You can approach rust a few ways, all dependant on what time and resource you have. What you are most basically after is to stop the rust component that is easiest to combat- oxygen. Without it, iron doesn't form iron oxide. The closer you can get to the raw metal on your frame the better (remember-resources). Best case, rent a sand blaster and get after it. You really won't hurt much under there just watch shock shafts mainly. You don't need white clean, just scale free. If you can't do that wire brush til you are numb.
From here, metal prep is nice as it is phosphoric acid. What it does is make an iron phosphate coating on the surface which is instant primer. Etch prime does the same thing, as is rust converter primer like Extend.
Next comes the poison you pick which is an oxygen barrier; Chassis Saver, POR 15, catalyzed paint (varying quality levels that tend to follow cost), or crappy spray paint (get what you pay for). Finally, your maintenance oxygen barrier that is ultimately the first line of defense - fluid film, waste oil, or (my favorite) wal mart cooking spray for under 2 bucks a can.
Do these and you will be in great shape. And don't be afraid to wash the bottom weekly in the winter.
From here, metal prep is nice as it is phosphoric acid. What it does is make an iron phosphate coating on the surface which is instant primer. Etch prime does the same thing, as is rust converter primer like Extend.
Next comes the poison you pick which is an oxygen barrier; Chassis Saver, POR 15, catalyzed paint (varying quality levels that tend to follow cost), or crappy spray paint (get what you pay for). Finally, your maintenance oxygen barrier that is ultimately the first line of defense - fluid film, waste oil, or (my favorite) wal mart cooking spray for under 2 bucks a can.
Do these and you will be in great shape. And don't be afraid to wash the bottom weekly in the winter.
