Builds Savirc Aircruiser build

[savirc]

Intalled Blue sea fuse box and Blue sea outlets. I had to do several things that I didn't want to do to, get the fusebox in a covered but accessible spot behind the jack door and the outlets were they are.

I relocated my tool set to the inside of the passenger side arm rest lid. Relocated fuel pump controller to a lower spot on the same section to make room for the plugs. I also had to drill two holes on the woofer box which I sealed with hot glue. Again I didn't want to do all of this but it was the best place for me to have this fuse box and outlet based on my build.

 

[savirc]

Plugs

 

[savirc]

I've had my dual battery setup and rear power completed now for several weeks but have not updated the thread.

For reference I used the following:

DUAL BATT

• Optima yellow top Group D35 Yellow Top Battery Part # OPT8040-218
• Blue Sea isolator SI-ARC 7610 (no master switch)
• Bussmann 100 amp breakers CB185-100
• 4 GA wire for + /- between batteries
• Custom brackets out of flat bar
• Blue Sea OLED DC voltmeter
• Blue Sea Minibus 100 Amp Buss Bar

REAR 12v AUX BATT CONSTANT

• Blue Sea 6 circuit Fuse Block 5025 ST
• 6 GA + cable
• Blue Sea 12v sockets

Overall layout and switch location:

 

[savirc]

Some things I've learned about the SI-ARC 7610. Things you can read on blue sea but in practice I got caught off guard about.

The Blue Sea isolator cuts/separates batteries when there is draw from either battery and its under 12.XX volts. I know, I know everyone knows that. That's what its supposed to do. Here is where I got caught off guard on this logic. I have the Dometic fridge on the truck pretty much full time running off the AUX Battery.

Fridge is set up to cut off when battery goes below 11.25 volts. When this happens or anytime between 12V-11.25V the isolator separates the AUX battery even when the truck is running. What happens then is I have to wait until the fridge compressor is not running hence no power draw on the AUX Battery for isolator to begin sending power to charge to the AUX battery.

My fridge cycles compressor on/off once its off the charging begins and quickly charges the battery back up.


This explanation is difficult to understand I know, all you have to know is the isolator will not charge the AUX battery if there is a draw in power and its below 12 volts.

This is not really a problem for me and you can avoid this scenario by getting a master combine switch if you want to. For me the setup works fine.

 

[enfield]

Awesome build man! I just bought a 2000 LC and I'm planning some of the same mods and taking similar trips. Big Bend, PINS and Oklahoma/Arkansas areas are the goal.

 

[brizzle]

Some things I've learned about the SI-ARC 7610. Things you can read on blue sea but in practice I got caught off guard about.

The Blue Sea isolator cuts/separates batteries when there is draw from either battery and its under 12.XX volts. I know, I know everyone knows that. That's what its supposed to do. Here is where I got caught off guard on this logic. I have the Dometic fridge on the truck pretty much full time running off the AUX Battery.

Fridge is set up to cut off when battery goes below 11.25 volts. When this happens or anytime between 12V-11.25V the isolator separates the AUX battery even when the truck is running. What happens then is I have to wait until the fridge compressor is not running hence no power draw on the AUX Battery for isolator to begin sending power to charge to the AUX battery.

My fridge cycles compressor on/off once its off the charging begins and quickly charges the battery back up.


This explanation is difficult to understand I know, all you have to know is the isolator will not charge the AUX battery if there is a draw in power and its below 12 volts.

This is not really a problem for me and you can avoid this scenario by getting a master combine switch if you want to. For me the setup works fine.

This is interesting to me as I am currently investigating what I would like to install and your setup is close to what I am planning. This comment is purely based on how I think things should work and not hands on experience. What you described didn't make sense to me unless you have the aux battery on the A (right) side and start on the B (left). When the start is on A it doesn't close the circuit until voltage rises to ensure the aux battery doesn't put a load on a depleted start side. Once the voltage rises then the circuit closes. I couldn't tell from the pictures how you wired the switch. Let me know if I am on to something or confused I hope that makes sense.

 

[savirc]

This is interesting to me as I am currently investigating what I would like to install and your setup is close to what I am planning. This comment is purely based on how I think things should work and not hands on experience. What you described didn't make sense to me unless you have the aux battery on the A (right) side and start on the B (left). When the start is on A it doesn't close the circuit until voltage rises to ensure the aux battery doesn't put a load on a depleted start side. Once the voltage rises then the circuit closes. I couldn't tell from the pictures how you wired the switch. Let me know if I am on to something or confused I hope that makes sense.

Thanks Brizzle,

Glad I posted this, I may have overlooked at the posts maybe that's my issue I'll take a look today.

 

[savirc]

This is interesting to me as I am currently investigating what I would like to install and your setup is close to what I am planning. This comment is purely based on how I think things should work and not hands on experience. What you described didn't make sense to me unless you have the aux battery on the A (right) side and start on the B (left). When the start is on A it doesn't close the circuit until voltage rises to ensure the aux battery doesn't put a load on a depleted start side. Once the voltage rises then the circuit closes. I couldn't tell from the pictures how you wired the switch. Let me know if I am on to something or confused I hope that makes sense.

Ok...looking at the schematic again looks like its installed correctly. Right (A) post on Starter left post (B) on Auxiliary

It makes sense though that it would behave this way, its preserving the starter battery from being drained while running low on volts from auxiliary and drawing power at the same time. If the link existed during this state it would effectively start to draw from your starter battery and eventually draining it. The Isolator is checking for no draw before linking, then start link and charge. Once it reaches 12 volts it doesn't care if there is a draw. That's the behavior I have noticed on this set up and hardware.

