Winter projects on your rig? (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Josie'sLandCruiser
- Start date
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MarcoPolo
Mud.. it's a life...
Great to hear from the far east..
Very nice truck Heliman
......that is one stout lookin bumper you got thier on that beast..
in fact the truck has a great looking strength to it with the roll bar also
Very nice truck Heliman
......that is one stout lookin bumper you got thier on that beast..
in fact the truck has a great looking strength to it with the roll bar also
Walk ouside look at it , then walk back in
Fabbed up a new bumper and threw a plow on to help move snow this winter. Now all the neighbors have clean driveways too 
I got the new rear fenderwells built. Framed em in then used clear 1/4" lexan so that the kids in the back could look down at the trail
I got the new rear fenderwells built. Framed em in then used clear 1/4" lexan so that the kids in the back could look down at the trail
I also got the rear seat mounted. Came out of a Samurai. This is a great seat for these rigs! 100% bolt-in, fold and tumble.
I mounted the powertank right behind it.
Next up...exo, removable fender flares and mudflaps
I mounted the powertank right behind it.
Next up...exo, removable fender flares and mudflaps
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Threads
- 127
- Messages
- 1,070
- Location
- Orcas Island in NW Washington State
- Website
- www.mtpickettwoodworking.com
Lucky... you got the rare tilt wheel. I have a passenger seat that's a perfect match if your'e interested.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Threads
- 127
- Messages
- 1,070
- Location
- Orcas Island in NW Washington State
- Website
- www.mtpickettwoodworking.com
oops, that was a response to spotcruisers 'project'. Didn't see there was another page...
Fabbed up a new bumper and threw a plow on to help move snow this winter. Now all the neighbors have clean driveways too
I got the new rear fenderwells built. Framed em in then used clear 1/4" lexan so that the kids in the back could look down at the trail
That sideways-squished rear body looks cool
I have a passenger seat that's a perfect match if your'e interested.
Thanks for the offer, Gary, but I have no need for a passenger seat. Passengers have to push.
MarcoPolo
Mud.. it's a life...
Hey Cool dad ; )
Really like what you did there for the kids
to look out at the trail...
No doubt that helpsto keep them occupied
, to a certain extent, while you navigate the way.
Great truck. How'd the single door come about?, or was it that way when you got it?
Zech 4.6
Really like what you did there for the kids
to look out at the trail...No doubt that helpsto keep them occupied
, to a certain extent, while you navigate the way.Great truck. How'd the single door come about?, or was it that way when you got it?
Zech 4.6
TRAILTOYZ
I got the new rear fenderwells built. Framed em in then used clear 1/4" lexan so that the kids in the back could look down at the trail
Hi Alan,
NO problem... Just pop me a message in your next trip. Just return
from pre Chinese New Year Gathering over the weekend with 11
other "Buaya Darat".... "Land Crocs" vehicles of different makes.
Offroad very short needing to do 20 foot wide & a 1 1/2 foot depth river crossing (sorry did NOT have pic of BJ40).
Pic was taken by a friend last year when driving the FORD Ranger. before hitting to another prestine river per image below......
sorry ..image a little small, difficulty extracting from FACEBOOK
Next project will be rear seats, inspired by Alex (a.ka. FJFool)
Rear BRAT SEATs.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/201040-brat-rear-seats.html
regards,
Bernard a.k.a HelimanBD.
NO problem... Just pop me a message in your next trip. Just return
from pre Chinese New Year Gathering over the weekend with 11
other "Buaya Darat".... "Land Crocs" vehicles of different makes.
Offroad very short needing to do 20 foot wide & a 1 1/2 foot depth river crossing (sorry did NOT have pic of BJ40).
Pic was taken by a friend last year when driving the FORD Ranger. before hitting to another prestine river per image below......
sorry ..image a little small, difficulty extracting from FACEBOOK
Next project will be rear seats, inspired by Alex (a.ka. FJFool)
Rear BRAT SEATs.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/201040-brat-rear-seats.html
regards,
Bernard a.k.a HelimanBD.
Hi All:
"Heliman," the truck looks great!
I'm sorry I was not able to come visit Malaysia when I was in S'pore last year.
Enjoy the warm weather - it is *cold* here right now!
Regards,
Alan
------------------------------------------------
MarcoPolo,
Thanks for the comments.
