reviews by Eastwood for coating the inside of the frame in those hard to reach areas.
Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Black 14oz
When your ready to prep try and get all the loose stuff off and then power wash the hell out of the frame and inside the frame rails as much as possible. Then let her bake in the sun for 2 or 3 days to make sure its as dry as possible before applying.
Here is a front axle I brought back to life from the junk yard using POR15
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
With where you live, and if you can get down to clean metal or solidly attached rust - you might want to try Tnemec brand aluminum content primer.
It only comes in silver, but I used to walk into repair jobs in a sulphuric acid plant where high pressure, high temp acid sprayed on things until it was noticed & shutdown.
That paint beat 200* acid that would eat all but plastic or rubberized bedlinered containment troughs.
You have to keep it off threads or anything over 750* - you can't paint exhaust with it like the Eastwood stuff.
I've only ever seen it in brush-on form, no instructions on can to reduce like if you were to spray. Generally we had a epoxy based paint over this stuff, but that paint melted like frosting in hot acid, but the primer always stayed put with the worst damage being it turned bronze from silver where acid sprayed it.
We duct taped unions before painting, duct tape was best masking agent we had onhand, worked good for say your bolt thread/shanks & brake hose fittings.
It only comes in silver, but I used to walk into repair jobs in a sulphuric acid plant where high pressure, high temp acid sprayed on things until it was noticed & shutdown.
That paint beat 200* acid that would eat all but plastic or rubberized bedlinered containment troughs.
You have to keep it off threads or anything over 750* - you can't paint exhaust with it like the Eastwood stuff.
I've only ever seen it in brush-on form, no instructions on can to reduce like if you were to spray. Generally we had a epoxy based paint over this stuff, but that paint melted like frosting in hot acid, but the primer always stayed put with the worst damage being it turned bronze from silver where acid sprayed it.
We duct taped unions before painting, duct tape was best masking agent we had onhand, worked good for say your bolt thread/shanks & brake hose fittings.
c2dfj45
Supporting Vendor
We are doing the floors in my 45LV in the Master Series CT silver rust sealer. I've used POR on quite a few trucks.....it's nice stuff but to get it right, it takes quite a bit of prep....exactly as the instructions say. Metal prep is critical in my opinion. In any event, we did the Master Series CT on the LVs floor boards and I'm really happy with it. We put it on with a brush(can be sprayed too). We also added in some fiberglass mat in a few areas where we had holes(larger than a pinhole)...we backed the holes with tape. After a week of drying, it's nearly bulletproof. You can't chip the stuff off. Similar to a properly done POR job but different. This stuff is smoother. It filled in the pitted floors. You can put body filler on top, under it, it's a permanent sealer that uses aluminum to do the job in sealing rust.
Prep was minima(we had a mix of old paint, new paint, new steel and rust steel). We cleaned, etched the bare steel, cleaned the rusty stuff, sanded the old paint. It covered evenly and is able to be built up. This stuff is not runny like Por15.
It's impressive to use. If you read the testing on it, it's even more impressive. In my research I was reading about the old formulation of POR15 and how it used to be aluminum colored, like the Masterseries....they changed that to make it black to appeal to car guys....that changed the formula. Master Series stuck with their formulation. Something like that. It was a good read.....if it was accurate.
This week we'll scuff it down with 320(you do not want to scratch thru the coating to expose the original rusted surface...thus the reason for the 320 vs something heavier). Then we'll lay down our Lizard Skin coatings and Raptor liner.
MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT
Prep was minima(we had a mix of old paint, new paint, new steel and rust steel). We cleaned, etched the bare steel, cleaned the rusty stuff, sanded the old paint. It covered evenly and is able to be built up. This stuff is not runny like Por15.
It's impressive to use. If you read the testing on it, it's even more impressive. In my research I was reading about the old formulation of POR15 and how it used to be aluminum colored, like the Masterseries....they changed that to make it black to appeal to car guys....that changed the formula. Master Series stuck with their formulation. Something like that. It was a good read.....if it was accurate.
This week we'll scuff it down with 320(you do not want to scratch thru the coating to expose the original rusted surface...thus the reason for the 320 vs something heavier). Then we'll lay down our Lizard Skin coatings and Raptor liner.
MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT
If you really believed that metal prep is critical, you would have sandblasted to remove the rust and previous coatings.
And if you did that, you probably would have used an epoxy instead of this stuff.
Also, they recommend 220 grit, not 320 grit for scuffing prior to topcoating. Obtaining a proper surface profile is pretty important. I would follow their recommendations.
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Doesn't matter what you use if rust isn't cut out your just buying time. Fibreglass bondo etc. will cover it over but not deactivate the rusting process. A good rust paint after a stabilizer is a help. Prep should take a long time if done right. Ie get all the rust out.dont forget inside frame rails etc.
