- Thread starter
- #141
Thanks! directly from gobi. Took 3 weeks to deliver.
Builds Savirc Aircruiser build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter savirc
- Start date
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Great detail in that engine compartment. Wish I had half the electrical knowledge... My aux and fog lights are still not connected lol!
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
@savirc Great build so far. I've got a '99 rear axle w/ locker i pulled from a wrecked 100 and am going to end up ordering the Slee locker control box. Maybe i missed it in your thread, but are you using the 12voltguy.com wiring harness to run from the Slee box to the rear axle harness? If not, what is your plan for that?
- Thread starter
- #144
Yep that's the plan already underway. I will say I'm not completely happy on the ticknees of the wiring from 12 volt guy. It's very thin wire to have outside the truck and near heat around axle and exhaust. We will see how long it lasts
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Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
How did you know which plugs you needed and how long etc, any info you have would be appreciated. I may order one up from him.
- Thread starter
- #146
I had to do some research. My axle is off a 99 and this is what I ordered:
1 X E-LOCKER CABLE KIT - E-LOCKER CABLE LENGTH: 17.5', E-LOCKER CABLE PLUG TYPE: STD
On the lenght I had to guess a bit but now half way done seems to be a little over at 17.5 feet. I would order that lenght again if I had to and just bundle the excess, I'm installing the slee cpu on the knee panel at driver side. The plug fit right into the e locker but the sensor switch has a little plastic channel on the plug that I will need to file down on the axle side. In other words the plug at the sensor has an extra plastic lip where the 12voltguy.com plug doesnt. So plan is to file down that lip on the sensor plug. You really don't need the sensor or the connection of the sensor for the slee cpu but I'm installing a led light to show when the locker is on and will be using the sensor as the light negative to display when the locker is activated.
Did you ever take pics of the new boot installed. How big was the hole you drilled? Do you need to do any other extra sealing on the hole?
Curious. Did the winch bolt right up ?
- Thread starter
- #149
I never installed the other (better) boot, didn't see it necessary, plus now I need it to plug a drain hole to run wires underneath for the locker and I don't want to buy another one they are spendy and in this area it does need to be as water tight as possible. I don't think boots on the fire wall have to be pressure air tight for water. They just need to be splash resistant, I've learned especially after looking under the truck there are several dozen holes that are not even water tight and seem to do fine. The hole was drilled specifically to fit the size of the dividing ring on the boot (I don't remember the exact size), it ended up being a bit smaller which makes the boot a little wrinkled, I might go back and adjust that, but so far the boot will keep water away as long as I'm not submerged completely for several minutes and at the height of the boot that would mean several other more important things would of been completely underwater.
- Thread starter
- #150
Winch bolted right up no issues on the 03+ ARB. The control box I had to finagle a bit for a few minutes but also bolted right up.
Great and good to know.
- Thread starter
- #154
Some delayed updates, I wired my stock rear e-locker I swaped from a 98 and had some issues with the CPU after a few weeks, ordered another one and finally its all working. I will list the details on the thread. Just an FYI Slee does not warranty or return these CPU's even though it says 1 year warranty on their PDF document and instructions which had the wrong wires listed by the way (I called them and they corrected it). They refused to admit there could be anything wrong with their CPU, everything is perfect and tested then? doubt it especially with electronics. I ordered mine way too long ago so I didn't fight the warranty much but I got a flat out answer no returns, no exchanges, no refunds, no warranty. They did offer for me to send it back at my cost and take a look but after a long discussion I didn't want to waste my time with them anymore. For this reason I can no longer recommend the Slee CPU and recommend using the stock CPU as I found it can be used just like the Slee without wiring up to the tranny. There are other solutions in the market other than this one.
I also realized I did not post in my build the replacement of my actuator motor in my driverside door. Here is the part information for the driverside door lock actuator:
The motors are so cheap I recommend buying both kinds. All threads I read said the 01 and up had the flat half shaft and turned out it did not. I'd get both kinds if I was you just to be sure. they are 10 dollars each.
One it really had:
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125
Item# 281912164741
One I was told it had:
Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine
Sold by: Surplus Deal USA
Save your self trouble buy both.
I also realized I did not post in my build the replacement of my actuator motor in my driverside door. Here is the part information for the driverside door lock actuator:
The motors are so cheap I recommend buying both kinds. All threads I read said the 01 and up had the flat half shaft and turned out it did not. I'd get both kinds if I was you just to be sure. they are 10 dollars each.
One it really had:
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125
Item# 281912164741
One I was told it had:
Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine
Sold by: Surplus Deal USA
Save your self trouble buy both.
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- Thread starter
- #155
Took a trip to Hidden Falls for some wheeling. I didn't really wheel my rig but was a passenger and learned a lot. Here is what I learned/confirmed:
1- If you have a 98 or a 99 replace your front diff with the later model and that should be your priority. Front locker would Be better if you can afford it.
2- Hundy rear lower control arms need skid plates. Anyone know where I can get some?
3- Always be ready for repairs on trail.
Again I was not a wheeling, I was a passenger and those where my observations. Here are some pics.
1- If you have a 98 or a 99 replace your front diff with the later model and that should be your priority. Front locker would Be better if you can afford it.
2- Hundy rear lower control arms need skid plates. Anyone know where I can get some?
3- Always be ready for repairs on trail.
Again I was not a wheeling, I was a passenger and those where my observations. Here are some pics.
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I have an '03 with the "stronger diff." It is (was LOL!) as strong as melted butter.
If you are going to do the work opening the diff, I'd advise you put a locker in there for added strength, otherwise, just to change for an 03+ OEM diff, don't waste your money.
If you are going to do the work opening the diff, I'd advise you put a locker in there for added strength, otherwise, just to change for an 03+ OEM diff, don't waste your money.
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YOu are killing me with the rear emu wings. Such a needed upgrade.
As far as front diffs go, put a locker in. I broke a 99 front diff and always felt on edge wheeling my 00. My next 100 has arb's front and rear.
;<)
As far as front diffs go, put a locker in. I broke a 99 front diff and always felt on edge wheeling my 00. My next 100 has arb's front and rear.
;<)