A little background on the bumper. It was custom design for timber
logging in Sabah & Sarawak and NOT sure if it is from Japan itself as
the material used is the same as the original bumpers. The truck originally was from East Malaysia (Bornea).
Was told by loggers they use at least 2 BJ40s to push the fallen tree
(length 80-100 foot and diameter probably 5 foot) up onto "sun tai
wong" translated from cantonese meaning "mountain king" trailers
or more known as "lori hantu" (NO roadtax/lights -non road worthy)
in Malaysia and Indonesia.
Some cases, the chasis JUST snap in the center while pushing the
oversize logs....
Have YET to joint the loggers to see these BJs at work...
regards,
HelimanBD.
Thanks for the comments.
A little background on the bumper. It was custom design for timber
logging in Sabah & Sarawak and NOT sure if it is from Japan itself as
the material used is the same as the original bumpers. The truck originally was from East Malaysia (Bornea).
Was told by loggers they use at least 2 BJ40s to push the fallen tree
(length 80-100 foot and diameter probably 5 foot) up onto "sun tai
wong" translated from cantonese meaning "mountain king" trailers
or more known as "lori hantu" (NO roadtax/lights -non road worthy)
in Malaysia and Indonesia.
Some cases, the chasis JUST snap in the center while pushing the
oversize logs....
Have YET to joint the loggers to see these BJs at work...
regards,
HelimanBD.
Very nice truck Heliman
......that is one stout lookin bumper you got thier on that beast..
in fact the truck has a great looking strength to it with the roll bar also
hfs lift
doin and HFS 4 inch lift new bfgs greasable shackles and por-15 in the cab and trying to decide on a paint red or off white polyurethane
doin and HFS 4 inch lift new bfgs greasable shackles and por-15 in the cab and trying to decide on a paint red or off white polyurethane
mine went from this:
to this:
Then to this:
then something like this:
then today it looks like this... build in the soft top build sig line...
to this:
Then to this:
then something like this:
then today it looks like this... build in the soft top build sig line...
I think I just change my mind to much.
Plans are:
350 tbi
465
atlas 5 or 6 two speed
60 front
14 bolt linked...
flat bed and a whole lotta tube.
we'll see what ends up happening.
Plans are:
350 tbi
465
atlas 5 or 6 two speed
60 front
14 bolt linked...
flat bed and a whole lotta tube.
we'll see what ends up happening.Looks good Mike!
Well, I dropped off my hardtop to be worked on at a vocational tech school. While it is away I have been working on shaping up the 40. This truck is not perfect. Has some rot issues with the rear tub in places but overall it is pretty good and perfect for me cause’ I plan and have been using it to do work and some wheeling fun. Here are a few of the things I did in the last few months.
1. Pulled out all the seats, roll cage, center console, glove box, seat brackets, fuel tank brackets, mirrors, emblems etc. and re painted these. Some spots of rust I treated with permatex in a spray can from Napa. Then used primer and epoxy paint.
2. Removed the front doors and stripped them down. Had to open up some of the weep holes at the bottom edge and cleaned a bunch or debris out of the door cavities. Included in there were some wasp nest in both doors. I reinstalled with new inner door felt runners and all new window channels. Also cut holes and prepped to install new 4” speakers. I scraped the windows with straight razors to clean the 30yrs of crap clinging there. Used some brass door hinge bushings and now no more rattles!
3. Another thing I repaired in the door was a spring had come off and was found in the door bottom. I used forceps to reinstall the spring & repaired the lock mechanism. All summer it was inoperable and you had to hold it shut, then lock it for it to stay shut. Slamming did nothing. After trying for an hour to hook up the very small spring, (using all manner of small needle nose), I took a break for dinner and pondered the dilemma. I remembered my locking forceps. After dinner I locked the forceps onto one end of the spring and then used the forceps to attach the other end…5minutes of effort and had it done.
4. With all of the seats and such out. I applied 3 or so coats of spray on bed liner all over the bed and into the floors in the front. I masked off the existing factory mat, and lined all around on the floors where there was no insulation material. I installed new carpets from SOR and a floor liner/reflector mat from CCOT. This all should help with the sound and temperature control.
5. I took some time to modify the transfer to get 2wd low. I have a perfect application for this type of gear at my place.