Attached schematic.

 

[brizzle]

Ok...looking at the schematic again looks like its installed correctly. Right (A) post on Starter left post (B) on Auxiliary

It makes sense though that it would behave this way, its preserving the starter battery from being drained while running low on volts from auxiliary and drawing power at the same time. If the link existed during this state it would effectively start to draw from your starter battery and eventually draining it. The Isolator is checking for no draw before linking, then start link and charge. Once it reaches 12 volts it doesn't care if there is a draw. That's the behavior I have noticed on this set up and hardware.

Attached schematic.

View attachment 1375840

Cool, that does make sense. Thanks again for posting!

 

[savirc]

Goodies...

Front locker arrived...

This baby is stout

 

[savirc]

Also started looking at the rear e locker schematic for the slee CPU install. fortunately for me I have a master electrician helping...

She looked at me like you don't know what the hell you are doing do you?

 

[Yuman Desert Rat]

I LOVE this build thread!!! We have very similar MODS. I'm actually in the process of doing the busman fuse/relay box. By in the process, I mean it's on my to-do list. I did the Slee 2nd battery tray and ARB Compressor back in Sept. Just been procrastinating on the battery... I might just go with the Yellow top as well. I had one in my Jeep years ago and it served me well. the interstate battery is becoming an PITA to source... I just squeezed the old Diehard Platinum in there for the time being... I just need to find the time to clean up the wiring mess under my hood.... Subscribed!

The accessory switches in the overhead is by far the sexiest switch setup I've seen in a 100 series.... I just may copy that; if you don't mind?

 

[NorthernXS]

Also started looking at the rear e locker schematic for the slee CPU install. fortunately for me I have a master electrician helping...

She looked at me like you don't know what the hell you are doing do you?

View attachment 1376724

View attachment 1376725

Whats the benefit of going with the Slee CPU as opposed to going with just the plug and play harness?

 

[savirc]

Whats the benefit of going with the Slee CPU as opposed to going with just the plug and play harness?

If you use the stock harness you cannot lock in 4-HI. Only in 4-LOW limits your speed. Also, if you are retrofitting an 01 and up you would also need the CPU and all the connections including the one that goes to the transmission and the ECU.

The Slee is a plug and play no limiter simple install.

 

[NorthernXS]

If you use the stock harness you cannot lock in 4-HI. Only in 4-LOW limits your speed. Also, if you are retrofitting an 01 and up you would also need the CPU and all the connections including the one that goes to the transmission and the ECU.

The Slee is a plug and play no limiter simple install.

sorry i should have been more clear. When i did my swap i used the harness from Low Range Off Road.
Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)
I wasnt sure what the difference was between the Slee and this one. What is the little black box for?

 

[savirc]

sorry i should have been more clear. When i did my swap i used the harness from Low Range Off Road.
Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)
I wasnt sure what the difference was between the Slee and this one. What is the little black box for?

The slee cpu uses the limiter built inside the electric motor for on/off voltage cut off on the electric motor connected to the worm rod.

I've rebuilt my e-locker actuator and I've seen it work. When you give 12 volts to the locker the motor runs and runs until the it detects the switch (separate sensor) that the fork is all the way into the locker. This I assume is how your setup works. No relay no smarts.

The slee cpu runs independently and does not need input from the second fork sensor.

So basically you can run the slee without the fork sensor working. The set up you have keeps the electric motor if the fork sensor fails. Kind of like when you push your electric window button down but continue to push down on the switch even after its all the way down and watch your lights dim. The slee catches it before that happens.

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[NorthernXS]

The slee cpu has a limiter built in for on/off voltage cut off on the electric motor connected to the worm rod.

I've rebuilt my e-locker actuator and I've seen it work. When you give 12 volts to the locker the motor runs and runs until the it detects the switch (separate sensor) that the fork is all the way into the locker. This I assume is how your setup works. No relay no smarts.

The slee cpu runs independently and does not need input from the second fork sensor. It senses the the voltage draw on the motor and it "knows" when the worm gear has driven the fork all the way in based on the voltage/resistance readings.

So basically you can run the slee without the fork sensor working. The set up you have keeps the electric motor running for a few seconds after its actually hit the bottom until it senses the sensor, overworking the actuator motor a bit every time its turned on and off. Kind of like when you push your electric window button down but continue to push down on the switch even after its all the way down and watch your lights dim. The slee catches it before that happens.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Perfect, thank you!

 

[shanester]

If you use the stock harness you cannot lock in 4-HI. Only in 4-LOW limits your speed. Also, if you are retrofitting an 01 and up you would also need the CPU and all the connections including the one that goes to the transmission and the ECU.

The Slee is a plug and play no limiter simple install.

Would I need this for my 02' LC if I'm planning to run front and rear air lockers?

 

[savirc]

Would I need this for my 02' LC if I'm planning to run front and rear air lockers?

No only if you plan on using the stock toyota electronic locker and axle out of a 99 or 98 LC.

I have an electronic locker in the rear axle and will have an air locker in the front.

 

[shanester]

No only if you plan on using the stock toyota electronic locker and axle out of a 99 or 98 LC.

I have an electronic locker in the rear axle and will have an air locker in the front.

Whew, that's so good to hear. I'm way over my budget as is. I just got my front and rear TJM lockers in the mail. Such nice stuff. I also ordered the TJM on-board air compressor which is embarrassingly small and only powers the lockers.