it almost feels like the clutch is slipping
When a clutch slips it usually happens in the higher gears when the most torque is applied. The engine revs higher but the car doesn’t go any faster.
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it almost feels like the clutch is slipping
Yeah I know it’s not the clutch but it just reminds me of that feeling then after 2000 rpm it accelerates. Very weird. Like I said I will check the plugs, check timing again, do a lean drop again just to make sure those I know are dialed. I feel like I’m beating a dead horse. Maybe a desmog and a sniper kit will solve my issuesWhen a clutch slips it usually happens in the higher gears when the most torque is applied. The engine revs higher but the car doesn’t go any faster.
I did that mod awhile ago.Read post #12 in this thread
Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-cut-off-help-w-pictures.300513/
He did this as a permanent fix, you can use some spare wire and temporarily test this instead, your issues sounds awfully similar to this.
I guess I can still test it. Unplug the the connector and run a jump from the ground of the carb to battery ground then where the positive from the solinoid to battery positive and see if it clicks?Read post #12 in this thread
Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-cut-off-help-w-pictures.300513/
He did this as a permanent fix, you can use some spare wire and temporarily test this instead, your issues sounds awfully similar to this.
Would that affect the idle? It idles great. But under load and my vacuum is at 16 ish. If my valves are loose would that cause a vacuum leak?this page from the 2f emissions FSM, and since you mentioned some weird fuel squirt from the venturi, it could be a bad accelerator pump.
View attachment 3013804
Sure, but you idle good, so to test thoroughly you need to safely supply it with 12v and ground and drive it….I doubt that’s the issue now that I know you have it grounded, the positive comes from the ignition switch.I guess I can still test it. Unplug the the connector and run a jump from the ground of the carb to battery ground then where the positive from the solinoid to battery positive and see if it clicks?
the question I have about the valve adjustment. Put the pointer on the flywheel to the line (TDC). if its on the compression stroke the rotor of the distributor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire at the distributor? Adjust 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then rotate the engine 360 Degrees stop at the TDC line again. Where should my rotor be pointing then so I know I am on the exhaust stroke? Then adjust 4,6,8,10,11,12. and how do I turn the motor over manually by the fly wheel? unhook the Coil so it doesn't fire.Sure, but you idle good, so to test thoroughly you need to safely supply it with 12v and ground and drive it….I doubt that’s the issue now that I know you have it grounded, the positive comes from the ignition switch.
Valves wouldn’t cause a “leak” but if you don’t know when they were done last I’d definitely do a quick run on them, do it hot. They can make a world of difference if they are severely neglected.
Can you swap out a Accelerator pump on car?this page from the 2f emissions FSM, and since you mentioned some weird fuel squirt from the venturi, it could be a bad accelerator pump.
View attachment 3013804
the question I have about the valve adjustment. Put the pointer on the flywheel to the line (TDC). if its on the compression stroke the rotor of the distributor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire at the distributor? Adjust 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then rotate the engine 360 Degrees stop at the TDC line again. Where should my rotor be pointing then so I know I am on the exhaust stroke? Then adjust 4,6,8,10,11,12. and how do I turn the motor over manually by the fly wheel? unhook the Coil so it doesn't fire.
Your accel pump is what makes the nice stream from the side, the venturies operate off of the air drawing through, accel pump compensates for your throttle inputs.Can you swap out a Accelerator pump on car?
Good diagram. So I don’t ever check the rotor, I typically put it on TDC line, then find which valves are loose or tight and decipher which stroke I’m on, make sense? This isn’t fool proof but you never adjust valves that are fully compressed.
That's the plastic? piece in the Dizzy?Without the discussed centrifugal advance repair, your most likely are getting too much advance which could be causing the pinging.
yes a bushing around the stop pin, but also lighter springs or just send it off to Jim C for a proper recurve. Is your EGR working? you can test it by pulling vacuum on the top vacuum line to the EGR valve while at idle. It should kill the truck or almost stall if the valve is opening. If it doesn't open at all your EGR is disabled and you need to recurve your dizzy.That's the plastic? piece in the Dizzy?