6. I replicated a seal for the hardtop to sit on. I used a garage door seal and cut it up to fit. Should work good once it is sandwiched.
7. Re painted front and rear bumpers with epoxy. Permatex and primer first to control the surface rust spots.
8. I installed tubes to extend the diff breathers & a nice leather steering wheel cover. Also built some boxes to house 6x9’s for the rear.
9. Set up a nice crate to hold all my recovery stuff, jack, tools etc. Had to customize it to fit in the back.
Other future plans include building a shelf up over the visors to house the stereo. Also need a headliner installed.
Right now she runs decent, compared to some jelopys I have seen. But I do have a manifold vacuum leak that is holding me back from tuning it 100%. I plan to pull of the manifolds once I have the hardtop back on and the body repainted.
1. Pulled out all the seats, roll cage, center console, glove box, seat brackets, fuel tank brackets, mirrors, emblems etc. and re painted these. Some spots of rust I treated with permatex in a spray can from Napa. Then used primer and epoxy paint.
2. Removed the front doors and stripped them down. Had to open up some of the weep holes at the bottom edge and cleaned a bunch or debris out of the door cavities. Included in there were some wasp nest in both doors. I reinstalled with new inner door felt runners and all new window channels. Also cut holes and prepped to install new 4” speakers. I scraped the windows with straight razors to clean the 30yrs of crap clinging there. Used some brass door hinge bushings and now no more rattles!
3. Another thing I repaired in the door was a spring had come off and was found in the door bottom. I used forceps to reinstall the spring & repaired the lock mechanism. All summer it was inoperable and you had to hold it shut, then lock it for it to stay shut. Slamming did nothing. After trying for an hour to hook up the very small spring, (using all manner of small needle nose), I took a break for dinner and pondered the dilemma. I remembered my locking forceps. After dinner I locked the forceps onto one end of the spring and then used the forceps to attach the other end…5minutes of effort and had it done.
4. With all of the seats and such out. I applied 3 or so coats of spray on bed liner all over the bed and into the floors in the front. I masked off the existing factory mat, and lined all around on the floors where there was no insulation material. I installed new carpets from SOR and a floor liner/reflector mat from CCOT. This all should help with the sound and temperature control.
5. I took some time to modify the transfer to get 2wd low. I have a perfect application for this type of gear at my place.
6. I replicated a seal for the hardtop to sit on. I used a garage door seal and cut it up to fit. Should work good once it is sandwiched.
7. Re painted front and rear bumpers with epoxy. Permatex and primer first to control the surface rust spots.
8. I installed tubes to extend the diff breathers & a nice leather steering wheel cover. Also built some boxes to house 6x9’s for the rear.
9. Set up a nice crate to hold all my recovery stuff, jack, tools etc. Had to customize it to fit in the back.
Other future plans include building a shelf up over the visors to house the stereo. Also need a headliner installed.
Right now she runs decent, compared to some jelopys I have seen. But I do have a manifold vacuum leak that is holding me back from tuning it 100%. I plan to pull of the manifolds once I have the hardtop back on and the body repainted.
hmmm...my plans change weekly....but right now-
plans for the 40 are to remove the nv4500 for an auto install-nv4500 is going into the lv behind a 6.0 vortec. but i still have all the resto work to do on the lv. mostly bodywork and paint. i still have to finish my m416 which consists of mounting my new arb rtt that's just sitting in my garage, painting the trailer, plumbing the water tank to the kitchen that i have not built yet and then install some lights. if i haven't already started enough projects, i also have 67 mustang my dad and i are restoring. it's hard to choose what to do first........it's such a tough life. i think the m416 will come first since i have a camping trip next week-then the lv and the mustang gets the shaft.
plans for the 40 are to remove the nv4500 for an auto install-nv4500 is going into the lv behind a 6.0 vortec. but i still have all the resto work to do on the lv. mostly bodywork and paint. i still have to finish my m416 which consists of mounting my new arb rtt that's just sitting in my garage, painting the trailer, plumbing the water tank to the kitchen that i have not built yet and then install some lights. if i haven't already started enough projects, i also have 67 mustang my dad and i are restoring. it's hard to choose what to do first........it's such a tough life. i think the m416 will come first since i have a camping trip next week-then the lv and the mustang gets the shaft.
